Interesting tid bit, thanks for sharing and watching! 😎👊

I'd say if you know how to troubleshoot it to avoid replacing it, go for it, but be prepared to replace it as it's probably on the way out... but maybe not too... feel free to update us on what did or didn't work for you 😄👊

I think you'd be hard pressed to find that deal again, trailer was bought just before this video was posted so over 5 years ago 😔

I'll be doing this exact same thing

@@marlongarner4847 Awesome! Glad you found it helpful! :)

Fast forward 😉

Awesome! thanks for the comment, glad to hear the video helped. I had the dryer 3 years, never had an issue with it once.

Sometimes the cost is worth the extra money, sometimes, not always. Do your due diligence in shopping, sometimes when you need it and they're the only ones who have it, that's your only option. However they do offer a 10% vet discount. I've also found good deals on ebay.

Thank you for sharing. This video highlights the fact I did not have the proper tools and what the result of that was.

Thank you :)

Thanks for the comment 😎👊

Thank you for the comment Gee 😉

Gee... Sorry, but the original 4-wire configuration was totally correct as wired, and it reflects the primary reason that the industry evolved from 3-wire to 4-wire for dryers and ovens. In today's homes, neutrals (whites) must remain isolated from grounds (greens or bare copper) at all locations other than at the first electrical panel, typically your main panel. That smaller white wire is actually electrically connected to the center terminal (neutral) up inside the dryer, so the original electrician was simply connecting the small white wire back onto itself, thus preventing it from inadvertently contacting a hot wire or the dryer cabinet. Connecting the green wire to the cabinet grounds the latter while still maintaining isolation between ground and neutral, in conformance with today's version of the Nationl Electrical Code. Contined use of the less desirable 3-wire plugs is a concession by the NEC to avoid having to rewire tens of millions of dryer and oven receptacles in older homes.

@@josephknapick5307 sorry but you sound good, but you don't know what your talking about. That white wire is a harness that grounds to every panel in the dryer. by unplugging it your just taking the ground off of one of the most important panels- the metal box itself. fortcollinshabitat.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC04216.jpg

No Gee... While you are correct that the white pigtail is indeed connected the the center (neutral) terminal, in a four-wire configuration connecting both the green wire and the white pigtail to the cabinet grounding screw violates the NEC. Ground and neutral are only permitted to be bonded together at the the "point of first disconnect", which is typically the main service panel in most homes. Downstream of that location, neutrals must be kept isolated from grounds. The NEC tolerates an exception to this rule for three-wire dryer and oven receptacles to avoid mass rewiring of homes that only have legacy three conductor 240 volt receptacles at these locations. Experienced electrical engineer here with a copy of the 2920 NEC Handbook on my coffee table. If you also have a copy I can send you "chapter and verse" references if you need them...

@@josephknapick5307 you obviously don't work on machine, or you would know that ground wire not only is bolted to the body throw-out the machine, so plugging it into itself is counter-intuitive. neutral and ground are always connected together. Those rules were being enforced until people realized that there paying all this money to change over there wall terminal and pigtail for no good reason at all. they were so hard up on making people change there terminals, Whirlpool even came out with a dryer that the 4 prong was built into the harness. That was wrong, but what ever makes an extra buck. So now the rule is in the book, but not being enforced, because it's a BS guideline .

Excellent tip, thank you for sharing Tom 😉👍