wax? you'll need to remove any material that's not the raw metal, acetone cleaning and sanding your area to work on should create a nice clean base to work with

Can you please let me know what light bulbs have you used? I have a polyconcept 541.815 and the E10 6v led bulbs don't work? I wish that I had a manual

Fun fact: The lower guide-piece on the underside of the MN's bolt is responsible for most of the design's well-known spongy and sticky bolt action problems.

Excellent video. I can't wait to apply your excellent mods. Thnx, Greg

Will flex seal have the same result?

Wow thank you so much,your video is the only one that covers this problem with this old warhorse,it's like a new rifle I reload down also,saves this old shoulder.

How low can you go with powder charge using PPU 8mm208 grain bullets? I put a slight bend im the exstractor and it stays in place when removing bolt,still alittle stiff.Any more sugestions? Great video

Interesting. 👍🏽

I just purchased a 9M-11 (newer version of yhe CR-11) and it functions as designed. But a couple of bulbs are not working. My intention is to add a 3.5mm mp3 audio connection so I can play my Liberty Jersey farm Jukebox through the Spirit of St Louis table top Jukebox. Also i plan on adding LED's that flash to the beat of music . I cannot find a schematic for the 9M-11 or CR-11. I need this to connect the mp3 input . Looking for help on this one Thanks in advance. The LJJF Jukebox is really cool. I can select MP3 music files using smart devices..(cell, tablet or laptop) Graphic looks like a jukebox wall unit Ill attach a picture. Also, this unitcan be installed in a real Jukebox that's wired for a remote wall box.

I put a new sheet of thin aluminum over my existing fiberglass roof and used rivets and sikaflex to seal it but the sika flex didn't bond well to the aluminum and is coming off easy. Maybe cause it was all polished? so maybe I'll try sanding it before I apply it.

Think you used the tool wrong. Normaly there are the middle 2 notches. The shallow 75 shoud touch the pin, the deeper 95 should not touch the pin. So the second from the front(75) where the screwdriver is should touch the 3rd should not. Sorry for my english, i am not a nativ speaker😂

People this is a military rifle not a civilian rifle it's not supposed to be pretty it's supposed to be perfect just supposed to work every time daaaaaaaa

Thank you so much Al! This solved cracking problem on fiberglass to steel of my truck's wheelwell that I've tried to fix for a couple of years now. This summer I'll try once more using your method. I'm convinced it works. 😊

I wonder if you might be able to show the AC transformer connections to the circuit board? I have one of these but the AC connections have been broke off and I do not know where to reconnect them, Thanks, Meric.

Would like to email pictures of a gas tank I'm currently building about to bond some aluminum, going in a 23 t bucket

Why are you using type 2 when you want to ad layers?

The biggest issue with Mosins is that the main bolt and magazine mechanisms were really never updated for the entire life of the rifle from 1891-1950~ The original 1891 rifle was decent for its time, but compare it to the Mauser 1891, Mannlicher 1888/90, Lebel 1886, Lee-Metford, Krag-jorgensen, Arisaka, etc - all those designs were changed and updated multiple times over the next 50 years. The Mosin saw only minor changes to peripheral parts of the gun.

Could you use 6volt leds instead of light bulbs?

Hey if any one seeing this and you don't like them. Send them to me i will give them a loving home.

inspiring video. why aren’t there more automatics I wonder ? in my 60s with trigger finger on the left hand so genuinely interested in the Hondamatic option.

I'd like a dollar for everyone who claims sticky bolts are caused by cosmoline. Hilarious. It's the very design of the rifle that is flawed. Gives you no leverage over the camming surfaces. 🤠

These guns were being cranked out of Soviet factories as quickly as possible and QC was hit or miss.

Very nice video thank you,

Definitely a flame thrower

I have fixed many sticky bolt Mosins… ones with hard to extract fired brass/steel. Chuck up a piece of cleaning rod with a 12 gauge brush in a drill and dip it in thinner and work the chamber thoroughly.. then wrap 800 grit around brush and quickly polish the chamber. Worked every time(6 times) with sticky extraction

This might be a dump question, but instead of jb-weld can I use liquid nail?

Good tips.

I was really happy to run across this video! I have an old Mosin-Nagant that is sometimes hard to open the bolt after firing it. This video gives me some pointers and some ideas to check out! I was afraid that maybe there was a head-spacing issue but this video now steers me in another direction and offers some hope of a cure. :^) Thank you for posting!! These are sure fun guns to shoot, tough and pretty fool-proof, too!

Where are you located??

Nice content, no nonsense format, no annoying background music…well done!

good and useful info - thank you. Not sure if this guy is having problems breathing but the gasping and rasping made me feel short of breath.

The "Hydrogen Peroxide" used as a catalyst is bound to have a "bubbleing" effect on most metals.

