Having a BA in commercial photography and communications, I come at KZfaq like I approach sitcoms on TV.
@SeimstudiosКүн бұрын
Having a Masters in Photography and 15 years teaching experaince I don't really know what you're getting at lol
@robertbastian90012 күн бұрын
There's some useful information here but it is too simplified and generalized. The "color drop method" is just one of many techniques to edit color but it will not "Improve ALL photos" as the title claims. What about landscapes? If I take digital photos in Redwood National Park, can I improve my capture by darkening the greens and dialing back the oranges? Not likely. That might resemble a "film look" but what film? Not one that most photographers would want. De-saturated redwood bark and ferns buried further into the shadows isn't what we're after. Back in the film days, I might have chosen a landscape chrome to do exactly the opposite. Velvia for example, was hugely popular with professionals. When I took special photos of my kids or a wedding, I learned to choose a pro portrait film optimized for skin tones (Caucasian tones more specifically). With film, you had 24-36 shots on a roll and a single ISO. If you didn't know about different professional film types, you probably shot an all-purpose Kodacolor or Fujicolor variant which also were prone to over-saturated skin tones. And unless you shot and viewed slides, the final product--the print--had a look potentially more dependent on the paper it was printed on and the quality of the chemistry the lab used than the negative film. Modern RAW captures offer a huge color gamut never available on film. So, good point here--how do you optimally edit that for a good image? There's no single answer. Most software gives you options to start off with a certain look. In Lightroom, one of the first UI controls in the Basic Develop panel is the Profile drop-down. There, you can choose portrait, landscape, and other options as a STARTING point, then go to the color mixer and other panels for fine tuning.
@SeimstudiosКүн бұрын
Not generalized at all. And this will 100% improve you landscapes. We're not talking about having restaurateur color feel, this is all about getting natural color depth. Most the films you mention I shoot and study and have film profiles that match them almost exactly in my Filmist pack. What I'm showing here will work on any image and the other videos in this series connect to that. Once you start using color drops everything changes.
@sebastiang71832 күн бұрын
You are correct on Luminar. They have run around like headless chickens changing stuff drastically. Luminar 3 is different than Luminar 4 and then Luminar Neo is even more different. This company needs to come up with a solid direction and refine the software instead of changing it drastically making it buggy and confusing.
@m4rcin8473 күн бұрын
Got 1000% working solution - Dont buy Fuji
@Seimstudios20 сағат бұрын
All cameras exhibit this. It's just noise.
@dmystify13813 күн бұрын
sooo,where do you stand with the colour science of any given camera.i.e Leica or even Hasselblad..are You shooting Fuji ?..then again Nikon has a different colour science altogether...or are you saying the editing software is oversaturating without 'authorisation'..?
@Seimstudios3 күн бұрын
I test on all types on RAW files and in general they are not that far apart. Things like greens tend to be strong on most sensors. But yes I would say all editing software lead us to push up saturation to far. Though often it's the photographer doing it because understanding of color theory is not taught.
@ArrKayCee3 күн бұрын
It's always nice to be reminded of subjectivity, like I was while watching this. I really don't like the look of the images you used as examples, I would personally never edit a photo to look like any of the ones you showed in the first 3min. Does that mean they're bad pictures, or that you're a bad photographer? Nope, but it definitely reinforces the fact that opinions and tastes very by a lot. The advice itself is good, just thought it's interesting how wildly different the end product can be while using the same advice.
@PauperJ4 күн бұрын
Blue is sad. Bright yellow is happy. Three awesome colors together, with an Eagle defending its land against a snake, are; green, white, and red. Dios les bendiga hermano.
@dylan_me4 күн бұрын
nice!
@stillben5 күн бұрын
Thanks my D800 so green
@MaxoticsTV5 күн бұрын
Great stuff!!! Going to try it!
@dezfoto75346 күн бұрын
I often find that reducing the "blue primary" in the calibration section will help produce more neutral and natural looking colours. I usually start there to get a more balanced histogram before moving on to fine tuning the colour in my images.
@Seimstudios6 күн бұрын
Thats good. I used to use calibration in my Filmist presets but have switched to only HSL as it;s more precise. But cal is great if you want to make a setting for a specific camera etc
@gerhardbotha73366 күн бұрын
Darkroom. Use Sigmoid or filmic raw processing. No colour shift. Behaves like film . It’s not digital. Its shit software
@simoncorder98977 күн бұрын
Hi Gavin, I enjoy your videos, thanks for them... blues, yes - next you need to get rid of that purple LED light - Yuk!
