I'm very pleased...Thanks for the feedback!

The chain at the passenger/right side is cradling the back of air conditioning compressor. At minutes 1:40-1:51, you see the chain tensioned at the rear of the A/C compressor. What may seem confusing is the two slacked pieces of chain that are simply the extra ends of the support chains. (See 2:04-2:11 for the slack at the extra chain.) There is no chain attachment at the front of the compressor or anywhere near the fan. Support at the passenger side of the engine is strictly the chain slung beneath the back of the compressor. The compressor has enough support to handle this amount of engine weight. When lifting, use the wing nuts on the beam as noted. To change motor mounts, the engine actually pivots upward from the rear transmission mount. Weight on the support beam is not extreme, which you will see when you tighten the wing nut handles. Be careful and watch for parts interference, binding or obstructions. Lift just enough to safely remove the mount(s). Keep hands out of harm's way at all times. Watch through the video again with these steps in mind.

Are you looking for an Advance Adapters "Ranger Torque Splitter", the two-speed (overdrive) gearbox that goes between your GM V8 bellhousing and the SM465 transmission? The folks at Advance Adapters could have a lead: phone 1-800-350-2223 or contact www.advanceadapters.com. I ran this same setup in the late eighties, a Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 with a 383 Chevy stroker V8 and SM465 four-speed manual truck box. Great for split shifting and an overdrive gear! The Torque Splitter uses a single shift lever. You have two levers with the SM465 Muncie truck box and its cane.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Yes, this is exactly what I'm lookin for. Thanks for the tip. I had heard they don't manufacture this untit anymore, but hoping for some kinda lead.

Most have opted for later transmission swaps like the NV4500, NV5600 or more recently the Tremec 4050, each with an overdrive top gear. (The iron NV4500 five-speed and iron NV5600 six-speed were available in GM and Dodge Ram 2WD and 4WD trucks. I prefer the NV4500 five-speed for its reliability record.) Split shifting was the bonus with the Ranger Torque Splitter. There was always a "right" gear when pulling a load or saving fuel at cruise.

Thanks!

Many use their 258/4.2L crankshaft and rods in a 4.0L block to produce a stroker motor. The 4.0L has a 1/8" larger bore than the 258. The 4.0L stroke is shorter. The marriage between these two engines produces great power. With a complete 4.0L donor engine, a modern stroker engine can be built. I like the 1991-95 distributor-type 4.0L donor engines with the 60-way/pin PCM and original engine wiring harness included. This build has been covered extensively at 4WD Mechanix Magazine and its forums.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel thanks 🙏 my is from a jeep Wrangler 1990. Islander

You have the last carbureted 258 inline six. Not a slouch! I went over the Rubicon trail with these models and competed in the '87/'88 Jeep Cup Rally as well. I'm a big fan of the 258, even in stock form. We lit these engines up with the Mopar Performance EFI Conversion in the mid-nineties. The 1981-90 258 CJs and YJs could gain a conservative 50 horsepower with the bolt-on conversion, better fuel efficiency and excellent high altitude performance. Even the stock BBD Carter carbureted models deliver fun, reliable service!

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel yes carburetor

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel I tried to repair the engine, but got bad luck with the guys in the machine shop

I agree that engine coolant temperature is regulated by the thermostat. The A/C condenser temperature affects the engine cooling system's load. Different refrigerants and refrigerant additives can impact the air temperatures flowing from the A/C system's vents. A change in refrigerant type or a quality additive can change the A/C efficiency, regardless of the engine's coolant temperature.

Yes, almost a guarantee...Wise to pick up a replacement radiator drain plug before this task. If the original plastic plug stays intact, you'll have a new one on hand. I have two spares on the shelf.

In the video I use a few specialty tools: a flare nut socket, Torx drivers and the automatic transmission line coupler disconnect tool. Each tool is demonstrated. If you are asking for more details on the tool used to uncouple the transmission line coupler (lower line), my set has the common Lisle graduated sizes (U.S./SAE or metric sizes available). Here is an example of a Lisle "master kit": www.amazon.com/Lisle-39900-Master-Disconnect-Set/dp/B000W1R1J0/ref=sr_1_15. There are also single disconnect tools available in just the size you need for a specific fuel, automatic transmission or air conditioning line coupler. (Measure the tubing diameter for sizing.) Let me know whether you have any other tool questions.

I understand the countershaft issue. I will likely replace my XR650R's shaft during a future bench rebuild, as this engine puts out a lot of torque. There are distinct differences between our frames, although the XR650L does come as a plateable, dual-sport motorcycle. U.S. XR650Rs require a conversion for dual-sport use and can only be street licensed at states that allow these conversions.

