Umm, I can't tell if you are teasing me on purpose :) or if I am just reading in your sarcasm accidentally ... I do and say enough on this channel worthy of mockery ... I am not sure if you are offering up a great moment of humbling for me, or if you really have a request here... If you are serious, and there is something you "can't see", I will see what I can do to fix for future videos. If this is a moment of humor, I can for sure fix the "get farther away" for you... :)

I understand your side. I work for a group that supports financial and government policy makers that all insist destruction instead of reuse. The need for certain levels of assurance are sometimes out of our hands. This video is how I destroy the drives that I have to destroy. Those that can be reused are certainly saved for use again :)

@@badideametals I work for military and government with data security, even IBAS can't recover a single thing on the hard drive with the right erase tool that rewrites the disk bios and changes the rotation in hard drive and overwrites with zeros and changes the rotation again to ordinary and overwrites one more time with zeros. On SSDs, the chips are swapped and overwritten with zeros and swapped several times. The SSD Bios has been upgraded after solid deletion and can be used completely again. Yes, the disks can be sold as brand new disks, that's how good the technology we use in Norway has come.

As I said, I understand your side too. My signed agreements with the owners of the drives says is that the drives are destroyed. As a former CIO of a small business, I know there is always more then one "good way" and often a better way then what we have implemented. However, to get the contract (or in this case, the agreements), sometimes we have to do things their way... and in this case, they have asked for drives to be destroyed. So I made a video explaining the process I use when I am asked to destroy the drives.

The solution was left to sit for a year, and there was no change. Not even the solution changed colors. Sadly, weak piranha solution is not a viable option.

@@badideametals thanks for quik answer

:) a teaser for next video… these are DDR2/3/4 IC Chips getting burned so I can get all the gold out … they are finishing their refinements next week. I am excited to show it all off.

I still like mine, but one a little bigger would have been nice :)

@@badideametals for sure I looked at the one you got, then seen vevor just released a nice looking one that basically the same for half the price. I am just using mine for annealing marbles so it's good enough size for now but plan on building my next one. Kilns are Wayyy to expensive for what they are. I'm glad your is working out and still kicking, fingers crossed mine does the same

Once I got moved used to how to program the kiln, it is pretty nice. It is a little small though. But if the size does not bug you, I like it enough to recommend it.

Thanks ✌️

Some people do sell them already assembled. These are good for sealing food and material that you want to keep dry. We keep rice and flour in bins like these in a food storage, as well as in our pantry. I was surprised at how difficult they are to put together when they are sold separately. There were enough videos showing how to jump on them to seal them, that it implied that a number of people have trouble getting these together. When I got the first 2 together in just a few minutes, my wife recommended that I do this video. The other ways (like jumping on them) must have some people going to the hospital after the bins squeeze out from under them. I fear for those trying the "acrobatic" approach. I do have some fun videos coming out. I have 3 started ... none finished. I hope to drop all these videos soon :) I can't wait to show everyone what I have been up to this summer.

@@badideametals actually, the method is similar to, how put a lid on a paint can.

It is pretty similar.

It is sad I destroy so much history. Most of what I tear down off camera are Core2 systems and old Power Edge Dell servers ... much of these are so common, many people and companies just drop them into landfill. That is sad for so many other reasons. However, there are some machines that come to be for recycling that I am asked to deconstruct for the benefit of the channel, and for those viewers who are also curious to see how they are constructed. That Dell, I was messing with computer upgrades and building my own before that machine was constructed... however, laptops were hard for my family to come by when they were new back in the late 80s to mid 90s. I bought my first computer in 1991, and upgraded it after I sold my drums and walked away from the band I was in at the time in favor of computer graphics and animation... huh, that was so long ago. And laptops were for the rich. So, that was the first time I have ever looked in a Dell that age. And those Compaqs too for that matter. To your point, those proprietary modules such as RAM and other add-ons are sometimes very hard to find. I will keep the boards and see if there is any value in a re-use market instead of a recycle market. Thank you for your comment.

@@badideametals At least you make the best of it by filming it.

