Hi Sienna. I'm jlauer12 at gmail.

Part 3 shows more how it's programmed, but no, I did not use ROS.

It's cheaper than any other system I could find with the features I've been after. Have you found anything cheaper lately?

The little Up2Streams need a 5v input. I think the devices with the built-in amp have their own DC to DC converter, but the little ones don't.

Hey John, another question here. Where did you find the connectors connect to the app to stream board from the power supply. I’m coming up empty on that.😊

@@steveharvey451 You know what's so funny about that question, just earlier today I was frustrated that one of the Arylic's for the master bedroom keeps losing power because I used the wrong connector and it's too loose. I actually added solder to the outer metal for the other ones just to thicken it up. For the life of me, I don't know what the correst size is to use. It's kind of infuriating that Arylic didn't specify it.

@@JohnLauerGplus I just emailed their support site on that. The Amazon recommended algorithm is linking a 5.5mm x 2.1/2.5 mm x 10 mm connection. If I don’t hear back I’ll order both a 2.1 and 2.5 as listed on Amazon and let you know which fits.

Something is wrong with Thingiverse right now. I just logged into my account there and all of my makes are gone. I have to imagine this is just temporary.

That's bad, i really like the arm, i want to make some modifications for other application i am working on. Is there any other way i could get the models.@@JohnLauerGplus

@@user-fz8bo6yd5u Looks like Jeff Kerr still has it on Printables. www.printables.com/model/132260-we-r24-six-axis-robot-arm

Just install Fusion 360. It's free for Personal use. Download the model from the Autodesk Gallery that's in the description. Presto! You can make STL's.

Nah. They're fine. Millions of people are printing abs every day. Just keep your room ventilated.

That's a cool idea, but those need to be really smooth, so that would worry me you'll never get the smoothness and roundness that you need. Albeit you are sort of averaging them together, so maybe it "mostly" works?

I will say in subsequent designs I just went with cheap off-the-shelf metal bearings because they're worth the simplicity, smoothness, and tightness beyond a 3D printed bearing and they're not that expensive on the low end, but 10 times better than a 3D print bearing.

Yes, that was all PLA because I only had an Ender 3 at the time so that was my goto.

Hmm. I don't because I use only Spotify so far, but I think if you set one of the Arylic to have an input of RCA jack instead of input as Spotify, then you could stream it to all of the devices just like I do with Spotify. However, I'm not totally sure.

Thanks, it's been working great too. Just added 2 more for the pool.

I sometimes use the BT, but you're limited by how far the BT will go from the Arylic boards to where you're phone is, so I don't really ever use the BT. My whole family uses Spotify, so that's mainly how we send the audio to the speakers. When friends are over I just have them connect to my wifi and then they see the Arylic speakers automatically in their Spotify. Yes, multiple people can control their own speakers whenever they want, so my kids get to send their own music to their own speakers whenever. When we're by the pool I find that everyone fights to control the patio/pool speakers so they get their playlist going, but it works out great.

I was worried about the same issue and they must send synchronization packets to each other to resolve it because I have not had any synchronization issues in fact it works pretty brilliantly

@@JohnLauerGplus That's great news- I've had horrible sync issues over wifi, so I'll try hard wiring them to see what happens... I'll try it on a test bench before I go running wire everywhere in my 1908 house 🙄 Thank you for the reply!

@@addismanley8271 I have a couple of my arylic devices on Wi-Fi and the others on ethernet and even those seem to synchronize fine. I will say that I do only use Spotify so not sure if that makes a difference.

It's still there. Working just fine. Turn off your ad blocker.

No, but if you watch the video where I pan over the power supplies, you can see my labels on each power supply tell you which, or how many, Arylic devices I connect to each one. So just pause the video and write it down. Also, just as a note, I've been using this system now almost every day since I published this video and it works great. I have had to reboot it once as my Spotify wouldn't connect.

