This is interesting, but seems like you never did the follow up videos, or I can't find them.

Nicely done!

Very nice project. Love it. To me it feels like the binary counter is backwards or should have a directional choice. Great work and educational!

Excellent work as we all have 64’s handy 👍🏻

Well, for me, this was one of your most fun videos. Will you be updating the PCB before you put it in the shared projects? I mean like places for the LEDs (bar ones would be better), resistor arrays instead of discreet resistors, proper pads for buttons etc., basically getting rid of the "protoboard" portion. And what is your username in shared projects?

Very nice , shame a c64 bit the big one during testing though, glad you got it going in the end

Cool! For some kind of "automated" testing, maybe port A and B can be connected pin by pin (via resistors to be safe if both ports are set as output ...), so there can be a test to write port A (output) and reading the value on port B (input) and vice-versa.

That looked really fun to build mate .. Enjoyed it ..😁

could I run it on an raspberry pi zero 2 w?

Nice! Reminds me I wouldn't mind a C64 with modern keys.. At least one candidate for a new keyboard on Github.

That's an early rev c74 with tan keys and a 407 board..... nice

Love a good c64 video mate .. the 8key is in the post mate

If you are going to get a new case then use the new KB else just fit a #8 key as you've fixed F1. Enjoyed the vid Tim 👌

nice test kit do you sell them for the c64 also what other computer do they work on plz also do you do repairs?

Maybe that's a Vic-20 keyboard?

Use the new keyboard. Just my vote. Nice work.

Thanks for sharing this.

If you ask me, this is a super ugly update. (Sorry to say.) It is way tidier to replace the existing 16KB DRAMs with 64KB DRAMs and run the wires on the bottom side of the board, if you run them in horizontal/vertical lines, with a drop of glue, this looks super tidy. For the cutting the trace under U7 I did drill a tiny hole, this causes less scars than desoldering U7.

Brilliant video Tim. I managed to snag a lovely condition C16 a few years ago from F/Book/MarketPlace which had a blown internal fuse and a faulty power supply plug. After replacing the internal fuse with a brand new one and fixing the P/Supplies faulty plug the machine powered up perfect. I then researched on Google to add the 64k RAM upgrade, which i did mine with an On-Off inline switch (so i can still switch back to the standered 16k (as there are a few C16 games that refuse to run correctly in 64k mode (Rockman is just one of these games). I also added an internal SD2IEC Micro SD card board, added heat sinks to the main IC chips and it works flawless. I last owned a C16 in the late 1980's/early 1990's and spent many joyfull and happy hours playing Rockman, Bandits at Zero, Booty and Blagger. For me the C16 is still such a thing of pure beauty and nostalgia.

Finally a color-coordinated 1581 for my Plus 4!

Did a similar mod with 2 chips and breakout wires, looks like a neat mod, how you finding the ksger ?

When you zoom out, it’s amazing what drives us.

I always wonder why the Plus4 has 8 RAM chips and the C16 only 2, those 8 must have been way cheaper back in the day, but they could have saved a lot of space on the board an put more ROMs in it and called Plus5. LOL I upgraded my C16 last weekend the old way, put the bodge wires under the board then it looks almost original from a distance :)

Nice upgrade :) .. Id keep the ram chip you took out mate .. They go in the C64 466 board :)

Great, thank you. Yes, using the board to align the sockets does help. Dual wipe sockets are more forgiving for alignment, but the turned pins ones seem a better contact.

Wow, I thought that would have been in a wedge case and not a bread bin. I didn't know the made a C-16 like that. I guess the smaller ram chips were a lot cheaper back in the days of lore.

The retro-brighting of the keys and case look great. I haven't used a tape drive in 40 years so I can't help you with functionality.

good one tim. i'll give that a go.

I'm curious about your ground routing, also what is the noise polution like, as in are there certain days that are much noiser? If atmospheric noise is not a problem then I would suspect connectors and cables may have intermitten issues.

Very impressive work Tim!

Well done Tim, I admire your perseverance 😊

Very useful guide. Nice.

Great job!!

Liked the vid, and i'm a BBC / Atari bloke. Why not do your PCB revisions in the colour code? Brown, red, orange, yellow, green etc, then you will know the revision by colour. I just thought of this, and its what I will do in future. Version one is always 'brown' anyway !

Nice vid, shame about the TED 😢

The amigados command "format" is in the c dir of the install disk and if you highlite the disk you want to format then you can go to the ikon menu on top and select format

@47:44 Your mistake was that you forgot to press the RETURN key after pressing the PLAY button

Nice video! :) You resistor value worry me a bit. You should multiply them by 10 before you test any more 6507's. The databus is probably fine since you have RW tied high but I'd still put 10k in case it does something funky during powerup. The address pins should not be sourcing > 6mA - that'll let the magic smoke out if it's close already or at least burn the NMOS gate pullup. Also, remember there's no 65C07 - the 6507 will start losing register data < 10kHz. From experience the program counter is a bit more resilient than that so for the NOP test here, you might get away with it. It's a quick, cheap and easy way to test if a 6507 is likely to work but of course it won't test registers.

I’m just puzzled as to why you thought the 2 x Capacitors were installed backwards in the first place so decided to install them the wrong way round?

...or a BackBit Chip Tester Pro

Hi, are the LEDs directly connected to the address-Pins ? did you do the math how much current goes through the IC with all LEDs being on ? The datasheet says the output is only valid to drive TTL logic !

Check CPU clock & reset pins

Thank you. Very helpful video

My Dad had an FX-80 for his BBC Micro, and I don't think he ever bought a new ribbon for it. His trick was to open the ribbon case (carefully, so as not to let the ribbon spring out), give the ribbon mass a moderate even spray with WD-40, reassemble, and leave it for a few hours. As the print head only hammers the centre third or so of the ribbon, the solvent in the WD-40 would wick some of the ink from the unused top and bottom to replenish the used stripe. If done with the right amount of spray, it was indistinguishable from a new ribbon. I'm not sure if the thin lube in the WD-40 played any role, but I doubt it'd hurt. He ran our school's computer department with about 100 BBC Micros and subsequently Arcs across the campus, so this trick was used to significantly reduce the consumables cost right up until they switched to laser printing.

It'll be a LOT of work, but you can definitely fix this computer. I have faith in you ;-) Get it done!

Laptops from this era had a certain science fictiony look about them, that assymetrical display hinge and drive bays and ports all over the place. Cool! Shame the guts are munted.

Worth noting is that if you want to use ppazip with Workbench 1.x you need the older ppazip 0.7, not 0.8 that is on aminet. That isn't really explained in the readme.

I had (still do) 2 Zip Drives --- One for my PC and one for my Amiga. Also had (have) LS-120 Disk/Drives.

actualy Iomega made a scsi drive called a floptical before the zip (i've had a coupel) that was a 21 mb floppy drive but it could altso read HD nd SD floppies

I loved my time with a Zip. Mine was in my new Gateway Computer. I got one put in. Because they said that one was available. I also got my hard drive upgraded from 2.5 gb. To 6 gb. The largest one around at the time. Good Old Days. 😊😊😊😊