If you are still able to print these could I please buy some from you? Thanks
@mauriciopinorojo4 күн бұрын
my headphones just broke 1 week later this video was posted, i'm glad to see that it can be repaired, thank you!
@TrinomCZ5 күн бұрын
Hi AMP, the correct P/N should be BA00AS, not BA08CC. It will work, but it isn't correct. You can clearly see even in your video, that the two voltage reference resistors just next to the stabilisator are present even on your PCB.
@LeitzPolska-up2xi6 күн бұрын
Stock motherboard is garbage
@jameslawes8 күн бұрын
Any chance you have the firmware and the DWIN files to match? Also quick tip you can rotate the connectors on the board so you don’t have to swap the bltouch wires around for the Zstop
@swaize886612 күн бұрын
What's the size of the speakers? Need to buy new ones and don't know the size.
@amp943812 күн бұрын
17cm link in description
@swaize886611 күн бұрын
@@amp9438 so both speakers on the door and on the rear are the same size?
@michaelspruell786414 күн бұрын
Where. And how much did the parts cost?
@amp943813 күн бұрын
£60 eBay
@ke4rcf21 күн бұрын
I just did this upgrade. Everything is working well except it seems that I have an issue where the z step will step up and not step down. Did you have to increase the current on the z axis for the stepper motors?
@amp943816 күн бұрын
Does it work with only one of the steppers connected? I didn't have any issues like this. Maybe a wiring issue?
@dspirto28 күн бұрын
Excuse me, do you know how to synchronize the control with the central box?
@amp943827 күн бұрын
No idea sorry. Don't recall having to do this. Is it not in the instructions provided?
@13osco29 күн бұрын
found your aproach very usefull for a toyota wiper linkage! thanks!
@mrhrholdenАй бұрын
Hi Mate any chance you can attach a link to the firmware.BIN file for the 4.2.7 Board please I have the firmware for the screen all done and working I have tried to build the firmware in platformio but I keep getting errors starting to become very frustrating. I have tried the firmware from the link to thingiverse it doesnt work either. I have made sure my SD Card works to upload the firmware formatted to fat 32 and 4039 as it uploads the firmware to the screen fine. if you could share a link to the *.bin file that would be great Cheers
@amp943827 күн бұрын
The firmware link is here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:6076947/files. Did you download the file, rename it to .zip (remove .thing extension), extract the files and copy the .bin file onto clean SD card at the root? Also could try renaming to something like firmware.bin As this is an old video I believe the version of Marlin I used is no longer on their website so my configuration files won't work and need updating. I plan on upgrading my one so will upload these when I can.
@dannyahir9960Ай бұрын
Your vidoe helped me in the first 40 seconds I hadn't checked to see if the light stays on inside! Mine didn't? I had repaced the fuse and still not my double gang socket for soem reason the right side burnt out! Plugged it into the left and hey presto! Was about to strip the machine apart! 😅
@Thebeardedviking865Ай бұрын
So I followed this completely and am having a couple issues. The screen firmware went through but my screen just stays showing the boot logo of marlin. My bl touch probe extends twice and stays red. Any help on what I may be missing would be great. I also noticed the board isn’t taking the new firmware.
@amp943827 күн бұрын
Sounds like the firmware hasn't uploaded onto the main board. Did you add the .bin to the root of the sd card with no other files? Also is it correctly formatted to fat32? Also not sure if the sd card size makes a difference? I usually just use an 8gb one. Once you insert the card and power on the printer it should have a small delay starting as it updates the firmware. You could also try renaming the file to something like firmware.bin
@george_thebeanАй бұрын
Hi, did this permanently fix this issue? Did the board blow up again after you fixed it? Thanks
@amp9438Ай бұрын
Yes it fixed it
@george_thebeanАй бұрын
@@amp9438 nice. I'm in the process of fixing mine, and from a few tests it seems the same components failed on my unit (also left rear speaker!). Thanks for posting the video
@erblemoofАй бұрын
Great video! I’ll be honest I was hoping to see the rotating cluster dimmer dial worked on as well. I’ve had three switches over the years and dials on all three acted differently. Only worked “okay” whereas the others either barely made a change, or would start bright, get slightly dimmer, then get bright again
@amp9438Ай бұрын
They are easy to open up and clean. I did mine at the same time but didn't film it
@hilexxxАй бұрын
This video is awesome! I was looking at my 5 Plus yesterday and i was wondering why it's using a different motherboard and firmware when it's basically same hardware setup as Ender3++ I currently have an highly modified and not anymore Ender3 Pro and an Ender3 V2, i run on both Mriscoc firmware which i just love what it does to your machine. It gives you unbelievable many more options and settings... So now i was looking at my Ender5 plus and i wanted the same thing but i wanted to make sure i can run 4.2.7 motherboard on it. So you showed me that YES it works great 👍 But Mriscoc works only with 24 bit color screen that Ender3 V2 has and to be honest im not a big fan of touch screen either so i think this is a great option for this upgrade. Thank you very much for this great video 😎👍
@bmp0149Ай бұрын
Would it be possible to drill a small hole in the housing, on the bearing centreline, through which you could add a drop of oil ?