@mr.b44447 күн бұрын
They should be sued for for making Capture One Express for Fuji version unusable. It's one thing to not support it anymore but to completely disable it is cruel and unethical.
@andrewhannam.8 күн бұрын
Olympus gets this. The white balance fine tune is two colours, amber and green.
@Seimstudios8 күн бұрын
That useful. But it should be noted that this is not WB and the channels should still be used. WB will change the hue of colors but not it's saturation or luma value as shown here,
@andrewhannam.8 күн бұрын
@@Seimstudioscompletely agree, just mentioned it because Olympus seems to get that those two colours are very important to make better images. Cheers!
@GordonRunklePhoto9 күн бұрын
Well, your Green/Orange tip worked out very nicely indeed, so I'll play with this one! Thanks! 👍
@Seimstudios9 күн бұрын
Enjoy. I was actually like wow this one is almost as important I better record it.
@glecas9 күн бұрын
is this one of those "click-here-to-get-free-stuff-but-signup-first-so-I-can-nag-you-everyday-about-puchasing-my-crap"-type of link?
@Seimstudios9 күн бұрын
You don't need to sign up for anything. I just gave you all the experience needed to make this work. I don't sell any crap. I have more experience than anyone making presets which is why they are guaranteed or still people almost never them. But you can do everything I teach yourself also.
@dmystify13813 күн бұрын
@glecas.....candid...but rude to be quite honest.
@vincentmulder709 күн бұрын
I am using DXO recently on a macbook. What really annoys me is that I cant move files or virtual copies from and to projects. It only copies. Does anyone has a solution (alt, shift + drag doesnt seem to work).
@datfly30349 күн бұрын
FYI ‘technique’ is misspelled in your thumbnail.
@Seimstudios9 күн бұрын
Thanks. I thought I had fixed if before I pusednthe video. But I must have uploaded the wring file 😅
@bosmanka9 күн бұрын
Does filmist2 work in Pixelmator pro?
@Seimstudios9 күн бұрын
Filmist comes with universal LUTs but I dint know if pixelmator supports them. Either way you don't need my presets to do this
@bosmanka8 күн бұрын
@@Seimstudios luts are supported so that’s good news
@4WHEELBIKER9 күн бұрын
Not necessary if you shoot Fuji digital cameras …just use one their film simulations tweaked for pleasing skin tones.
@Seimstudios8 күн бұрын
Well I'm a Fuji shooter so I can say easily that Your statement is only partly true since the Fuji profiles are not real film simulation. They are decent though but you're much better off shooting RAw and adding a film simulation after. Even if I'm using classic neg I;'ll add it in post with a preset not in camera because the quality will be better.
@jonasweiss58179 күн бұрын
You said luminance but chose saturation.
@Paul_Wetor9 күн бұрын
This is really fascinating. I dialed down the green in a test photo and it did look more natural. I Googled an image of a Canon camera sensor diagram and it showed a block of pixels: Red - 9 pixels, Blue - 4 pixels, Green - 12 pixels! No wonder green is so prominent.
@robertharker10 күн бұрын
3 minutes before you got to any useful information.
@Seimstudios10 күн бұрын
Lol. A short 7 minute video that gives you knowledge that no one will teach you in years of photo school but you're uptight about 3 minutes bro. Time top get off TikTok
@DEVUNK8811 күн бұрын
Lol i am so guity
@tomweis119411 күн бұрын
Have you tried or/and reviewed Nitro?
@Seimstudios10 күн бұрын
No I'll check it out
@viktorpaulsen62712 күн бұрын
Very interesting. Some weeks ago I was experimenting with desaturating green.
@Seimstudios10 күн бұрын
It's a game changer
@m3ducraft13 күн бұрын
How do I do this on Capture One? Over there there is no color sliders but a color selection. And if I remember correctly that doesn't change the color channel but the color you see. I might be wrong, please help.
@Seimstudios13 күн бұрын
C1 has HSL. Both basic and advanced where you can select your own color
@mfs6278914 күн бұрын
Had a question since you were using Olympus cameras and you can dial down the green and the control panel. Can you do that? Have you tried that and is that better than having to bring it in to Lightroom or any other program where you can just do it in camera?
@Seimstudios12 күн бұрын
I have Fuji and Sony mostly. Most camera you can adjust color in camera but it's not near as preside and it generally wont effect your RAW file as a RAW is RAW and unedited. It usually only effects a JPEG in which case you;'re throwing away most quality and control anyways,.