Added: I just looked over the Dell board. You are correct. It is a 386. NG80386SX-20

I like to turn the circuit boards into trophies as well… most of the time, the systems come to me with cracks and holes, stains and missing parts… the boards inside are usually still clean and worth putting in A-frame displays. But hey, I can’t save everything either :) … some things get torn apart for the silver and sometimes gold… like these. I am saving that 486 though. That was a rare find.

@@badideametals I was gifted an 'amdahl 470 memory module', from the late '70s, that I consider a SUPER trophy. I plan to make a video about.

I look forward to seeing it :)

This represents about 800 to 1000 random computer expansion cards. Don’t toss out the black chips… I am doing a video real soon about the gold value in the different ic chips.

Good news… it still works today. Does this update help?

Sodium Hydroxide can cause major irritations which lead to nausea and vomiting, and even necrosis or dying tissues which can be very serious if not treated. When sodium hydroxide turns into a vapor due to boiling, the lye compounds are transported with the evaporating water in the form of steam. It can get in your eyes and burn. But worse yet, it can get in your lungs and do nasty damage. In short, be aware of where and how you are working with Lye. Know how to protect yourself. Masks and eye protections are recommended.

:) I have learned so much since this video. I have also acquired better tools and equipment in general. I do appreciate the insights. I have a new solder mask video coming up in the next month or two.

Oi, vou tratar responder em português :) … Uso HCl pra renovar as folhas. Uso também uma “bubbler” por Oxygen. Oxygen vai ajudar com a reação. Espero que minhas palavras são correctamente. Eu vivei em Recife em 1997 por uma ano. 😬

Obrigado mesmo por ter respondido moro aqui perto do Recife tô começando a com esse tipo de mineração

Estava em Sao Lorenso e Rio Doce. Muito perigroso... estavo um poco loco. Boa sorte com e-waste mineracao. Fica ... um ... "safe" ... e-waste esta muito divertido.

Thank you so much 😁

Thank you

I share the steps in previous videos... but the basics: 1. Soak fingers in HCl for 1 week with O2 injected in with a bubbler 2. Rinse and isolate fingers with water 3. Refine using 3 parts HCl + 1 parts NHO3 until Au is in solution 4. Neutralize with Sufamic Acid 5. Drop Au with Sodium Metabisulfide 6. Rinse and Melt with the help of Borax Those are the steps. The art of refinement is ratios, and filtering. But do be very careful when dealing with acids and heat. Accidents can be fatal. Always understand what can and will happen. Have a plan for when bad things to happen.

Thank you my guy

Dont forget to stir it!!!!

I agree, but I also am not a big fan for how much more waste fluid I have to store in my stock bin it causes. The volume at the end is my reason to leave it concentrated most times. I am about to release a video that took me 2 weeks to do where I add 50% more water to the solution before doing the AR and SMB. But yes, more water does have its advantages.

I don't like to deal with Peroxide. I deal with sulfuric acids in some of my work, and a slip up there can end with a reaction in my face. I opt for the O2 bubbles from a cheap $10 Walmart bubbler. It takes a week, and it gets the job done. To help speed things up, I add a little CuCl. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- CuCl + O2 + HCl + Cu (on the boards) --> CuCl + H2O + H + O2 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- That is all H2O2 (Peroxid) is doing. It is infusing the reaction with O2 faster then ambient air is doing. This is why the reaction will eventually work. The bubbler allows me to know I am not mixing Peroxide with the wrong reactions in my work space. I have added Peroxide to Sulfuric... That was a truly frightening day.

@@badideametals peroxide is food product for supermarkets and chemists lolol and you think drain acid that will eat you to the bone is safer????????? Sulphuric acid well hopefully you know not to put water into it then yes air bubbles work even better with peroxide it just speeds up the process

:) that sounds good to me. I was hopeful for lab grade boards and more copper or brass. But you are correct… expect less and you will be happy to find something :)

Well, that is unfortunate. I don't check for functional things most of the time as I am a scrap yard and recycle facility first and a tech company last. But still, it is a little sad to know a board is worth more then scrap. Thank you for letting me know :)

@@badideametals I routinely buy items from scrappers before they scrap to try to salvage parts out of them, as a retro computer repair tech, a lot of these parts are starting to get hard to find, What you had pulled out is a "PC104 Single Board Computer" , they all look the same , its a standard size, the little board you popped off is a IDE Drive, Sold listings on ebay show pretty good value, Totally understandable, I have a local scrapper that now has me look at things before he goes full ape on it.