@amp9438Ай бұрын
Possibly if you can drill precisely and reseal it
@bmp0149Ай бұрын
@@amp9438 well can was acting up so nothing to loose. I ended up taking apart and damaging wires (sound familiar ?) but got it back together and working. There was next to no wear so just cleaned it up, added tiny amount of grease. Plus added a small hole through which we can add oil. We’ll see how it works out.
@Ashleycb97Ай бұрын
hey bud what is the max depth of the rear speaker hole ?
@Mission_MeАй бұрын
Huge thank you🎉😊
@Duros13942 ай бұрын
Hang on wheres the steps on how you put these files into the printer?
@Mr-K-Ай бұрын
I was wondering the same thing at first, If you download creality slicer or an alternative, you can upload them directly to your printer through the cable.
@amp9438Ай бұрын
You copy the firnware onto the SD card, insert into printer and power on. Same for all these 32bit printers with Marlin
@Duros1394Ай бұрын
@@amp9438 Unfortunately after hours I am still unable to compile a bin file. I have tried using the one you supplied. Found out that you had to rename it as "firmware" with a couple of numbers infront of it however all i am currently getting is the marlin logo for however long with the hotbed just getting hot. Compiling the bin file shows that the configurations are out of date and the marlin archives do not have the 2.1.2.1 files available.
@amp943827 күн бұрын
As this is an old video I believe the version of Marlin I used is no longer on their website so my configuration files won't work and need updating. I plan on upgrading my one so will upload the new version when I can.
@Duros13942 ай бұрын
I have a massive issue with the 10 pin cable. Are you not able to just use the existing cable? I understand the clip on it is backwards but could you not cut a small square in the plastic and make it connect the original way round?
@Duros13942 ай бұрын
Ok I seemed to have done this I filed down the plastic nub on the 10 pin header and just inserted it backwards. Saved the crimping
@jameslawes6 күн бұрын
@@Duros1394did this work ok?
@ScottRosa20082 ай бұрын
Thanks for this video. I have had problems with my heating working intermittently for the last few months. It will work fine for a few days or maybe a week and then the boiler won’t fire when the call for heat is made. If I turn it all off for a couple of days and then start again it will work again for a while. I assumed it was the boiler at fault nd maybe the PCB but then I noticed the hot water on its own works fine, boiler fires no problem and it works as it should. It only seems to be when CH only is selected. I can hear the boiler clicking on and off trying to start so I think it communicates with the room stat, goes to start and then the mid position actuator doesn’t move as it should. Does this sound the likely issue to you because if it was the brass valve then the hot water wouldn’t work either? Thanks.
@ivail72062 ай бұрын
Hi, I have HW-K950 as well, recently my right satellite and subwoofer unable to link to main soundbar, is it repairable?
@TonyBecks19692 ай бұрын
4:14 Which button?
@MrAsphyxious2 ай бұрын
I also have a ender 5+, glad i found this. I also had the cr touch issue with the wires being crossed. But I have 2 additional fans it looks like? Black and red wires one running to the case fan and the other is a fan by the extruder. But i still have the yellow/blue wire fan. Any chance you can shed some light on how to deal with this? Can i make a 2 to 1 connection for a fan port? Edit: i missed you plugged it into the board power bar thing But which fan is stripped and put into the board by the power connections? Does it make sense to put the case fan into the power block and the extra one connected to the print head into the board? Editx2: you do mention its the fan for the hot end. So you dont want that variable? There is an extra spot on the board that can either be the case fan or that fan.
@JESTER19813 ай бұрын
Excellent Video!, mine have broken, but unfortunately dont have a 3d printer are the little parts available to buy? Thanks.
@kamhalla3 ай бұрын
Great vid, albeit niche to us Beko tumble dryer owners! Has your dryer ever stop randomly (can be 2 seconds or 20 minutes into the cycle - is totally random)? I have the same Beko DCU8230 and it has had this random stoppage behaviour since new many years ago. Googling about seems to suggest that it is a PCB issue. Just wondering if you have any insight or similar experience.
@amp94383 ай бұрын
I remember there was a safety recall regarding the PCB with a certain batch of this dryer, not sure if its related to your issues. Either way would be hard to diagnose if random
@orbita13 ай бұрын
I'm going mad - I am trying to use this software for the first time in years in windows, updated everything, device shows in device manager as a com port, but no com ports (even my other devices) show in the eb software. Been trying to run as admin but no dice.
@amp94383 ай бұрын
I think it needs to be setup as COM1 - 4 for the software to pick it up. You could try reassigning the port number in device manager. You might also want to try running the software in compatabilty mode like Win 7 etc
@ArneJohansen-dl8dr3 ай бұрын
The same speaker just died in my system, without this video I would not probably get anywhere, so this video is gold for me now when trying to repair. But I must say that Samsung should get a big middle finger up for the freaking glue stuff. I have to get some more isoprop. tomorrow so I can get the last 2 parts open and get to the electronic components. I'm not great with electronic so I may just order double of everything you mention here, and call on some friends I know is skilled repairing electric stuff :)
@ltraltier60093 ай бұрын
I fucking hated this piece of shit printer that ALWAYS had some bullshit going wrong with it. I don't regret replacing it with a CR-10. These printable upgrades sure sound nice. Would be great if i could have actually printed anything with the damn thing after a year.
