Has it ever happened to you that the printer randomly stops climbing during the print? like for several layers continuosly and at random points? Because it is a sort of z wobble but less regular and with the motors completely dead at least for 10-15 layers before returning to spin (and they don't most of the time)

So much work for an average printer

Nice work bud. Im a machinist too. I'm very strict on my tolerances so if anything is out by .0005 it's getting adjusted. Lol

Ive been running this printer non stop for 3 years with 10-15k + hours and have just started to experience this issue. Replaced and tightened belts/rollers and all bolts. Countless slicer adjustments and i still cant get rid of wobble. Will be trying this fix next, running out of options.

4:02

Have you smeared glue on the printer?

Great video, all that was missing (for me) was some before and after shots of your prints.

These nuts 4:02

Спасибо, очень хорошее видео поможет думаю многим.

Thanks for the video. I am wondering how many workhours did this take you...

Hola. Donde puedo conseguir stl para el reloj comparador?? Un saludo

Buenas. Buen video. Donde has conseguido los carros eje z de metal?? Un saludo

Hello, just new with this product. As I turned on my 3d printer, the bed does not move and error appears telling printer halted kill() called. I tried to press confirm but the next page has no option icon and reset option. What shall I do Sir?

Thanks for the good video and the explaination. Have the same problem and trying to get rid of it... also I think the z-motor mounts on this printer are badly desinged and the motors are always tilted.

what firmware is that on your printer?

My screen menu is very different to yours. Why?

I think I am getting Z-banding, but even when I print a flat object, the first layer has banding on the surface. That's only the first layer. Can it still be Z-whopping causing the print head issue?

Could you make a guide for Ultimaker Cura? Since simplfy 3D cost 150 dollars.

FINALLY, a useful video on KZfaq !!! Your troubleshooting skills are on the next level. I have several printers that exhibit the same symptom to varying degrees. I am looking forward to tuning this away. Thank You, Thank You

Simplyfi3d is it only a paid version.. ? 150 $ is quite a lot :D

It's a pretty good machine. Some things are lacking. To be honest I'd just buy a Prusa for $300 more.

Would you recommend this program over cura?

I need to get me one of these indicators! For now I s'pose I can print some tests and see how bad my own is.

I was the 1,000th like 🎉 where my prize at 😂

what brand name of dial indicator did you purchase, and where from?

Great video, excellent diagnosis and explanation on how to fix the issue, 2 likes ;)

Wich program you yoused to pragram?

Great video! not only for solving the issue but because for the deep analysis in order to find a root cause.

Hi, do you use only one z-endstop?

Thank you very much for this video. I have had athe X1 v.4 for a few weeks now, and it's a great printer, but I need to adjust this as I'm having the same issue. Not so big of a deal at first, but when I have seen what this machine is capable of, I want to tune it :D

Great videos!

Are you using the default firmware or you updated to a different one?

this is super helpful, really appreciate your insight and your experience shows

Nearly turned the video off at the beginning as you just sprinted through the profile settings without explaining what they were but glad I continued to watch it as that was really useful. Will definitely be trying that out tomorrow. Thank you, liked and subbed 👍

I subscribed, I like how you solve problems, hope you upload something interesting soon

Excellent work! will be calibrating in a similar manner. A guy named sunshine also makes a 3d printed compliant dial gauge!

Thank you Mitchell for this video. If I may add, there is something critical that needs to be followed I think. For any shaft configuration, we need to follow the 2 points fixed and 1 point flexible rule, most common example are the drive shafs on car or trucks. If you lock the shaft at 3 places, you will overconstraint the system, I think the reason why you don't see any wobble, is because where you are measuring, you are actually measuring on a fixed part, the screw migh be bending, below the gantry. I have tried what you propose, but I have left the flexible coupling. Both ends are fixed, and what I noticed, as soon as the dial would shift, it was an indication the screw was not correctly aligned. I adjusted both ends, until there was no shift or compensation from the coupler, and was able to get good print. Also, what I noticed, I have 2 printer, but one has motor coupler exaclty like yours, and the other one has the flexible ones. the ones you have are called fix, and I think those are best. my printer with motor flexible motor, is a bad idea to use, because the shaft will not have a perfect run out, simply because it uses 2 set screws to hold in place. The fixed coupler seem to do a much better job, even for adjustement. I will change mine soon.

Excellent information. My only suggestion is call a nut a nut and call a bolt a bolt. 👍🏼

Subscribed, great video. Very thoughtful approach to rendering the issue. Thank you for sharing!

im afraid to try this..ive seen vids where they have those 2 screws holding motor in place by using zip ties inside because there is no thread material because extrusion is hollow wonder if they fixed that

I wish you could come to my house and do this..lol

If you were using Cura you'd be able to alter the print speed at regular intervals automatically in the resulting gcode when the model is sliced. The same for temps. Relieves you from having to babysit the printer to do it manually.

Awesome video! I also have the sidewinder X1 and was wondering if you're able to share the printing profile you have created?

I have put the files for the side supports in the description if. Enjoy.

Hey Cameron, I loved the systemic approach to the analysis. How did you remove the plastic spacer blocks? It is not obvious

Hi, great video, i am using Cura and was satisfied till now with this slicer, but now something strange happens, when i take the same settings that you did, 1 wall count, no infill, brim support.. etc... cura only sets different printing predictions till 30mm/s... if i go higher... even to 100mm/s, the predicted time wont change... and more frustrating.. it will even print only with 30mm/s.. regardless of what i configure... do you have an idea where these restriction might come from ? Thank you in advance!

could you share the dxf or dwg file of your brackets ?

Thanks.

so not gambling on this printer yet