Plus, I don't want to take the risk buying an rf converter.

The device I was using has an option to change the output resolution to suit 4:3 screens. This does result in a clipping of the edges on any programs you watch, though the interface appears fine and suitably resized.

@@JCTsFascinatingHobbies which device were you using?

@@user-zw8du6ru2c A 'Huawei DN360T', it comes with a SCART connector as well as a HDMI connector. In the UK, these boxes were branded as a 'BT Youview', however other broadband suppliers would badge them up with their specific branding.

I've dropped a few things on my feet over the years, you would think I would've learned by now!!

I replaced mine with a cut out piece from a roll I found on Amazon. It was not too expensive. Secured it using a suitable glue.

A comprehensive socket set is usually enough for basic service tasks. I have a large collection of tools, acquired throughout the years so do have some more specific tools for specific purposes. For example, a spring compressor set, valve spring compressors, ball joint separator….however, day to day stuff…..a good set of spanners, sockets and screwdrivers will be more than enough.

Thank you!

It should, the remainder is sat in the engine block. There is an engine block drain plug fitted. In my experience, because I change the coolant every couple of years...there isn't usually any need to drain the block. To work around this, you can fill the system with water, run the car so the thermostat opens and the fans come on. Let it cool for 30 minutes, then drain the radiator. Repeat this until you have clear water coming from the radiator. At this point you can add your antifreeze and complete the job.

@@JCTsFascinatingHobbies brilliant thank you :)

@@JamesE707 yes!!! That’s the one 😂

Hello, in the end I used a Matsushita motor that was slightly newer. The Aiwa motor actually has an outer casing, and inside is the matsushita motor with onboard motor controller. I searched eBay for ‘matsushita 16v dc motor’ and found a number of results. The only down side is I cannot use the original Aiwa motor body, so run the motor with no outer body, just the Matsushita motor casing. Wiring, positive to positive, negative to negative as before. I removed the pulley from the original motor and pressed it onto the new motor. It works, you can fine tune the speed using the trimmer on the controller or the adjuster screw under the capstan flywheel.

@@JCTsFascinatingHobbies Thank you for the info, Please do you have the model number of Matsushita motor as there seem to be a few variations..

Check out Macrovision. It is more than possible to copy protect analogue recordings. Macrovision's legacy analog copy protection (ACP) works by implanting a series of excessive voltage pulses within the off-screen VBI lines of video. These pulses were included physically within pre-existing recordings on VHS and Betamax

Or, VHS to a Sony Beta machine and then back to VHS, to circumvent the macro vision encoding….apparently, early JVC decks such as the HR3300 piano key decks, are also unaffected by the macro vision protection.

Well, originally it would have had a rubber strip on the sled which the motor idler would grip against. There are two switches, one that detects movement in the sled, so, you push the tape and the motor starts trying to take in the sled. The second switches the load motor off and activates the main deck motor. Now, the rubber strip is long worn smooth. Rubber renew does not revive it now does a light sanding!!

I bought it used, it’s now with a friend. I have another full size VHS camera in the form of a Panasonic M40.

I found a pack of varying sizes of square belt, on eBay.

I do mention in the video that I’d rather use copper grease but had none available. Since filming, I’ve renewed the pads (these were here just to allow me to bleed the brakes) and lubricated with copper grease. I’m guessing you may have a link to a more suitable video where the process is carried out correctly. Let me know and I’ll post it in the description.

The trick, or so I found.....is to soak everything in the area with penetrating oil, once a day for at least seven days in advance. I used Plus-gas, however....I have recently discovered Innotec De-Block. It's a bit pricey but it works surprisingly well.

Thanks. Can you provide me with the link to your video? I can add this to the description and point people to see how the job is done, properly. Thanks in advance.

Any update on that link?