Hope it helped. How to or how not to. Either way, I hope it helped!

Ultimately I really don't know. ended up shot gunning it. Changed the steering to a currie setup, thinking possibly the tie rod was flexing. Changed the track bar for a 3rd time, because the bushing was wore from it death wobbling. And bought new tires because they shop was having a hard time balancing them.

For the once a decade, I paint a car I'm pretty sure I'll live.

I did. I really don't have a smoking gun for you, though. I took the tires to get re balanced, and they couldn't be balanced they were that out, which sucked because they were brand new. So, 4 new tires. I had grand cherokee tie rod and drag link. That was good but may have been too flimsy for the 35's so currie correct a link was installed. The track bar "was" new, but from the death wobble it wore out the bottom bushing. So a Clayton weld on drop bracket track bar was installed. So yes, it's fixed. I have been dailying it for a few months. But I guess it was bad new tires.

@@coalcrackeroffroadadventur7899 oh man. That really sucks. Glad you got it fixed.

Thanks.

Back floor is still pretty perfect. I just scuffed and hurculined.

No secret i just didn't think anyone would care $1,200

Better tools definitely make it easier, not necessary but way easier lol. older vehicles the torch is a go to though.

At one point I swapped in rubicon express 5.5" springs in the front and the ride hight was 1½" lower. So right about 6½ to 7". I may actually buy the MC 3.5" for the rear to take the rack out of it. It sits a lot higher in the rear.

I took it to an alignment shop after the lift was installed. since then I checked the toe myself and it was toed out pretty bad like like 3/16" I moved it to 1/8th toe in. I have tried castor from +3.5 to +6 it makes no difference. I haven't went to 7 yet maybe I'll try that this weekend. This weekend I'm planning on removing the 1" engine mount lift. I was thinking back to when I first put it together it didn't death wobble and thought what changed. the last thing I remember doing is raising the engine for a better drive angle. I have no idea how that could cause death wobble but I'm fresh out of ideas so I'll try anything.

@@coalcrackeroffroadadventur7899 Definitely try and get Maximum caster angle out of the front As long as your front driveshaft is happy also it’s a very very thin line between the caster and pinion angle trust me when you get the caster right there could be no way for the front axle to death wobble.

@@devenreal another friend was telling me less castor because of the tire size? It didn't make sense to me, but as i said I'll try anything at this point. That's when I went to +3.5

@@devenreal more castor was not the answer lol! Went to 7ish it was the most violent yet.

@@coalcrackeroffroadadventur7899 There’s no way. Positive caster is what eliminates all of the wobble in the steering / road wandering when it’s set right the jeep will drive down the highway at 80 with one finger on the wheel even hitting bumps. With Negative caster will it cause the Jeep to wander and feel darty on the road handling will be awful and you will be always compensating for the bumps and divots in the road caster is always the solution after checking for play in the steering

Thanks

like a lifted TJ. They aren't as good as the hype. They do give you way more lift then what other companies springs do. They are so long you need a compressor to get them in. but as far as ride I think they are stiffer then the 4" rough country I had on my last jeep.

yea when I was priming I just forgot about it. I'm still used to lacquer primer. I remembered for the most part when I was painting. getting all those fish eyes made me loose my nerve a bit I may have forgot at some point lol. Thanks for the comment!

I went with 4 just for the most flex, I'm will to deal with less ride quality. the front is a Rubicon express just because I had a new one laying around from another project. The rear is a Steinjager because it was cheap and I was running out of money and it was double adjustable.

thanks for the comment. 4 wheel drive

no it did not. Just a noise and eventually the brake pedal started pushing back at me.

Thank you! that's why I left the fish eyes in. I really contemplated omitting that from the video and not looking like I struggled, But I figured that if I can help one guy not make the same mistakes it was worth looking like a goof. lesson learned wash your rags first or what I ended up doing was buying a box of shop towels.

I used Sherman Williams dimension paint SA-5351518-A anvil gray 2013-20 jeep code PDS. That is what is wrote on the can. It was purchased at NAPA.

@@coalcrackeroffroadadventur7899 Thanks! Your jeep looks awesome!

Thanks Christian!

I'm pretty sure they are pro comp wheels. 15x8

no sir this is the front wheel bearing. you need some specialty tools, and a little knowledge for the rear wheel bearing. If you have never had a rear apart before I would recommend taking it to a shop or a friend that has. The axles have to be removed from the housing. bearings and seals replaced in the housing if it's a 10bolt the 12 and 14 bolt chevys are different.

Thanks I hope you enjoy. I have been at a stand still since like March. I moved to a different house. getting the old house ready, packing, moving, and now working on the new property have taken precedent. hopefully soon though

this is all I used. I went back and fine tuned after cycling the suspension with the springs and shocks out. dialed in the pinon angle, measured for bumps etc. it's all in my next video that I haven't published yet lol. www.google.com/search?q=jeep+wrangler+control+arm+length+chart&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj4lPf5suvxAhWNLc0KHWUHAqkQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=1920&bih=955#imgrc=OAtV9t4Kxyp13M&imgdii=xHduHoedM9sfLM

36mm was way to loose, I had one. Your right on the torque specs. but would rather get it apart in the future then have it be a permanent part of the vehicle when it's time to replace anything else. Ihave been dealing with north east rust my whole life and have learned anti-seize everything....and I re-used the old aviation axle nut in case you missed that. I'm a rebel like that!

