Jumping beans..thats funny. Was a store across the street from school when a kid, one of the items they sold to steal our lunch money-good times :) On the port original intent was to increase flow while restricting enough to not suck belt into cover. Its close. But as noted that was a fail even with partial opening. (About 4:30). Now that cover is spaced out it could be fully opened. (I'd caution folks to open up port incrementally, enough vacuum will suck belt into cover grinding port boss off). I've since added a tee that adds suction to both the belt & disk ports. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gqmKqbRox5OtZ3U.html This machine fell and hit the ground (totaled). Replacement machine, (yes cheaper than fixing) transferred mods shown, last thing done on it, belt port was fully opened (not shown) for higher flow, still enough on the disk port. Also hinged the belt cover making belt changes simpler, faster, getting rid of a lot of the jumping beans:) Though 50% of the time still put belt on backwards... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rNKbqM99l8iqk2g.html. Slotting the fence mount is a good idea, my hesitation was as metal so soft it might yield, pretty weak. Could weld thickner face plate on it or a larger washer. Enjoy!

@@-AnEv942, "Always room for improvement." That's the way God made us and we always try to follow His example.

Thanks, its fun (now). Still needs some tuning but considering how flip floppy the AX24 was out of the box so far happy. Its able to crawl this little dry stream, I had tried when new out of box, was on its side or top more than rolling. Didnt last 10 minuets before I gave up & tore it down. Always wanted an old Willys truck- this is as close I'll ever get :)

Thanks-

Thanks, rather addicting, not all that challenging but fun. I mentioned if I took out a wall I could approach the scale you folks have done, (talk about awesome) Got a resounding NO. :) So will modify as we go along.

ya its fun playing with the sticks, simple and inexpensive. Can make-well what ever you can dream up. There's a video here somewhere guy built an entire course out of em. THATs the secret- have fun.

Thanks!

We keep trying thanks...

Thanks-was fun building but still doesn't really work as far as crawling.

Ha, well it will sew pretty thick material IF you can get the material under foot. While this mod doesn't alter what machine can punch thru, it does allow easily getting material under foot. Possibly limiting foot height is an attempt to limit to what machine can handle? Who knows. For me its not thickness but combined density that stops machine. I can sew double webbing over a few layers of 600d poly but couldn't get it under foot. Hopefully your successful, good luck.

@@-AnEv942 well I will try this hack because its very disappointing for sure, I’m glad you replied it gives me hope! I had that jacket material under the foot when it kept slipping and the needle didn’t move, so I have a lot to figure out on this machine. Thanks again!

Trial & error- on the ends mostly used a small mini V file to make small Vs (to look like old wood splitting). Some are cut using utility knife.. Random holes drilled then feather out to look like knots fallen out. The Popsicle sticks pretty soft, just and press dragging to create split lines. 1:10. Lately I've bee using an old wood rasp, laid flat pressing and draging to cut weathered grain lines, distressing. Did sand edges with coarse paper getting rid of square corners and uniform width. Wire brush to roughen. Highlight split ends and random surface 'splits' before painting with a roller ball ink pen. Painting I used Rustoleum semi gloss (though dark grey primer would work) anodized bronze. 2:42 Barley pressing nozzle to get spray paint to spit, then dust from distance. Dremel likely work, hadn't tried. Using dremel hard part making splits not looking like slots? but I'm thinking cut off wheel. To my eye it was trying to make each plank different, not repeating patterns. Good luck.

Short answer, no, mine doesn't hit. It doesn't really 'hit' but if presser foot manually lifted and machine rotated so that needle travels down it does contact. However it doesn't stop downward travel of needle. I would not try to sew like that (presser foot lifted) and if needle not all the way up defeats purpose of higher foot lift. Which is only to allow putting thicker material under foot. Once foot released there is no contact. If, which is only scenario i can imagine, you placed materiel that was so thick presser foot didn't compress or held foot at maximum height, then you would have problem. I can slip a piece of paper between foot and needle bar, tight but can pull out. I suppose you cold use that, needle in down position as maximum presser foot lift height.

