Amazon if I recall

....and for removing the rockers..use a 10mm open end wrench bent 45 degrees. put it in the same location you put the two rods and pull toward the cam.

Awesome! Sweet advice! Thank you for adding this!

@@hc7760 I know the video is for the stem seals but I mentioned it while thinking about when I replaced the lifters/rockers on my 4.7 last year.

By the symptoms. On start up it would smoke and if sitting at a light it would smoke but when I was driving the highway it wouldn’t. It’s inductive but I was right. Typically, if it is constantly smoking it’s the rings. You can also do a leak down test to prove if the cylinders rings are good. If so, it would be the seals.

Not a problem! And thanks for watching!

It should be. I know some one else mentioned they didn’t need to take off the brake booster to do undo the valve cover. I suspect there are slight differences in manual transmission vs automatic with the booster. But everything else should be the same.

Thanks for watching!

I am around 195k. Right now think it was closer to 183k when I did this

Yes it did.

Nice! Just finished school! Graduated in Dec with my second degree! First one led me to a career on boats for a decade. You must have an uncanny sixth sense for these kind of things. Thanks for the compliment of youth. I look in the mirror and it sure don’t look it too much anymore.

@@hc7760 Ignore the haters bro, good video.

Btw, I should have said this but those are some useful tips and thank you for contributing to help others!

Will this work the same on a 2008 Durango 4.7

@@humbertogonzalez331 all the 4.7l and 3.7l engines are basically the same, after 2008 they upgraded the heads and cams on the 4.7l, (including using two spark plugs per cylinder) but the valves should be the same

You mean how it was switching? Well, I didn’t really hook a scan tool up to it for this one. I had the upstream O2 sensor fail twice on the drivers side left bank. Upon removal they had the characteristics of oil contamination. Since the repair I have not had my check engine light come back on for a faulty O2 sensor and no more morning smoke on start. 🤷‍♂️. I’ll admit it was purely inductive reasoning that lead me to the conclusion but it seems so far to have paid off.

I changed the valve seals. The valve cover gasket would require a lot less. You could snake the new valve cover gasket on without removing the brake booster. Also this was on a manual transmission truck. The automatic may allow you to take valve cover off without removing brake booster.

Great question. I believe I had left them on, but you probably could take it off and have an easier time cranking over to the next cylinder.

@H C ah ok thank you cause I was thinking like do I have to take the whole belt off lol thank you

How did you get around the height of the cam bracket in the back? Did you Pull the injector rail? Clock the motor from the motor mounts? Please share so others can be informed. I wasted 3 hours trying to find the right angle only to find the height was restricted by the brake booster to get over the cam’s bracket on the back of the v8. Would rather direct people to read your insight and not waste time struggling like i did.

@@hc7760 1st off to clarify. I have an 01 QC 4wd. If there is a fitment difference between 2wd and 4wd I'm not sure. Looking under my hood. There is no more than 1 1/2 inch clearance from booster to valve cover. In my case. Say when I did a cam swap. Injector plugs, coil plugs, vacuum line from booster, vacuum line from throttle body, power steering pressure switch (may not be necessary) but gain a bit of room. After all that is out the way, I am able to roll the valve cover outward and down toward the exhaust manifold. In my specific case. Shorty headers. Which I also remove not only for room but so it doesn't get beat up.

@@DC-pv3yh Thanks!! This is informative. People have asked and I can now point them here. I didn’t remove injectors or exhaust manifolds, so maybe there is a difference? regardless this could be the trick people can try. I know removing the booster gave tons of real estate to work in as well, but the four nuts, the pin, and two brake lines can steer some away from doing it and one of the nuts was a pain to get at. I appreciate the experience and will pass it on as well!

Well, it didn’t take me all that long to remove the brake booster and also bleed the brakes after. I’d say it is possible but I’d suggest to get some new orings for the fuel injectors. I didn’t have any on hand and had to get the job done that weekend

I just remember that I couldn’t get enough height to clear the valve train and the brake booster was what I kept hitting on. I was able to snake by on the passenger side with the ac box but having the rail removed there definitely would have helped

​@@hc7760, Thanks for the reply. I wasn't referring to removing the entire fuel rail. I meant just remove the fuel line going to the fuel rail. The fuel line sticks out right over the valve cover. You are right that it doesn't take that long to bleed the brakes, but I'd like to avoid it if I can. I flushed my brakes only a few weeks ago. But once I get in there, if I hit the same problem now I know removing the brake booster is a viable option. It probably wouldn't have occurred to me without this video. Thanks again.

@@petrocksgarage I see. It may work, I can try and find time to look at the video I edited out during the valve cover removal to see what was hanging up and if that was part of the problem.

@@hc7760 Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

The valve spring compressor? I have a link to it in my description. It’s from crunchy sann.

I emailed them to ask and no. Though they do have a warranty and will replace the spray gun if an issue arises. I think they would do well if they sold individual nozzle kits for this

There wasn’t that much overspray. Plus the house is actually farther off than it seems. Video can be a bit deceptive

Not sure what you are referring to. I changed the valve seals that are underneath spring. There was no spring bottom. If you are speaking about the lifter, I only changed the lifters that could compress, had play, by hand. The lifters are easier to change because you do not need to remove the spring. Let me know if this helps

@@hc7760 the issue I’m having is that I got a misfire in cylinder 8 so I opened valve cover. Once I opened it noticed that rocker arm has fallen off, so I ordered new lifter and rocker arm but when I go to put it on it’s too easy like no tension I can put it on with my hands with no effort. So I’m pretty sure it’s going to fall off again. The valve spring doesn’t looked cracked. So my question to you is you think it’s a weak valve spring & crushed valve seal. Seems like its not allowing the valve to come all the way back up. I would appreciate your help.