I always use fresh, distilled water and never use mineralized tap water in my cooling systems. (See the section beginning at 5:54 through 7:21 of this video for details on flushing with distilled water.) I did clean the system during this service but did not find much debris. The flush procedure is described in your factory workshop manual if you need "official" guidelines.

I just checked the Autel website, and the MS906TS has been officially discontinued: autel.com/us/product/maxisys-ms906-ts/ (see footnote at the description). I have attended several online webinars with Autel, and the push has been to the later MaxiSys 909, 919 and, especially, the Ultra platforms. (The 919 and Ultra platforms can support a VCMI interface and wide range of additional features and functions: autel.com/us/product/maxiflash-vcmi-kit/.) The MS906TS can still be found through 3rd party vendors and distributors. However, I encourage your thoroughness and initiative to determine specific model coverage before buying a seemingly outdated MS906TS. (Annual subscription downloads are still available for this model and typically less costly than software for the upscale platforms.) The later platforms have many more features to offer-at a substantially higher price. The annual software subscriptions for shops that need ongoing updates are considerably more expensive for the 909, 919 and Ultra than the MS906TS (which is costly enough). Ongoing and annual software updates from any scan tool manufacturer can be costly, and Autel is reasonable compared to some. Make sure you understand the software update needs and costs. To date, Autel has allowed customers to use their original software load after it expires...I am using my MS906TS exclusively for vehicles covered in the original/included software that came with the unit. This covers 1996-up OBD II systems, which includes our current vehicles: a 1999 Jeep Cherokee, a 2003 VW Jetta TDI and our 2005 Ram 3500 with a Cummins turbodiesel. At the Autel site, if you wish to pursue this further, you can get the specifications and features for the upscale platforms. The MS906Pro and MS906Pro-TS are still available and provide faster processing speeds than the MS906TS. The Autel site also has information on which vehicle models are covered by each scan tool platform and the accessories kit...For my purposes, the MS906TS with the initial software load has worked well. I'm not performing commercial work nor am I currently working on vehicles beyond the range of the original MS906TS software coverage. Autel builds great products and has become a world leader. Pricing reflects that status.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Thank you for your perfectly articulated reply. It is most appreciated sir and I will take it under serious advisement as I drown myself in the abys of Autel diagnostic platform specifications and software contract SNAFUs.