Thanks. I'd actually seen your video earlier when gathering ideas...Seems to be increasingly further out, keeps growing :), but looking forward to when we can start adding details to our layout. Ya- working on it has become almost as much fun as driving it, kind of surprised me.

@@-AnEv942 yeah, i had so much fun doing the painting and adding the scenery to the course. at first i was just going to stick stuff here and there and then once i seen it taking shape and i said to myself, wow, this actually looks ok! lol and i am not a very talented person.

This is great. I’m building my indoor course too. I like seeing other guys ideas. I definitely like making multiple paths through the same course. I’ve built mine modular on 2’x4’ plywood. I have five built so far and they can interchange with each other making even more climbing options. Mine is made with all flat cardboard so far. It looks like large rock formations with multiple levels. I plan to add smaller rock details then cover the entire thing with plaster Paris sheets. Then paint. It can sit on the floor or folding tables when not using it I hang them on the ceiling. Thanks for the video I like it.

@@Cad1900 yeah, they are so much fun to build. not sure if you checked mine out also. i put up a few videos the last few days. check it out when you get a chance

Thanks!

I used a set from MotionRC.com FMS 1/18 Scale Crawler Transmission Gear Box & Axle Set SKU: FMSC2001 currently out of stock though. The Hobby plus Conqueror 6x6 virtually the same, couple of dollars more but should work. Hobby Plus 1/18 Scale 6x6 Transmission Gear Box & Axle Case Set SKU: HBP240035

The pilot light addition still working. If asking about the COA lights, they were installed jan. of 2022, so 21 months and still working fine, no issues.

@@-AnEv942 How do you resync a cab light if it goes out of sync?

I've not had that issue, these only are on/off. the originals that had flash, brightness level features, sync issues was more common and I think why discontinued. However to resync its remove 2 screws holding lens, take out the light module, take it and remote far enough away from truck (lights on) remote doesn't affect truck, turn on the out of sync light to match lights on truck, reinstall. Another video outling this: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y7-kmKiJ2by5gqM.html. From what i gather tapping the remote is one way the older lights got out of sync, you need to hold the on button until all lights are on. I hold the on button for 1-2 seconds to ensure all are on. Good luck.

as I mentioned...just bumbling along

It likely does ground thru the RCA cable and extra ground not required but I connected the ground under the dash to an existing chassis ground screw. Yes I cut the RCA cable to pull thru instead of trying to push thru the extension cable plug or the rather large RCA jack thru. Other reason is the cable (36 feet) needed to be shortened anyway so cutting just made getting thru easier plus I wanted to make the pass thru hole as small as possible. Soldering connections also need to ensure cable shielding re-attached. Alternately to not cut you could push the small plug on extension cable plug thru (probably not easy but in the long run save cutting/soldering) to engine bay and coil up extra wire may behind fender or in engine bay. I cut cable, used a stiff piece of steel wire to get thru grommet and pulled cable plugged in to camera inside. Wished I had documented wiring better-doing this from memory...

thanks for your patience! now I got the full picture. I will follow your guidance. have a great weekend!@@-AnEv942

Actually it was pretty easy, well a bit contorted under the dash, etc but is pretty much plug & play. long story This install frustrating because when the frac fuse blew there was an unrelated vehicle fuse that controls the backup lights also was blown. ( It was NOT either fuse labeled backup, 'LAMP IC' I think) It was me when trouble shooting the no rear camera once frac installed that frac fuse was blown. Cars camera was working but never looked at rear of car, but the backup lights were not working and the frac uses that as signal. Trying to trouble shoot is when frac fuse was blown. Which had us chasing our tail...because replaced frac fuse and it still didn't work. Removed the frac and put radio back to stock camera worked? Next day is when I traced out, realized no signal and went to rear of car and saw no backup lights. Tested ALL fuses discovering one bad fuse (not blown visually) that caused all issues. Nothing due to the Frac harness-all me. Its possible I somehow caused but honestly almost believe the no back up light was a pre-existing condition, hooking up the frac it didn't work because of no signal from backup lights. And then me trouble shooting system hot blew the frac fuse. If memory serves power wire came loose and touched chassis. The intial cause of no back up lights (and no signal to frac) a mystery, as all cars wires are contained within harness. That said if contemplating, ensure everything is working before beginning. Ensure wires are protected before energizing.

