Nice Job !! Wonder what the cost would be to have it done

Hi tony have ever reuse head bolts my head bolt are pre good conditions siz are ok what do u think about it can I or not thanks

Not very informative! There is a lower bolt concelaed behinf the hamrmonic damper - would be noce if you showed us how to removwe this bolt instead of working on a mockup front cover.

Traduci il testo con la fotocamera hi, with the petrol pump on and the distributor control piston closed, should the petrol come out of the holes in the distributor injector pipes? If it doesn't have to come out, what part of the distributor would be defective?

Tony i have a 1973 SL D jetronic car was running fine and I sent out my injectors to be cleaned. Got the back changed all fuel lines put it all togeather it starts for a sec then dies. If I let it sit for an hour try it again same thing...any thoughts

A great video mike

As much as you have put yourself into this Mercedes, you deserve to enjoy hearing it start up and drive it. I concur with your decision to send it off to those who daily repair and adjust CIS fuel distributors. This is a highly specialized task and even though you eventually would have gotten it straightened out you don't need to develop that skill for a once in a lifetime task. Good luck Tony.

I'm currently working on my r107 560 sl exhaust. Thank you!

What camera are you using for this video? Exhaust: How difficult were the flange bolts and how did you reach them? Other than that, this car looks so clean as if it had no miles on it! No corrasion anywhere or even usual dust on the suspension components. I really enjoyed your calm and patient demeaner....

I agree with the previous comments regarding the decision of sending the distributor, best thing 👍. I'm sure you could have done it still those guys have the correct equipment so once done dial in , it will be bang on. Btw could you share the ball park figure for the rebuild ? Thank you.

This was the right choice...it's a few hundred more than doing it yourself but without the rig they have, you'll never get it right...

Your patience and process is admirable. Many (probably me included) would’ve started with starting fluid, or turned screws unnecessarily. Hang in there!

My car SL560 1987

Tony i need to replace fan clutch brand URO - BOSCH AL69X Remanufactured Alternator - water pump from meyle what do you think about these companies

Great video ! One quick comment: shouldn't dismiss the "use a starter fluid" method, it's the fastest and easiest way to find out if the non-starting problem is electrical or fuel .

Hi Tony. I have a 560 and a 380. When I got the 380 the previous owner couldn't get it to start and the idle air screw assy was removed so I had to start from scratch. Before you rebuild the fuel distributor. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/arV6nqWS19uuh2Q.html is a reference to get the idle air screw to a baseline so you can get the car started. Your go live it sputtered, but your mix is off and I'm guessing very lean. If you follow his instructions you will get it to a point where it will start then you can adjust the screw to where it idles smoothly. Yes you can do a lambda test, but I've had 5 R107's and eventually you can tune them by feel. PS I've rebuilt 3 R107 fuel distributors. It helps them, but I've experienced a break in period of about six months unless you start messing with individual metering which is a PITA; that being the case you're best buying a rebuilt one (Australia has some good shops) and sending them your core. But if you just want to get it running and see if it smooths out (I think it will), that video is a good reference. Following those instructions I had a 10 year neglected 380 running and idling smooth in 15 minutes. Then I Facetimed the previous owner. :)

Experienced the same thing with my 1989 560SL/M117 after draining all the gas when replacing most of the fuel system. When the system got the necessary pressure, the engine started and ran like new. Air was the cause and I forced the engine to run in short sequences with starting gas. Your problem may lie elsewhere and it will be interesting to see what you find out here. Good luck in the process!

Welcome back Tony. Good diagnosis. Great to see you back. MH

When you mentioned long ago that you were not rebuilding the fuel distributer, I thought that was a mistake. Don’t rebuild the distributor yourself unless you can test bench flow. To fine tune your car, you will need to adjust duty cycle when you get to that point.

🎉 extremely helpful.Thank you very much for the great video, keep up the good work

Congrats Tony! I would test the fuel volume that comes out at every injector 😮

Interested to know if you have had any progress on getting the R107 running yet and what was the issue?.

