01 Create rocket body
2:20
2 жыл бұрын
Open Kiri-Moto in your browser
0:58
2 жыл бұрын
Open Kiri-Moto in your browser
0:46
2 жыл бұрын
0602 Install Y motor and belt
1:52
2 жыл бұрын
1501 My first print
3:59
2 жыл бұрын
1401 Set Z Offset
3:08
2 жыл бұрын
1307 Check Bed Heating
1:30
2 жыл бұрын
1306 Check Extruder Motor
0:53
2 жыл бұрын
1305 Test Hot End Functionality
1:56
1304 Check Homing and Bed Leveling
2:41
1302 Tighteen Y Belt
0:51
2 жыл бұрын
1301 Tighteen X Belt
1:01
2 жыл бұрын
1204 Attach Back
5:19
2 жыл бұрын
1203 Attach Top Side
2:08
2 жыл бұрын
1202 Attach Front Side
1:30
2 жыл бұрын
1202 Mount LCD to Front Side
3:46
2 жыл бұрын
1101 Add Z-Motor to Frame
8:12
2 жыл бұрын
1201 Insert Carrying Braces
2:57
2 жыл бұрын
1002 Connect X axis to processor
5:37
1001 Attach X-Axis to Frame
4:27
2 жыл бұрын
0901 Install X-Axis Harness
6:55
2 жыл бұрын
0902 Attach and Connect Extruder
3:20
0802 Mount Idler
2:23
2 жыл бұрын
0804 Add Z-Axis Linear Bearings
3:57
0803 Attach Y belt
4:16
2 жыл бұрын
Пікірлер
@user-pz1qt6eb9t
@user-pz1qt6eb9t Ай бұрын
The video is very helpful. Thank-you!
@mario2jz
@mario2jz 2 ай бұрын
Im going insane mine first would scratch so I tried adjusting and now it won’t go lower, i even disabled steppers
@Tai_Customs_3D
@Tai_Customs_3D 2 ай бұрын
what if the z says -179 instead of 0 when you M114 Z?
@batwollen6931
@batwollen6931 3 ай бұрын
"Promo sm" 💔
@anio6865
@anio6865 3 ай бұрын
I also completely compressed that locking thing. How did you get it up so easily ? Did you turn the pin upside down and push it out from the other side ?
@felese863
@felese863 8 ай бұрын
Thank you man, you are my hero
@bogeyman366
@bogeyman366 9 ай бұрын
had 1....... i wouldnt get another one if they gave it to me free........this is junk................................not woth spening the time to build it... its shit.
@WiredWordNews
@WiredWordNews 11 ай бұрын
This is the best video regarding the Z offset and Gcode. You are a champion
@J5HPO-pq5jh
@J5HPO-pq5jh 11 ай бұрын
thankyou
@melindabeck9016
@melindabeck9016 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the help. I have a Jellybox and love it - when it works well. This was very helpful.
@scottydntno
@scottydntno Жыл бұрын
mine went positive 🤦‍♂
@hayden3408
@hayden3408 Жыл бұрын
After I calculate Z offset and set it. The test print crashes into the side of the bed, as it’s too low once it starts. Driving me bananas
@bogeyman366
@bogeyman366 Жыл бұрын
the customer support from this company is a joke. i just got 1... getting help is a joke i got this 3d printer so i can have some fun with my kids and get them off the video games and tablets..... these printers arent worth $1.00//////////////////// ----------------------- just get a prusa or a qidi 3d printer they always work amazing
@hudsoneta
@hudsoneta 2 жыл бұрын
THANKS A LOT!
@wkduff
@wkduff 2 жыл бұрын
does not work, M114 to see the difference travels is still 0, WTF
@3dtexan890
@3dtexan890 2 жыл бұрын
MY ENDER SAYs No EEPROM.
@pr1sm55
@pr1sm55 2 жыл бұрын
Just want to say this is by far the most reliable way to get it done right every single time. Using this method with a BTT Octopus Pro/Octoprint on a CR10 Max and it gets it absolutely right every time I use this method. Perfect first layers all the time. Great How To!
