Hi @snik2pl, You're right, it's amazing! I think they just wanted to motivate potential buyers who were addicted to peepholes on 60s radios (EM80 tube). I think the VFD will be from the late 80s, early 90s because it already has a CD. I must inform you that the driver did not come with it. It's a shame the bar around the VU meter glows at the same time as the radio scale. I also found the small PCB to receive the pins and connect the wires and serve as a support funny.

Obrigado Daniel, Já tinhamos abordado este "driver", mas aprofundou-se um pouco no control da periferia (cor dos LED's) e no fato de ele permitir o deslocar a porta onde se iniciam os segmentos, o que torna a sua reutilização impossivel se não se levar em isso em conta!

Thank you very much! It is important to know if the work can be useful to someone!

@@jlsmonte Your work is useful and important. Thanks to you, I am sure that I can take any panel from the radio and use it in my homemade products. Thanks a lot!

Thank you very much! I thought it might be tedious.

Hi @tiagomizael7596, thanks a lot by follow my publish displays! The code is already let the more basic possible. We don't use any library, and the send info is at Binary format to allow change the bit and see wat happen! Also all functions can be called as independent process as also can be eliminated on the file of code, if not make use of them, to reduce lines of code. You can speak Portuguese if prefer, and sent me a pictures of you models of panels to see if I can help.

I forget the more important thing, Yes we can use only a dozen o lines of code... but using a library, ok

@@jlsmonte a sim muito obrigado, tenho uma caixa desses displays e quero usar em projetos meus mesmo, maioria todos com ptt6311, se não fosse seus videos nao ia conseguir ligar esses.kkkkk

@@tiagomizael7596 Envia foto de um ou dois que queiras usar, para ver se tenho algo idêntico, para depois testar, quando tiver um pouco de tempo livre, com code mais curto, ok.

@felipe_lopez Hi, You have many ways to apply the -32V (and on this case the exact value is not relevant, important is not go above the value present on datasheet of IC). We can use a converter DC/DC like the B0524S-2W (seller at web by near of 1€) associated in serial with a B0512S-2W which give to us the 36V. Note the letter "S", this is very important, means the converter is isolated from primary block to the secondary block. The value of amperage required is very low, milliamperes! The important is the 3 power sources be total independent. You can also make use for example the regulator from family's 7924, this already give -24 output, but also can use the 7824 and on this case the output is connected to our GND or 0V which result in GND of regulator (LDO) be our -24V, the importance of independency of power sources is exactly to allow this kind of connections. Please look around my channel you have many examples how power up drivers the VFD's with transformers, converters DC/DC, association in serial of DC/DC converters. If you don't find help on the videos examples, let me know and I will try explain this matter better, ok I know this is a little confuse but I hope this help!

@Enigma758 Thank you for your words! Designing circuits is already work, here we try to make it a hobby. Go ahead, if I can help I'm here!

É verdade sim! Originalmente é usado com uma tensão de grlha/filamento de (-24 volts). Eu usei sómente (-9,5) durante grande parte do video e já era perfeito. Com os (-24) fica realmente muito intenso. Originalmente este clock tem como opção um control de brlho com ajuste por potênciometro. O datasheet está na web.

Cara é realmente um lindo relógio, que projeto top! Você é fera, em conseguir fazer essa infinidade de displays VFD funcionar, um mestre no assunto com certeza 🙏

O conhecimento, só tem valor, se ajuda alguém! Eu também conto com ajudas!

Thank you very much Susan, I'm happy to know that you find the video interesting. Thanks!

Thanks a lot by your words! I hope you like also of the next.

@@jlsmonte We eagerly look forward to your next tutorials.

I agree!

mikaelkarlsson9945 Thanks for the comment. I'm also learning and sometimes I get carried away by the things that are at stake on the panel. In this case, there are two errors on the part of the designer, which I try to highlight. The indication of +12 in the screen printing and the exaggeration of the LED circuits. I considered that the rest was covered, the connections through PIC's or the code through comments... until I used the alphabet in the comments as an indicator of segments in the equalizer to make it easier to understand which segments to change. If you tell me what I should deepen to improve further, I would sincerely appreciate it to see if I can grow a little more!

For some reason the translation is not perceptive, can you rephrase it?

Thanks a lot!

@aleksandrmakushin6307, Thanks a lot!

Hey gracias. Siempre es un desafío pero es gratificante.

Hi @localixdots9698, The Google translation for your message is not noticeable by this reason I cannot understand. Can you rephrase the sentence please?

Okay! Okay! I think I understand now. I have these displays and panels because I have been collecting them for years, I have always loved VFDs and I loved using them in my work. Now it's close to retirement time and I'm trying to get the house in order to make space! If you don't use them, they run the risk of becoming trash. As I receive requests for help on these items from other connoisseurs, I try to respond and help where I can. Sorry don't immediately understand the translator of google, and of course I don't know your language.

Pelo menos encontrei estes de paineis diferentes: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pdV9hZx8nNTFYGw.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d82Yo5qXqLjbdoE.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n5ynedh7rLuRemw.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j62WrbSh1LmqkoU.html Espero que ajudem.

@@jlsmonte Muito obrigado José! Sempre ajudando.

Também trabalha com tensão negativa e activa a selecção de grelhas e segmentos de forma convergente. A nivel de commandos tem sómente 4, mas os códigos da familia PT... não funionam neste driver sem ser adaptados claro.

