Yeah I agree. Although more chargers, the merrier in my eyes.

Yes, after a year I burn the battery so it can’t be recycled.

@@theweekthatis Only 50% of a lithium battery is usable after being recycled, and most councils can't be bothered to pay for the recycling as it's expensive so it goes into landfill. Furthermore, other rare materials are also in your iPhone, quite a lot of which are mined by children who are paid pennies. I'm not trying to give you a lecture on morality but maybe just spare a little on buying an iPhone every year and wait a few generations.

or go with refurbished. Thats one of the best things you can do for the economy and your wallet.

Who do you think buys the phone in the first place before it gets refurbished? What a crazy thing to say. I buy a new phone every year or two, then my wife has it for a year or two, then my Dad has it for a year or two. Then I use it for another couple of years as my backup camera for KZfaq. After about 8 years I normally get a new battery in it and sell the phone on facebook marketplace. The video you were watching was recorded on an old five year old iPhone. My iPhone is the single most important thing I own, so I like to have one that is new and reliable. But sure, carry on with your preposterous argument.

@@theweekthatis "Preposterous" Sorry for not knowing your entire family phone sharing situation, and simply only thinking critically about where we put our cash. And the point about buying refurbished is still a valid argument because someone else has gotten use out of it before you, hence 1 less phone being manufactured. Enjoy your collection of phones and the blood, sweat and tears along with worldly damage carried with them.

This particular one, is used on a handful of connectors in the wiring harness of Audi's and Volkswagens. This exact one, is usually used on things like coolant temperature sensor, knock sensor, brake pad wear sensor, hood contact sensor, and A/C compressor sensor. I think it's even used on brake fluid level sensor. Sometimes they corrode, rodents chew the wires, or they just mysteriously sever cleanly like they've been cut. Your air conditioning stop working in your car? Check the electrical connector for a break in the wire. Knowing that, saved me possibly $500-$1000 recently on my Audi A4 B7. It was severed like it had been cut, about 1/2 inch out from the connector. I have a temp fix on it, but this video has helped me understand how I am going to take it apart and fix it permanently.

Don’t be silly, this is a TRW issue, the bag was sealed and the box was sealed.

No, it’s been abused. It’s not normal.

Annoyingly not as it’s internal the connection, it would have to go on a lathe.

Exactly right! Hit the nail on the head.

Yeah, very true.

They’ve got nothing to do with this. Why would you even mention that?

@@theweekthatis that was supplied by euro car parts. I can tell from the sticker on it that's their stock number. Just I have lots of experience of euro car parts supplying my customers with incorrect /questionable quality parts.

It’s a sealed TRW part in a sealed TRW, I checked the part number against the genuine number. Euros just stuck the sticker on, they don’t have anything to do with this.

TRW literally are the OEM.

No, always insist on “genuine”. A parts manufacturer can supply any part and say it’s OEM, even if they don’t actually make that for the car maker, as long as they manufacture ANY part for the car maker.

TRW literally ARE the manufacturer for Land Rover, the old part had TRW cast into it. Also the servo was in the same box and the same part with the Land Rover Logo scratched off.

Well put, totally agree.

Chinese stuff is great, but bought from a Chinese company, they actually care about the product. TRW couldn’t get me off the phone quick enough.

FIAT seem to have fixed this bug now on the 500e

Absolutely!

It’s decidedly strange.

They are now, but there weren’t 8 years ago.

@theweekthatis yes m8 appreciate that. I just mentioned it in case anyone wanted to attempt this and wanted a cheap option to try (like me tomorrow. :) )

@@andynightingale7335 still not as cheap as a bit of contact cleaner though 😜

​@theweekthatis thanks for the video showing removal. Swapping out the switch today has worked and my dad can use the driver door window again. Cheers.

My pleasure

Not any more. But if you’re confused, try watching the video.

Thank you

Destroy it and fit a new connector maybe?

That’s great, thank you.

RESET it. Not preset. RESET. If you had to re-use the old one.

Yes, there’s a little tang that protrudes from the baseplate that sits in a recess in the head.

​@@theweekthatison closer watching of the video it is some sort of adjustment counter spring for that first belt adjuster, cheers

Thanks for watching

Thanks for letting me know too. 😃

Oh no, perhaps I need to update the code!

Hey, use my link to sign up to Octopus Electroverse & we both get charging credit! electroverse.octopus.energy/sign-up/magic?referralCode=rust-frog-928

AFAIK you need to complete a charge before we get the money

Thank you!

​@@theweekthatis I've done this before, once, but I followed ETKA instructions which tells you to *first* set the pump lift, *then* set toothed belt on rollers etc.. I think it makes more sense to do it like you do...fit the rollers, fit the belt, set the lift, and finally tighten the sprocket. I don't have the that fancy counter hold and it is a pain and stressful without it. I don't dare tighten the thing to 160 nm with the pump locked. I do 60 nm or so, release the pump lock, and then go the full 160 nm. Unfortunately this made the timing out of whack. After turning the crank 2 turns the lift is too low at TDC mark. I fix this by adjusting the rollers and make sure I have 0.55 mm lift after rotating the engine. Then I'm ready for dynamic timing.

The thing is, the whole point is the ECU does the pump timing. What we’re aiming to do here is get the base timing correct so the ECU has the most range to advance and retard it. As the belt ages it does drift anyway, it won’t matter to the actual running one bit.

It is not possible to recharge the battery. If it doesn’t work then the battery is flat and it must be renewed.

You don’t actually even need VCDS, just something that can put the ECU into basic settings and read the measuring blocks.

@@theweekthatisis it possible to do the cambelt without doing the injection pump belt because the injection pump belt pulley needs to be removed in order to lock the cams in place or is there another way to lock the cams

The cam is locked unless you undo the Cambelt cam pulley bolt and strike the pulley off the taper with a punch through the hole. So it’s perfectly possible to do the cambelt without touching the pumpbelt by marking the cam pulley with paint. However, this is the wrong way to do it, it is not suggested by the factory manual, you’ll have incorrect tension, bad cam timing and bad pump timing. May as well do it correctly.

@@theweekthatis so the cam shaft must be locked with that plate at the injection pump side and the cam pulley must be loosen on the crank pulley side to run freely on camshaft when tensioning the cambelt

@@user-bd6xo9ld2d exactly.

I’ve not seen that, but I’m sure it’s possible

John, you are literally commenting on a video of the price.

But I already have two electric cars.

How annoying, yes, I had that once!

Good, that’s the sort of thing we need in this world!