What size press are you using? Also, i would have loved to see how that bearing seperator worked in conjunction with the press. There aren't any videos that address this.

For some reason this part does not fit my 03’ F250 7.3 and had to go with the old style. Anyone else have this issue?

GOOD JOB ! :)

My situation... 25 year old van with 110,000 miles, A big rust hole in the rocker panel but not much anywhere else. I think I can get easily get another 5 to 10 years out of the engine, the body might stay nice for 5 years. SKF Bearings are $150. SKP bearings are $50. I don't do much highway driving. Wheel bearings usually growl when they go bad. Lots of warning before you lose a wheel (no scare tactics here). Should I spend the extra $100? or am I getting enough quality from the $50 bearing to last me another 5-10 years? Normally, I wouldn't cheap out, SKF and Timken are quality bearings.

Why didn't you show the removal of the presses on cap that disconnects the driveshafts? How does that come off?

Last time I bought SKF they were made in China for hub bearings and were returned. That instills 0 confidence.

I see some questions that are not answered. For these axles the bearing roller actually rolls on the axle shaft vs. rolling on an inner bearing race which is not a preferred design as the axle shaft surface is not nearly as hard as a bearing race. Over time the axle bearing contact area becomes worn or pitted. The best solution is to replace the axles which are typically less than $150 each which includes the new bearings and seals. The alternate solution is to use the Axle Repair Bearings. These bearings move the rolling surface on the axle outward to a new unworn surface. The problem with these is they also protrude from the axle tube which makes it difficult at time to be able to push the axle in far enough to ore-install the axle c-clips without damaging the new seals. The repair bearings also do not last as long as the original. You may get 40,000 miles or you may get 10,000 miles out of these. If your doing your own labor it maybe cost effective but if your paying someone it is cheaper in the long run to get new axles. Also, to remove the repair bearings (which are hammered into the axle tube) the best way is to remove the seal, inner bearing retainer, slide the bearing out of the housing, then run a bead of weld n the ID of the bearing race and it will shrink the bearing enough to alloy you to easily pull out the bearing. This also does not damage the axle tube. At this point you can either install a new repair bearing or a new axle and original bearing and seal. Hope this helps someone.

Now show us how to remove one with 800,000 miles on it. Nightmare!

Is a tone ring just another name for a reluctor ring? And can you buy them separately?

looks like the dana 50 kit is a torque king 4808 for seals and setter

that seal knockout tool looks optimal but optional? definitely will get the setter

Thx great video

Cany you just buy a new axle and bearing?

Is krown kl73 flammable?

wait wait the idea for a video is to show step by step how did u remove the hub how it was supported

Where can I get the tool for abs speed sensor for the 04 canyon

Thank you, SKF ❤

nice work! i always have trouble determining if it's in far enough... need better measuring tools like you used.

That spacer that people are asking about is actually a retainer ring and it goes on after the bearing according to the parts diagram I found on an oem parts site. I also called several driveline shops and they confirmed it also. They said you don't have to use it that its overkill from the factory but you can if you want. So if you had to cut yours off and didn't get a new ring with the new bearing. Your good to go with out the ring.

About 95% of all auto parts are now made in China and that includes most parts for Japanese cars. I bet you my money that this SKF part is also made in fukin China. This guy from SKF is blowing smoke up your asses! I love it!

Thats really the outer axle dust shield and not the inner axle oil seal.

Thanks.

How do you get that cap off the drive shaft once you get the two pieces apart?

Axle nut torque is not critical,100% impossile to fully torque the axle nut.Called a couple ugga dugas with an impact which will not cause premature wheelbearing failure

Why the tube seal is smaller than the axle tube hole?

To be clear, it looks like a passenger side knuckle 1: push the hub out from the inside of the knuckle(the side the faces the car) outwards toward the wheel studs 2: push the bearing out by pressing it from the OUTSIDE to the inside. 3: push the new bearing in from the INSIDE of the knuckle to the outside

What if neither side of the bearing Is magnetic 😢

just curious why you didnt put any never sieze or dialectric grease on the sleeve to make sensor slide on easier or removal for next mechanic ??

Why didn't you show the bearing chunk removal! That's what I wanted to see!

material quality , performance & life reliability are extremely important to customers #👍🇵🇰

Specifically, what problems are introduced with the use of an impact wrench to remove an axle nut?

Although there was a recommendation to grease the outer-race of the bearing and the knuckle when pressing the bearing, there was no recommendation for greasing the inner-race of the bearing and the hub when pressing the hub. Was this an oversight or not?

Is there a difference between setting the preload with the wheel installed and on the ground, than not? If so, what is it? Thanks.

does the gear just go straight in?

Una disculpa y como sepiden en mercado libre o enke refacciónaria las puede conprar

Those buttons better be as tough as that wheel bearing. Bogi is so sexy.

Bogi my sexy nerdy girl.

just bought two SKF wheel hubs for my 2010 dodge ram, hoping they are as good as you say!!

6208 boll bearing

How do you know If these need replaced?

I see you CLAMP

dana 50 60

So, what do you use if you have a narrowed axle tube?

What are the tools you need for this job?

You should include Subaru in the list of auto manufacturers at 2:12

Hi. I recently installed one of these bearings but it has a seal on both sides. The bearing came with some grease and then I packed it even more with some of the red stuff. I didn’t know if this was suitable or not because nobody has instructions for the bearings that are sealed off from the diff. Will just grease be sufficient or does the bearing need to be filled with gear lube. I’m betting on grease, but it is a shame that I can’t find an actual answer for these bearings.

can you press to hard? i finally bought all the stuff to do this, and my first two attempts both the replacement bearings are dead. i pushed from the outside ring on the bearing -> knuckle press, and i pressed only on the inside race when pushing the hub -> bearing. the only thing i can think of is pushing to hard on the hub -> bearing press and getting one of the inside races wrong.

This video helped a lot. Thanks!

Love the details!

I just purchased 3 of your u joints. What kind of attachment do you use to grease? I've never seen this kind of zerk fitting.