Bought my first Brooks saddle for a E-bike i purchased recently. B17 Special with the copper chassis and rivets. Breaking in fairly quick but I found it comfortable out of the box. Profide applied a few times on top and once underneath

That cut makes the saddle look great. Looks like a swift

I just ordered some rivets to redo my B67. I think they're the same as yours but they're labeled as 12.2 mm. BYB248 brooks copper rivets. Ordered an extra tenth one just in case.😅

Better than new fantastic job....

What were you using to spread the rivets on the inside?

Where did you get the copper rivets?

I've been riding Brooks saddles for 40 years. I have 4 brooks saddles with 1000's of miles on them and love the comfort they provide, BUT I have had 3 of these saddles break on me. 2 of them one of the rails broke at the seat clamp on different bikes. both were replaced with new saddles by my local bike shop. I noticed I have another broken seat at the rear banana shaped rear frame on the outer wing area where the rail connects. I plan to repair this myself. I can not believe the problems I have had with durability but I will continue to ride brooks because of the proven comfort. I weigh 160 and ride these seats on touring, Mountain bike with rear suspension and a folding bike. I have 2 Professionals 1 swift and 1 B17 sprung. I treat all these saddles with Brooks recommended Proofride. Top and bottom. I always protect the seat from rain or tire spray with a cover and store the cover pushed under the seat when not using. I feel if you spend enough time on a bicycle your ass can ride most any saddle because of the callus buildup and soft tissue conditioning but for a casual rider these Brooks saddles are in a class of there own and can provide hours of comfort. One can not expect to jump on a Brooks with no or minimal hours in the saddle and expect to have no saddle sores. Time in the saddle is important.

I want. Original. Block colored. Brooks. Chalange. Full. Seat whare it's. Available if. You. Supply please. Inform. Thank you

i grew up on ford road in a town called leroy my brother and i rode dirtbikes all the time and the reeds flew airplanes, i didnt know them very well but i do remember them flying overhead doing shows for us, my favorite plane was the red triplane and whatever biplane they had at the time. i legit saw them do cool tricks overhead. i went inside the main hanger and in a couple other hangers on a golf cart with the old man. 9/11 hit and my dad took us outside and explained to me and my brother that this will be the first time in our life that we wont see airplanes in the sky anymore. im 25 now and moved on but i will always remember them. i also saw a bazooka and some cool shit in the observation tower lol i wish i could go back but a local college took over

interesting, i thought the b17 has "ears on the side"

great, unfortunately the saddle looks much more premium than the whole bike :)) i think it goes better on road bikes...the styles don't match here

I have done the same thing, changed the nickel rivets for copper ones, 13 mm. Thanks for the tutorial, Works great, it only was very hard to put the rails in and get the metal nose part in place. At the end it worked, with help from my son.

I love my Brooks B17 that I have been riding with for years on my touring bike now im getting into MTB instead and maybe gonna use that for some bikepacking and yeah the one downside I have with just going out buying another B17 leather saddle is I would love something abit more weather proof but oh I cant think of something that beats the comfort level of the Brooks B17 leather saddle

Great workmanship, very impressed. I've got a Swift with the copper rivets which look better with age.

The job’s a good un’.well done.

Please put a towel down on the bench

Nice, did you not play much from 24-30?

Bravo. Liked. Questions if I may. Where did you purchase the rivets and what did they cost? I'd like to swap the titanium rails from a black B17 to a honey colored B17 with regular steel rails. The method would be doing what you demonstrated. Do you anticipate any issues? Thanks.

The standard B17 has those crappy machine pressed nickel rivets that won’t hold for very long, at least on my saddle. So I replaced the rivets with the 13 mm copper ones from the B17 special. Costs me almost 20 euros as I ordered a few more. But after 2 hours my B17 was upgraded and I was proud on the result. I used KZfaq Brooks production clips and a few amateur clips for inspiration and instruction.

Really dope bro 💯

Incredible progress man!!!!!

Id have left the sides on it so as to look forward to lacing it uo once it starts to spley out

It looks beautiful, with the wider copper rivets. Thank You for the video.

Hi sir, just wanted to know did you apply a first coat of proofide on the underside when you disassembled it? Would have seem easier than after you fully assemble it.

And thank you for the video

It was cool to see the rivets, but it would have been helpful to see the underside of the rivets, also if you could have specified the wax on top (looked like it was Turtle wax?) I guess this wasn't a "how to" but more of "Just watch" type video.

I want to get that speedy hammer you are using.

what size copper rivets did u used? any link for me to buy them. thanks

May need to mail you mine down the road lol.

Not a B17. This is a Swallow, the original racing style saddle... Lots more wrong with this video.

I think that is the original seat from my hard rock hahaha

This is a blast from the past!

Almost unintentional ASMR this

That's the great thing about good quality honestly made stuff, you can repair it. Unlike stuff from China, even if you could it wouldn't be worth your time.

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Seems very sad this. Why are we weighing seat lol. A good crap would make all that difference

Come on, take the saddles off the posts and weigh them. At least your saddle has been adjusted to maintane it's shape unlike a couple of videos I've seen.

That trail looks so fun 👍

If it took a drill and all that hammering to get the rivets out maybe they weren’t actuality needing replaced.

What you've done is taken out working rivets because they looked dirty and replaced with oversized ones that spoil the original look. You "attacked" the leather with inaccurate tools and hammering - obviously slightly "missing" the target. That will compress the aging leather around the hole which will stress it. You gouged/forced out the orignal hole, which will also stress it and encourage water ingress around the rivet. It's unlikely the rivet you fitted is as tight as the original fixes - so your frame will start to move, very slightly, on the bad rivetting. Pointless - you have not really understood leather, accuracy or correct tools.

Looks beautiful, good job

Where did you find the red lock out nob?

Great video. Strangely satisfying.

Very nice job. That totally gave me the confidence to do the exact same. Those alu rivets are flimsy and the big copper ones are surely sturdier and more pleasing to the eyes.

a side view would have been nice

I will like to get that cannon ware did you get yours?

o yee a love that brooks b 17 so mmmmmmmmmm filling good.

How did you smooth the edge after cutting the seat?

lol steak knife, well that makes sense I guess.