Hi tony Yesterday i make a new circle for A/c : compressor - Condenser - i wash all the circle before but after install every parts the A/c is good and cold but It turns on and off sometimes when it is cold and when it is hot. Is it because of the sensor? Where is the sensor and how many sensors are there in the air conditioning? Because I will replace them completely. I am tired. Another problem: The air outlet in the middle does not work. Is it from the air conditioning center inside the cabin

Thanks tony

I removed the same fuel tank (560sl) without removing the upper vent tank and I also unplugged the fuel sender from trunk, took me 1 hour. You did a lot of extra unnecessary stuff

I hand polished my journals with sandpaper and shoelace from retired bowling shoes. BUt I never thought of how to do the lobes. Briliiant work.

Hi tony do use head gasket spray .all so engine head were large diameter bolt how much nm.fp .can u show thanks I learned a lot 👍

Hey very nice, thanks for this! A few questions: is there a video where you took out the transmission? Do you feel there was a bit more complexity added re: disconnecting tranny lines, whereas it could all have remained intact were the engine and tranny kept together? Also, what kind of cart did you use to set the engine onto? Thanks!

Oh and if your heater core springs a leak, I know of a fantastic place that duplicates and builds them from scratch out of copper and brass with no damn plastic fitting such as are in this car's factory heater core.....OEM heater cores are extinct. If you find one (new) used are worthless, you need to become an archeologist....Mercedes has stopped producing so many parts......don't get me started on that rant.....

With your flow potentiometer did you remove it during your rebuild - I don't recall if you did. Is it the original? If it tests defective, you will need to replace it and there is a specific adjustment procedure for that. Incorrect adjustment of potentiometer can easily cause starting problems. I replaced mine since it was worn, the adjustement procedure is tedious but you as a DETAIL kinda of guy will have no problems.....

Tuning diagnostic info on Duty Cycle and EHA amps. It is important to first ensure there are no problems before attempting this tune. In other words, are system and control pressures correct, are fuel pressure leak down correct? Perform a smoke test. Any leaks fix them. Yes I know this is a rebuild, but you would be surprised where you would find smoke test leaks..... With that said: Preparations: In case of California version the ECU may have to be switched over to duty cycle output. Check the service manual for instructions if necessary. Warm up the engine to its normal operating temperature. A 10-minute warm-up drive is better than letting the engine idle until it’s warm. Make sure that the engine does not heat up too much during the check / adjustment procedure. Pull off the vacuum line between the throttle valve and the regeneration valve of the fuel evaporation system at the regeneration valve and block it. Keep the A/C switched off. Check procedures: Connect the meter to the diagnostic coupling X11 port 3 and 2 (or ground) using MT471 to pin 3 With ignition switched on (engine not running) the duty cycle should be about 70% (California: 85%). If you’re using a voltmeter it should read 0.3 * Vp6 (California: 0.15 * Vp6) If in case of engine M116 / M117 the duty cycle is 100%: The installed ECU version doesn’t feature fault diagnosis via static duty cycle. Take off the air filter lid and check two other duty cycle values with ignition switched on (engine not running): With the throttle closed and the air sensor plate deflected the duty cycle should be about 10%. If it stays at 70% there may be a problem with the ‘closed signal’ of the throttle position sensor. With the throttle fully opened and the air sensor plate not deflected the duty cycle should be about 20%. If it only drops to 40% there’s a problem with the air flow potentiometer. Put the air filter lid back on for the duty cycle check with the engine running, which should be done with the air filter installed (and clean)! Start the engine, let it idle and wait until the reading starts to fluctuate (it takes a moment until the o2-sensor reaches its operating temperature). If it doesn’t start to fluctuate after a while, the meter may be displaying a static error code (see ‘Static duty cycle’ further down). Increase the engine’s speed and monitor the meter while you keep the speed at about 2500 rpm. The reading should fluctuate! Record the values between which it fluctuates - it should be a range not much bigger than 4%, for instance: valley = 42%, peak = 46% (mean value = 44%). The fluctuation frequency (1 cycle = from ‘valley’ to ‘peak’ and back to ‘valley’) should be about 1 Hz (1 cycle per second). Then check the reading at idle. Again it should fluctuate, and again record the values between which it fluctuates. The fluctuation frequency should be about 0.5 Hz (1 cycle per 2 seconds). The mean value at idle should not differ by more than +/- 10% from the mean value at 2500 rpm. In case of engine M116 / M117 of model years ’86 & ‘87 the mean value at idle should be 5-15% higher than the mean value at 2500 rpm. Adjustment procedures: Remove the plug from the adjustment tower (if it’s still in there), so that the Allen wrench can be inserted. You can put a drop of oil into the adjustment tower if you like. Then start the engine, let it idle and wait until the reading starts to fluctuate again. Please note: adjustments are always done at idle (not at the higher rev)! Then insert a 3 mm Allen wrench into the spring-loaded adjustment pin in the adjustment tower and carefully push it down. Don’t put too much pressure on it, otherwise the air sensor plate’s lever below the adjustment pin might be pushed down, which can easily stall the engine. With the Allen wrench engaged, turn the adjustment pin a little to and fro in order to let it snap into the actual adjustment srew, which is located in the air sensor plate’s lever. Turn the adjustment srew in small steps. Even tiny turns can change the duty cycle by several percent. Cw turns lower the duty cycle … ccw turns raise the duty cycle. After each step briefly rev the engine and let it settle for about 10 seconds before taking readings. I recommend to record the total adjustment angle. If you turn the adjustment srew too far the engine will stall. And if you can not remember how far and in which direction you have turned it, you may not get the engine restarted. Then the KE-Jetronic needs to be reset in order to get the engine started again, which is not very difficult, but unnecessary labor. After the adjustment to the desired value at idle, check the duty cycle at 2500 rpm and then again at idle. Readjust if the mean value difference between both engine speeds exceeds the above-named allowance.

