Hey that's great! We all start somewhere. If you ever post a video of the stove in action be sure to please send me a link!

Sorry to hear it hasn't worked out for you. Thank you for your feedback!

Show me

I'll get back to you

@piochaparro7389 If you mean the round one that looks like a ring, it goes on the inside on the bottom.

@@MegaRiffraff 🤝

@@RexusOutfitters thank you for watching and commenting

@@AnthonyPortilla-tz3ji Interesting idea. I would still just recommend using tent stakes.

@@qivarebil2149 thankfully yes.

rug roh. Definitely give harbor freight a call.

You're welcome! That's why I made this channel :)

@wesleyshafer6310 No sorry I have not. If you're looking for input on a homemade burner , the only advice I can offer is look up something called a venturi burner.

Do you mean the metal sleeve that screws over the brass nozzle? If yes, unfortunately it is 100% necessary. If you ordered it through Amazon, definitely report it.

@@GeneralDesignInnovation-es4zz noted, thank you

@@boblaughton5913 Sorry for the late reply. It is a twenty amp breaker.

thank you for the info. I'll keep that in mind.

I've seen people use cinderblocks as well. Might be a possible avenue to explore as well.

@@steelforestweldingandforge.... trouble is cinderblocks dont last long due to cracking which is why building the fire pit part of the bbq will line it with fire bricks..... but fire bricks really dont lend them self into a rocket stove design ... so thinking a metal r/stove incorperated into the block bbq even if i have to line it in with f/bricks to protect the blocks

@jeffpiper7430 good point, they will eventually decay.

Glad it was helpful!

It's held up great I still love it. Glad the video helped.

@@steelforestweldingandforge Yes sir!! Good luck and I will check on your other vids. Cheers from Alberta!!!

That's what this channel is all about :) Glad to help.

That's the beauty to these stoves, they are highly customizable.

No, definitely not. 1/2" is in the realm of plate fabrication and definitely requires heavy duty machines if you want to bend them cold.

I've sold dozens of these stoves literally from California to New York. I've learned how the postal companies charge for weight and parcel size and have maximised the stove size while keeping shipping costs very low. And no, I will not be giving my plans away. I've spent many hours designing and prototyping my stoves. Subscriptions won't pay for those sale losses for quite some time.

Awesome! Happy to hear your picking up the hammer! Thx for watching.

I certainly can, will be awhile though. It's currently shoved in the far back of the shed.

Trust me, it made me pucker as well.

Thank you for the advice!

Awesome advice thank you very much.

Sorry but could you be a little bit more specific? I'll try and help but again.I'm not a machinist by trade.

There is always some runout with 3 jaw chucks. After facing and turning it shouldn't wobble. I believe you can get it to run true with 4 jaw chucks but it takes effort and I've never done it.

That's what I'm here for. Happy to help.

Noted.

What designs exactly are making the stove less efficient? And on what evidence are you claiming my stoves are mediocre. Also, what are the standards would you use to judge a stove to be high quality?

@@steelforestweldingandforge hi. First, please let me apologise, I typed my comment in a hurry and when I read it back now it does sound very rude and that was not my intention I am just a very blunt person. I've worked as a professional designer for almost 3 decades now. I'll give you my thoughts on your stove and how it could be functionally improved. The top grille area that holds the skillet etc is terrible. Any large skillet or heavy cookpot would be very unstable because your 4 support posts are too narrow. There is not enough height from the tube top to the skillet bottom, restricting airflow which restricts clean burn and reduces the rocket effect. For a 4 inch square pipe that has 16 sq inches of airflow, so you need more than 16 sq inches of air allowed out the top under the skillet because air changing direction also effectively reduces airflow. I would recommend getting the skillet at least 3 inches above the pipe top, 4 inches may be better. Your 4 top posts have other problems. You cannot put a coffee mug on it. The top grille area should be able to hold any item, large or small like a big skillet, a small mug, a medium sized coffee pot. A potato wrapped in foil etc. You cant grill on your stove. The very best steak flavour comes from flame grilled cooking. So the steak should be supported on a wire grille and flames actually sear the bottom of the steak and the juices etc. With many stoves you can just sit a wire grille on top on the stove but not with yours because of those tiny top posts. A superior stove top would habve a permanent wire type grille, mounted 4 inches above the pipetop and the grill big enough for 2 steaks, so approx 10x10 inches. Grille made of maybe 3/16 stainless wire with 1 inch spacing between each grill wire. That would be far superior to your 4 small posts for grilling steaks, kebabs or sausages direct, AND provides excellent support for large skillets, cookpots, or even small items like a metsl coffee mug. Hence my "rude" comment, that stove top would be harder to make and more expensive than your current setup, less profitable BUT far superior in function. Now those legs... ouch. They are cheap and quick to make. From a user standpoint your legs are lighter for carrying and smallish for car transport. In my opinion those are small gains for the user but bad functionality as legs. They are narrow and rounded corners, giving very poor stability on grass. Considering a rocket stove might have a big cookpot with 8 pints of soup etc on it your legs are very poor. They should have large flat feet like 2 inch flat steel 1/8 thick and overall width about 3/4 the height of the stove, so width needs to be 15 inches minimum. I think your height above the ground is about right, gets the stove above the wet grass. But the feet need to be much wider and bigger surface area so not to sink into soft ground etc. The rear foot under the vert pipe needs to be mounted more rearward to give better stability with heavy cookpot. Having a good top grille, and good feet, would vastly improve the functionality of your stove. I would,also include some type of carry handle, not just for carrying but can be used to shake the stove to stoke it, or to reposition it as the wind direction changes. Another improvment. Finally, some small flat "anvil" type plate like a piece of 4x4 inch checker plate 1/4 thick, could be welded in the valley between the vert tube and the diagonal feed tube. That could be used with a little cleaver to split small wood pieces, taking advantage of the grip offered by the checker plate. It woukd also be a very useful hot plate at a lower temperature. For baked potatoes or a coffee mug etc. Anyway you can use my suggestions or discard them and argue. You can make a better stove at a higher construction cost, or keep making a mediocre stove at a lower construction cost. Doesnt matter to me either way. Cheers. 🙂