The drivers side wheel bearing is getting stiff and needs to be replaced at 150k. The video I did the passenger side. It actually made me think of your comment. The passenger side that I did now has a bit over 90k on it and still feels great. The factory one I replaced had 60 on it when I replaced it. I guess my lack of care for torque specs didn't hurt a thing! lol.

Your better off anyway. All the patch panels they sell are thin covers that go over the rocker. You would have to put a bunch of filler in to make it look half way presentable.

that sucks. if you can't get that off your going to have fun getting the unit bearing off to. Breaker bar and a really long pipe with a pry bar between the studs to the ground is the next move. after that is heat.

I always try to use Timken. SKS is also good. I ordered Timken off rock auto for this Job, because they were available and cheaper than NAPA

Thanks! It works well

No. I'm not, not even a little. I'm using a wire wheel not a grinding wheel. I'm controlling the speed and pressure. you just need to be careful. don't lean on the die grinder, and keep it moving. I have been doing this for years and never ruined anything.

Just be patient. Don't rush anything, Heat is your enemy.

Thanks! That's what I was going for. I tried to cover the whole thing the best I could while keeping the videos short-ish.

Go ahead rub it in! One of my brothers moved south 30plus years ago he forgets the plight. You also have to take into consideration the vehicle swallowing pot holes in PA. I travel every summer and I always know when I'm back in PA because immediately after I see the welcome sign I hit a giant pothole that rattles my whole vehicle Nice job on the 6 string I play a little myself.

Shit 85k on on my 2015 1500, already had to replace both front bearings....

@@lifteddreams9714 My 17 has a humming when driving coming from the front end. I already replaced the Drivers ABS sensor but didn't think the bearings would go at 105k. But i guess they do. I just ordered 2 Timken replacements.

I also run a 2015 with under 90,000 on it and think I should do the bearing replace too. @@lifteddreams9714

good thing you didn't watch my primer video then lol!

thanks! I used 18ga. and my girl works at a fab shop soooo it was a favor for the steel and the bends in it.

What brand springs did you use? Or was it a long arm?

Honestly it was making a very faint noise for about a year, but I really didn't pay to much attention to it figuring it was a tire or something. Then a few weeks before I changed the bearing, I noticed that the brake pedal was pushing back at me. I figured the rotors were warping and was going to look into it. But it got really loud before then, I pushed on my wheel and could move the wheel and tire. SO I guess how bad is the noise and is there play in the wheel. I waited way longer then I should have!

@@coalcrackeroffroadadventur7899 i have an issue hearing a grinding noise when i turn on my 17 silverado ball joints are good

@@OhDatsJohnny my first guess is brakes. but without hearing it or driving it. It's just a guess

Lower control arms are like 130ft.lbs honestly I just make them tight I run them down with the impact gun. The uppers I think are 85ft.lbs I tighten them with a ratchet. An impact will strip them lol.

Thanks! When I was planning the job, gathering parts and supplies I went on u tube to see if anyone else made a video. I'll I found were people that really didn't know what that were doing making how to videos, or people that did but omitted the little boring things that make it a better job or and easier job.

Must have been giving it a lot of skinny pedal!

I used 18ga matched perfectly

I ordered the same ones. still have them, they are for sale on marketplace right now. I have them listed for $25 for both. I didn't like them. they are way thin maybe 24ga. the bottom is bent on a 90deg. and goes about an inch under the jeep tub. I does not follow the body detail on the very bottom of the rocker. they are meant to cover over the tub and be mudded in. Not butt welded in.

I have started working on it again. Haven't shot any videos. Mostly just finishing the small stuff. CB, stereo, ARB compressor etc. I'm planning on installing the SYE tomorrow. Haven't decided to record or not lol

I thought if you have adjustable arms and bars a SYE wouldn’t be necessary? I just ordered the core T3 and plan to order the metal cloak springs. Please let me know.

Yes it make a rumbling sound in left turns. it would quiet down turning the wheel the right. I started feeling it in the brake pedal then I started to look into it and found the wheel bearing was bad

I actually don't like the look of them at all lol. I went with stock fenders

Awesome! I would tell you how great it is but I have only driven it out of the garage and parked it in the yard lol

Honestly I stopped as soon as I got it rolling. I haven't touched it in months. I never cut the perches. I measured and it would have only bought me a 1/4" I didn't think it was worth the effort. I still haven't measured for bumps. I'll get back to it right after vacation.

I went and cut those perches. Gave me about 2" more droop without the shocks bolted in. I did it for ease of spring removal and installation. The shocks still limit down travel. But it's actual good because without the shocks to limit it. the next thing to hit is the front driveshaft bottoming out.

Thanks! it's a lot of work but worth it.

4.5" metalcloak

Coalcracker Off Road Adventures thanks! I just found you a few minutes ago, so I don’t know if you are driving it yet, but if you are, how is the ride quality?

It's not on the road yet I need an sye. They gave me way more lift then I anticipated. From what I can tell driving around the driveway. It's seems pretty good, but I am going really slow. Front driveshaft only

Yea it was strange. It was a very thin like aluminum foil layer on top rust got under and it started peeling off. I ground the whole top layer away and it was solid underneath. From the underside I don't see any rust.