What you have here is quite the unicorn item. Many comments want to buy it or buy your services. One thing you could do would be to sell a kit with positioning/drilling templates, all the primary parts needed and make a more specific video on how to build one. (Get your wife to agree first, LOL.) There are a handful of tape restoration/capture companies that would either likely pay you top dollar or build their own units if it was a bit more of a kit offering. I can't imagine what this would go for if you finally sold it on eBay. And honestly, I suspect there may even be folks out there that would be willing to build this and sell it themselves to fill the gap between your invention and some folks' need for the finished product. Something else... you could take that design and augment it to have another tape on the other side and clean more than one tape at a time using the same cleaning medium to double the work and reduce the time required to clean a quantity of tapes. (Or not, just thinking out loud here.) Great work!
@gerardthornton36446 ай бұрын
This has to be one of the most overengineered, unnecessarily complicated devices I have ever seen.
@mayankmehta58987 ай бұрын
Can you share buying link for sapphire Blade and tissue roll thank you in advance
@Driessens_Peter7 ай бұрын
one question, who the hell still use VHS?
@TheRealHarrypm9 ай бұрын
This has cought the eye of the vhs-decode project, would be nice to see this complied into a full build-guide.
@NiteGrooves11 ай бұрын
Do you know what kind of mould that is?
@amateurhour-solderingelect34511 ай бұрын
I do not. I know it was preventing me from preserving memories and that it shouldn't be treated lightly.
@SashaV. Жыл бұрын
If you charged 3 dollars, for vhs and cleaning them on your machine, I would pay it lol. I wouldn't mind paying a fortune for shipping to the US and back to my country, which is in the middle of nowhere; It would be worth it.
@lunaremissions1859 Жыл бұрын
Hi, what type of cleaning tape do you use?
@amateurhour-solderingelect345 Жыл бұрын
I use TapeCheck tissue. I purchased a couple dozen rolls from an eBay seller a couple years ago. Doesn't look like they're selling any more.
@lunaremissions1859 Жыл бұрын
@@amateurhour-solderingelect345 Is there anything I can find on Amazon?
@Zonuna_Chawngthu Жыл бұрын
I really like your machine, this is kind of what I always had in mine, I still got more then 50 VHS tapes to be clean, but a normal cleaner could not clean them, so I pulled myself together and clean around 10 tapes Manually spooling and wiping every 2 ft, I really wish your creation is for sale, a need a slow cleaning just like yours.
@amateurhour-solderingelect345 Жыл бұрын
Where are you located? It's a long shot but if you're within driving distance to East TN I'd consider lending it out but I'm not really looking to sell it.
@Zonuna_Chawngthu Жыл бұрын
@@amateurhour-solderingelect345 Sorry i live on the other side, in India
@mayankmehta2761 Жыл бұрын
Very useful video and knowledge sharing too thank you
@georgelukeunfiltered6968 Жыл бұрын
If that shit goes up to 88 miles per hour you'll go back in time
@amateurhour-solderingelect345 Жыл бұрын
Damn O'reilly Auto Parts hasn't been able to get the last part I need to convert this to a full blown time machine. www.oreillyauto.com/flux-500.html?q=121g
@georgelukeunfiltered6968 Жыл бұрын
Haha 😂 Honestly though, you created something pretty extroardinary
@georgelukeunfiltered6968 Жыл бұрын
If the term 'cleanliness is Godliness' is true, I'm thinking you probably are actually God
@PedroChehoud Жыл бұрын
dang dude, thats legit!! great work
@jdrs4214 Жыл бұрын
Sir, I’ve been soldering for many years, ….and I still don’t properly solder smd chips. I think you’re doing great as a beginner. Anyhow, I recapped the power board, turned on the game gear, didn’t power on, for the next few tries, then It came to life (don’t know how), it played the game, and then I had to disassemble the unit to flip the rear lcd polarizer, since it was passing off way too much light; Reassembled it, then it blew the transistor next to what looks like ferrite beads. Is that a common issue on those power boards, that can’t handle the new capacitors, since they’re probably aged; or did I screw up somewhere???? Oh, and this thing also had detached lcd polarizer filters on front and rear of lcd glass panel, that I was trying to also fix.
@weversonsilva4699 Жыл бұрын
Parabéns pela criação! Você é um gênio!
@oldgoody1 Жыл бұрын
Lots of work here but isnt the proof of the cleaning in playing the tape? Picture and sound.