I appreciate the apology, the internet is a terrible way to communicate. I would like to apologize as well. I made some assumptions on what you were trying to say.

Some of your criticisms are fair. I have changed the design of my stoves slightly and made the surface area of the top much larger. For some of your other points, these stoves are designed to be small, portable, and shipped in the mail. They serve 1-2 ppl max. A grill would be nice yes, but you're looking at hours of additional fabrication time. Plus, additional maintenance on.the customers end. These stoves average on five hours of build time per stove. Profitability wise, they are in reality VERY low. Welders, on average, charge 100-150$ per hour fabrication time. But ppl won't buy a stove that is expensive, unfortunately. No matter how sturdy it's built.

As far as a carrying handle or a warming plate goes. Yes, they would be nice, but the additional build time just doesn't justify the additions, in my opinion. What I think you would be looking for would be a stove made with 4.5-5 inch tubing. Twice the size of mine. With a permanent grill top, carrying handle, large removable legs, and a warming plate. You are looking in the range of several hundreds of dollars, plus additional hundreds of dollars in shipping costs. Once packages are over 24 inches I believe they are considered freight. And the shipping costs begin to increase exponentially. Now, a major corporation with large machines would be able to provide something like that, but I'm just one man in a garage. It's just not a realistic option unfortunately. So far the only complaint I have heard from my customers what the stoves top area. Hence, the modification I mentioned earlier. And are happy with what they are receiving thankfully. Again I appreciate the apology, and I apologize again. I continue to welcome construction criticism.

Thx for the feedback. Good to know. Did you put the unit together loose, or tighten as you went?

I had to loosen the frame bolts at the bottom of the support post for those support brackets to work. However. Once i tightened everything down, the bottom of the support post meeting the frame had a gap. It feels sturdy but you’re right, they missed the center to center length (support brackets) by maybe 3/8”-1/2”.

The melting point of copper is VERY high, close to 2000 degrees F. It will take a lot of heat to do so. Did you add refractory material like I did? Or use it straight out of the box? You will also need to increase your propane output. And sometimes material will look like it hasn't melted when, in fact, it has. Sometimes, you need to stir it. I have not personally attempted to melt copper with it. I believe it would, though, if I attempted it.

i tried it right out of the box, it claims it can melt copper. ive tried a few times now havent been able to get it to melt it just turns bright red. im not sure how long i need to let it burn. i just dont think this furnace can get hot enough to melt copper

If they are claiming it can melt copper right out of the box, and it isn't capable. I would say that is the fault of the company. I'll get a hold of some.copper and give it a try. On another note, I would highly recommend adding refractory to your furnace, not just for increased efficiency. But for safety, the silica lining in the blanket lining the furnace becomes airborne when in use and over time will damage your lungs. Good luck to you.

I'll do that thanks buddy

Sorry for the late reply. These are 24 gauge. I'm still really happy with these and highly recommend them. Thanks for watching!

That round piece sits at the bottom of the furnace. The crucible sits on top of it. Thank you and thx for watching!

Thanks I had the same question

Thank you, and thx for watching!

Thank you for watching and commenting to help the algorithm. Just wanted to add a small bit of advice. I would personally add the kindling first, then attempt to light it. :)

Valve, not vale.

This was one of my first videos, and yes it's a bit rough. I've learned a lot since then. As far as the oxygen valve is concerned, that's directly from the tank supplier. Thank for watching.

Thankfully, I did have enough foresight to leave enough room to remove it if necessary. Thx for watching.

Yes and no. I use the plasma cutter for making my rocket stoves, and unfortunately they haven't been selling well this year. So I can't really give an honest opinion on durability. Thanks for watching.

If using solely the tool, most likely no. However, since you will have the ring already rolled to a close dimension. All that you will need to do is bend your ring by hand. It should maintain a decent shape. At the same time, however, that is a very very small circle. So it probably won't be easy. Good luck, and thank you for watching.