Missed the stream but very glad to see you finally get to this point

adjust the mix screw, you change the height of the plunger maybe just 1mm when changed the seal just play 1/4 of turn with the 3mm screw it works opposite in is rich out is lean

Congratulations , sry I was working while streaming :)

Hi Tony! Congrats on getting this far. As you may remember I just finished rebuilding my upper and lower intakes as well as rebuilding fuel distributor. I also tuned using ampmeter for EHA as well as duty cycle meter to adjust to 50 percent duty cycle. Perform diagnostics to see where the problem is. As a suggestion, disconnect connector on EHA and try to start the car as a troubleshooting step. I have mine humming great after tuning. Do not touch the lambda adjustment screw without measuring duty cycle.

Sorry I missed the livestream. Too bad you couldn’t have kept it going when you were working the throttle. I think if you did, it would’ve stayed running. Just seems starved for fuel.

Timing is not right

Missed your stream. All you had to do was to make the air/fuel mixture richer by turning 3mm hex adjustment screw on the top of the airflow meter clockwise until you get enough fuel coming to your injectors. Cheers!

Cool video gave me ideas. The flat block for sure on cranks with lines and you really need to flaten evenly. Maybe something stiffer than rubber like thicker leather for cams and cranks that are very good and just need a polish job. Thanks it is cool using drill speeding up the process. I went with 1000 and then 2000 on last one i did very slow might do it again to get a little bit better before polish. I will try mothers for mag aluminum on it wont.cut too much.

I’ve had several Lithotripsies. I’m a "chronic stoner". My incompetent new neurologist told me I don’t need to take Flomax before the procedure. Wish I didn’t listen to him. After the procedure the crushed up stones all wanted to get out at the same time… the pain was so bad I was hitting my head on the wall to knock myself out. Life-changing experience. Glad you’re better my friend and thanks for the awesome videos and explanations.

Hi Tony.....kidney stones...it makes my eyes water just thinking about the pain. At least a bit of hospital time will give you a chance to plan the road trip in what will be one of the best 560sl's on the road...Mike

Why didn't you cut the kick down solenoid wire right by the broken old connector and solder a new one at the end? I hate making splices, but yours was more. than professionally made.

Tony, is it a big job to get to the air pump? I've been looking all day but can't find a video or any instructions on how get to the air pump. It looks impossible to get out without removing a lot of other things in there.

Hi tony My car sl560 87 i have problem in my rocker arm and now i need to change this parts but the original is to expensive i see from febi is that good ?

I agree the health care system is so dysfunctional!

Thanks!

best of luck and get well soon Tony!!! - be sure to tell them to replace the crush washers. j/k lol.

Ford based the 4.6 2v off this motor. I don’t see a lot of information about this at all. But take a look at the two motors side by side. They are identical.

Wow Mr Tony graet content! I've just moved my W124 3.0L 1988 from garage after 12 years and I have a problems :( We have a presure of gasoline before the distributor but there is none after. Do you knoe if there should be a 12V after ignition on this plug attached to distributor??

the Doctors work for Satan ....the Cops work for Satan .....now who do you think runs the world ? Jay.