Here is a link to what is in the video: shop.rottweilerperformance.com/quick-flip-mirror-mounts-hindsight-kit/ Here is a link to our Arrow mirrors that probably sell about 100:1 to the one above: shop.rottweilerperformance.com/quick-flip-mirror-mount-kit-arrow-kit/ Hope this helps!

@@RottweilerPerformance thanks!!

Awesome! Hope it helped.

If TFT you mean the stock dash, we are not sure. It has very specific mounting points, so you would probably have to fabricate something. The bike will run without the dash, but you kind of don't want to do that. Hopefully we understood your question correctly.

@@RottweilerPerformance Thanks for the reply, you understood the question exactly. Definitely the redundant answer ive been getting of. I'll have to figure out my next step as I'm not a fabricator by nature XD. I've been looking for a headlight replacement that is cheap to replace if/when it breaks which is why i'm looking everywhere but at the most obvious spots (rally towers) I'm looking to take my 890 into a turkey run in September then probably a full blown enduro next spring - So I'm in the midst of bulletproofing, lightening and stiffening the bike while trying to keep it fully street legal.

@@houjous5131 We raced a 790 in a Hare and Hound Hooligan class once and we used a 500 EXC front mask and it worked perfectly. What you can do is use a 500 EXCV front fender (it will bolt directly to that bike) and then the 500 EXC headlight mask will fit into the front fender (the mask has pins that fit into it) and then you just use the rubber straps that go around the forks for the upper part. Then you could wire in a Baja Designs XL 80 light or a Cyclops offering. Then all you would need to do is figure out how to mount the dash. The bike will run without it though if you just need to get through one event but you won't know what's happening with it if there is an issue. Hope this helps.

@@RottweilerPerformance lots of great help - thanks!

Good catch! That took us a second. We were probably playing around with a tail tidy that would work for that bike. The rear Husky tail light configuration on that bike is unnecessarily complicated and we wanted to see what we could do with what we had and were playing around with it. The stock tail light would have to be purchased and it drove the cost up high enough for us to not make them.

Yes and no. The Husky tail light assembly is overly complicated and we played around with using the 890 tail light to make what we already have work so we could offer something quickly, but ultimately we dropped the project at the time. We may pick it back up though as the Norden has since proved to be a popular model.

@@RottweilerPerformance If you make it I’m buying it!

@@ehiggins7476 Okay, just because of you we are putting it back on the list! May be a while, but we're on it.

@@RottweilerPerformance Awesome!

Not entirely. You need load on the piston rings to push them into the cylinder to set the wear. This is not a bad thing to do at all, but not remotely complete in terms of proper break in. This tends to be a contentious subject with some people, will all kinds of theories thrown about, but after years of gathering information on all levels the dyno break in method of loading and unloading, along with heating and cooling cycles seems to be the most accepted method, which is what we use.

@@RottweilerPerformance the issue I don’t have access to dyno at my city

⁠@@MAZENBIRAAll good, what you are doing is good, and once that’s done we would suggest loading and unloading the bike as best you can with short spurt rides oscillating the RPMs. Let it cool between these cycles and you should be good to then change the oil and go for it.

@@RottweilerPerformance the bike still at the dealership tell Thursday for accessories transfer from my RR so I have asked them to do the heat cycle an hour daily and leave it to cool down over night it means it will be in heat cycle for 4 days prior to but into the street and go to the next step Thanx a lot I’ll keep you posted

We are very sorry you had to find Matthew this way. He was a beloved employee and friend and we still have his helmet here at the shop along with a picture of him hanging in the lobby in perpetuity. Thank you for commenting with your wonderful memory of Matt here and we are so sorry he is not here to be found, except for in our hearts.

Not at all. What you are reading is the beginning or start of the run on the dyno and they always look like that with a little ramp up. We load the bike at the lowest RPM the bike will allow us to and start from there and those dips should really be trimmed off but we didn’t. You can’t really measure HP well at very low RPMs on a dyno. We can tune there, and measure air fuel ratios there, but turning a heavy drum at those low RPMs doesn’t measure well. These mods make a ton of HP from bottom to top.

If you need a video to show you how to replace them it's probably a better idea not to replace them yourself 🤣

The Torque numbers are generated by a mathematical equation in the software so whatever percentage you see in the HP you will see the exact same percentage in the Torque so no difference. At the time we made this video we did not have a separate torque load cell affixed to the dyno which would split HP and Torque into separately measured reports, but as of 2023 we have one but you still wouldn't see much difference as typically the curves effected by changes to the exhaust would effect both about equally. We mostly use the torque load cell to measure increases in ignition advances live.

Many have done this yes. It just takes a little imagination and careful planning so that the levers don't contact the mirror mounts but often that can be quite easy with moving the levers in slightly or dropping them down just a bit. In short, we've never seen a custom mount situation that we couldn't design a solution for.

Thank you! Glad you liked it!

Pretty much the same!

You are definitely worried for no reason. We have sold 1,000's of these and what you mentioned is not an issue whatsoever. If you are truly concerned you can simply replace the wood screws with regular screws with nylock nuts on the inside of the airbox but again, this isn't really a thing. We would recommend getting the kit and if for some reason once you see it you are genuinely concerned you can send it back but we really don't see that happening we are that confident.

Because you need to make sure there are no plastic shavings that have dropped into the airbox after the screws are wound in. There shouldn't be because nothing is drilled, but just in case.

@@RottweilerPerformance got it - thanks for a quick reply...I will prbbly not touch my airbox - thinking a tiny plastic shaving would have zero impact inside the engine anyway (contrary to the dust around the airbox).