Thanks! @@-AnEv942

The explanation is very clear, and your video quite useful. Thanks again for sharing and explaining what happened. @@-AnEv942

Well... your last question showed in notifications but not here? Or at least I can respond to. Odd Any way loaded short vid showing connection. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rN5mqayUu6q9ZZ8.html Connect FRAC to the trigger wire at cameras RCA plug (Labeled B if same camera). The other wire (labled D) isnt used for FRAC.

thanks again!. I was not sure which of red wire of the camera would go to the Frac harness, but now it is clear. much appreciated!@@-AnEv942

Yes- however more beneficial at least to me was searching out other videos. Especially removing dash parts etc.

ha dont know. Old age, too many drugs, Dracula's standing behind me, worried about critique from KZfaq viewers? But ya I do...

At the time I picked up thru electricstep.com in CA. On the mfgs site www.amp-research.com they have a lookup dealer page for your state, also available options. Once you have a part number you could search for best price. But even amazon lists...

I recall a video using small magnet as spacer but read where some were having issue with magnet sticking but never tried. Your question though, if you mean more stitches per inch/shorter stitch length -no I've not seen any. If you mean less stitches per inch or longer stitch length, yes few ways. The stock stitch length plate limits travel, I made replacement to get full travel with adjustable stops. Sailrite makes a replacement "EZ stich " though unsure if it allows greater travel. Trevor made a video - in the end he basically flipped stock plate for longer stitches. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n5qngrGe3L-5qnk.html

There is another means to change foot height but it can be a lot more involved. This mod changes lift height Without affecting or needing to readjust any other timing or possible range of motion adjustments. But I'd likely screw it up This simple one time mod took 10 minuets. It semi permanently, increases how much foot is lifted and clearance underneath each and every time the arm is lifted.

I agree. He took an awful long time to make a simple screw adjustment that would have done the trick in 2 minutes tops.

If there is a simpler '2 minute' means to accomplish raising the presser foot most, myself included, would rather perform than having to make modifications. The Trevor mod is what I found and worked for me. However If someone would include a link showing how to do mentioned "just loosen a screw" on a Consew CP206R / CP206RL machine I would like to see and would gladly pass on.

I started out with a Curt 56130 non powered unit which did work but i blew it up fiddling around (adding more lights). Replaced with and what has been working flawlessly is a Curt 56187 Powered unit .

Correct but wasn't intent, only to show result of adding PWM controller. Basically campers power and ground is disconnected from motor and is routed to new controller. Controllers output is then routed to motor.

By 'module' I assume you mean the relay? Its an off the shelf 12volt 5 pin relay with a normally closed pin (#87-A thats internally connected to pin #30) and a normally open pin (#87 that connects to pin #30 when #85 energized). When the relay is not energized (no power to pin #85), manually sending power to pin #87-A turns on front camera which is connected to pin 30. We are using relay to turn OFF power to front camera if its on , when pin #85 energized by the reverse or manual rear camera power it connectcts the front camera to pin 87 which isnt connected to anything (turns off power to front camera.) A 4 pin NC relay could be used but these 5 pin NO/NC are easier to find. Relays can be had at any auto parts house, electronic store, Amazon etc. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0748F1JK4 only as example of type

Cool, appreciate that! The whole point of posting, though far from a good how-to vid (posting these videos as I bumbled along) that you were able to follow and complete impressive.

