I have eather 1 or 2 but it looks way different then the 2 cars shown, first of all my turn signal is clipped on between side wing and front bumper on both side, the bumper is bigger and has larger holes for all radiators, rear wing is similar to silver rx8 but myn is bit wider and longer, also headlights are more round... it's a 2008 192ps base model a27 paint

It's like Comparing Ae86 with Rx7

As much as I love the design of the GT/BRZ/FRS, IMHO it would've been an (even) more enjoyable car with a 2ZZ engine out of the Celica GTS instead of the N/A boxer engine. It's the reason why I'm also keeping my RX8.

Will there be more videos about the RX8?

Easy way to tell is the fact that the manufacturer would have taken advantage of labeling the motor with a higher displacement if what all the rotary fan boys in the comments said was true/legitimate way to measure the displacement.🤷‍♂️

Yeah until you have to own it

Is this the kid that explains the difference dimensions?

I'm fixing to rebuild my engine in a shinka I just bought, first rebuild! One question though what do I need to do with the ac system so I dont spray myself with freeon😂 Also do I have to have front wheels off for anything? I'm rebuilding off of 12in raceramp blocks so their sitting on tires. Preesh!

Good explanation mate, also I believe the 13B refers to 1.3 litre displacement.

Junkkkkkkk

That's a great job of explaining the displacement, but it still doesn't make any sense to me. What it describes is one face of a three lobed rotor. It fires three times in a single rotation. Why wouldn't the displacement be calculated then the same way that a two stroke's displacement would be calculated? As an example, a 3-cylinder 2-stroke engine displacing 750 CC's wouldn't be called a 250, it would be called a 750. All cylinders will fire once throughout one rotation of the crank. The other lobes of the rotor are simply doing the same things that the other two cylinders are doing in the three cylinder 2-stroke example while one of the Piston is on its powerstroke.

Reasons to swap in a non rotary engine so the car will be reliable and actually work, these cars blow engines all the time.

Would you consider selling block off plates you designed?

its so good but the model link doesnt work rigntnow, can you send me a link

👍👍👍

i still love this car

Great Video! But is it necessary to remove the transmission and exhaust?

Bbbbb sssssss vid. Trying to rebuild them doesn't pan out as the surface is warn. If you refinish it then you gave a big gap.

Since this video is several years old, it’s probably too late, but I used to have the same issues overheating when tracking my RX8, and know several others that did too. The way I solved the problem was airflow. Nothing else worked, but now I can track it on the hottest summer day with no issues. First, get rid of the stock intake. Racingbeat intake just as bad, the point is to get rid if that huge box. AEM intake will allow much more airflow through radiator. Add some ducting (I used aluminum, but foam should work too) to force all air to go through the radiator, rather than escape around it. Then add hood vents (Good-win Racing is what I used). No need for carbon fiber, just get a stock hood from a junk yard, it will be plenty light and fitment will be perfect. For winter I put on the non-vented hood, summer or track day the vented. Four bolts, very easy. If you do this you will not have any more problem.

I don't understand why everyone thinks the only or best engine swap for the RX8 is an LS. In my opinion the SR20 is the best option. It weighs less than an LS, it can make good power and it doesn't throw off the handling or geometry of the car. The reason people swap the LS is because it's cheap power. You can skip the typical " you need all these parts to swap in an LS " argument by buying a donor vehicle. Except from a rear diff and driveshaft you will get everything you need. But again in my opinion the SR20 is the better choice because it is a very similar swap when it comes to parts needed except you don't need to change the rear diff unless you're going to the Moon with power which is not the goal of sr20s and an SR20 won't ruin the handling or the driving characteristics of the car. SR20 all the way..... Until the k-series becomes a more popular swap and then obvious choice is obvious

Do they scrap?

Great DIY , good job 👍🏼

Hope all is good. You haven't updated in a while

For the roads you were using, the piston one. However if you had more open road to change through more gears before letting off the throttle, I give it to the rotary engine.

Hey Mate, really enjoying the series, thanks for taking the time to make it :) Question: what did you use to clearance the side seals? i have seen all sorts of things from jigs in drill presses to hand grind wheel style tools.

Your followers want a update on the rx8's including me I'm a fan bro Mines still goin at 160,000 ( 45000 on new engine/transmission)

Good video but man...please talk normally, i'm hearing your voice cracking in my headphones and it's fucking annoying. jesus christ.

You want to say RX8 is faster but actually is not...

I am looking for one for my wife. Any tips on a good dealer that specializes in these great little cars?

My uncle bought an rx8 brand new in 2004 and he tried to launch it and broke the rear axle and the subframe shifted. It’s not the engine that’s the problem it’s arguably the rest of the suspension and driveline.