Not sad. You're a recycler. Never mind the bs@@badideametals

Thank you my friend. I get enough negative comments and emails about what I do. I am trying to keep waste from going to landfill. It pays me a little bit, but not as much as people think. Being "Green" has a ton of costs all in the name of keeping our environment more liveable ... I am glad I can help... but it does not make me rich. If anything, this hobby takes time away from my kids and my wife. That puts pressure on my relationships there too ... 4 years of doing this, and I have honestly considered just doing it quietly and not on YT. But I find so many fun things that I like to share what I see with others. Thank you again @Williammiller6043

@@badideametals i wouldn't stop, i get flack all the time for my YT/Twitch, haters will hate, always fun to take stuff apart.. at least its not landing in a landfill.

That would make sense with all the high voltage warning stickers on the casing of that ozone generator. The first thing I thought of when I saw it was a standard capacitor. They charge up and store charge until it is needed.

The orange cylinder is likely a coaxial flash lamp tube or mercury vapor lamp. That machine looks overly complex for what it does.

Machine number two, a lot of those little valves and such are worth a lot more than scrap. That machine looked like a column heater organizer unit for a really old GC machine.

@@christopherleubner6633 as I know little of what was handed me, I appreciate the help understanding this tech.

The prices for the black clips were better on eBay, so I got the individual cell wraps and the entire battery wrap there too.

I get blasted a little in the comments for posting my first attempts on KZfaq. I don’t regret doing it personally. I learn from the helpful commenters. But yes, t takes a bit get comfortable with the process. Rule one: safety first. This is a process that kills and permanently injures people. So know the risks and have a plan as you look into trying this. Also, start with small quantities… you will lose stuff either to errors in filtration, ratios, mixing, spilling… keep your waste liquids for a little while if you can. The gold may still be in there to some degree. :) and good luck

Is “goof off” an auto correct? I know of “goo gone” but not goof off. I will have to look. Lye is pretty harsh stuff. It would be fun to try other solutions.

Let me see what I can do :) thanks for the feedback

That is a great idea. And I will get one to you! As we get closer to doing that, I will reach out. Thank you :)

That is pretty interesting :) They were fun to play on, and fun to investigate inside.

They also have lots of competition around me. I am always looking for more sources.

He does a great job. His focus is just a little different then mine. And from what I have seen of his, he only jumps into computer scrap a few times. Really fun guy to watch. Good to see others are eager to share his channel :). That makes me happy. Thank you for checking out this video.

Sreetips*

True, that is his channel name.

@@badideametals yes was just correcting the original comment in case anyone wanted to see what they were talking about. Great video btw I've been considering depopulating all my PCBs the same way.

This process did do 2 unexpected things for me. 1. I no longer need to intentionally "make" SnCl (Staneous Chloride) as it is now an unexpected product of reusing my CuCl (Copper Chloride) to do the depop. All too often, I find my SnCl has "expired" to exposure or I just use it up, and get lazy to make more. Problem no longer. 2. I no longer have to recover my Copper from CuCl using Iron. I saw the copper recovery as a waste of Iron just to get the Copper to precipitate out of CuCl. I want the dirty Copper back for use in other reactions and processes that I have. Funny, now I don't need to find a way to dispose of my Ferrous Chloride (FeCl) since I will no longer be making any :) In short, I have found this takes a bit of time... admittedly, I could have depoped the chips off and other surface mount stuff faster. The clipping of fingers give me blisters ... so I don't miss that. But in general, this process is slower. But I am seeing less negatives overall. And ... it is scalable. I would have to have more of me if I still scraped them off by hand, and clipped the fingers. This way, I just set out a new bucket when I want more to get done faster. It does cost me more HCl eventually (when I want to do the fingers... that needs clean HCl or CuCl). Thank you for your comment. Stay safe in your work too. This can be rewarding. And you probably already know this,... it can be dangerous in an instant.

