Yes, I designed it that way, have you seen the finished product, I like the look. Also it makes it a bit easier to make, 90 degree corners are not always easy to produce.

I have never worked with German Silver but to determine if it would substitute check the melting point of german silver, and in this case the melting temp of sterling silver, sterling silver would need to have a lower melting temp which it does ( I just checked ), so I believe it would work. PS I don't think you need flux.

@@patcahillmetalworks322 Thank you very much, really. Melting point of german silver is really high, higher than silver, brass or copper. German silver is very common for us in Southamerica. I only wonder if oxidation of german silver (by heating) could make that silver does not stick apropiately to the base. I could see, in copper, it doesn´t happen. :) Otherwise, I will do it on copper. Hope I can reach such a beautiful piece as de one you showed us in this video (or close). Thank you very much . Your pieces are really beautiful.

For the edges you can do that after the Anticlastic forming. For hammering the whole piece I would do that first, anneal then proceed to forming.

@@patcahillmetalworks322 Great - thank you!

That is a Knew Concepts Jeweler's Saw Frame there are many available in many sizes.

@@patcahillmetalworks322 ok, thank you :) But I think you're talking about the red one. I was wondering about the other one. It seems like you slide the blade inside holes, instead of like mine between two plates. But maybe I'm not seeing right. And thank you for your videos, they are really helpful!

Oh, ok well I have three saws the one you are asking about is a old one I found at a yard sale so I can't say where you can find it. @@Tsukikao

@@patcahillmetalworks322 ok, thank you anyway :)

I got them while taking a workshop with Michael Good on Anticlastic Forming (at a reduced package deal as part of the workshop) I believe that you can get them at www.fretzdesign.com/ but they are not cheap.

Glad you liked it!

I didn't I bought it that way.

No that can not be true even if you are casting the wire I don't think that you would need 2x the weight, but I would not suggest casting it. Just buy sterling silver round wire. Determine in the length needed for a plain bangle at 6cm internal diameter the weight will be determined by the gauge of the wire used, then add about 2.5 to 5% more for cutting and filing the ends. I hope that helps

Good questions. Firescale is covered up by the repeated heating, pickling and brass brushing leaving a thin layer of fine silver. Yes you can use Argentium and actually get away with fewer heating pickling cycles.

I am not sure I understand your question, YIKES It would be very painful to solder a bangle while the person was wearing it, again I must not understand your question. Wait it just occurred to me that one can probably do this if they have a laser welder, but I have no experience with laser welders, would love to have one but alas I don't have the funds.

It is quite simple: You want to determine the length of silver wire needed for your bangle. 1. First determined the size you need by measuring the distance from your first knuckle (pinky finger) to your knuckle on your index finger, for me it is 3 inches. 2. The formula needed is: Length of silver wire = the size (3 inches for me) plus the thickness of the wire (0.1 inch for 10 gauge sterling silver wire) times Pi ~3.14. 3. So length of wire needed is (3 +0.1) X 3.14 or 9.734 inches. I might of confused you by modifying this a slight bit because if you want a hammered bangle the hammering will increase the size a bit so I used ~9.5 inches instead of 9.732 inches and as I hammer I keep checking the internal diameter to make sure that it is stretches to 3 inches. I hope that helps.

@@patcahillmetalworks322 thanks ☺️

5 to 6 times or until when you only see milkly white surface then just one more time for good luck.

I use 10 gauge round wire.

I believe 20ga is recommended for this ring in the book Professional Goldsmithing by Alan Revere

I don't know about use without the regulator you probably can but it would be best to contact the maker. Applying the gold foil on a finished cuff is tricky the whole surface needs to be at the proper temp and a small kiln like the beehive probably would not be able to do it.

I believe it is 18 gauge

​@@patcahillmetalworks322Thank you! now I think you said it but my brain used to mm ignored it😂

20 gauge, hardness doesn't really matter as long as it is soft enough to take the curves without springing back. In the end you can harden the ear-wires by tumbling in stainless shot for at least 4 hours.