I am interested in your findings and conclusions. Diagnostic tablets and software updates or cloud services can be quite expensive. For DIY use, Autel was the cost-saving, quality alternative for some time. The tablet line now caters to commercial shop users. (The DIY "link" systems are OBDII data stream readers.) Worth noting, I do use my Autel MaxiScope MP408 Oscilloscope and OAK accessories kit to good end. (This product has also been discontinued, as oscilloscopes are now built into the higher end, more costly Autel tablets.) The MP408 has the advantage of diagnosing components and systems without dependence on the ECU/ECM or PCM data stream. There is a learning curve...If accessible, an MP408 with OAK is valuable and far less costly than a diagnostic tablet.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel First let me say that I am a retired engine systems control technician formerly educated and trained in Diesel and Heavy Equipment Repair and Industrial Maintenance Technologies. Now that I’m retired, I am basically a DIYer and have family fleet of vehicles to maintain and repair. These include Toyota, Jeep, Chrysler and my 2015 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins. I have not used diagnostic scanners since the 90s when I was a mechanic. Then, I had a MPSI PRO LINK 9000 which I used on GM, Ford and Chrysler vehicles up to and ending at 1990. You can view a very interesting video of this early scan tool here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ha2aq5agmdq5mIE.htmlsi=67_VSJ7GGmnL-GFF It was available with the BIG 3 automotive cartridges/adaptors as well as diesel truck engine. By the end of the 90s I was no longer an automotive/heavy equipment mechanic so did not invest in another scan tool until July 2024. WOW what a different world we live in now right? So here we are, 2024 looking to purchase my 2nd scanner of my life at age 65 and I am completely overwhelmed by all the great products to choose from. Your 2022 video: “Why We Picked the Autel MS906TS Scan Tool for Our Shop” kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aJiZjNKCms6cknU.htmlsi=yAumiY2jj73J_Rz9 is exactly what I was looking for from a DIYer’s perspective. You were basically looking for the best diagnostic scan tool for your money without having to pay for annual software updates for the tool to operate to your needs level; you basically “owned” the software. I thought EXACTLY! I can’t afford $300-$600 annual updates to keep a diagnostic tool as it was purchased and used during the first year. Your video on your choice of tool(s) was very helpful and ON POINT! So much so that I decided on using it as my Holy Grail of sorts to help me choose the best and most affordable tool for me and my needs, which are very much like yours were then. I started my research with the MS906TS you purchased in ’22. Next my Autel research into oscilloscope packages started of course with your MP408 Oscilloscope and OAK accessories kit. Starting with the MS906TS my search queries on the Autel store website resulted in 4 other Autel recommended scanners. • A search of the Autel Store for the MaxiSYS MS909 shows it being sold out and a cost of $3,795.00. • A search for the MS919 shows still available with 5-in-1 VCMI, Same as Autel Ultra -The MaxiFlash VCMI is a small but complete and reliable lower computer with powerful hardware extensions such as oscilloscope, waveform generator, multimeter, and CAN BUS tester. It also supports multiple transmission protocols simultaneously such as KPW, CAN, CAN-FD, DoIP, etc. AT A COST OF $4,745.00 (ON SALE) • A search for the MP408 Oscilloscope is of course obsolete and no longer available. Conclusion: In order to get close to your original MS906TS as it relates to the Oscilloscope compatibility; I have to spend upwards of between $3,795 and $4,745.00. These include the scope (VCMI) and software interfaces. For my DYI vehicle maintenance needs for my 2015 Ram 6.7L I wanted the capability to perform a relative compression test using the 4 channel VCMI (scope). The Ultra Lite S car scanner can collaborate with MV108S/BT506 to conduct digital inspections and cranking and charging, but I would have to go with the Maxisys Ultra to get the VCMI (Scope) connectivity; and this would be at a cost of $5,695.00! The only platforms that are compatible with the VCMI (Scope) are the Maxisys Ultra or the MS919 at a cost of $5,695 and $4,745.00 respectively. The MaxiFlash VCMI (Scope) comes with both units. Research shows Autel only offers the Oscilloscope with these 2 units. Obtaining the VCMI by itself would probably be pointless because the software needed to interface with it seems to currently only be available on the Maxisys Ultra and the MS919. I have inquired of Autel as to the availability of an VCMI upgrade for other Autel units with same specs. Nothing in specifications or descriptions in Autel’s other platforms leads one to believe that Autel is planning on making a software download available for other platforms in the foreseeable future. But you never know; and if they did, the cost for a software upgrade to units such as MaxiCOM MK906-TS Pro or the Maxisys 906 Pro would probably be very expensive. Summary: The Autel world of Oscilloscope interface scanners has a much different look than it did when you did this video in 2022. There are only 2 Autel scanners that will do what I want to be able to do and those are the MS919 and Maxisys Ultra. I can’t afford a $5000 scanner so I will most likely consider purchasing a unit such as the Maxisys MS906 Pro or MaxiCOM MK906-TS because they are probably closest to my needs for the money. I have not talked about the annual software updates because Autel will cut their own throats if annual updates became necessary for the tool to function as purchased. In 2024 the old adage “YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR” has cunningly and emphatically been adopted by Autel. I am also now having to consider purchasing scanner from a different manufacturer; one that offers an affordable bang for my buck like Autel was for you in 2022. I can only assume that the high demand for their products have contributed significantly to their current retail market posturing as it pertains to their new “PAY TO PLAY” roll out of their 2024 line up. This might not be the money game I can afford to play. Maybe Launch, Topdon, Ancel, Xtool or Thinkdiag 2 still offer an affordable bang for my buck.