I should reach out. His knowledge and experience is deeper then mine. I doubt he has time for a small fish such as me and my channel. His work tends to be more along the lines of gold plate liberating, encortation and refinement processes and some of the more traditional recovery methods. He does branch out to eWaste and computer scrap from time to time. I don't know if he is interested in what I do on my channel. But to the point of several commenters, his understanding of the chemicals and how they react is pretty deep. And it makes sense to me now that the introduction of Sn (tin) would behave in a similar manner to Fe (iron) to pull the copper from the CuCl. I just did not expect it before it happened that first time. Thank you for your recommendation. Sorry it took a day to see your comment. The YT interface did not let me see it until 10 minutes ago. I am glad it did eventually show up though.

@@badideametals I'm sure he would be happy to answer any questions you have. He always seems quite responsive. Best of luck. Love what you are doing

Oooo, I am intrigued. I appreciate the watch, and the sub! Thank you so much. I will keep going on these. New technology will be interesting to see. Thank you my friend.

:) That is sound advice. Thank you.

Smoke? I think you are referring to incineration. And yes, there are advantages to the incineration method (Also known as ASHING). Using acids is known as WET ASHING ... which in my opinion is not better. My experience with both methods have bad consequences, explained here: 1. Wet Ash uses acids that burn cloths, and lungs, eyes ... basically, organic material must give way to the caustic and corrosive nature of the acids used. It uses heat and endothermic reactions which can break glass wear, run out of control easily and without warning. The waste water after rinsing off the acids must be managed correctly and not just dumped out somewhere. This way makes the biggest mess, and has the most risk. 2. Ashing requires the chips to be burned to a powder which gives off smoke that is carcinogenic and harmful ecologically. Maybe less so then the effects of acidic waste even after the acids are neutralized. Ashing requires high heat such as a fire or furnace which burns fuels and can be costly. The rinse process uses a lot of water which must be filtered, and takes a long time. Wet ashing was a hope to speed up the process, but in my opinion, it takes just as long. Once the gold is separated from the chip casing, it is really easy to refine, and has not been contaminated by other acids or chemical compounds. In short, I like Ashing better. This video was one of my first experiences wet ashing. I have already promised myself and all my ruined shirts that hot acid, especially those used in wet ashing, is something I will never deal with again :)

@@badideametals Thank you. 😊 good information. I am burning in small batches with oxy ac set up. The off fume is minimal at those temps the chips are seeing. The ash is easy. It’s carbon. I don’t see very well others really showing much on disposal and makes me fear that they are dumping acids down the toilet which is wrong to be doing. Anyways, sitting in old ap the amount is half of what was left of the burnt chips. I goin make hydrochloric acid and bleach solution, bust out the gold and silver, then do actual ar with nitric. Bust it out, HC bath, save that for my AP. There is this KZfaq vid. Let me get it.

@@HellHoundOne you have a good process there. That is what I do now too. I have found recently that I can reuse my copper chloride from other reactions to strip chips as the tin swaps places in the CuCl. I like your reuse of AP. Once the chips are rinsed off, I cook them. Have fun and be safe :)

Did you remove the comment I posted of the old mans video?

I am using this: www.walmart.com/ip/Clear-Rust-Oleum-American-Accents-2X-Ultra-Cover-Matte-Spray-Paint-12-oz/965292579?athbdg=L1600&from=/search It is a Clear Coat - Matte (UV Resistant / Anit-Yellowing) spray paint. I am not sure if I remember if it is Acrylic or Polypropylene ... the product does not say. It claims to be a clear coat / hardened shield against damage. That sounds like acrylic to me. But I just don't remember what the can said. The current online product information is not very helpful. I hope that answers your questions. Thank you for watching, and commenting :)

Many thanks!