As for any on stand motor would pull rear oil seal, injectors, plugs and coils and pull oil pick up tube. Get to everything you can get to including intake gaskets. Looks like really great video great job. You got an opportunity to make this easier on yourself motor out. That kit was on the money got everything you need.

Really like seeing this done outside the van. Now I have a clear picture of what is where when I do this job myself.

If you can beat that many trucks up for show they must be making a lot of money!

What do you use for painting? HVLP? What brand paint?

💕Wow🤍🤍🤍🤍💛💛🤍

Honda covered this problem under warranty. they extended it for a piston ring failure. you could of had all this done for free

Love seeing these videos. Reminds me of all the time we spent in the driveways fixing stuff when we were younger

Thanks J. Ready for Episode 2!

Would you mind posting the link to where you the parts from?

Your concept of the battery rod threading into the tensioner pulley is backwards, the correct idea is that the rod compresses the tensioner when it is treaded in. This removes tension from the belt. I suppose Honda did this in case you needed to adjust the belt position on the cam/crank teeth and did not have a vice and grenade pin to compress the existing tensioner (when it is removed). If anyone is doing this at home: I recommend NOT doing the battery rod method as it is a MAJOR PITA when the engine is still in the car. Pop off the tensioner bolts and get a vice and pin to recompress the tensioner. Thanks for an informative video!

Why would they make it this difficult? I saw another video where they went through the wheel well. Do you think that’s a good option? I’m thinking of I ever have to do this I’m just sending it to a shop or pulling the front headlamp assembly’s themselves.

Done this a couple of times. Going for #3 due to collapsed tensioner. To ensure accuracy, paint stick the old belt with the alignment marks before pulling it. Paint complete line from front to back on both cams. To include the cams and the back alignment points. Also number the cam marks and arrow the direction of the belt. You cannot do that on the crank so just paint one of the teeth and mark the belt over that dot. Transfer to the new belt. Make sure to orient the belt in the same direction as the old belt. When installing one of the cam teeth will probably not line up. Just put socket on that cam and move as needed. Makes life much easier. Instead of putting the covers back on rotate the engine to ensure everything lines up. The paint marks will not line up when you rotate the engine. You can do it without installing the crank pulley, just use a lot of washers or install the pulley. Word of caution the washer you pulled off the crank is beveled. Make sure the bevel points outward. Installing it wrong will cut the belt and ruin your day. The purpose is to keep the belt on.

You do a Awesome job buddy

Good job buddy I have the same problem on a 2015 Nelson on ac sometimes blows is it the same problem?

That was the best sounding truck I have heard in a while

good presntation

Where did you purchase the kit? Part number?

Theres a special socket for the harmonic balance..its a thick socket..weighted socket..works like a charm

Great vedio

You bot the kit I got to order one for my wife van

Napa $65. For timing belt

Do you want to sale the transmission I need one

How many miles on that motor and timing belt?

I did this same job with engine still in a few years ago and thought I screwed up. Got everything back together and went to start it. Idle was rough and threw CEL for cylinder misfire. Started to backtrack the assembly and didn’t have a coil pack harness on. It was just was hanging in the back. Connected it and everything was smooth as butter. Wasn’t looking forward to telling my wife that I just screwed up her van.

Honda doesnt provide a kit. Thats likely all counterfeits.

Install a muzzler to disable the VCM that causes misfires

You shouldn’t removed the pulley 😅and removed a motor out just to do timing belt is a lot labor

my 2007 ford had a hole in the cab corner at 5 year's ford did not stand behind their product . There is a reason they came out with an aluminum body , they knew they shafted everyone and had to change course. I drove my rust bucket until my wife was too embarrassed to get in it any more! Every ford truck with a super cab in every super market parking lot had the same rotted cab corners and bed as mine. I kept waiting for a class action suit that never came,what a P O S never again will I own a ford truck! None of my other cars have any rust at all ,while driven on the same roads and weather conditions. Ford tough,just means tough to own!

How are you able to slip the new belt on over the tensioner pulley so easily? I am trying to install my new belt and refusing to cooperate. Too tight.

The old belt still looking good i bet you can put another 80k miles on it with no problem. The timing belt is not easy to break, i am not going replace timing belt until i hear ticking noise or other signs.

Thank bud

Always always do 2 spins to make sure the timing still right after you put the new chain or belt on before finishing it up

You were able to remove from the top? You could get to to the trans and torque convertor bolts with it in the car?? 😮

Its alot easier when the engine is out of the car lol ... If it was me i would do the rear main seal...plugs...valve adjustment...only if i needed it though ..but now is the time

Thank you

Thanks brother

Good job!!

I’ll subscribe to your channel because you’re Jerry boy just kidding it’s very good

Very informative! Great instructional video!

Awesome job!