I don’t know what waterproof fabric is… What waterproof fabric did you use?

Absolutely brilliant, thank you

Really helpful. Thanks for that great idea you brought up! That should help me finding out the perfect setting.

Thank you for such a practical and useful strategy to determine the best settings on my serger. I just purchased a Juki from a thrift shop - it sews great, but I'm trying to learn all I can about tension settings. Your video is a great resource!

Wish it was that easy. My stitches are good for one inch then they fall out of loopers. Pfaff 4852. Can’t find a thing on it for threading and the obvious, the book, isn’t helpful

Thanks for your good tips

Abi's Den videos like this is why people are afraid of their overlockers. A title like that is intimidating and justifies the machine is scary - it's not a dragon or a wild beast to tame Like

recently heard: The past is history and the future is a mystery. Today is a gift, that's why it's called the "present".

This is great, thank you !!

Of course, as a foolish mortal I don‘t even know what exactly these things do. Aside from having needles…

I don‘t know why this was recommended to me…

So smart.

As several others have said, it is meaningless to say, as she does, that the upper looper wants to be set to 3 for perfect balance. No. The upper looper almost certainly wants to be set to the same number as whatever the lower looper is set to, which is a number she never tells us. Far better to start with sensible average numbers, as usually stated in your manual, such as 4,4,4,4, then adjust each tension separately up and down from that by 1 or 2. But be aware that you are seeing the settings for one specific seam width and stitch type on one specific fabric. Different stitches, different fabric weights and different seam widths all require different tensions, so do a little test before sewing.

America needs more moral people.

There's no need for all that rigmarole.

Holy he// !! Thank you so much. I’ve been fighting my serger for a long time!! This is amazing info

שלום לך יש לי את המכונה הזאת והייתי שמחה לקבל עוד הדרכות תודה מראש

Great tip ~ thank you!

Great video thank you

This was terrific. I'm a brand new sewer and your videos are helping so very much. Thanks!

This is great, but I need to know what would be considered perfect and balance for the other three threads. We know what number are the optimal setting on her machine, but not why she picked them.

Does this not depend on what fabric you are using? Do you have to go through this process for each different fabric you want to serge?

That was a great video !

You made everything easy to understand. Thank you so much 😊

Thank you so much for this very time saving tutorial. Have fought with my serger for a week to get the tensions correct. Then i found and followed your tutorial and within an hour i had the right settings. I, am eternally grateful!!

This was brilliant.... Thank you... Jon

This is a great technique for a particular fabric. At least with my serger, when you switch to say a knit double layer or single layer, tension adjustments need to be made. I keep a sample of the serged fabric pinned to a paper with the tensions settings and stitch length etc. recorded so I can quickly adjust the serger for that type of fabric for next time.

Really like this tip. Great video

I have a Bernette older model serger and a baby lock proline 738D and I want to throw them out the window!!!! I am trying to make masks and I am having issues with both of them with thinner fabric

This is pretty much what I've been looking for. I'm just wondering, you said a seam stitch prior to serging is not always necessary. I'm doing a pair of leggings. So I would not need to do a seam stitch first, right? Also, I'm curious about the hem. How would I know where to fold the hem up to after serging it at the ankles of the leggings?

LINK below: I visited one of the links posted below by MrsStepford that showed samples of stiches and what the problem was that caused them. It was a great reference tool, but not in a printable format. So, hope this link works, but I copied and pasted everything into a word document, reformatted things to fit and have line breaks where they needed to be, and then saved it as a pdf I hope this shareable link will take you to. Hope it's handy, as it is for me. documentcloud.adobe.com/link/track?uri=urn:aaid:scds:US:1caee717-7906-487d-b305-1df5bdab2ff3

This Video is Great thank you for making it.

What a great resource! Thank you!

Thank u for your video.What I dont understand about the finished waterproof blanket is, that if something spills on it, the blanket still gets wet, doesn't it? Im wondering what the difference is whether it is or isn't reinforced with waterproof material? I assume, that if liquid spills on the blanket, it still gets wet, even when reinforced by the waterproof material, doesnt it?

Best explanation I've come upon so far. I will be doing that!

Thanks. That was really helpful!

You don't need to go through all that work. Just use a scrap of the material being used & adjust. I also don't understand why different color threads are needed....? The upper looper is the top thread, the lower is the underside & the straight seam at the bottom is the needle. The different machine companies even use common sense colors to help: green (grass is Low), blue (sky is UP). 🙂 I have an OLD machine & every change of fabric is a pain to get 'perfect'. Buy an expensive machine 😉 & everything will be easier! Lol

10 seconds in... finally someone who talks slow enough to understand what you talk about. Thank you.

Good advice.

Why let the machine do such a long tail after finishing the job?

I start with the #4 on all dials.. then If necc I start tweaking with the upper looper 1st..Usually that does it, but if not then I turn the lower looper up or down one number.. once I get the perfect balanced stitch I put a pc of masking tape next to the stitches and list in order: for example: LL = 5 UL = 6 RN = 4. LN = 3. St Width = 5.5. St Length = 2.5. Diff Feed = Norm. I cut my fabric samples abt 5 in by 10” ,and fold in half like she did ..once I have the correct combo i cut ea one abt 4-5 in.. You have to do this for EACH DIFFERENT fabric that U use!.. I put them all in a box.. Then in the future, every time U sew a specific fabric you just look. thru the fabric samples and use those settings..

Definitely 5,4,3, but unsure about the yellow setting

I own a juki since a week and at moments I plan to give it back...although feedback says it is sooooo easy to use 😕😠

I know this is an older tutorial but I'd LOVE TO KNOW if any of the girls kept sewing and if any of those lovely young ladies have their own KZfaq channel now? This was absolutely great. I love that the girls were apart of this. Great job and a big thumbs up to all of them!!

New sub! Thanks for this tip; it's so clever! My serger was used/gifted to me, so it was threaded by the person who checked it out before I picked it up. It ran beautifully. Then I changed threads, had to cram study on how to thread the machine, and... it was awful. Two threads snapped. I didn't even realize they were snapped for several inches, and I'm just serging away... It was the hem of a prom gown! Fortunately I was able to salvage the job on another machine and it turned out fine; but now I have to go back and REALLY learn how to thread it!

Fantastic idea!!!

brillant!

Hi All, in your serger manual it will suggest the neutral setting. For my bernette funlock 004 says 3-5, so I kept my other threads on 4. I actually found this exercise very helpful, it will probably keep using it in the future. Also in your manual, it will tell you which way actually loosens and tightens the tension, don't assume read your manual.

Thank you so much.....exactly what I was looking for

I am trying to find a way how to remove the stitch finger from my Family Sew serger to make a roll hem