@1977Bonifácio-man2 жыл бұрын
I have a bunch of power boards that dont output the correct voltage, im not a technician so its not easy to find out where is the problem, but for what i see that MB3775 Chip is the main responsible for managing the correct voltages
@christophemaquet18002 жыл бұрын
Have you thought of selling your system all ready to use. If so I might be interested.
@amateurhour-solderingelect3452 жыл бұрын
If I ever decide to sell it I'll let you know. If I started building additional units I'm afraid my wife may leave me. I spent months on this one. If I decide to create more of them I'll let you know as well.
@bradcollins90463 жыл бұрын
So cool - have you considered a modification allowing for the cleaning of 7in reel to reel audio tapes? If so, I have a box to send your way!
@amateurhour-solderingelect3453 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the reply! I have not had a need to convert it to work with 7 in reels but if I every do I'll let you know. Thanks!
@AdaptiveRider3 жыл бұрын
Please shoot me an email me at cosmocorrado@ gmail.com, I would love to ask if you would be willing to clean 5 very sentimental tapes for me? I am paralyzed and in a wheelchair, and sent have the equipment or dextirity to build my own DIY tape cleaner :(
@AdaptiveRider3 жыл бұрын
What a great invention! Well designed and well executed!
@nyprince59223 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this video. I had the same issue...after recapping my game gear, it powers on briefly then shuts off in a second or two. I was suspecting the power regulator/transistors too and almost ordered the kit from Retrosix but after seeing your video, I decided to change out the new capacitors I have just installed on the power board. Lo and behold, it worked! I am not sure why since I too used brand new Nichicon capacitors the first time. My friend who is an engineer thinks that I may not have allowed the solder to flow completely through the holes initially since there are connections on both sides for each leg of the capacitors. I guess the second time, more solder accumulated in the holes so the connections were made on both sides of the board.
@NewRetroRepair3 жыл бұрын
Your biggest mistake by far is not using flux. Your solder likely has a flux core, but alone in isolation it's rarely good enough. Around 5:50 you tin a pad. You can do it this way but the heat of your solder tip melts and destroys the flux after you've applied it to the pad. You might notice it forms a sort of spike after you solder that first pin. Instead, position the IC with your tweezers first and then heat one leg and a pad simultaneously, and feed a small amount of solder and it'll flow and make a nice smooth solder joint. If you want to pre-tin the pad, apply a small amount of flux after tinning before you solder the IC. It'll make your life a LOT easier. Better yet, use a flat solder tip, solder diagonal corners down, flux along the length of the IC pins and the contact pads and then apply solder to the flat tip and drag back and forth down a line of legs/pads. The method is called drag soldering. Also, use less solder. You use an awful lot of solder to the legs of the IC, and you do the same elsewhere. With solder, less is often more. Another piece of advice, be careful moving a component whilst applying heat. It's real easy for some of you solder to cool enough to tear off a pad if you're not careful as you move a cooling component from a hot solder joint. I've done it myself! Also, you mention toward the end about how you tested the capacitance of the caps you soldered to the board. Did you test them in circuit or after you'd removed them? I mention it because you need to take 'em out of circuit to get a reliable reading. Also, you totally have some cool gear! I noticed the Quick hot air station in the background. Good choice man. Nice little scope you got there too. Good stuff!
@amateurhour-solderingelect3453 жыл бұрын
Great input! Greatly appreciate the feedback. Makes a lot of sense. To answer your question, I tested the capacitors out of circuit. I tested all of the capacitors prior to installing them and also tested the power board caps after pulling them back out. I had read where they have to be removed to accurately check the capacitance. The same appears to be true for resistors as well as other resistors in circuit can impact the reading.
@amateurhour-solderingelect3453 жыл бұрын
Forgot to mention, Thanks for the compliment on the gear. I researched it a good bit before buying the Quick but it is very nice. I've been learning by trial and error on how to use it but I'm slowly getting more confident with it. I've replaced a couple of retimer chips (Xbox one X) but unfortunately, when replacing the HDMI port on one of them I heated the board up too much and damaged the U21 IC which is a chip that is only available from donor boards due to it being a Microsoft specific IC that is made by STMicroelectronics (HDMI ESD Booster).
@NewRetroRepair3 жыл бұрын
@@amateurhour-solderingelect345 Ooof. Reliable donor boards are tricky to come by. At least for a decent price anyways. You can always create a heat shield around components using adhesive foil or kapton tape. It's particularly handy to have if you're using hot air. It's good for protecting anything plastic that you're soldering/desoldering.
@nicholasdryden2433 Жыл бұрын
Biggest mistake was using hot air. He melted the plastic connector for the cable nearby. In this situation you should use low temp solder like chip quick. Plus it’s just easier.