The Russians use to dip their ammo in lacquer. And the grease used to pack it in has whale blubber in. I found that if you disassemble it, put the bolt parts and the rifle in an oven at 300 degrees, the order is bad, yet the generations of grease will melt. After you've done it the first time swab it out, use acetone to remove more, and put it back in the oven. Let it set for another 15-20 minutes. Remove it, scrub the chamber out real good and use more acetone until patches are clear. Then look to see if there's any roughness or burrs, stone them down, polish it. Then use a lite coat of TRF pastes or Moly lub. Reheat it again until it all melted, wipe off access and you wound have have more stickiness

I do like those old Mosins.

Nice video thank you for sharing brother 🇺🇸

A hair trigger with wool gloves on during an icy cold deer season can cause the smoke pole to go off before you're ready. Yes, it happened to me once and cost me a doe. Another time I tried to squeeze the set trigger without moving my trigger finger up to the firing trigger. It cost me another doe. I stopped using the set trigger and was eight for eight on deer. I now have two 1873 Springfield infantry rifles I shoot with black powder loads. They both are very good shooters. Oh, Once I had my Trapdoor slung over my shoulder and a big doe jumped up 5 feet in front of me. Until I got the dang rifle off of my shoulder the doe was gone. Guess who doesn't use a rifle sling any longer, and I harvested several deer because of it. One of my two trapdoors is a Bannerman, and it shoots a tad better group than my original model 1873 inside 100 yards. The bannerman barrel shines like a mirror and I do not think it saw much shooting. Most of the deer I shoot are inside 30 yards anyway because I hunt in the thickest brush I can find. Good Video Partner!!!!!!!

Came across the video in hopes of some help. I purchased one being told all worked but that was not the case. Cassette played like in fast forward which I found the pinch roller fell off. Got it back together but there is something off as to when I eject the tape it pops the rubber pinch roller wheel off like it’s not swinging out of the way like it should, it has to do with the spring that is below it I’m guessing. If you have one apart anyway to get a picture of it if possible to see what is off on mine to compare. Also wondering if it’s possible to get a new pinch roller and arm in case the one I have is tweaked etc. please let me know as the help would be hugely appreciated. Also let me know if photos or video would help if i didn’t describe it good enough I can send an email etc. Again any help would be amazing

Have you done a video on that tumble upgrade?

This is great! Goin to do a boat conversion on an aluminum boat. Hoping to do some foam/glass work. Good to know I could get a bond direct to hull if needed. Thanks for video!

Thanks for the helpful video. Just so you know, the little dot on the screws you removed denotes them as "Japanese Industrial Standard." Those are Not Philips head screws. And that's why those, and the screws on the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir, on virtually every bike are stripped.

Al: I have a 2012 Ural Yamal I purchased second-hand from GoAz Motorcycles in Arizona in 2015. About 6 years ago I removed the California garbage, had the airbox fixed at a machine shop and reconnected the fuel lines. I had heard about possible rejetting complications, but it fired up, idled and ran OK getting up to 65-67 MPH. This Spring it would not idle or warm up and would die. Took the carbs to a local carb specialist -- he disassembled and cleaned them well and noted the jet sizes as 122, 65 and 40. Have not reinstalled them yet and will take them back to get the jet sizes you mentioned: 125, 45 and 42 installed. Thanks for the video. I have contacted Ural USA to confirm the necessary rejetting that when switching from the California specs

Do you know or could you test the output voltage on the transformer? I am trying to replace the transformer for my friend as they had a surge at their apartment which blew the 120 transformer. There is no information on it so I don't know if it is 12 or 24V or if it is AC or DC. Obviously I'm unable to use a meter because mine is blown and there is no output. Would appreciate some help, thanks!

Scuffing the surface is auto body 101. If the metal (whether aluminum OR steel) is too smooth, even paint won't stick well. Everything has to be scuffed and cleaned with a solvent

It won't never shift?

can you make a video explaining that hondamatic transmission? you foreshadowed it in the review.

curious why you chose to use polyester resin rather than epoxy, given that JB Weld is an epoxy-based product

I own two of these units that both work fine including the lights and tape players but honestly I don’t use them for anything but displays in my man cave. I watched your video hoping the front plastic display would be removable with tabs or something as one of my units the glue is failing and I wanted to get to the song selection panels to re-glue but it looks like I would have to strip the whole unit down in order to do this which I am not willing to do at this time. Good info however if I need to replace the lights one day. Wonder if it’s possible to rig led lights instead if needed? Last thing is I would have upgraded the speaker while I had the unit disassembled. Good video and thanks.

Do you have parts for a 1996 that has a power button

Where did you get the foam? Home Depot?

like the way you didn't use gobs of jb-weld, often people use too much thinking more is stronger but its actually weaker, jb-weld is awesome epoxy, used it about 10 years ago to make repairs on my jon boat and its still holding up fine