@leehyson98313 ай бұрын
Thank you. Watching your video has saved me a lot of money and time. I bought a new motor for 15quid and it was fixed. Happy days. Thank you :))))
@apertamos3 ай бұрын
Thank You. It works 100% Testing on my honda jazz and now the radio tuned good.
@shinygoldcar3 ай бұрын
Thanks for this! I was looking for a video on how the Drayton MA1 works, but this gives me enough info for what I need. I am finding that the actuator moves as expected when it is removed from the valve, but for some reason does not seem to be strong enough to turn the valve when attached. It could be the valve has become too stiff or the motor is no longer strong enough who knows. I have manually set the valve in the hot water only position, which should be good until winter comes again
@missakhaladjian4 ай бұрын
Why is the signal wires come in pairs?
@RB-ej8wk4 ай бұрын
Hey I know this is unrelated but after a battery change in my 2006 jazz the speakers started to sound bad. Lower frequencies sound muffled and the sound quality is noticably worse. I heard changing the gains could help but I have know idea how to do that in the jazz and couldn't find anything about it. If you could help or have any tips I would appreciate it a lot!
@brucemclaren-4 ай бұрын
didn't honda fits come with central locking?
@amp94384 ай бұрын
In the UK I think the remote central locking was optional
@crisoxley52024 ай бұрын
Always good to see more Jazz videos 👍
@Riley-sb8wf4 ай бұрын
💥 *PromoSM*
@ivanmahmud55824 ай бұрын
Will you also do the front speaker brakets?
@amp94384 ай бұрын
No plans to do the front speakers unless I need to replace them
@JGV_IX4 ай бұрын
This is incredible! Struggling to get everything working on my 8bit board and wanted the silent drivers so bad! Just ordered the v4.2.7 and I can’t wait to follow your tutorial and get it up and running! Thank you so very much for this video!! God bless and warm regards from sunny South Africa 🇿🇦
@07723800124 ай бұрын
mine has a broken circuit..can i get new charging circuit?
@drelmoh4 ай бұрын
Amazing video. Thank you so much for explaining. One question: I accidentally flashed the firmware for the ender 3 instead of the ender 5 pro somehow. Is there a faster way to re-flash the firmware for the Ender 5 Pro?
@amp94384 ай бұрын
For the firmware itself you can just download and use the versions on Creality website but they are out of date. To install for 8bit boards you need the adapter but I think you can update the bootloader to allow it to flash from the SD card but haven't tried it. For 32bits it's a lot easier and you can flash from the SD card.
@vsvs76354 ай бұрын
worked few years, now ko
@alexp89464 ай бұрын
Hi that’s interesting as mine stopped working 2 days ago. The base unit is connected to WiFi but the app is no longer able to pair to the device.
@vsvs76354 ай бұрын
@@alexp8946 the same to me.... adding impossible and connection to server seems not available. pdf difficult to be found and targa page with manual = 404. i styled a sun powered station for external unit worked for 1 year without battery change
@amp94384 ай бұрын
Yes I suspect the server which manages the connections has gone down. Had this before so hopefully comes back 🤞
@vsvs76354 ай бұрын
it s the same to me.... i prepared a solar powered battery for it worked welll 12 months... now fail
@vsvs76354 ай бұрын
server was restored. i recommend the reinstaling if not working
@user-gm3re3lk5p4 ай бұрын
gel battery. How can I make electrolyte?
@gobinathmech80315 ай бұрын
Excellent demo
@ampersand85355 ай бұрын
Please help me! Your *.bin is working fine, but I changed the carriage and the hotend moved 20mm to the left. So it became necessary to make my own *.bin To start with, I downloaded Marlin 2.1.2.1 and your configuration files from Thingeverse (Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h) I changed the name of the processor to STM32F103RE_creality and tried to compile the *.bin but I get errors in the terminal. What am I doing wrong? Help me please.
@TheRwdyAudi5 ай бұрын
I have this same printer. I haven't yet upgrade the drive gear. What kinda difference might I have to look forward to?
@amp94385 ай бұрын
Hi. You mean direct drive extruder? Not something I've tried yet
@charles_15235 ай бұрын
Youre a freaking angel, like seriously, thank you so much for the firmware.
@sohailqamar20675 ай бұрын
Much appreciate for sharing the videos, great help to understand the problem, Actually by turning on hot water, it was triggering the heating of radiators, But by watching your videos i understood that what was the actual problem. Thank you so much.
@HelminthCombos5 ай бұрын
mine just shatter to pieces and i lost all the parts to the latch is is possible to get the other bits in 3d sketch?