@squirming_squirrels14 күн бұрын
Often when we think of a “raw image” we’re actually thinking of an image with color correction and gamma applied in accordance to some factory profile that has nothing really to do with what was captured, but rather what the manufacturer considers accurate and appealing. If you look at digital raw files without any color correction applied at all it is overwhelmingly green - to the point it visually appears monochrome. This is because color temperature (and gamma, which is linear directly off the sensor) are applied post-exposure. The green bias is because green is in the center of the visual color spectrum, so by biasing toward green you have the greatest range of color sensitivity regardless of lighting. Likewise the sensor itself (behind the mask) is naturally more sensitive to red and infrared. As a result reds tend to get more exposure. It’s for these reasons I don’t even trust exposure warnings or histograms in camera. They’re wildly inaccurate often pointing to over exposure a solid 1-2 stops under.
@nomadben15 күн бұрын
Finally, some actual good editing advice. Thanks for the video man!
@Seimstudios14 күн бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
@hywel314315 күн бұрын
I don't use Photolab 7, but I do use DXO PureRaw 4 to render the Raw file into a .DNG before making simple edits in Apple Photos using Photomator. The quality of image PureRaw pulls out of the Canon 6D Raw file is exceptionally good using the DeepPrime XD 2 option. First rate rendering, lens distortion, chromatic aberration and lens softness corrections all feature in PureRaw 4, so presumably also in the Elite version of Photolab 7 (?).
@AlecKinnear15 күн бұрын
Instead of digging in and doing the testing properly, you feign not to understand to justify the weak review. If you won't take the time to learn a piece of software, you shouldn't be reviewing it. You can do better. (this is a comment buried in replies above; it should be top-level)
@Seimstudios14 күн бұрын
Nothing weak about my review. Im, an expert in Raw editing. That's why I review software for it. This review is quite fair and not even negative so honestly I don't known what your on about bro.
@AlecKinnear13 күн бұрын
@@Seimstudios Based on this review, you've spent a tiny amount of time with DxO PhotoLab, not opened the manual and have no clue about how PhotoLab presets work. The saddest part is you think you've made an unbiased review, when it's completely Lightroom and C1 centric without much notion of how to do good work in PhotoLab and less idea on how to work efficiently in PhotoLab. Saying you are an expert does not make you an expert, showing expertise makes an expert an expert. Why don't I tell you how to work better in PhotoLab? - I am. Go and work again with the Presets function which is very, very powerful. Create the presets you need and you can start any kind of photo edit very quickly and in the right place. Oh and make sure to customise your toolsets to put the tools you actually use in basic view and in the order you use them. But nothing extra. Tools you use more rarely you can dig out of Light, Colour, Detail, Geometry when needed.
@bamsemh115 күн бұрын
Who doesn't care what platform or device you are using to work on? Adobe. Who only works with a computer and a very few iPads? Everyone else. Being dependent on a computer for working, is like still living in mom's basement.
@Tardsmat16 күн бұрын
I've been learning myself that if you want a color to stand out more, increasing saturation isn't always thr move. Sometimes it will actually look more impactful if you tweak something else like reducing the luminance
@npdady16 күн бұрын
I'm red green color blind... I'm like, what green? 😅
@robertleeimages16 күн бұрын
I can't stand the over saturation of all the in camera picture styles so created my own with 2 of the 3 custom spots with one for landscape and the other for portraits and both are as far negative as can go(-3) and for the most part after a lot of experimenting believe it or not ended up dialed in to a very good starting point and yes I'm aware what you see on the rear is a jpeg but thats what i save images as anyway once fully edited
@IanBFootage18 күн бұрын
Excellent method. Thank you!
@HadleyHope18 күн бұрын
Thanks for the video it was quick but I think when you added the second control point it might have been grouped/linked with the first one since the masked seemed to still show the jumper.
@justinchey228118 күн бұрын
I’d consider myself still an amateur and I’m red-green colorblind but I’ve been addressing my oranges and greens like this for a couple years now so thank you for this much needed ego boost haha
@doctorstrobe18 күн бұрын
No preset can ever "work for every photo" simply because each camera offers different starting points in term of sensor and color gamut (not just color balance). The best you can achieve is a color profile (not a preset) that could work for a specific combo of sensor/lens. This is precisely why things such as color targets exist. And no, a mere shift of the sliders or color balance won't be enough. The kind of results you want to achieve require some tools such as 3D LUT creator using that kind of procedure kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bMuikrN6nb7Vpn0.html.