Steps use a sliding T nut that's captured in track on tread which can be moved/slid to any position along the length of tread. Can be seen in this install video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gM-IlK-CyLC6Z6c.html

Some hardware stores will carry small brass or aluminum rod, could use steel. Many use heavy coat hanger. If memory serves I think what i used was a length of brazing rod.

Many use a Gates 1210 which is 21". On my machine it was tight and barley got on so ordered a 1220. The 1220 was way too loose. Ended up lengthening the base adjustment slots a bit and used the 1210 (the 1210 is 21", the 1220 is 22").

@@-AnEv942 thank you for letting me know. Much appreciated.

On our stove, at the rear under top cover at both left & right sides are open areas to behind stove. Shown at about 0:49, you can see wire I ran along left side to rear-across the back then exited where gas lines exit on the right, (where the main & pilot aluminum gas lines run back and down to oven). At rear of the oven is a rather large open area open to the side & to the same space. Shown about 1:06, gas lines run in and where I followed and entered oven. Hope that helps- I'm sure stoves (ours an '01 Atwood) are all different and camper mfg that installed them likely added their own twist .

Thank you! I’ll be checking my setup tomorrow. We’re full timing so the oven gets a workout! Safe travels!

That actually not a bad idea, but couple of things to verify. My 1st thought is if 9v battery enough to maintain memory, I don't know how low of voltage will work, 2nd its longevity. Only milliamps on memory so likely a while if that's all it did. However as battery is always in line, even though ATX supplying power, battery may see draw continuously? Biggest issue though is If radio on when ATX looses power radio would try to use battery (if radio ign & memory tied) . So diode to keep ATX 12v from battery, so battery feeds memory wire, but another to ensure ign wire doesn't see battery thru memory wire so radio shuts radio shuts off if ATX off? Some thought required here-If it were not such a pain to access mine-I'd pursue. Ya the switch, every so often I forget to switch- turn off shop and dump memory. Or like the other night we had power outage for few hours so regardless of switch. memory dumped. Curious what you come up with

@@-AnEv942 Thank you for the quick reply. Haven't started the project yet but from my understanding the draw from the battery while at same time the ATX is running would be low (small stream vs big river) though to be safe a switch like your idea is better. And yes the battery is connected to the yellow wire only with a switch near the head unit for the red wire and ATX turn on just like a car accessory switch. The 9v battery trick is often used by car battery shop while changing car battery (memory saver). The first head unit I've tried was a Kenwood cd player and that thing draw a lot for memory but my new one is mechless (no cd or dvd just radio, usb, bluetooth and line in) draw a lot less (about 0.001amp if I'm not mistaken). And yes, I've tested with the 9v battery and it did retain all the settings. I just have no time right now to build the system but nearly all the item needed are laying around somewhere in my home. Hope I've given you some new ideas as your video had given me ideas as what to do with some of my junk destined to the junk yard. P.S hope you make a video of our little discussion to give others out there some food for thought.

@@TheCanyonhopper Well the battery backup motivated me to readdress. Completely different than what I think you were suggesting and obviously a lot more involved but it works. So thanks for the nudge EDIT: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rN6eo6-p3szTZqs.html I used relay so battery only feeds memory when AC line power down. 6.57 min

Yes I actually did later. Didn't make video. Really think you got it lined out though. Just hard to visualize all the wires/functions :) Separate project but I added ign bypass power for radio, mostly wanted to stop android radio from cycling when key turned, ability to use without powering other stuff or key etc.. At anyrate In doing so I realized, though not due to power bypass, I could easily also use cameras manually-just hadn't occurred to me. As existing relay setup makes reverse master as you noted, just isolating the reverse lights with diode operates similar to what i have, manual front camera, overridden by reverse. Tapping power from existing manual front camera power & adding switch for rear camera. Now rear camera either powered by reverse signal OR manual switch (constant). Front or rear camera can be manually turned on- reverse (or rear manual switch) overrides if front camera switch on. I added second switch (Ive never seen 3 way in style I use) for rear but the 3-way would work well- just adding manual power to cameras power signal wire that triggers monitor, also powers camera (like reverse). The backup light diode between light and rear cameras power tap so reverse can still signal but lights wont be activated when camera manually powered. modified schematic if it helps photos.app.goo.gl/5smsgP7qLvJV5CNJ8 Added under dash- added diode at rear taillight not shown...