@@jlsmonte Obrigado amigo!

Yes! And truth! I used this trick in the 80's to remove Simm's RAM, but to do so, I need very thin sand and a container with high walls to avoid a more crispy grain projection. I really recommend receiving a thick aluminium walls to harmonize heat distribution

Yes! It's true, but as I say in the video, not everyone has a heat gun or an oven! It's a way to make the impossible possible for some and thus prevent them from giving up!

Jose is an expert in these things and, what's more, this is to make it easier for those who don't have ideal tools.

@@jlsmonte я понимаю, не могу на это смотреть как беспощадно компоненты выпаиваются. Кстати, можно отпаять теплом галогеновой автомобильной лампы)

@@Dancopymus Понимаю, просто методы вредят компонентам.

If we use an aluminum plate thicker than 4~6mm, it will distribute the heat evenly, as well as rise linearly until close to 100º, then rise sharply. This is the +/- what is expected in a board desoldering process where we only want to use the IC. As I said, I have an oven and heat guns, but for those who don't, here's a suggestion! A unsoldering process is not as critical as soldering. If the tin reaches its eutectic point (183º), the component is expected to be loose and just remove it!

Thank you for your words... I don't waste time cleaning up the code, but if any clarification is needed I will help!

Hey, Please tell me how I can help, or what questions you have and I will try to make the matter clearer, ok🙂

No! I don't think so! Perhaps a “scale”, as a comment below from @sebastian19745 suggests, or perhaps a weighted kitchen robot. But I honestly don't know and I hope someone can help us with this!

There really are a lot of people who like this “miracle”!

Hi @svofski, I agree, is cool. And the spinner can be used as a Clock analogic using the pointer to Hour's and minutes.

@@jlsmonte always fun to have VFD stuff blinking :) i have a project (or two) cooking with some leftover VFDs, something like a kitchen clock/weather/something

@@svofski Go ahead! It's fun and ends up being therapeutic! I'm here for something!😀

Hi, Thanks a lot by the question, but honestly, I don't know where it belongs! This is the second panel format I have received for video that uses the same VFD. I'm always hoping that someone will add additional information to recognize the item on their appliances. Maybe an oven, microwave, if I find out I'll let you know, ok.

@@jlsmonte If you look well at the items on the VFD, you clearly can see that this came from a electronic scale.

​@@sebastian19745 Thanks a lot by your alert! At begin I supposed it belongs to a robot of cuisine, they have also the function of weight. But I don't know and I will be glade if any can inform to us the brand and model where it is used!

Thank you very much for your words, they are an encouragement!

@@jlsmonte Keep making us happy!And I wish you only success!

Normally the use is to multi-brands and these VFD's are normally in great demand. And it really has a funny effect.

I'm glad you think my channel is cool!

HI Romano, To avoid mistakes, this is not the answer to your request, ok. This is just a new video. The next week when I'm at Lab's I'll make the diagram for you, ok

Hi "IU2SKV", I don't have a picture of schematic, normally I do it fowling the basic rules, any way I will do a paper/PIC with the connections and power sources points and let it here. Give-me a time to stay at Lab's to do it and I will inform to you, ok

@@jlsmonte thanks

O "acrilico" neste display é usado como meio de propagação da retro-ilumnação pois trata-se de um LCD! Os VFD's são selados a vácuo! Aquela pequena extensão a vidro tipo ampola server precisamente para a finalização do processo de selagem a vácuo. Quando quebram e permitem a entrada de oxigênio para alem do que o ponto colector tolera, ele passa de uma mancha negra (metálica na face do vidro) para um óxido metálico que é branco (tipo pó). Esta observação é um método rápido de verificar se está quebrado ou não! A sua recuperação por muito dispendiosa torna o processo inviável.

Obrigado amigo! É uma pena mas, terei que descartá-lo.@@jlsmonte

Esse código é fácilmente adaptavel para o Arduino, as funções são independentes e não usa Library especificas. As linhas de commando para o Driver são as mesmas!

Mas, eu posso abri-lo na IDE do Arduino? Pois, se bem me lembro, eu li que vc iria adaptar o código diretamente para o Arduino.@@jlsmonte

A adaptação do code para Arduino não é complicada, o uC segue a mesma linha da familia Atmel. Claro que temos MAIN em vez de LOOP, e temos de criar o nosso SETUP. Sim! Após alterações pode ser aberto no IDE Arduino ou o Visual studio da Microchip. Bom trabalho!

Oi Jose! Não sei o que fazer para adaptar o código.@@jlsmonte

Compreendo, mas como costumo dizer: "Quando não gastamos o nosso tempo, estamos a gastar o tempo de alguem". Eu já deixo o código o mais "básico" possivel para facilitar, parece-me que o que falta é talvez inscrever-se num curso de programação C para o Arduino. Força aí!

Primeiro que tudo, se o filamento queimar deixa de estar "esticado" como é o seu normal... assim sendo cai e encosta nos segmentos e grelhas sendo visivel à vista desarmada. Trata-se de um fio à base de tungstênio tambem conhecido como wolfrâmio! Em Portugal era extraído das minas da "Panasqueira" próximo da Covilhã. Usando uma fonte de alimentação regulada podemos testar o filamento subindo lentamente a tensão até o ver acender (ficar de cor alaranjada), O VFD deve estar totalmente desligado do restante circuito para fazer este teste.