@heliopijpe18 күн бұрын
When you apply color theory from classical painting, to photography, you can think in terms of depth, yellows and greens, blues and oranges, how and why we perceive things the way we do from a distance. The more information you pile on,, the more cluttered and 2D it will appear. The color wheel applies to photo images too when editing. In the sense that, color influences composition and vice versa, And how you can create more depth without making something look fake. You have to also take into account the character of your camera sensor and color science (I do) some cameras have nice blues with some magentas, some have terrible greens etc,,(I have different camera's for different type of images) but indeed, you build up from less to more, from background to foreground ... I do alot using luminescence, exposure, contrast, highlights, whites, curve (and perhaps a dial or two in the camera itself) to get a workflow going. ... now for B&W if do use presets or film styles,, because I'm not very good at consistently tuning and being aware, of what to look for, and to get the most out of each image, it's hard, the way information presents itself in tone values and contrast , I always doubt myself ,,, I can apply basic correction of course, but to get a consistent style and workflow and shoot beautiful images (you need a camera also with nice transition and microgradation) ,, anyway :-)
@zerek4419 күн бұрын
YOUR PICTURE MUST LOOK LIKE FILM, DO NOT TAKE ADVANTAGE OF DIGITAL SENSORS AND RAW COLOR DATA!!!! THAT IS WRONG AND UNLESS YOUR PHOTOS LOOK LIKE BOUDOIR PINUP TRASH YOUR PHOTOS NEED TO BE DELETED
@Seimstudios19 күн бұрын
Lol, nice use of all caps but this video is not about making your photos look like film. It's just a bout understanding basic color control ;)
@zerek4419 күн бұрын
@@Seimstudios your photos look like jum and I hate this video. It’s bad info and your photos looks like everyone else’s which is borning. You should actually max out the saturation and vibrancy like you’re a high oompa loompa eating to many of those dastardly everlasting gob stoppers that slugworth (the villain of the movie) wanted so badly. Funny thing is my favorite movie of all time speed racer never used color grades at all the whole film was shot like that, because it was film 100 percent practically. I think my sandwich is done hold on
@fotokozlowski19 күн бұрын
Why You didn't mention a word, about C1 one of best features, which is: linear response film curve (where You have access to all DR from Your sensor), and luma curve??
@fotokozlowski19 күн бұрын
Oh, and I forget to put "levels" to the lost of the best features in C1
@Seimstudios19 күн бұрын
Both C1 and LR have a basline curve that looks about the came. Curves are generally more useful I would argue. But yes it's great that C1 has levels. C1 has some things LR does not and LR has even more things C1 does not. Both process with the same quality. In the end use what you like.
@SevernBeach19 күн бұрын
How do you do this in Gimp ?
@Seimstudios19 күн бұрын
Hmm. I don't think Gimp has RAW style HSL slider as it's not a raw editor. But you can do mostly the same using Hue and Saturation.
@SevernBeach17 күн бұрын
@@Seimstudios Thanks. Just installed DarkTable and using the Colour Equaliser seemed to do the same trick. Thanks for the inspiration. SB.
@salty_commuter81919 күн бұрын
Is there a way to do this in camera...so that it becomes a SOOC thing instead of post editting? I have a Sony A7III....
@Seimstudios19 күн бұрын
I would always prefer a preset in post as in camera is a lot harder to refine. But depending on the camera you probably could apply this idea a little in custom color setting but not to this extent.
@MinoltaCamera19 күн бұрын
HSL has a huge problem: it doesn't know how to mix colors, it is so selective with green that if you have an out-of-focus background where green grass and cyan water mix, HSL will break the transition zone, generating two perfectly defined blocks of color. It is extremely unnatural and ruins the whole point of the tool. They are like Clarity halos, but with color instead of light.
@Seimstudios19 күн бұрын
This has nothing to do with focus and only do with how the color transition to another tone/ The key is to balance the slider above and below. This happens more in advanced or custom color in LR. You have to be careful how you feather off the color transition. I deal with this in the extreme in Filmist presets and spend hours tinkering to dial it in to work on any image.
@MinoltaCamera19 күн бұрын
@@Seimstudios I hope you can make a video or short talking about this problem and how to deal with it. Because I like your video, but I see this problem when I try HSL in my photos
@clarkallen161919 күн бұрын
Hello Seim, I appreciate the tips. If you ever get the time labeling the videos that apply to shooting film would be extremely helpful. Thank you
@jamesmorrall20 күн бұрын
I literally discovered this by accident this morning colour correcting a digital render of people in a forest. I took down the orange a little and the green a lot and suddenly it looked real. It’s brilliant.