@@-AnEv942 I appreciate you taking the time to respond and edit you wiring schematic for me. It's hard for me to visualize all the different routes things have to take in order for them to operate properly when making my own schematic. I'm certainly a novice when it comes to electeonics, but I love challenging myself with these kinds of projects. Thanks again. *Subscribed*

locations shown I used IN4001 to separate the cameras, though most any small diodes would work, very low load. I used because I already had premade Y from another project. But to insure just isolation between cameras as shown the IN4001 sufficient.

@@-AnEv942 Thanks mate!

Remove table if used, removed outer half of dust port if used. On the outer edge of metal disk should be a line, rotate till its straight up, aligned with slot at top of plastic guard. Insert a 4mm allen (hex) wrench thru plastic guard and try to stab the allen set screw on disk shaft, Counterclockwise to loosen, disk should slide off. Might be able to access allen screw from bottom once outer disk port removed, finding the set screw from top can be a test sometimes...

@@-AnEv942 thanks a lot. It's already better thanks

1:20. Basically reverse triggered camera/monitor wired as normal with tap on trigger wire going to monitor to also feed relay signal terminal #86. Front camera wired to manual 12v powered switch. Power to front camera goes thru relay. (from 87a to #30). If front camera switch turned on and not in reverse, front camera and monitor will come on and stay on until switched off or vehicle put into reverse. When vehicle put into reverse it sends power to rear camera and sends signal to turn on monitor, it also sends power to relay disconnecting power to front camera ( connecting #30 to unused #87). Diodes are (used to prevent one camera from feeding other camera) installed on camera trigger wires before tied to monitor. Works way better than my ability to relate how,

? Not sure about the ground melting, sounds like direct short unless excessive power draw. The wall wart I'm using the wires are tiny maybe #22 gage and run about16'. But only the 500Ma max for memory is going thru it. Yes all the grounds are tied together. The switch basically is 2 switches side by side, just performs 2 functions simultaneously. One side selects which power source goes to radio, the other side only connects the ATX green wire to ground (turning it on). #6 pin isn't used in my case, connecting the wall warts ground to it 'could' be done, which would connect wall warts ground to the other grounds, but functionally would be no different than what I have. The green wire shown is the ON signal hot from ATX- grounding it causes it to come on. IF you had it (green wire) to center terminal and had another ground source connected that would be direct short. The other thought is mentioned battery..fuse close to battery is always a good idea even though radio fused (assume). Should be no reason for diode, no backfeeding as shown, not sure how or which power source substituting at switch to connect battery. I would guess in lieu of wall wart? Wish I could be more help-hard to trace your wiring from here. As to 3 way switches, typically/primary use, source would be to center and switch would select which device(load) or function is powered. Or from center terminal to one of the outers, were just going opposite direction, from one of the outer terminals to the center.

Though linked in description (show more) the unit I used is amazon.com/gp/product/B00F839VNQ. Many vendors and styles but this worked for us both physically and operationally and at the time was only $10. Got lucky as I just took a stab in the dark. It fit and no 'whine' in motor. Issue with pulse width modulation controllers is they can create audible noise/whine if the frequency too low or just because? Amp rating well above fan (5 amp on the Fantastic I believe). Lastly speed knob remote, just more versatile to mount. This was installed 2 years ago-if redoing I'd use again, appears same switch but not to say it they haven't changed.

Thanks for the info. I intend to copy your setup. Well done, you have saved me a lot of experimenting. Cheers!