No parts required, but you need brain power to get it right

😅 i noticed your trump flag👍you got a new sub...fjb🇺🇲🇺🇲 and thanks for the video it was helpful.

My friend has a current draw. I pulled that BT but no amp drop. I unplugged the alternator, nothing. I suspect the starter. Thanks for posting.

Sounds like swamp gas floating over the port. Call the FBI

I know it's been a while since you made this video but I'll take a shot. I bought my daughter an 04 murano without the navigation. It's having this same issue with the hvac and radio controls. Even the mirror controls not working. Checked fuses and nothing. Looked for the module you found with the green crusties but there is not one in this model. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thank you!!! 🙏You saved me a lot of money because I was about to take it to the dealer!

Somone needs to teach the guy how to use paragraphs.....

Great work as usual Ivan. I haven't found anyone with more knowledge and expertise than you on YT or the real world.

The power of editing allowed you omit the explative laden part of reinstalling the cams

When his headlights and parking lights go out, it still won't be the TIPM, it will be the equally crappy grounds on the side of the right frame rail.

The fuel injection doesn't have an accelerator pump. How do you give it gas when starting?

Hi now you are using snap on scantol so is this the best scantol and why

A little no-ox grease, along with decent heat shrink, at the factory would likely have prevented this.

The digital fuel pressure gauge with transducer make it a convenient and safe way to monitor fuel pressure on a test drive they even make a device that uses your DVOM

Omg blast from the past. I had a 86 cutlass really similar. Last car I owned before going off to boot camp.

You said it "monkeys!"😄

I am not a techie! Excuse my probably dumb question but can I charge my NOCO 70 by going through clamps to clamps with a 120V trickle charger ( wall plug in)?

Ivan, The AC Delco plugs back in the 80's really were terrible. I had 6 boxes of 6 plugs for a 3.8L that had loose center electrodes. All were direct from a local GM dealer. Never ran into that before that incident or after.

Do you have a wiring diagram for the platform control box? I have the same one and need to make sure they did not wire it wrong. website was no help,

Vacuum hose to map sensor

Not "chop" but "cut" would sound less "butcherery" me thinks...Great work as always...

Showing some young age sir! I use to deal with those hub cap locks daily and I started in 2001!

Nice fiat

Mine did a similar thing. 2nd owner, bought mine at Auction. Took it to Jeep, technically the bulletin says I'm eligible for a free PTU replacement. Jeep refused, instead did a reflash that did little to nothing. There are two components that can be replaced. .the 4wd actuator motor on the rear differential, or, the 4wd " brain box" adjacent to the spare tire. To test, unbolt the actuator, car in the air, have someone cycle the selector. ..if it moves, everything is ok'ish. 88% of the time it's the brain box. For now, I start the car, I turn off the traction control and the auto on/off switches. ..that prevents the " service awd" light from coming on at 30mph. Oh and my driveshaft howls ar low speeds...cheap Korean made bearings. Replacement shaft is over 500$..2 hour job on a lift. Sticking with it until noise gets worse.

I enjoyed this series of videos it was cool to see a master of technology go old school with the limited tech on this beautiful example of a non cookie cutter car....when you found the faulty pressure regulator I think you also found a source of the extra fuel which caused the rich condition IE:vacuumed right into the intake...thanks for sharing your determination to find the real problems on your case studies....keep up the good honest work...Karl from eastern Canada...P.S.I'm jealous of the owner of this car we never see any in that condition up here👍👍👍

The most lovely video about car repair Ever!! ❤

You hear the car cranking, so it's crank no start, not no crank no start such as many people have

If you cut off the metal shroud on the metal end of that return line, you'll find its just a line with a hose nipple and you can just just use a line and hose clamp on it, no need to replace the metal end of that return line.

Here i thought all OTC products were made in the good old USA. Apparently that fuel injection pulse tester is made in China, where all the CRAP aftermarket parts junk comes from. Annoying and sickening at the same time. However, i did enjoy this 4-part series and another successful outcome for Ivan.

Does the autel do ecu programing? And or air suspension with mercedes and bmw??

yeah, lots of readily made fuel line repair ends. you can typically get a whole repair kit with special end and a compression coupling (or barb fitting for nylon lines) at local parts stores. DOH! at wrong size, GM was typically 3/8" for supply and 5/16" for return, with M16(3/8) and M14(5/16) threads, now they did vary around some over the years so always check first.