Maybe after bidenomics

Hey there, I just thought I'd add a comment. I have engine swapped my rx8 for a 1.8t 20v why? Well my 4 port engine grenaded and damaged the housing and a rotor, and in my country, we don't have the parts for it so I would spend a fortune importing stuff so why did I choose the 1.8t 20v? easy to source parts - in the UAE, these things are everywhere, and a dime a dozen I spent less on the entire engine swap including the engine than just importing parts and rebuilding the original engine, and that's including things like the bell housing adaptor a clutch and I went standalone ecu also and a much bigger turbo fuel-efficient - way more fuel-efficient so the swap pays for itself in the long run reliability - 20v 1.8t engines are hella reliable you do an oil change every so often, and that's about it sound - sure it's not a rotary buzz, but the redline is the same (remember I had a 4 port at 7500 rpm my 1.8t revs to 8000) It is actually a slight bit meatier I used the same back box and everything too so it not other exhaust changes causing it really tuning - it's a 1.8t its one of the world's most heavily modified engines and parts are cheap, and people have pushed all the limits if I want to make 400hp I can if I want to make 800hp I can a renesis cant no matter what you throw at the problem Weight well I have gained a total of about 40lbs and it sits so far back the weight distribution is about the same and it makes 0 difference to the handling at all as far I can tell on a road maybe ill take it to the track but I don't feel the need quality of life? i have AC and power steering still the dash works normally arguably my ac is colder now its not got a roasting hot rotary to deal with and I did use the original gearbox as well so it made sure to be easy its quieter at normal driving it has buckets more torque which makes passing easier and less effort I don't have to think about checking my oil or adding pre mix like before and if I break anything its cheap and available I'm incredibly happy to have swapped and I would do it again in a heartbeat and recommend the swap to others as it was and is a really easy swap

If I didnt have OEM headlights that cost $600 I would probably try it too 😂 It looks great man

1:38 the veins

The only people who claim rotories are 2.6s are insurance coumpany crooks who no one at all likes and are scammers and people who hate on rotories because there asses got drug by one previously 😂

I think you missed the point. The idea is transmission and engine swap to keep handling similsr slong with larger rear tires and wheels if youre going much much larger or higher hp. Otherwise. You find something alloy block and light that sits in the right spot. Also like the miata i believe the rotary iron block isnt much lighter then some ls v8 alloy block set ups. And once you upgrade the transmission you can tweak the balance. Like some miata where you get a perfect 5050 weight distro with an ls alloy block and only gain 100 lbs total but net as much as 450 500 to the wheels with a tune and some other stuff and 525 to the crank easy. My theory was. Rx8. Widebody and aero kit. Few other things like bigger rear wheels and rubber. More sturdy transmission to offset the weight balance change. K series with a blower and turbo twincharger system. Few things to help reduce weight. And a few other mods. Water to air can be lighter then a giant intercooler. Ac powered interchiller that runs till redline with the right ac compressor means you dont need a normal set up for that and helps control engine temps beyond intake charge and helps turbos and blower live longer. Modern blowers have bypass valves. Less plumbing. Say a t56 6 speed. And a 2.2L k series with a blower and turbo set up. Heavier stronger rear diff. Driveshat shop custom carbon. Depending on ecu and boost mapping and tune. Plus if you keep vtec. 500hp fairly easy to the wheels. Youll only be a bit heavier but a 6 speed, with a 9000 rpm redline and nice intake temps the entire time. Better reliability. Room for growth. And can keep the balance proper. Plus lighten up key areas. Its like 25lbs for a k20 vs the 13b. K24 isnt too much heavier and should work nicely with the transmission weight gain. Meaning a ls3 also isnt hard. 418 for a dead stock ls3. And you can get them lighter. Its like 25 extra pounds for a t56 magnum. Spending money on rims and tires and other birs you could save weight in unsprung weight and other stuff helping. Plus make up for the minor weight gain. You can also shave weight on the echaust easy and other stuff over stock. And easily doubling the hp would make up for less then a typical passanger in weight gain. Especially if balance is unaffected and you tuned the torque curve. For an ls youre looking at at least 525 at the crank. And 200lbs being needed to be made up for. Not hard to remove weight off the stock ls itself. Or the front end of the car. Nor shift the fire wall back a lil bit with hammering. 2 piece rotors in the front and not the rear would be like 20lbs. Weight gain in rear wnd tires and rims. 25lbs minimum of transmission. Rear mount the battery.

The dude is just repeating everything he read on FB - he has no idea if the info is correct or not.

this is not suicide doors omg

Can you disconnect the back of your throat from the front of your throat when talking please?

Could you use pie cuts instead of a tube bender

Blud abandond the channel

Where are you man i am missing you love you so much .😢

That’s a load of white smoke

Ofcourse a V8 is too heavy as a replacement! So put in a more European 4 cillinder engine, that should not be too heavy and uses far less fuel than a V8 or even the original engine. It could still do more than 125 m/h.

Just happend to me today. So happy with your video! Printing files now, welding tomorrow, driving on Tuesday... 🙂

doesnt the 1.3 have 192 but the 2.6 have 240

Your is so clean btw!!!!

But that rpm range and short throw shifterrr

Old ae 86 still got better looking than the new one