Its normal for an engine to heat up after you shut it off. The temp sensor is close to the heater hoses so its possible the temp sensor is see the temp different in the coolant temperature when you run the heater. If its not running hot when on I wouldn't be to concerned about it. Most of the vehicle I have owned over the years do the same thing. /K&K

@@KNKRNR Thanks so much for your reply ❤️

Gates years ago was good, yes agree quality is garbage now. /K&K

What year and model, 7.4l went through some changes between 1992-1999. /K&K

How many miles? Do you have heat coning out of the vents? Does it have a fan clutch or electric fan only model? If its running hot sounds there may be air in the system and coolant isn't moving. Did you use a new radiator cap? If it wasn't running hot before and is now there's a problem. /K&K

We build our videos for people with little to no repair experience to follow as a complete guide. /K&K

@@KNKRNR I understand. Thank you

I use to do that way years ago but its messy. Now we try to catch as much as possible before removal. /K&K

@@KNKRNR right. Thanks for the video

Yes it helps shed a twisting force because the pump is making high pressure. With out that bracket you will most likely blow the seals in the pump. Its a pain in the rear but there's a reason why GM used it. /K&K

You need to trace it back to its source. What year are you working? There is some minor changes over the years on power grounds for the 4WD system. /K&K

@@KNKRNR I'm working on a 1995 k2500

@@KNKRNR I just put a rebuilt transmission in and it worked before not now though

​@@TheSlimerider looking at the diagram I have, the transfer case switch sends the power to both the TLA, front axel switch. If it worked prior to the transmission removal and installation than you need to make sure the transfer case switch is getting power from the 4WD fuse in the panel. You need to figure out if its a power side problem or ground issue. Put it in 4WD turn the key switch on and test for power (light blue wire) with an alternate ground. If you have battery voltage its a ground issue, if no power is present then its a power side problem. For the power side check the transfer case switch on the transfer case. The ground side of the circuit looks like its on the engine block using a bell housing bolt. It may be possible when you installed the transmission the ground wire(s) may be not be making a good connection. Hope this information helps, please let me know what the issue was, I'm very interested to see what the issue is. /K&K

Rarely do we find a repair without some problem to sort through. /K&K

The black sleeve is a noise insulator. The pump is cooled internally so keeping at least 1/4 or more of fuel at all times in the tank would be better then removing the noise insulator. /K&K

Can you show to do take cover off

On3.8 1995 Buick

You need to watch part 4 timing cover removal, link below kzfaq.info/get/bejne/np53nZyH1NTRfpc.html /K&K

We use good coolant to neutralize the rusted coolant from the heater core then back flush with distilled water. Distilled water does not have additive to loosen scale up. As shown that heater core had a lot of scale build up. /K&K

Do you have access to an impact? You need to hit the cam bolt hard and fast to remove. /K&K

I don't have an impact :( I'll keep trying to figure something else out. I was able to use the belt for the crank pully to bind it, but that won't work with the cam.

The QX4 can be a difficult engine to learn on which is why we have done these videos to help others out. Our business email is [email protected]. We look forward to hearing from you. /K&K

The issue is those brass bleeders are they tend to leak after you use them. Anymore we just Vacuum bleed these newer vehicles. /K&K

That year uses an encoder motor on the transfer case to engage the 4Hi/4Low, you need to lift the truck up in the air as shown in the video and see if the front drive shaft is moving when engaged. If its not spinning either you have no power / signal to the encoder motor or the encoder motor is bad. It odd to me you hear a clunk from the front diff. Normally you would hear a noise from the encoder motor on the transfer case once you hit the switch to change modes 2hi/4hi/4low. /K&K

@@KNKRNRThank you for the quick response. The clunk could be the transfer case I just know it’s under the truck. So you don’t think it could be the actuator motor?

@@KNKRNR I’m sorry I listed the wrong truck the correct truck is a 1997 k2500 GMC suburban that I put a new switch in and all it does is make a clunk when switched to 4hi or 4lo. Would this truck also have the encoder motor that I should check?

Thank you for the awesome comment! What a deal for that easy fix! I suppose the T-case wasn't cheap to buy used? /K&K

@@KNKRNR Yeah I think it was a good deal. My dad was wanting to put a engine in the same truck he already has that blew. It was a 2wd so and engine would have been more work then the transfer case. I'm glad I didn't have to mess with the exhaust to fit that big old transfer case in. At a junkyard about 100 miles away he got it for 300ish and he bought a used front drive shaft to which was like 60 that he didn't necessarily need. It was a but thicker and had bigger ujoints so that was a plus. I actually went to the wrong junkyard one time and wasted a day doing that but oh well what can I say. There was also a company LKQ selling one for 300 deliverd to their department like an hour and half away. I'm glad for your video and glad to leave a good response on your channel.

Oh and no back fees on the truck but registration will be due and also a check engine light which we were told has something to do with the fuel tank but I haven't googled the code or nothing.

The ignition module under the coil pack controls the fuel injectors. if you have constant B+ voltage but no ground switching at the fuel injector connector(s) then replace the ignition module. You need to fix that ground wire first before condemning the ignition module. /K&K

Did you use a factory Nissan IAC or auto parts store part? Do you have any PO codes after or before replacement? /K&K

We don't normally replace the oil feed weep cap unless its gone, at that point you would have low oil pressure if it was gone. We make sure that the feed hole is open and clear. Generally chain stretch is what destroys the tensioner. The valve springs are a little heavy for this engine but they use them to keep valve float at bay during high rpm operations. If the weep hole is clear and clean I wouldn't waste the time to replace it. Most timing chains are feed from splash oil returning from the head to the oil pan. /K&K

I haven't seen an issue with plastic valve covers, they don't warp or rust out like steel can. They did make a change the PCV system when they switched to plastic valve cover. I'm not a fan of plastic by any means, but plastic valve covers are okay. /K&K

Much appreciated! For me its more of a wanting to paint them lol ​@KNKRNR

Yes, we always use a new rubber seal from the gasket kit and little RTV on both sides. /K&K

If you have the correct tools it is a 5 minute job. That harmonic balance bolt without an impact type tool is almost impossible to remove. /K&K

We can do this my friend

To me after 1996 GM went the wrong direction it only gets worse the new it gets. /K&K