Admit it everyone wishes they had an Ivan within 100 miles from where they live, I know that I do.

Those 3.8 liter engines had an inherent imbalance shake at just above high idle speed. This was a known issue and part of the reason behind why the 3800 received a balance shaft when it came out for the 1988 model year. The 1984-87 3.8 engines all had the imbalance shake. Nothing to worry about and nothing can be done to correct it.

When in doubt choose OEM parts 😊

Ivan, old school way to plug up a vacuum hose you will need a bolt to hose size and a worm screw clamp. 🤣

Which video of yours shows a test light killing a PCM driver? I have never seen this video, even having watched your channel for over 5 years. I do seem to remember a diag you did of a window regulator with a fancy position sensor, where your test light killed (or at least temporarily disabled) a driver in the module for the driver's window (I think it was on a Subaru?). I watched that video years ago though.

90% of the problems with those is MAF and or dirty throttle body. SOP is to open hood and whack the MAF with a screw driver handle. Replaced hundreds under warranty when doing oil changes saving return visits for stalling. Cleaning TB is regular maintenance with tune up.

My family has been GM since before I was born. My Dad especially loved Oldsmobiles and owned several. He once gave me a 1962 Olds Dynamic 88 and I loved that car! I got a red 1966 Cutlass 442 for graduation, and it was amazing! Watching you work on this one sent me backa ways, Ivan! Thanks for the Memory Lane stroll!

I would almost bet that the lope at idle is caused by a dry plug in the cap.

Memorial Day A day to remember those who gave their all so we can have it all! It's a day to remember the soldiers who didn't make it.

The total Greatness of this video is hard to describe. These cars were great. A mix of pre-computer and computer. Saddest engine, VERY harmful to GM's rep, was the 4100 in the caddy. 1985 began the GM computer days. TELL THE OWNER that the OIL really matters. So too the Cooling system must be maintained.....Could easily go 300K with care. Also, get rid of the plugs. Install platinum plugs, Delco. Also, as to the EGR valve, well, some needed to be removed, and then the passage, Not the valve, snaked with a wiggling cable of steel in a hand drill, although the miles on this vehicle are so low, this might not matter. Love your old school timing light....I will Never part with the Sun unit that I have. The Timing absolutely matters of these GMs, even 2 degrees off hurts performance. At 100k miles, think about replacing the timing chain. Makes them run factory new.....

I was surprised to see a 30-ish old who owns an old-school timing gun and knows how to use it.

Car came with a full tank of fuel. Diagnostic work took half a tank! Please, bring your car in with a full tank!

First series 3800 these were notorious for jumping time, hence the series 2 3800 the bulletproof non interference engine, haven't seen one like this in decades

I have worked on tons of old cars for one simple reason: I prefer them. The joy of working on that Jurassic Olds, is that the wires are pristine and original. Nobody has been in there farting around cutting, splicing, shorting and removing the stock wiring. A little rubber rot and a drooping headliner are small prices to pay for that 80's land yacht.

This thing has been messed with way too much for 5000 miles.

Kansas City Auto Electric here, I don't know if this will help you but you will NEVER be able to get that car to idle smoothly as it does not have a balance shaft. I had the exact vehicle many years ago and it always had a shake at idle to the point I thought something was wrong with it. I took it to more mechanics than I could count until I ran into a GM mechanic who had just retired and he told me what the real problem was. It is common knowledge now but for some reason in the late '80s it was keep very quiet. As it turns out I put over 400k miles on the car. GM did start to put balance shafts in the 3800 but not the 3.8. Anyway I hope this helps.

Those C-body sedans were peak GM build quality. I had a '94 LeSabre that I beat to death, still ran well at 230K miles when I got rid of it. Everything they've designed since 2000 has declined. But if you find an 80s - 90s Olds 98/Lesabre/Bonneville in good shape grab it. Reliable powertrains, good handling 4 wheel indy suspension, 25+ MPG, and the best cruising cars on the road even at 30+ years old.

It’s hard to enjoy this series knowing that John got screwed on the car deal, and the repair bill was probably outrageous. Not a fan of this one.

Can anyone help me with a diagram or a video on where nox sensor #2 is because I found where it connects with nox sensor #1 but can’t find where it connects to the exhaust or wherever it is that it connects too. Having the same exact issue and have to get it fixed asap