Take off the door panel and check the connecting rod is still adjusted correctly. Then check all the electrical connectors on the lock. If no joy try swapping the two front door locks to see if they both work.

@@johnnysevengun thanks for your reply. My biggest issue is the door is closed and wont unlock. I gain access to the car using the passenger door. For me to access the door lock. I'll need the door open right?

Do you mean you can't open the door from inside with the door handle? If so it could be the cable and the adjuster rod is damaged or pulled out of place. You may have to cut the door card to get at the mechanism. Fortunately secondhand door cards are really cheap on ebay if you are in the UK. £25-45.

@@johnnysevengun yes. It's locked shut. This has happend before and I had to climb in through the passenger door for a good week to get to the driver's side. Then I hit a bump when I was driving and all the warning light on the dashboard went on the car lost power. I proceeded to disconnect the battery and left it over night. The next day it was back to normal when I reconnected the battery and the the driver door could unlock. I figured I when I hit the bump i disturbed the sensors or something. I didnt lock the driver side door for a few days. Then when I did. It was working again for a while. But it seems I have ran into the same problem again. The door is locked shut and only the other three doors open. I'm thinking there must be a hard reset for the door locks. The battery disconnecting didnt work this time. My car is a Jaguar xtype 2002 model

Have you thought that the bump just readjusted the mechanical part of the lock? It really sounds like the connecting rod or cable is not connected properly. Even if the actual lock is not working the inner handle should open it.

The oil in the transfer box and diff is recommended for change at 65K - but remember that is for a relatively new car. Our cars are old now and the oil will have either degraded or evaporated. I would change the oil in both to be safe. If the noise continues it could be the propshaft bearing (the one in the middle of the car) needs some external lubrication like WD40. Otherwise I am afraid it will be your suspension rubbers gradually degrading. I did a video on changing the oil in the transfer box. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hNCCn7uTt8upqHk.html

@@johnnysevengun Thanks for the reply! I did change the transfer box oil in 2017 - when I first obtained the car as I knew that was an achilles heel of this car. The crazt thing that gets me is usually with a bad differential, you would hear it at low speeds also which I don't. I only hear this noise when first hitting the highway and getting up to about 60 mph...and then after a few minutes it goes away and does not return after the car is warmed up. Is the propshaft bearin the one you can use a needle to shoot oil into?

@@daddylogan I think people do that. I just spray it with WD40 or equivalent.

This great advice as a Toyota Filter is about £2.50 and a OEM one about £11.50.

Still working 4 years later.

Probably not - the metal is too soft and the gun might explode. One of the commenters said he was going to convert one to blackpowder but I don't know how that went.

If you go to 2.00 on this video you will see the white connector under the tank. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j6qarLhn08qyfYU.html

I am glad it worked.

Thanks 😅

Did you replace the whole sill? We just cut out the old metal and replaced with thicker steel.

Me too. Not a fan of automatic cars - they are boring to drive.

Probably not as they are sold as Front or Rear sets. My 1987 model has a rear drum brake so has a pair of brake shoes instead of pads and a disc.

Good luck. Heat is your friend.

No. But I will now. Thanks.

I think the quality is much poorer than the original issue. The first one lasted nearly 30 years. The split one in this video not even five.

@@johnnysevengun I used the Ks mainly for courier work so I guess it was inevitable that any weak spots would be found out quickly

I am glad it helped. That is what the videos are for.

No. Petrol only.

That is the main loom coming from the fuse box. You can buy second hand ones quite cheaply but I would try to dry it out and clean it with contact cleaner first.

It is this video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rLaKa6eZvZ2do2Q.html

The tank cost about £30 and the coolant was about £15.

I have had mine three years now and done 3000 miles. The only thing i had to do was change the fuel inlet pipe and O rings in the T-piece as they had rotted.

Good to know it works and was not a fluke.

The only problems I have had was 1. No-starting with the sidestand switch which I have now deleted. 2. The O rings to the Tee piece in the fuel line into the twin carbs leaked when I changed the rotted fuel pipe and I had to take them apart to replace with 50p worth of O rings.

Whatever works. I've done this four times now.

@@johnnysevengun The tensioner mounting bolt isn't designed to be for that, hence an 8mm, best practise is using the 15mm and if the tensioner is that stiff it needs replacing?

Well done for restoring a great bike. You should look at BMW-K motorcycles K1 k75 k100 k1100 (purists) Facebook page for help and resources. The files section has a lot of original tech notes.

Look out for broken or worn out parts.

@@johnnysevengun I got mine on may 9th 2024

@@getaway63 If you mean it is brand new - i would send it back.

@@johnnysevengun ok

As I have written before and say in the video - I think because the Bonnie has so much low end torque that you end up with more acceleration and the lower revs cruising. Whatever way everyone seems to have done it with these great bikes.

Still going at over 150000 miles.

I did a video on how to reset the aircon. It involves testing the blending doors. It may be worth a try. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eM14pa-S35ilo5s.html

@@johnnysevengun Thanks, I'll see if that helps me

Sounds like a good bike. I specifically wanted an old school Bonneville with carbs and air cooling but with electronic ignition and no oil leaks. I also have a 1987 BMW K75 which is water cooled, fuel injected, ECU controlled ignition which is what the Triumph became 30 years later. I read about a lot of electrical problems with the fuel injected Bonnevilles - especially their inability to start with even a slightly flat battery. Carbs have the benefit of being easy and cheap to service and seldom go wrong without an obvious explanation.

As far as I can tell the tank is in the same position relative to the seat pan.

Thanks very much.

Changing the fuel pump is easy and costs less than £30 if you have some simple hand tools. See my video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/odJgatVmr62lfmQ.html. If the oil pan gasket has gone there are a few KZfaq videos on how to get it off with minimal work.

@@johnnysevengun TY for your comment. I’d seen videos on the gasket and the DIY fuel pump. But 78, 1200 miles from home not the most viable alternative. But if I was home maybe😊

Good luck - you don't need to get under the car to take off the starter motor.

I know but initially i was going for tightening the flexplate bolt, then suddenly no more crank just a click a super hot battery lead. So i think of three option: flexplate blocking, seized engine, seized starter. Because the crank pulley near the passenger side, i cannot turn it it dont move. But i love the advendure, way out from my confort zone and totally love that cat

I don't think so. Diesel pumps are normally driven by the engine and will be under the bonnet and is a big lump. www.ribblevalleydiesels.co.uk/product/p4143/

Good idea. Neodymium magnets are great too.

If cleaning the nozzle with a needle does not work you may have to dsconnect the pipe to see if it is blocked or kinked. if it is not then the fitting is broken inside the car and needs to be replaced.

I expect the S Type is the same as the X Type. All you need to do is pair the key. Rusty Skull does a good video on how to do it. You may need to have few goes though as I found out when I changed the circuit board. If correctly paired there should be no problems. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r7CXo5qTtK3Lnqc.html

The bow only cost £90 so I guess a good bow shop could find a replacement. I can't see me ever wearing it out.

It took about 2 hours per side. But remember you can adjust the cable with the turnbuckle and also check that the levers on the rear calipers are not sticking. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j593ZMKYuJnZlWg.html

@@johnnysevengunThank you, I will check the caliper levers tomorrow morning regards sticking per your video posted. i am a bit afraid of getting under the car with jack stands on the rear to tweak the turnbuckle as shown on your video. Once again Thanks for your videos they really help.

@@edy-str You only need to jack it up on one side at the front to reach the turnbuckle.