Thanks much for your thorough research and findings. They match my recent experience. I'm not faulting Autel for its success, but you're correct in noting that the manufacturer's focus is now commercial shops that want higher-end equipment. I took several Autel/NTK webinar workshops over the last 18 months and discovered that my MS906TS and the MP408 got no mention in the demonstrations. (As a footnote, MS906TS upgrades to the later tablet functions do not exist, either.) The sole products demonstrated in the webinars were VCMI 919 and Ultra platforms with the features you describe. When I did the video, various Autel distributors were selling the MS906TS tablet with accessories in the $1,200-$1,600 (USD) range. The MS906PRO-TS came out immediately after I got my tablet. Have you looked at that unit? It's in the same price range as what my MS906TS sold for, and the MS906PRO-TS actually has faster processing and more features than the MS906TS. I searched a bit just now and found a new MS906PRO-TS that comes with the original/1-year software load (for U.S. buyers): www.obdprice.com/products/autel-maxisys-ms906pro-ts-tpms-diagnostic-scanner. I've not purchased from this vendor. You can explore this further. Frankly, the price of $1439 is very attractive and units are apparently in stock. While the MSOAK accessories kit is available (works with the MP408 and also other units), the MaxiScope MP408 is currently (or forever?) "sold out". A few years ago, the MP408 sold for $600-$800 (USD), including the OAK accessories. I really like this standalone oscilloscope, an option to the expensive PICO 4-channel! As a light/medium duty truck fleet mechanic in the late sixties/early seventies, and later as an automotive instructor, I valued engine analyzer/oscilloscopes. I like the idea of testing devices without a dependency on an onboard computer and data stream. With an in-cylinder pressure transducer (gasoline engines) and intake/exhaust pressure pulse sensor, an oscilloscope can perform in-depth engine diagnostics. A cranking, relative compression test based on starter draw is very quick...I have more information on the MaxiScope MP408 at my magazine and forums sites: forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/1308-introducing-the-autel%C2%AE-mp408-maxiscope-and-oak-accessories/#comment-9243 and 4wdmechanix.com/autel-maxiscope-automotive-lab-scope/. Both the MS906TS and MP408 are well constructed, quality products. As I shared in the video, the Autel MS906TS is optimal for my uses. If we were doing commercial work, and if we needed constant vehicle/software updates, the current Autel choices that you describe (accurately) could "pay for themselves" over time. I am content, at least at the moment, to continue using the original MS906TS software load that Autel included in the package. With VCI, it's as advanced and reliable for my 1999-2005 vehicles as required. Your situation would be similar. As for high-end tablets and expensive annual subscription renewals, Autel is certainly not unique. Many tablet producers are trending toward mandatory "cloud services" for software nesting and streaming. This requires an uninterrupted, ongoing subscription fee. Some manufacturers offered optional tech support subscriptions that have now become part of the tablet package. As you note, up to this point, Autel has allowed customers' purchased software to remain active after the annual subscription expires...Thanks much for sharing, and let us know what you wind up doing!

Thanks for your feedback and insight...My use of the bar in this video was to support and hold up the front of the engine while replacing the motor mounts. (The transmission, transfer case and drivelines are in place.) As you can see in the video, I am far forward of the firewall and master cylinder. To your point, if supporting the rear of the engine (like during a transmission/transfer case removal) it would be important not to have the bar interfere with the brake master cylinder, booster or any other vital parts. This is a "universal" tool, which requires good judgment and adjustments for each use.

A Saginaw rotary valve power steering gear senses (measures) the vehicle load or steering wheel force by way of a torsion bar that runs inside the gear's hollow stub shaft. The torsion bar is pinned to the stub shaft's upper splined end; the pin can be seen at the coupler splines with the coupler removed. (The torsion bar can be seen at the top of the splined stub shaft.) The torsion bar runs through the hollow stub shaft and into the valve body's end cap. The torsion bar is pinned to the end cap. The torsion or twisting resistance is between the stub shaft's splined section and the valve body end cap. The end cap mates with the spool valve. The spool valve helps direct pressurized fluid to one side or the other of the rack piston. This pressurized fluid from the valve body assembly provides the power assist...Usually, the valve body requires nothing more than thorough cleaning. The torsion bar is seldom an issue or weak component. When there is a clear problem like the torque to move the spool valve is too light, the stub shaft assembly (including the torsion bar and end cap) would be replaced as a unit...I have never modified or machined a stub shaft's torsion bar and do not recommend doing so. There are other ways to increase the power assist and make the steering "easier". Heavy steering, especially at low engine speeds, usually has other causes. First, I would test the power steering pump to make sure it is producing the right pressure with the engine at an idle speed. This is when the vehicle is parked and needs the most power assist. A weak pump or low pressure setting (valving issue) could create too little power assist at low engine speeds. The other issue is flow or fluid volume even if the pump produces the right pressure. Flow can be restricted by a deteriorating hose, kinked hose, defective valves at the gear's fluid inlet and outlet, or a restriction within the steering gear. Both the pressure and return hoses must be in good condition...Increasing the pump pressure and volume could make steering lighter, but too much pressure is not good, either. It can damage seals or rupture a pressure hose. If the gear has been assembled properly and is sealing well, the pump may be at fault. If the gear is worn or has been rebuilt improperly, the Teflon rings may not be sealing properly at the valve body or between the rack piston and the steering gear's bore. A pressure loss here would decrease the power assist and make the steering feel heavy.

On our Ram truck, I did all of the necessary valve body mods from Sonnax and BD Performance. (See 4wdmechanix.com/survival-upgrades-for-jeep-and-dodge-ram-automatic-transmissions/ and 4wdmechanix.com/ram-truck-47re-and-48re-transmission-in-chassis-survival-upgrades-from-bd-diesel-performance/ for details.) My "failure prone" 48RE has survived well, now approaching 200K miles, it's never been on my workbench yet. The 01M Jetta transmission has yet to show trouble, though this four-speed automatic has plenty of critics. The four-speeds are one drawback, though the bigger concern is a complete failure. I am following closely on upgrades. The OEM transmission still shifts and holds fine at 114K miles. A planned fluid change will help with its survival...If/when the time comes, I'll be the one to rebuild the 01M, using whatever upgrades make sense. Some go for a manual transmission conversion, and that's always an option.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel hell yeah that's awesome! I'm about to install the high dollar valve body with sonax solenoids and a new wiring harness into my 01M. She's sitting with 228k so "barely broken in." 😂 I had a MKIV sedan with the ALH and a 5 spec manual and I'm kicking myself in the butt for reading that motor for the wagon to some extent. If the manual completely craps out on me I'll be throwing a 6 speed from an R32 or something similar into it.

