Quick question were you able to use the factory bearings or you had to get new for the fat tire kit and would a 360 rear tire work ?

Could you tell me where I can get that rim and that rim? I have a Honda VTX 1300 05. I want to put a rim like that on it and if the same cardan shaft fits, oh well, there's no need to modify anything else..?

Wow, finished doors look great!

Can you do mine for me?

4 year update how are they?

You need a tripod, friend.

Perfect👍

I also have a hand-me-down 10" Craftsman Table Saw, which is in incredibly good shape. I see how you fit it to the bottom of the saw, but what about the area on the backside of the saw where the motor and belt are? How did you close that up? Thanks

I’m sorry that you didn’t care about the flatness. I have been maintaining shop tools for quite some time and cannot recommend this video to anyone.

I used to have that same saw, but finally got rid of it because getting new blades was such a pain.

DUST PROBLEM SOLUTION for saws with open splayed legs.: You will need: a) 2 040 Aluminum Sheeting 30.75”W x 34.L b) 8 6-32 x 3/8” Phillips truss head screw, for funnel assembly, Truss head on the inside. c) 8 #6 split Lock washers d) 4 #8 x1.0" hex head self drilling screws e) 4 #8 x1.5" hex head self drilling screws f) 2 Low Volume expanding foam g) 1 Silicone Caulk h) 1 Caulking gun i) 2 Pair Long rubber gloves j) 4 4” C-Clamps k) 1 ¾” or wider steel angle iron 36: long for bending aluminum l) 1 ¼” hex Screwdriver You need to make a low pressure area of high velocity under the saw. Remove the belt. Remove the motor mount from the saw by loosening two black 1/2" bolts. Next remove the base from the saw (Four bolts.) Remove the frame from the table top Wood is a terrible material for dust collection parts. Make templates from thick poster board or .020 thin rigid plastic sheet. You are making an object very similar to a big Gulp funnel. I tried the big gulp and it does not work well. Using .040 Aluminum (not wood!), You will create a four-sided aerodynamic smooth funnel that tapers downward into a chisel point. Choose what side you want to extract the dust the funnel will be in two pieces and have two seams. The side of t funnel with the port must be reinforced with two layers of aluminum at least 10"tall, 10"wide and bent reinforcements on both sides. and caulk into place on the inside. Heat / Anneal the areas where you intend to bend. Test fit and mark where it sits. The wall with the port must be vertical. Bend into a shape of a funnel. Caulk the seams. Caulk all the holes in the saw frame. Make a rubber gasket from .062- .125 "TH neoprene for the angle locking knob and glue into place with contact cement. Do the sale for the blade height wheel and angle slot. Make a long gasket with a slit in the middle of it. You have about 27" from the top of the base to the bottom vertically. Your funnel should be 1-2" off the ground and you want the funnel to extend upwards into the saw about 6-8". About 1/2" above the mark you made you want to cut the bends down to that line and temporally bend vertical into a rough rectangle and bend the corners 90° . This will allow you to put the saw back onto its base with the help of a friend. But not yet. Problem, is you have a lip inside the saw frame that needs to be covered with the aluminum above the base. Else Sawdust will accumulate. These aluminum "flanges" are bent inward to allow the table saw to be remounted onto the base. Drill two 3/16" holes into each side about 4-5" apart and a 1/2" height lower than the aluminum flange height. Into these holes you will eventually insert four #8 x1.0" hex head self drilling screws to hold the flanges at their maximum angle. Reattach the frame to the base without the saw. Now that you have the funnel made and ready put into place. DECIDE: You can either glue it in place with expanding foam or screw it in place to the base with four #8 x1.5" hex head self drilling screws placed through the base. To make it removable, you need to wrap the outside Saran plastic wrap. I chose not to. Either way, use LV expanding foam with long gloves and not Duct tape. Apply the foam behind all four Aluminum flanges Go slow but make sure it fills all the cracks and corners. Do one side at a time and then screw that side into place with the #8 x1.0" hex head self drilling screw. Then repeat for the next side. Use 3" wide Aluminum tape to seal any expanding foam seam leaks. Connect your 4" port to the funnel with 6-8 screws and caulk Allow to caulk harden for 48 hours. 2" wide Aluminum tape can be used to smooth out any rough edges by applying pressure only on the edges of the tape and not in the middle. TEST: Layout plastic 8 x 8' on the floor Get small bucket of sawdust and slowly pour it into the funnel from every angle without suction. shake funnel slightly and note with a marker where dust is accumulating. Remove any near horizontal lips or ledges and cover with Aluminum, tape. NOT DUCT tape. Duct tape will quickly dry out and fail.. Aluminum tape does not dry out. Clean up funnel and repeat test until there are no places saw dust can accumulate. TEST with Suction on. Same test. But do not skip previous test or you have wasted your time and money. Lubricate the saw. Reassemble the saw. Rear of saw is the air inlet. So no dust should accumulate here. You can adjust velocity by blocking off up to 50% of this area. But since the Motor swings with the trunnion you will never cover the entire area. If you did cover the entire area, you would slow down the air velocity and starve your dust collection system for air. You want to move alot of air very quickly You need BOTH suction above the blade for fine particles and below the blade for heavy particles. Use a cyclonic dust collector on a 25" or taller barrel. The taller the barrel the better they work.

