@@markmahone390 I've gotten a lot faster since!

@@dowlerenterprises wow lmao, sorry I never actually fixed it but this did work for me

He told me to keep it, haha 😅

@@sokgso I would, but I think I personally would prefer a 2AR swap. Nothing against K at all but the 2AR is Toyota and has a bit more torque. The problem is just that my 1zz is running so perfectly, I don't have any excuse to swap it out.

I'm still running them and I'm abusing them at Autox with grippy tires regularly. Note that only 2004 xA/xB arms are the same dimensions.

@@ErikSeastead Thanks for the reply. Did you order these through a specific vendor?

Yup, link in the description​@@scotched9682

@@ErikSeastead Cool. I still don't know if I want to go this route or just deal with my original FLCAs and go with Superpro bushings. The ball joint quality on aftermarket is what worries me the most.

If I were doing this job today I'd just replace the bushings in my control arm. At the time I sort of needed to do the job quickly.

That doesn't make any sense, imo. The tie rods were fine and they're very easy to get to when they do need to be replaced. 🤷‍♀️

SSM! Wow is it swapped or are you just running hoosiers? None actually, I forgot my helmet and the loaners are all LSU helmets.

@ErikSeastead 2zz swapped with 245 wide Hoosiers on the corners. LSU Helmets? What state is AX event in?

Virginia! Haha

I don't think it's going to eat the cats unless it's already burning oil, but it's up to you. My engine has been doing quite well with just regular oil changes, even with the stock header.

Thank you so much. I hope to do a review of my 2000 VFR800 next, and maybe even do a video talking about the first to second bike transition, and everything I learned.

Do you mean which option (Koni vs other brands?) or making sure I got the right shock that fits an MR2 Spyder? These Konis come highly recommend by people that I talked to who do autocross (E Street was won last year by Bartek driving an NB Miata with Koni yellow shocks). I used Tirerack.com to order these and you will put the year make and model into the website.

@@ErikSeastead I mean, how did you determine that the Koni inserts that you chose were the right ones for your car? How did you determine that they would fit so snugly inside the strut tube?

I used Tirerack.com to order these and you will put the year make and model of the car into the website. Then you select Koni sport (yellow) shocks and it'll make sure they're the right ones for you.

Can't believe I didn't mention it anywhere. 225/50R15 RE71RS

Youre pulling some crazy g's mate. Its so fucked that we dont have this type of autocross in The Netherlands. I would definitly race my spyder aswell

@@ErikSeastead what Suspension set up are you running? I have s3 coilovers 6/9 spring rates and white line front and rear sway bars. Front sway bar on stiff setting and rear sway bar on the softest setting. currently have Toyo proxes R1R 225 rear and 195 front. The Toyos work pretty good, but I feel like there’s probably better options for autocross. I’ll probably get the re71 or advan A052 next

I am in Street E, so I've done almost everything I'm allowed. Koni yellow inserts with stock springs, a front swaybar, toyota 3 dot camber bolts in the front, an addco front swaybar, HKS axle-back, 225 square RE71RS on stock wheels, a stock alignment, and of course the hard dog double diagonal rollbar. I have a hardtop but its about 50 lbs so I take it off for autox. For track I'd leave it on, I think it probably is worth for aero purposes but I haven't tested that yet. You sound like youve got a really stiff setup! That's probably best for track. I find that autox parking lots are awful so it can be nice to have a softer ride so that you can keep the tires on the ground. But, I would definitely get some stiffer springs if I could. I drove a K swap (check out my earlier videos) with I believe 4k/6k BC BR and front and rear addco swaybars and it handled pretty amazingly. Its probably sprung sort of similar to yours laterally since the addco bars are a bit bigger than the whitelines. I'm not a huge fan of the damping of coilovers compared to the koni's but the spring rate is a big advantage in terms of limiting body roll and getting that snappy turn in.

No chassis bracing?

Thank you! Most people still don't use that technique even after I made this video but I think it's very helpful! I have more videos in a playlist and I actually made a channel called East Prime with even more videos.

@ErikSeastead I've been watching them , this has been so valuable as I can't do L jumps every where else I've worked around it , but this place eluded Me I never knew about holding down on analogue in middle I can clear it now it looks a little funny as I stop mid air while I get left stick in place but it gets me over there 😀

Haha I tried to convince my mans to come out in the CL but he's so busy 🤷‍♀️

Yes absolutely. Spark is only one element of combustion

Haha I'm glad these videos provided you some edutainment

@@ErikSeastead ok so I just ran the vin. Seller said 97, vin says it’s 98. The first (thank god) year they dropped the captive rotor situation. I was thinking about lighting a match on it

Haha yeah you can do a 98 hub swap on the 97s, but they're hard to find nowadays.

Yes. And we only got it in the US for one year.

It's a special camera with two lenses, it uses software to stitch out the selfie stick that it's attached to.

Bro turned on the 3rd person camera

I like being alive. At the very end I slowed way down because I saw a Prime van with its reverse lights on. It didn't back into the road but it doesn't make sense to assume other people will do the right thing.

There was a 15 minute uncut version but it's just a lot of steady state cruising so I trimmed that stuff a bit and posted this.

What color? White smoke is coolant. Blue smoke is oil. If it's opaque white smoke you may have a coolant seal leak... Which would need a rebuild. Hopefully your motor is alright.

@@ErikSeastead Blue and some black I bought it motor not starting But with time it is working After that has blue smoke I didn't drive tell now Cuz has clutch is broken

Could have flooded. Black could be that it's rich. If the chamber was full of gas then it might run dark. Especially if it was premixed you'd get some blue as well from the oil.

@@ErikSeastead Thanks for the info That helps I think motor is good I will repair the clutch Can you help me For more advice About witch oil and gasoline And sorry about my English Thank you so much 🙂

youre supposed to use "premium" (91 octane in the US) I ordered bulk idemitsu rotary oil. You need to get an oil that will burn like its supposed to. Add 1 oz into the gas when you fill up for every gallon. You can then fill regular engine with whatever synthetic if you install a SOHN Adapter.

LOL

Thank you for the kind words. More videos are on my newer channel East Prime if you haven't seen them. Really appreciate your comment ❤️

Newer Falkens. But earlier in the season I was winning anyway. Ron has a lot of experience driving but most of it was in a 911 that wasn't very competitive. A few events ago he got the car all sorted out and started killing it.

We can't switch drivers unfortunately, although I might have a codriver for some events this coming year. If you haven't been following the channel I often am finishing first or second in class... This event was just a very bad time

ahhh understood! keep pushing for firstyou got this@@ErikSeastead

at 10:38 you can see the return tube end fitting is attached to the top hole near the pinion shaft. i think that answers your question?

No real indication of heat soak since every run showed the same power. Though it did lose 1 ftlb on each run. But I think aiming the fan at the front mounted radiator is acceptable.