@jerrypatterson55
@jerrypatterson55 2 жыл бұрын
math is alittle off its not 1.4 its 1.6 lol
@taffy1979
@taffy1979 2 жыл бұрын
Hey I hope people are still looking at this video as I need a little help please my maths is way out there. So I’ve followed instructions and I’m coming up with x50 y50 z0.50 e 0.00 count x 4000 y4000 z200 I’m not sure if I’ve done something wrong please if any one can help I’m all ready to put this printer in the tip lol
@angrygreek1985
@angrygreek1985 2 жыл бұрын
This doesn't work. Even after setting the Z to 10 I can't move it down.
@Awesome_O_2000
@Awesome_O_2000 Жыл бұрын
Use m211 s0 to remove Software Endstops
@szumster
@szumster 3 жыл бұрын
hi, in my case there is no reaction after M851 Z-0.7 Z moved -0.3mm how to fix it ?
@Ryuuken24
@Ryuuken24 2 жыл бұрын
M851 Z-0.7, M500
@macvideoworld
@macvideoworld 3 жыл бұрын
Tbe best video I saw on z offset!
@3DArtDesign11
@3DArtDesign11 3 жыл бұрын
TOP Super erklärt!!! Vielen Dank!
@ShadowsDML
@ShadowsDML 3 жыл бұрын
Does not work, the printer still won't move down after G29
@imade3d713
@imade3d713 3 жыл бұрын
Sorry, I did not see your post earlier. Would you, please, describe your problem to email: [email protected] ? Thanks.
@californianbill
@californianbill 3 жыл бұрын
using m211 S0 is what I use
@PFab
@PFab 3 жыл бұрын
I wonder what would happen if you took a pin and hammered it flatter to release the connectors. That would give you a wider footprint and thinner gap to force in the connectors.
@clunette
@clunette 4 жыл бұрын
No help at all!
@jamesmarks4451
@jamesmarks4451 4 жыл бұрын
good job
@sanzzi-b5d
@sanzzi-b5d 4 жыл бұрын
This is the best solution ever Thank you
@ReadZead
@ReadZead 4 жыл бұрын
2:22 why 1.4 offset if the answear to that math problem is 1.6?
@nyeagley
@nyeagley 4 жыл бұрын
ReadZead I think what he is saying is.. Since the printer thinks 10 is absolute zero after tricking it. He had to move the Z axis in the negative direction. Keep in mind that what is left on the Z axis is 8.5 when you subtract 10-8.5=1.5. The 1.5 is being moved in the -direction on the Z axis. This means this number is actually infact negative. problem really should be this 10-Z=8.5 where Z=-1.5 then he wants you to add .1 for the thickness of the paper. So that means Z0ffset=-1.5+.1 Zoffset= -1.4. hope this helps. Correct math is Zoffset= 8.5-10+.1
@ReadZead
@ReadZead 4 жыл бұрын
@@nyeagley okay, so you're saying he just had the first two flipped around? If so now it makes more sense
@JohnMeacham
@JohnMeacham 4 жыл бұрын
What is that lightbar on the end of your hot end? Looks nice.
@abeedcactus3749
@abeedcactus3749 4 жыл бұрын
Thank you very much, it helped me
@romainlelong8693
@romainlelong8693 4 жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot ! I was fighting it without knowing where to unlock the pins... you saved my day !
@Anyone700
@Anyone700 5 жыл бұрын
Please tag this "without LCD" "LCD" "without" "no screen" "no" "screen" "calibrate z probe with gcode" it will help people find this easier. Ex. I gave up my lcd screen for TMC 2130's and do not feel like adding it back, so I needed to calibrate BLTouch without LCD
@imade3d713
@imade3d713 5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the suggestion. This video is long superseded with simpler methods (live Z adjustment for the win), but this is apparently still useful for some use cases :-) Tags are added now.