We're on the same path with the 01M. Driving technique and fluid changes can extend the life of any automatic transmission. (The supposed "lifetime" fluid is ridiculous.) Most wear is during harsh upshifts. I'm experimenting with how many miles can be squeezed from a 01M when driven sensibly.

Well, Fluidampr helped here. They redesigned the Cummins damper to allow a belt change without removing the damper. The earlier applications from Fluidampr would not allow this. You may have an earlier Fluidampr, and if so, I am sorry that you need to do the extra work! See the part number comparisons and footnotes at the Fluidampr website. Let us know what you discover.

You're welcome, glad the video was helpful for your axle work! Thanks for your comments and subscription, they encourage more content like this video.

The instructions should detail the full curing time. 24-hours would be plenty in normal temperatures and atmospheric conditions. As I recall, the partial cure times are discussed in the instructions...If in doubt about when to safely expose the patch to gasoline, Tech-Bond Solutions has details and an email contact address at its website. They will respond.

You're welcome...Glad this helps. These products are unique, which caught my attention originally. The concept and method of application are entirely different than what most of us have tried without success. Saving the Jeep fuel tank was big. These tanks are either obsolete or costly. When a replacement tank or upgrade is not available at a reasonable fare, we turn to used tanks that are a crapshoot. This route is certainly worth a try. I carry a Tech-Bond Solutions "kit" with my off-road tools. If we never need to make a repair on our own vehicle, we may be able to help others on a trail or remote backroad.

It's held up very well, no leaks or issues. Tech-Bond Solutions does a lot of work with plastic tanks, it's their niche. The Tech-Bond website and their KZfaq videos go into detail about the process. (This is way beyond glues or epoxy products that will not bond these plastics.) Steps take a while and require close attention...A new larger tank like this can be expensive and hard to find. I'm glad this worked for us. Most folks wind up in a recycling yard taking a chance on a used tank.

During that era, I used the Advance Adapters Ranger "Torque Splitter" that commonly went between a Chevrolet V8 bellhousing and an SM465 Muncie truck 4-speed. 0.73% overdrive and a rugged torque rating made the two-speed Ranger gearbox popular. Though no longer manufactured due to alternative conversions like an NV4500 or NV5600 transmission, or the new Tremec TR4050 design that Steve Roberts and I discuss in the video, the Ranger Torque Splitter would work well with an SM465 4-speed in a 2WD hauler. If you cannot find a used Torque Splitter, a used NV4500 or NV5600 conversion might be cost-effective. The Saturn Overdrive is exclusively for a Model 18 Jeep or early Scout application and would be too light duty for your truck's torque and load requirements. The Saturn is designed to fit in the PTO opening of the Model 18 Spicer transfer case.

It's too hard to start bro😢😢 can u help me to find a decompression cam 😢😢

You asked about a decompression camshaft...For my XR650R top engine build, I added a HotCams Stage 1 camshaft (mild grind) that eliminates the factory auto-decompressor mechanism. The handlebar compression release lever is used during kick starting. With the ignition switched off (Baja Designs dual sport conversion kit), I carefully bring the piston to TDC on the compression stroke then push the kickstart lever lightly to bring the piston just past TDC. Ignition turned ON, compression release level off, I kick through firmly. Tuned right, the engine starts on the first or second kick without kickback. This is a traditional starting method for high compression thumpers that I first used with my 1969 BSA 441 Victor Special single.

Yah bro u changed ur decompression cam & u installed HOT CAMS its detailed in ur video itz hard to find parts in our country (SL) wht did u do to ur decompression cam

The original camshaft with auto-decompressor went to a friend who has built/restored an XR650R. He had a similar problem to yours: no parts available. I was able to help him out. My choice to use the HotCams Stage 1 camshaft is "permanent". I am very pleased with using the manual compression release to carefully bring the piston just past TDC on its compression stroke before kicking through. Without kickback, the engine will start with one to two kicks. I plan to do a video on that starting procedure at the motorcycle channel: youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel.com. Join us there!

bro where we can buy it

You're welcome. Glad this is helpful...Your subscription is valued, too.

Glad this helped...