@@michail1963 It's easy enough to pull out, but either way you'll be fine. The screws just thread in and push plastic out of the way and don't really 'shave' anything off. They are like the plastic screws KTM uses here and there that are like wood screws.

Well then! Tell us about them.

@@RottweilerPerformance well if you are into having less fatigue and more comfort while riding/standing then you are going to love them. Just saying…

@@motionfactoryracing5914 Then we would recommend you get a hold of our purchaser!

@@RottweilerPerformance I sent an email over with our Spring Catalog attached.

These videos are done at random and when we can. We get requests all the time but can only make them when we have one on a bike really. You will see results without a tune. The decat just makes your exhaust thing it's longer, which adds more low to mid end power.

@@RottweilerPerformance thanks. Does it matter that I’m using the lv-10 dual exhaust? Does it make it even longer?

@@MC-qj2zd Not really. It has mostly to do with how far the exhaust pulses have to travel before they dissipate and become reverse pulses. With the stock cat, they dissipate there as they expand in the chamber that houses it which is a very short distance from the head and valves, so this tends to create more top end centered power. When a decat is installed the pulse waves are able to travel further before the dissipate and return which typically makes better low to mid, sometimes effecting the top but much less than the gains in the low to mid. For example, you might gain 3 in the middle and lose 1 at the top. Seeing that you spend 99% of your time in the middle, this is an acceptable compromise unless you are at 100% throttle 100% of the time, which hopefully you are not.

Not at all. The dongles make the bike think the valves are still there. You are good!

We would highly recommend this kit we make. It makes things very straightforward and uses the proper wires to source the power. The leads under the seat (Black/Red & Brown) that come on with the ignition would be ideal, but they don't push enough amps like the ones that are always on, (Yellow/Red $ Brown) so we use the ignition set to trigger a relay to allow the yellow/red set to power it. shop.rottweilerperformance.com/ez-power-relay-switch/

Oh yeah, this thing is pretty bulletproof, but the user just needs to know how to install it properly and what to look for. That's pretty much true for anything really, but we have made sure it's a very solid design. We had a few in testing for the last year and a half and below is a transcript of a comment on Adventure Rider forum. From a preproduction tester: "I was fortunate to try out a pre-production version of this on my 1290. I traded out the original Rottweiler airbox that I had purchased for this and I rode it around the SW US, Baja, and mainland Mexico and never had no problems with it over about 20k miles. I'm not a pro rider, but I always travel with my partner, and I'm usually riding behind her, so I wind up eating a lot of dust. I think that looks like a gap because the filter is puffed out right after the point where it's compressed and is being stretched upward, if that makes sense. The foam lip underneath is fairly large (maybe a bit under an inch...it comes as close to the stacks as possible without interfering) and it does compress and seal well."

Can you tell us what the issue is with that bike in your opinion?

It requires fairly time consuming removal of various fairing and trim panels on both sides of the bike to access the two air filter elements. Not sure if all models are the same, but my 2019 CRF1000 has an air filter element on the left side of the bike and another on the right. It would be so nice to have something like the one you developed for this KTM available for my bike.

Update: For $700, I'm not entirely sure I'm sold.

Love it! Thank you and yeah, we wish we had this out a few years ago but we felt this was an important thing to get to our customers that love these bikes. Thanks for the comment!

We are looking into that for sure as we grow our ever expanding machining department.

Absolutely, we have both of those items. Which graphics kit were you interested in?

I would like to see a graphic of the bike in this video. Please tell me how to do so after purchase.

Loved the graphics of the bikes in this video. Can I order one? I would like to order one.

With a big asterisk...

We've been getting these kind of comments for a lot of different bikes so... 🤔

Thank you! This was a big passion project for us and we are thrilled to finally release it to the public. We love comments like these!

Who says we don't?? 😂

In terms of the throttle body and dirt getting scraped off, this can certainly happen and we have good solutions listed in the instructions, but in testing it was actually less of an issue than we anticipated. That being said there are a couple of things one can do. One is to tilt up the filter before pulling it backward and sliding something underneath it like a piece of cardboard to catch anything that may fall off the front when pulled off, or simply using compressed air to blow out the shallow tops of the throttle body if you are at home. They sit with the butterflies closed and nothing will pass pass by them. During testing we purposely caked the front of the filters (which can be reversed for a clean side mid ride with this system) and removed them over and over, watching the throttle bodies closely and were surprised at how little fell off when purposely being sloppy with the removal which are things we have to anticipate with possibly 1,000's of users. The design had some things to overcome, but we are extremely satisficed with the results and the things you mention have solid solutions rest assured.

Totally understand on the price. Everything to produce these has just gone up and up. This was a very expensive project to produce with R&D time, 3D scans, tooling costs and so on, by far the most costly to date and it was either bring it to market at a price point that reflected the development costs, or not at all, and we felt that the riders who loved these bikes would see the value in the saved time, frustration and money when either performing the arduous work of removing the fuel tank themselves to service the filter or when paying a mechanic hundreds of dollars over and over. In that sense we feel that it pays for itself within 2-3 services and makes these bikes so much more enjoyable.

@@RottweilerPerformance I get it yeah. Good work btw. Maybe I’ll think about it.. Prefilters keep me happy for now.

Yeah, it’s steep but I’m just glad you guys are still working on making the older bikes upgradable. Most companies toss 9-10 year old bike development.

How much will you take to make me one?

How much is your time worth? I'll gladly spend money to save time, because I can always make more money.