@vladimirrusnak2170
@vladimirrusnak2170 5 жыл бұрын
Hello. What is the exact base of the connector? I have a smaller version at home and I look for the next version of the connector.
5 жыл бұрын
Very informative, thanks!
@bobbp80
@bobbp80 5 жыл бұрын
Kdyby to bylo v cestine,tak by to bylo lepsi😉
@TheCarvedBlock
@TheCarvedBlock 3 жыл бұрын
:-) S tím se nedá než souhlasit.
@mollyk1413
@mollyk1413 5 жыл бұрын
I wish you would make it so people can see what you are doing in the video. It makes it hard to follow along when there are no visuals.
@rolandtruter6219
@rolandtruter6219 5 жыл бұрын
HI I am getting a value after manually lifting it with the software of 10.20? how do I do this with the calculation? is it correct if I do this: (10 - 10.20 = -0.2) + 0.1 = -0.1
@summerha8170
@summerha8170 5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the turtorial, it is very helpful~~ I saw there are difference of Z value When I execute command M114 : X:16.00Y:24.70Z:24.90E:0.00 Count X: 16.00Y:24.70Z:29.11 Do I need to calibate it?
@RayDoeksen
@RayDoeksen 6 жыл бұрын
Thumbs up for A.S.S.
@mylandatruong8069
@mylandatruong8069 6 жыл бұрын
great video ! comes in handy, going to try this immediatly
@moonswhite1409
@moonswhite1409 6 жыл бұрын
I faced same problem thank you very helpful..
@awaale1000
@awaale1000 6 жыл бұрын
thank you so much was having such a bad time with my printer this helped
@samuelcomplex
@samuelcomplex 7 жыл бұрын
You forgot to link the videos in the description.
@imade3d713
@imade3d713 7 жыл бұрын
Links to part two and part three are in the description now, thanks!
@printervi2en680
@printervi2en680 7 жыл бұрын
Thank you! Very good video! Understandable, super! ( I am sorry, I do not speak English ).
@Felix.Garcia
@Felix.Garcia 7 жыл бұрын
Hello, Do you know off top of your head what settings needs changed to allow Z to move down after i change Z to 10? I confirm with M114 that my Z is 10... but when i send command to lower .1 nothing happens. Im running latest Marling 1.1.1
@gabrielvoss6251
@gabrielvoss6251 7 жыл бұрын
does it really print at 20 microns?
@imade3d713
@imade3d713 7 жыл бұрын
ANNOUNCEMENT. THERE IS A NEW VERSION of this video that explains much better what needs to be done, AND you do not need a computer! (Three videos in fact). kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kNiZlZN9vtjVnJc.html
@imade3d713
@imade3d713 7 жыл бұрын
Specifically 1st layer tweaking video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b6l-ppaVrNHHm2Q.html
@danielthrana
@danielthrana 7 жыл бұрын
Im not able to move z axis closer to the hotend after sending G92 Z10, why is that? Great tutorial!
@Promocable
@Promocable 7 жыл бұрын
I think you must disable the software endstop
@imade3d713
@imade3d713 7 жыл бұрын
Hi Daniel. 1. This procedure is fine, but we have since revised it. For most people, a simple experimental approach based on observing the 1st layer as it's printing is much faster AND easier AND you don't need a computer. (See updated links in the description to see a turorial.) 2. What printer/ firmware version/ etc are you using? Some versions of Marlin had a bug involving G92 on Z, so maybe try upgrading your firmware. 3. github.com/IMADE3D/Marlin/releases has latest JellyBOX firmware
@ynzeselders4184
@ynzeselders4184 7 жыл бұрын
Promocable Thanks. This worked for me
@Awesome_O_2000
@Awesome_O_2000 Жыл бұрын
Use m211 s0 to remove Software Endstops
@MasonAlston22
@MasonAlston22 7 жыл бұрын
where is tge link for the diagram
@imade3d713
@imade3d713 7 жыл бұрын
All additional documents and documentation available at www.imade3d.com/support/ Thanks for the note @moist yngstr! (I'll put the link in the description as well.)