#1, #2, #6, #7 😊

Hi there, Thanks for your wonderful technical knowledge. But what I need know about and what I observed are your gloves. Those are so compact, Hi, I am Rohan from India. I go to Himalaya every year and each time I struggle with my gloves which never help with the technical work what we do like holding and using an ice axe, some kind of rope work, clipping n unclipping carabiners, zoomar handling and also to deal with the cold temperature with goes from sub 0 to -10 around at 6800 mtrs. the reason is I have very thick and fatty gloves. some times it is very difficult to reattach the crampons when they come off with the thick gloves. please can you help with the model names you are using for mountaineering and ice climbing? Or you can send the link where I can get it online. I'll be very grateful if you recommend a pair of gloves. Thank you.

Looks heavy. Do people often carry 2 grigri in those situations?

Growing the stache and chops from scratch 🤙 thanks for the informative video !

I’d rather focus on making sure one thing goes right then struggling to make two things go right…. Idk tho

I do take a pas since I lead not top rope so don’t know what’s at the top. Sometimes untying is required, I have never seen a mussy hook in the countries I climb in. I learned lead immediately not top rope so perhaps I am missing a trick, why HMS biners to the bolts/ rings? Seems offset d would be good there.

Christ what an example of overcomplicating an simple concept

Hey, any tips on how you attached the stone to that board?

Petzl connect adjust so much better as a proper PAS

Simple yet clever. Thank you!

🎉👏👏💯

Thanks for the info!! In what situations is the first option used and in wich the second?? Thank you very much

Hi buddy! I got a question! What happen when the second/client doesn't know how to make a friction knot if it is gonna be the first person to descent?

would whip

no backup on the traxion??

May I ask. How did you attach the rocks to the board?

Nice to see you have some interested responses. The art of mountaineering is disappearing fast.

Classic Darwin award

It's in the back of my mind.

Karsten,, absolutely 💯 👍 trust your videos!! No nonsense approach and a person who trusts the gear!! Thank you 🙏 so much Karsten!! Keep them going, stay safe!!

I’d like your opinion: 6 days ago a climber posted on a Facebook group about a stuck cam, offering a 6 pack as reward. Yesterday I found a belay, went out to the line and found the cam wedged so far back into this flaring crack that I couldn’t see it except when looking in deliberately. It was so far in that I couldn’t clip it, and when trying to retrieve it I lost a lot of skin over the course of half an hour trundling chockstones and finagling the lobes. I thought it might be impossible to retrieve and couldn’t imagine how it got so far back. Now I’m wondering whether to be a Good Samaritan and let him know I got the cam out, or keep it as my prize for sending the route and rubbing my hands raw to snag it. There was no sob story or anything, and I’m broke and unemployed. Surely this married guy from the city can afford it? And I’ve been losing so much more expensive gear lately, don’t I deserve some positive karma back? I know the unofficial rules of booty state it’s now mine. But I did go hunting for this cam based solely off the Facebook plea. Thanks for your input!

Clove hitch in the middle of the petzl adjust is a great idea. I just purchased one and have been thinking of ways to do this. Thanks!

Number 7 is a NoGo… if you fall, there is a risk of unclipping the rope, because the rope enters the biner from the rong side. Never do this!!!

Damn

Re video and viewer comments: - 5 min in, the logic against rings is disproven as the sling with X held beyond 20kN. The X, not the biner profile, is the most significant factor. - Ring pluses: you can't cross-load a ring; it has no gate to open; it has no corners to snag; modern fat rings stamped with 22 kN are strong in any direction. - Ring minuses: it has less capacity (but still likely a fat girth plus two biners) but this equates with a smaller item than the carabiner otherwise needed. Ring +/-: a ring is often carried anyhow for a rap scenario, otherwise goes unused; using for master point frees up a carabiner. - older methods with equalizing sliders, giant wadded figure eights, etc. can be hard to untie, re-equalize, and overthinking loads and equalizing has been largely found to be ineffective and even introduces greater shock loads when one anchor fails. - balancing the directional loads into the girth when building is sufficient to provide "equalizing," as loss of any strand just moves more load to the remainder, without any sliding or shock. - the beauty of the girth is its easy adjustment and high final strength with the X added; more complexities are superfluous and not needed. - clove hitches do not behave in the same fashion, in slippery Dyneema type fibers, and may not provide the same final strength; many test videos show this.

Why not just use an ATC with a third hand at this point 😅

How bout take a nice hike on a safe trail and call it a day .... unless you are an Army ranger there is no need to be rappelling off steep jagged rockface

It’s not a question of preference for me but what makes the most sense in every climbing context I have used all. In particular I think it’s important to be able to clip behind and on top of the draw. Understanding where the rope is coming from and the direction of force that would be applied if you fall

I have no idea wtf are the doing... ping pong?

why not use 2 shorter slings without knots... That hitch reduces strenght of master point like 40% or so...

Hi Karsten, got this recommended :). Tbh, I dont see a situation where I would prefer this over repelling with reverso + third hand. I just feel like there is not enough backup with the grigri if I suddenly get hit by a stone and drop both hands, you could add a prusik tho. And a quick question: Whats your opinion on the texas rope trick if you cant finish a route? Usefull, or do you just leave a quickdraw carabiner or a quicklink?

How the hell that even happens when the start holds are partially covered will always baffle me.

Just wanted to say saw you at Sandrock November 2023 and interacted with you briefly while you were looking for an injured climber, it was cool to see you in person of course had no time for meet in greet as there were more important matters at hand but it was very inspiring seeing you asking where they were and being to the point and there to help. My buddies and I were behind knob wall climbing “somethingness” (stem climb) when you asked me if I knew where the injured climber was. The crag was lucky to have you there that day! Thanks for the inspiration to beginning my long journey in the freedom of the hills…

why would you plan on betting with your life on someone else's gear thats been left behind and sitting in the elements forever?? cut that trash off and use your own gear

It’s 2:1

Great video! We use the Clutch, ASAP and larger pulleys whenever we can. But this lightweight set-up is a great option when you can’t work out of the truck or UTV’s. Would love to see a video from you on anchors. Webbing vs. rope and type of knots, etc. You have a very good and detailed presentation style. Thanks!

so clear. so concise. thank you very much

#5 is the Alex Honnold method

How dangerous is it to do this setup with non lockers?

I use the first method when I can walk to the top of the route to set a top rope anchor and don't want to walk back down. Super handy. I'm gonna use the second method so I can retrieve the rope too now.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to perform this rescue with a child who is so light that when the belayer tries to ascend, they instead lift the child? It seems like the belayer could tie off the belay and then climb up behind the child causing them to be lowered, but I feel like there must be a more elegant solution.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jctdodudz83Sp2g.htmlsi=pHOE-jx_5HmeoHvN Petzl ID or RIG all the way

Great simple educational video.

I really appreciate your honesty and information

Great information thanks

Awesomeness. Thank you man. ❤😂🎉😢😮😅😊😊😅😮😢🎉😂❤.

2, 7 are my favourite

Knapa gak gunakan puly agar tali tdk friksi

How useful would it be to join a contrastingly colored tag line to the other end near the anchor? just alpine anchors maybe. also, at what point does the anchor become too far to pull.

How to sell your manhood, 101... Never took this course.