Try Revzilla...They and other vendors sold TCI Products. Revzilla may know the current status of TCI Products or any successor brand that may offer these products. Moose Racing sold these products as well, and Revzilla has a PDF installation sheet available at www.revzilla.com/assets/0004/1220/moose_racing_expedition_rear_top_rack_honda_xr650_r20002007.pdf that covers the XR650R. It might be worth contacting Moose Racing...I worked with TCI a decade ago, they had a loyal following around rugged luggage racks and engine guard solutions. For the XR650R, an under fender brace is a must for either the top-only Borrego rack or the Sequoia rack for top and side saddle luggage. Important to note, the Honda XR650R rear frame extensions with 6mm, factory tapped holes are not optimal support for hefty loads. At the motorcycle channel (youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel), we have discussed load limits. Even with the superior braces and engineering from TCI Products, I have limited my loads based on the motorcycle's rear frame extension tubing size and tapped holes. These extensions were not intended for heavy rear loads. In fairness to Honda, this bike was engineered for open desert racing...I am running the lighter Borrego rack (top-only plus the under fender brace) now, reducing the bike's cargo weight to 15 pounds when riding two-track or single track. With the Sequoia rack in place, I limit my outdoor and filming gear weight to 30 pounds maximum. This plus the weight of the TCI Sequoia rack, Nelson-Rigg soft luggage and TCI's under fender brace make plenty of mass. Look closely at your bike's rear frame support(s) before plunging. TCI designed the under fender brace to distribute the load more evenly, but there are limits.

Before attempting to fabricate this piece, try McMaster-Carr or MSC Direct. I find chromium ball bearings (close tolerance, properly hardened), machinery parts and industrial items like the part you need at these sources. Beyond that, Advance Adapters (phone 1-800-350-2223 and ask for tech support) is a direct dealer for Aisin and offers complete, brand new AX15s. They may have some parts on hand or, more likely, transmission cores or used parts like the pin you need.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Appreciate your advice, sadly no luck. I found many components somewhat close in size from McMaster but at that point we may as well turn from new stock and go through the motions, we shall see in time how it holds up. Follow up question, at the shift tower now, installing restrictor pins. One feels a lot stiffer than the other to compress. Do you know which side this one goes on? The overhaul manual does not differentiate. I would guess 5-R is stiffer, either from lack of use, or for user comfort shifting in usual driving conditions?

Another idea on the missing locating pin: Look for a similar dowel pin. Automotive machine shops and other applications create a market for replacement dowel pins. Sources for dowel pins by size include Fastenal. I looked at their website and found a lengthy sizing list at www.fastenal.com/product/Fasteners/Pins/Dowel%2520Pins?query=dowel+pins&categoryId=600111. (Your measurement is very close to 3/16" U.S. or 4.78mm. Fastenal shows steel and stainless, U.S. and metric sizing. I would prefer a hardened steel for this application; you could inquire about hardness and the alloy.) Also, and simpler yet, the mainshaft pin is Mopar Part Number 83506008 ("Mainshaft Pin"). I ran the number in a search and immediately turned this up: www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-pin-mainshaft~83506008.html. The part is still in the Mopar system and not very expensive...Regarding the tower, your theory makes sense, as we can feel this during shifts to reverse or 5th. If so, the design would reduce the risk of accidentally dropping the shifter into reverse instead of fourth gear or fifth/overdrive instead of third gear...Make certain you have the interlock springs, pins, balls and plugs in order at the shift rails. This part of the assembly is crucial for the right shift fork and rail interaction.

Glad this helps...The play is only removed over the dead center point of the gear. There is a "high point" here on the sector mesh where a specified, slight drag is measured as shown in the video. If you attempt to remove play (backlash) at the left or right steering extremes, the gear will bind over the center. The play at the two extremes (left or right) is "normal" as long as the over-center slight drag is properly established. All of this assumes that the power rack's bearing race, the ball bearings, the worm shaft bearing groove, the power rack teeth and the sector teeth are in good condition and within specification. If you're puzzled why play is "okay" at the two extremes, the front wheel caster angle and other steering geometry create resistance that removes the backlash in actual service...When the front end is aligned properly (especially caster), the wheels want to return to center naturally. This force removes the left/right extremes play or backlash within the steering gear.

The website for Tech-Bond Solutions is: tbbonding.com/. Tech-Bond Solutions also has a KZfaq channel: kzfaq.info/love/uVmMaSceoqNT5Oi32-JptQ. Both sites have more information on the product and company. The website has a store and cart.