It looks like you have yellow wire connecting one power supply to the other. I'm just not sure why. Also, for the power cords that go from the supplies to the arylic boards, did you have to make some yourself or did you find extras on the arylic website somewhere? I know each supply comes with a cord to power 1 board but that would still leave 2 boards needing a cord.

@@maxchillin5480 Ahh, yes, the yellow wires are just the ground connection in parallel to all the supplies. So, you can cascade those from one to the next. You can do the same setup with Neutral and Line. It's just like you're stringing an extension cord from one to the next. For the wires from the power supply to the Arylic I made those myself. I think I used 18AWG wire.

Thank you! That helps a lot!

@@maxchillin5480 Oh, I do recall buying those DC barrel jacks on Amazon and getting the wrong size so had to add a dab of solder to thicken up their insides. So I recommend finding the correct barrel jack size. I wish they hadn't use barrel jacks, but rather screw terminals. Oh well.

I am not familiar with Soundavo, so not sure, but compared to Sonos, I found the Arylic to be much more reasonable in price and flexible.

@@JohnLauerGplus I think going with Soundavo WS66i or a Dayton Audio DAX88 will be much more economical than this setup

@@HafizAbass I just checked out Soundavo's website. At first look, it seems like the WS66I is $2250 for 6 zones. In the Arylic setup here it's about $150 per zone. So, Arylic is MUCH cheaper. Now, it looks like you can get a 6 zone expansion unit for $700 from Soundavo, so that starts to get cheaper. Perhaps it depends how many zones.

DAX88 is 8 zones 8 sources and is about 1500 euros. Probably a bit cheaper in the US. The only thing you need to do is run your cables and you are done. They have a great app also to stream and combine zones etc.

@@HafizAbass The Dax88 is sounding closer to viable. I suppose one of the benefits of Arylic, for me, was that I could also put 1 unit on a standalone speaker setup, so I could distribute it around the house. For instance, my daughter's room just has a local setup of an amp/speaker. My other daughter has a local setup too of an amp/speaker. The reason for this is they need local Bluetooth and local aux in for a record player. So, with Arylic I was able to scatter devices where needed. I also needed a super power amp for my 4 outdoor speakers, so I put an Arylic in the attic where those amps are for powering the pool area. Again, another distributed device. So, can you distribute smaller single unit Dax devices and they sync with the whole system?

I did another setup for my pool with even more powerful amps, thus Meanwell PSUs where the fan is always on. So, in this setup I connected into the GPIO port on these Arylic boards to watch the on/off signal they can output. From that GPIO signal, via a relay, I could turn the PSUs on only when music is playing. That would be another angle.

That's awesome. Have fun with it. I never quite got further than my part 3 video, so if you make any further progress on the design, let all of us know. I'd love to see your videos of your class putting it together! It's really quite an intricate design.

​@@JohnLauerGplus Thanks! We are printing everything now. Waiting on the electronics to get here in a few weeks. The only part I cant seem to find is the touch sensor you used. I will post some video when we are all finished.

@@infosec1812 The touch dial is a custom circuit board. Order it at the same time as the other circuit board.

@@JohnLauerGplus I ordered the pcb for the touch dial. Now I just wait for everything to get here. When I ordered the circular PCB, JLC asked if I wanted the holes to be castellated. I agreed to the service but the price went up quite a bit. I ordered 30 of them at a cost of $87 including shipping.

@@infosec1812 Hmm. That seems really expensive for those boards. I'm guessing you're referring to the 3 castellated holes that connect to the ws2812 LED, so you can mount it at a 90 degree angle on the board. What's probably cheaper to do is not pay for castellation and instead make them full holes by expanding the board outline and then just Dremel the PCB, or cut it with clippers, on your own. Back when I designed these, JLCPCB would just do castellated for free.

There is a forum you can post a question at forum.makerforums.info/c/chilipeppr/

@@JohnLauerGplus thanks alot :)

You're hilarious. The whole video was about the audio system, but that was the part that stood out!

@@JohnLauerGplus yep! Just wanted to share that compliment

@@FrankGraffagnino well great to hear from you cuz God knows I haven't posted a video in a long time