@@olivares32688it won’t be due to the valve seal as that is just a seal over the valve’s shaft to keep oil from entering into the cylinder. I’d remove the lifter and inspect that. I’d take out the spring and inspect that. Also. Your valve may not be seating correctly. Therefore not going up all the way. So, I’d pull both rockers for the cylinder get In too dead center and do a leak down test to check for that. In fact, take out rockers for the cylinder compare the two lifters. If ok then set up your leak down tester, if it holds good within 10% then remove spring and check spring since you have air in the cylinder holding it up. Worth a shot. If those all check out problem most likely something else

@@hc7760 Ok thank you I’ll give that a try 👍🏻👌.

Ricardo sounds like a valve seat dropped causing the valve to not fully close

I thought about that pulling the fuel rail, but I didn’t have orings for them on hand. Yes I think this could circumvent pulling the brake booster. But….. Besides the valve cover removal, With the brake booster removed allowed more access to the back rockers. If I had to do it again I’d still take off the brake booster, but it’d be the first thing I’d do! Didn’t take long to bleed and lost only brake fluid. Also the passenger side you’ll find difficulty working around the ac box.

Thanks! If you are local to Orlando then I wouldn’t mind lending it out to you if you’d like.

1.5 for both. Used shopline brand

Thanks good work bro

It’s been a long time but I think I used 29 psi but lately I’ve had better results with 36-39 psi. I still plan on doing another video at some point but I am backed up with a lot of other projects

10psi is cap pressure. 30-40psi is at the intake of the gun. You get that by squeezing the trigger and seeing final air pressure.

If the auto and the normal light are blinking together then most likely this is your problem . I believe this is Samsungs built in fault indicator that something is wrong with that circuit. The thermistor is the most likely component. The thermistor is pretty cheap if I recall.

@@hc7760 Thank you for your reply. Its only the Auto light that blinks. When I checked the user manual it says its lack of water issue. My hot water valve under the sink is on so my guess is that its the inlet valve. Problem is I cannot see it at the bottom front of the dishwasher so it must be at the back, too much cosmetic plastic to see it. I'll pull the dishwasher out and take it apart, hopefully i remember how to put it back together. If you know where I can find info on a DW80k2021us Samsung how-to-replace inlet valve, kindly let me know :)

I don’t have a manual for this but if you document how you take it apart you should be fine. Slow and steady I’ve got faith in you! And I checked a quick google search, Samsung says it could be with water inflow or heater circuit.

@@hc7760 Thanks again! I'll see how it goes and will let you know what happens. It might take days.

Thanks for keeping me updated. Just make sure you turn your water valve back on from under the sink. That’s where they are typically located

Jc661. Ppg. 29-33 I’ve since used the Eastwood concours 2. So much better. If your doing large panels get that one, but is you are doing isolated small areas and blending the Nieko is all you need.

Much much better. I’m actually going to post a video soon that shows the concours in action. Although it’s a video more showing the Neiko spraying some outdoor helmsman urethane I took a minute to show the concourse spray some black on a body panel

Oh that’s an awesome idea!

Ppg paint. I used the JP series with one of their lower cost clear coat options

I’m glad it could help you out!!

I definitely bumped up the pressure and got better results! Thanks!

What do I set the Air compressor psi at?

@@mr.martinez916 ok compressor I have set at 120 on a 60 gallon tank and from the compressor to my paint regulator I set it at 29 for base and clear coat 35 for hvlp guns it depends if you have a lvhp its different and also how big of air compressor also will make a difference in your settings

@@OBSLyfe Thank you I do have HVLP spraygun the same one in this video but my question is do I need to adjust the air compressor psi settings as well? Or just the psi settings on the spraygun?

Also make sure you have a foot ball fan pattern that's even you should be good post it after you shot it good luck bro

I like the sound of that ziplock bag trick!

@@hc7760 it saves a lot of lacquer thinner. After I clean the gun I clean the cup with the same stuff I used to wash the gun so it gets used twice

@@eksine My next paint job wont be till it cools down. Florida's hot sun and rain showers during the summer make it nearly impossible. I may get to it sooner as my GF is going to allowing me to take up her garage for my projects. So Ill have to keep in mind that trick. and thanks again fot that most useful piece of advice!

How has the boat turned out?

@@hc7760 I'm still in the repair stage of the boat, hopefully next week I will have it ready to shoot!

@@Jack-bd2qn are you able to post pictures on here? Id love to see a before and after. Good luck to ya!

@@hc7760 boat is all done HC... I'd love to post pics but I haven't got a clue how

You are right on with that! When I was on the clear it was dumping- saturating onto the trunk lid. And I wasn’t thinking and instinctively pulled pack instead of trimming it down or increasing the air pressure and moving quicker. Partly because I didn’t spend enough time infront of a test board and partly because I didn’t know better to just stop and figure out what was going on. First time. My subsequent times have been much improved! And thanks for the advice!

Just as freindly advice. I am not trying to act the Guru here. As no one taught me and I went through the same process. The starting point of any spray gun is; set it up according to your compressor, do not use a Sata HVLP or Iwata WS400 on a say 24 litre direct drive compressor. I have over 25 guns and every one is different. But the rule of thumb is try to control the gun so there is adequate air pressure and then choke the material until you are happy. I would if shooting candy have more air and very little material and light mist coats, less over spray and dries faster. Build it up. If it is base and clear then second coat medium wet, third coat should be full wet and then a final control; orientation, drop coat on high pearls and coarse metallics. AND try using medium reducer, so there is reduced risk of solvents being trapped. Glad I can be of help. Be robot, have imaginary lines and follow the wet edge.

Wow that sounds like great advice! I have a couple projects coming my way that I might be able to try this on. I’ll definitely revisit these suggestions. Thanks!!