At 12-minutes into the video, I share the vacuum filler method that has become popular. My only concern is that this method of filling the system does collapse the radiator hose(s). (You'll see the upper hose collapsed in my demonstration.) For a hose in new or newer/good condition, this should not be a hardship or cause trouble. An older hose could be an issue. Once vacuum is established and held with the tool, the siphon hose gets placed in the gallon jug(s) or a tub with clean coolant and water mix. (I bought a plastic cement mixing tub just for this purpose and keep the tub clean.) If you do not want to buy a vacuum filler kit (inexpensive at Harbor Freight, Amazon, eBay, etc.), the traditional method you describe will work. Heat on high, the fan speed is more for keeping the heater core from overheating than anything else...Fill the radiator to the filler neck and the overflow tank/reservoir to above its fill level. After warm-up to normal operating temperature, the engine is shut off and allowed to cool down. Coolant mix siphons into the radiator and replaces air in the cooling system. Level the coolant in the reservoir...After several warm-up/cool down cycles, the siphoned coolant from the reservoir eliminates all air in the cooling system. The reservoir must remain at least at its fill level during this cycling back and forth. Turning the heater on is always wise when using this method. Do not let the engine overheat, as there may be air gaps within the coolant. When normalized, drive the truck; after parking and cool down, watch the coolant level in the reservoir for several trips. Burping the system this way, always keep the coolant level normal in the reservoir.

At 11:40-minutes, I explain the use of a blunt end impact driver which often works well. I then demonstrate the puller you ask about: This is a Miller 6790 flange with a long stem from my puller set. The flange is actually for rotating Jeep/Chrysler semi-floating rear axle shafts when checking the function of a Trac-Lok differential. On a Jeep semi-floating rear axle, the wheel nuts secure this tool to the axle flange. The 6790 tool is used with a short bolt through the center threads. A dial torque wrench rotates the bolt head when checking the Trac-Lok. In this improvisation on the 11.5" pinion flange application, I installed a longer, threaded puller stem into the 6790 tool. As you can see, the flange gets bolted to the AAM pinion flange. The threaded stem exerts force against the pinion shaft's end, which separates the two pieces...The official factory tool for pulling the Ram 11.5" pinion flange is the Miller 8992 puller. The 9.25" companion flange removal tool is the 6719A Miller. It looks much like the 8992. Advance Adapters makes a stout universal pinion flange removal tool that uses the same principle as the 8992 and 6719A or my improvised use of the Miller 6790. The Advance Adapters P/N 716400 tool fits popular Dana and other yoke flange applications. Here is the link: www.advanceadapters.com/5410. Give Advance Adapters a call and ask whether the 716400 puller will work with your AAM 11.5" and 9.25" flanges: 1-800-350-2223.

I can share a few personal anecdotes from my trail testing experience over time. In the early nineties, with one of the earlier, lighter iterations of the Pull-Pal, I did a test on a somewhat steep hardpan incline. To my surprise, the Pull-Pal shovel point broke into the hardpan only a few inches but was able to anchor soundly, enough for the winch to pull the Jeep CJ up the hill. The device was stable. Kept upright, it worked under these conditions. On another occasion, equally surprising, I witnessed a Pull-Pal and winch self-recover a Jeep stuck in snow. A Pull-Pal's physics want to drive the shovel downward and hold. As long as the downward grip will match the winch force, the device is useful. Sand and gravel are predictable recoveries...Others may have experiences to share that are similar or unique. Please share! Personally, I would not go to any remote destination without a Pull-Pal onboard.

You're welcome, glad this video is helpful!

Good question! Very interesting that the audio stops around halfway through. I'll look for the original "Part 4" in my archives and upload this video again...Thanks for sharing your discovery. Very helpful!

I'm pleased that it worked and saved you a costly labor sublet. I appreciate your feedback, too. Enjoy your truck...

Leak detector dye is like adding refrigerant-with the A/C operating. Follow the charging steps for your vehicle's system when adding a dye. With many leak testing kits, leaks become visible with UV light. There are also Harbor Freight to commercial grade wand-type testers that can test for a refrigerant leak without adding dye to the system. These testers "sniff" the hoses, connections, condenser, compressor seals, HVAC plenum and any other place where refrigerant might leak. The electronic tester is sensitive to refrigerant.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel Thanks you.👍👍👍👍👍

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel but if my system is full of refrigerant already ,just turn on Ac and add the leak detector. Right?

There is generally room for dye detector without overloading the system. However, I always use and recommend gauges when performing this kind of work. I watch the pressure and keep the system within the normal operating pressure ranges for the ambient temperature.

The Atlas transfer case is a fully gear-drive (non-chain) unit. It is "part-time" 4x4 and must be manually shifted from 2WD high range into 4WD high and 4WD low range-or front drive/dig only low-range. The unit has the kind of stamina available in legendary gear-drive units like the New Process 205 often found in late sixties, seventies and eighties 4x4 GM, Dodge and Ford heavier duty trucks. The part-time 4x4 NP205 was still a heavy-duty option into the 1990s.

