6AL-4V Titanium Hardware

Hello, I'll try to answer your questions to my best ability. 1. The cavity ranges between 0.3mm and 1.0mm, depending on what I'm inlaying. I can do deep cavity because I have that option on an axe, but if engraving on an object that is not thick, the cavity will probably be around 0.25mm. 2. The copper pieces I use range from 0.2mm to 1.2mm, again depending what I'm inlaying. 3. I use several different ones. 120Deg, 110Deg, 90Deg Sometimes I have to improvise and make unique gravers depending on what kind of metal is engraved. Hope this helps. Good luck!

@@ASkobiDesigns Thank you for the information and your promptness.

the anchors at the bottom of the cavity, which burin do you use?

@@ASkobiDesigns see my work at @bragagnolifacascustom

I use different kinds, depending on the type of the inlay. If the inlay is large size then something like a 120Deg graver. When inlaying a wire, then a flat graver is used.

Yep, it still works just fine.

Yep, not cheap

No I’m not. In Pacific NW.

Using a remote control that came with Leica, I press the button that has a red dot and a black square. That starts recording. To stop it, I press the same button and then press the Pause button. It on the screen it tells me that it saved the video. It saves the video to the SD card.

Thank you!

Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you!

It definitely makes it stand out and adds another level of beauty.

Microscope takes the engraving to a higher level, which is hard to achieve with just eye sight.

Thank you! 😊

Thank you for sharing with your experience. Will try to incorporate some of these in my next engraving.

Please send me an email. [email protected]

Thank you so much! I don't have a facebook account for this work that I do.

Thank you!

I didn’t see much of a difference between this and metal paint. Top surfaces if scratched with metal object will leaved marks. Cavity areas are holding very well.

Always

@@ASkobiDesigns I'm still trying to inlay with copper wire with wide media but it always fails, maybe the copper is a little hard.

Try annealing the copper. There are many videos on youtube as to how to anneal the copper.

Many people get these as collections.

For letters you have not choice but use wires. For larger patterns I find it easier to cut out the patters. But if I don’t have large pieces of metal to cut pattern from, then I use wires. I do t use any glue, just I create burrs to hammer in the metal or wires.

@@ASkobiDesigns I just tried it on coin. for the /Border line it works but for the media it's a little wide, I failed to use a wire

Yes they are!

Thank you. I have not.

If you are asking about sharpening gravers - I use stones with of a different grid. For the smoothest stone you can spray the Diamond mixture.

It's a blue permanent market. Part of marking the area to be inlayed.

@@ASkobiDesigns thank You

**marker

@@ASkobiDesigns Hi, what is the reason? Thank you

Highlighted area of the inlay I needed to cut. I place a scotch tape and this ink is transferred to a tape. Then I place the tape on a copper piece that I want to cut out an inlay from and cut it. It’s just a transfer method I use.

Glad you liked it, hopefully it was informative..

For sure! I am a gun engraver and I run a Lindsay Classic handpiece- he is as good of a machinist as an engraver and that’s saying something! I currently use a GRS ball vice with the bearing locked and spin a shimpo banding wheel. The ball vice gets moved around but the shimpo turntable stays centered under my Leica scope. It’s a pretty standard mid priced setup and I’d like to have slightly more stability, weight, inertia, and smoothness. I think this setup might be better for mid sized items though? Or maybe for a 6 or 8 inch revolver it’d work fine? I am an amateur machinist and mechanic and was considering building a larger more solid turntable from an automotive spindle with opposed timken bearings like a wheel hub.

Thank you.

Black metal paint.

I stop the printer before it goes to the dryer part by opening the front printer cover. This mimics a paper jam and printer stops the paper feed.

Thank you so much for your reply. I can’t wait to try this and will report back with my results. Again, thank you very much.

It depends on a class. Beginning classes are usually little bit less but still expensive . I think their training center website has class description and cost. It starts around $1200 and goes up from there.

Thank you so much!

Thank you so much. Yes, patience is a big factor in these kind of projects.

Oh wow! Thank you! I don't think of me achieving the quality that I'm looking for yet. But I'm trying. Thank you for your comments, they are definitely very encouraging.

Yes, sometimes need to try couple attempts and I try to heat up in dark room to see the color of the metal.

​@@ASkobiDesignsi have tried to make it. with a 90° flat end. still when I do a punch on the edge of the thicker part untouched by the punch. how many degrees on the inside of the Vidio? I made a punch from carbide. is it a problem or is it more difficult because it's hard? like the plan I will use it for the coin hobo

Not sure I understand your question. What is your question?

I do the outline with 120 and then flat graver to cut the channel out.

I do it both ways. There cases when I stipple background only and there are cases when I remove background and then stipple it. When you remove background it gives a more of a 3D look of the engraving.

Yeh, engraving on copper can be little bit tricky. Inlaying copper also little bit challenging. But it’s doable.

@@ASkobiDesigns Kinda feels like lathing, where you need a different tool for different metals.

Oh absolutely, and not just one! I have about 20 different gravers and it’s going up!

@@ASkobiDesigns Ever heard of Uri Tuchman? He is going through brass like its frozen friggin butter!!

Oh yes, I watch him - he is a funny guy, but very creative.

It’s a dammar varnish.

Yes, correct

Yes, it is steady on acrobat stand, although when you are zoomed in to a high degree (alot more than A60), then any slight touch of any equipment produces fairly large jerks. You will learn how to work with the system to avoid these jerks. But if you are zoom same level as A60 - then the steadiness is pretty much the same. I can't tell for sure if it's better, but definitely it's comfortable and has a higher zoom to do bulino engraving. I also have heard that it's better if you are working with jewelry, better depth of view.

Either dot style engraving or macro lines can be used.

I’ve seen incredible work done by dots and lines.

Not sure if it's possible to describe in writing, but will try. First I cut with 120 degree engraver. Once I have a rough channel line, then I use tiny flat graver and cut out the bottom. Then I use onglette graver and do undercuts on both left and right sides - and that's the channel.

Thank you!

Thank you so much!

To put things in perspective, using a 120 degree graver to do scrolls, the depths is between 0.1mm-0.25mm. On this axe the deep engraved pockets were between 1.0mm-2.25mm. Please explain your second question further, what do you mean by 'hooks'?

@@ASkobiDesigns How do you make the copper stick to the steel, I tried to do the same but the copper doesn't stick!

Cut out a channel. Do the under cut around the perimeter of the channel. Using 120 or 116 graver make burrs in the channel in different directions. Finally pound in the inlay.

Thanks for liking