Sorry about the I-29 abrupt exit! The 4.6L build is not much more cost wise than thoroughly rebuilding a stock 4.0L. Additional things needed are a 4.2L crankshaft (or a new Scat unit) and the right rod/piston combination. The rest would be the same concerns you have with a stock rebuild: new camshaft/lifters, bearings, block machining, timing chain and sprockets, cylinder head rebuilding and making sure the pushrod lengths are correct after the head and block deck machining. Good shops are familiar with this "4.6L" stroker build. I like a "torque/RV" camshaft (more valve lift and mild valve opening duration) with compression around 8.7:1 for a wider range of fuel octane choices. This is a low-end torque and good fuel mileage build. Higher compression and a performance camshaft require 318/5.2L V8 Mopar or 302 Ford V8 injectors. The 302 Ford V8 injectors are common for many 4.6L builds. (See 4WD Mechanix Magazine for more details.)

Try the AAM (American Axle and Manufacturing) website (aam.com) or [email protected]. AAM supplies 11.5" axles and components (including aftermarket) for both Ram and GM.

I rode with Jake over the Rubicon Trail, his flat-fender had a highly functional trail suspension system. Jake worked out the bugs over many years, ultimately creating a durable system for hardcore trails...He was a great friend and is missed by family and all who knew him.

This should be workable! Give the Advance Adapters tech support folks a ring at 1-800-350-2223. The Atlas has a wide range of mounting possibilities and often replaces an NP/NV231. I would envision a ready fit between the Rubicrawler and the Atlas with the possible need for driveline length correction (not a deal breaker and quite common). Tech support can provide details.

@@RoadReadywithMosesLudel legendary. Thank you kindly for the feed back and response. Great demonstration, no where else on KZfaq talking about this 🙏🏽🤙🏾

Glad this is helpful...The Rubicrawler is valuable equipment. For 42RLE automatic transmission Jeep (TJ and JK) owners, this is a sensible solution for off-road crawling and extreme low gearing without major modifications to the powertrain or vehicle. The fit is ingenious for a stock transfer case installation and saves considerable effort. Adding an Atlas, in your case, would make the powertrain that much more versatile and rugged!

You're very welcome, glad this is helpful...That's the intent!

Thanks for the feedback...I did this for people like you!

Glad it was helpful! I appreciate the feedback...Thanks!

I understand your frustration...Autel has shifted focus to the Ultra and 919, which have built-in oscilloscope functions. I had the MP408 before the MS906TS and actually like the standalone oscilloscope. (It's similar to a 4-channel PICO automotive scope at far less cost. PICO does offer a troubleshooting library, which the MP408 does not.) If you do want an MP408, search the market, there are suppliers who may still offer the MP408 and have them available. It's worthwhile to have the MP408 along with the optional OAK accessories kit. The later scan tools are terrific-and expensive. The annual subscriptions for software updates can be costly, too. I find that with my 1999 to 2005 vehicles, the original software that came with the MS906TS works well. I have not needed to update software yet. If you run a shop with an annual need to update for the latest vehicles, a subscription renewal would be necessary.

Thank you for the reply, I don’t know if it’s true but also heard the mp408 will only operate on the older Android operating systems 4.4 The ms906pro tc is Android 7 I did find a mp408 brand new for $600 Canadian but just don’t know if worth it . Might just sell my ms906 pro tc has updates until July 2025 and buy the ultra

Compare the cost and added value. The Ultra does have a built-in oscilloscope function, which is a major benefit. Subscription renewals are costly, though, so consider that in the overall cost. The MP408, if practical, does not require updates, it's a universal tool that addresses voltage-based devices and is not dependent on ECM/ECU data streams. (I highly recommend the OAK accessory kit upgrade if you do buy an MP408.) It's an entirely different premise with the oscilloscope. We're analyzing the actual sensors and electrical devices. Add a pressure transducer, and this can even include in-cylinder pressure testing of a running engine! Scanners and oscilloscopes complement each other but serve different goals. The Ultra makes sense if you need a high-end scan tool with many extra functions, including the oscilloscope and a signal generator.

Paul, I appreciate the support and feedback...Your air filter issue is a deja vu. That was the start of my top engine build. I bought the bike not running and did not start it until after the top rebuild shared in the video. Let us know what you think of the HSR 42 Mikuni on your XR650R...The motorcycle channel will be moving fast-forward in April as I complete the shop/studio space. Based on viewer/subscriber interests, expect a steady stream of tech and riding. (My XR650R will have a starring role!) There's travel planned for this riding season with uploads to youtube.com/@motorcycletechandtravel.