I have the same saw only 10". I too was disappointed by the amount of sawdust that is uncontrollable. Mine had a bin underneath, for a vacuum, but dust built up so bad that it filled the saw enclosure. I found that I could use a 2" PVC Conduit "Sweep" elbow with a 1/2" Slot cut 3/4 of the way (on the inside curve) mounted under/around the blade let's me collect abut 90% of the dust and the little bit that falls on the floor can easily be swept up. I had to heat the end of the elbow so it would fit my vacuum hose. Works perfectly.

Yeah i shattered the mechanism the tabs are attached too which comes out the back. Not good at all, still connected though.

What cfm is vac rated at ?

Looks amazing!

Ok, so how much for you to do this in my kitchen? Lol

Lol. I've been using a cardboard box fitted to the base in a similar manner. Same size saw just the adjustment wheels and power switch are oriented differently. I'll just add the vacuum and off we go. Thanks for the idea. Saved me some dough.

Thank you for posting this video. So far I have restored 1965 Delta Unisaw that was very rusty using your knowledge. I have watched all the rust removal video's for years and nothing new has been explored...they are mostly the same and some are stupidly wrong with poor results. Also, they almost never remove heavy rust, usually only light to medium surface rust. I used electrolisys on the table parts and YES it did remove the heavy rust but left the metal dark grey after dipping/cleaning and the stains remained. I have tried sanding with wet-dry automotive sandpaper, wire wheel, and buffing with scotchbrite. Nothing seemed to get the finish I wanted especially without spending countless hours doing so. The simple wire wheel did an acceptable job that would have taken forever to complete. Frustrated, I was doubting the decision to purchase these old machines and was accepting the thought of having ugly table tops. On 9/18/23 I stumbled onto your video and was SHOCKED! I immediatly ordered the discs you recomend and some other's that were cheaper. I received the cheaper ones first (less than 12 hours) and tried it out on a third heavily rusted saw and it did EXACTLY what you said it would so I tried it on the actual saw I was restoring. In less than 24 hours from the time I watched your video I had a beautifull smooth light grey cast iron top on one of the saws and will be doing the next one today. It is hard to describe how well the finish came out. The many deep scratches are still there, but the top is smooth and glassy. I used a small wire wheel on a cordless drill to clean out the deep scratches and pitted rust, then I went over it with the disk you recomeded. The disk removed the dark oxidation and removed the micro scratches on the surface also the stains from people placing drinks on the table. I spent about 1-1/2 hours cleaning, "grinding", cleaning, grinding. The outcome is AMAZING, and I am totally impressed. I made this comment long winded on purpose because I wanted people to know this is the way to get the machine top you want without breaking your back or spending day's getting there. Thank-you so much for posting this video.....gamechanger!!!

great job👍

Hi I have a vtx 1300 cc 2008 however the original size tire are 170/80/15R Would you be able please to tell me what are the size you are using ? 240 by what?

😎👍

Cabinets can display anything. Nobody but nobody addresses the issue of shop dust covering the French cleat items. Cabinets with sliding doors will solve the problem. No back to cabinet. Hang French cleat items in cabinet. Use lexan panel for visibility. Your thoughts. Better yet build one and make the video!!!! Thx Bruce. Cleats and Cabinets ( sort of like root beer and ice !)

Thanks brother . That's exactly what I'm trying to do to my moms kitchen doors . Perfect video .

Is the silicone all that's keeping the glass in the frame?

100% unnecessary, but it does look kind of cool. I'd understand it on the 1800 though!

6:27 that’s what she said

I figured there had to be a way to reuse standard doors.

They look awesome

Great idea.

Great Video.... I going to do this in my kitchen. Thank you. You gave me a mini heart attach with the pretend cut.... but it was super funny!

Where did you purchase the rear rim

Hi is the glass tempered glass or plain glass?

That looks awesome would you consider doing that for someone I'd love to do that to my 09 vtx 1300 and how much would it cost

I am ending up more confused then when I started. Nothing was explained clearly.

Thank you!

Wish you showed what you did about the belt side in the back. nice video though.

Great idea. I might give this a try. I'll have to build a fixture like you did for routing the opening for the glass but that shouldn't be too difficult. Thanks for the idea and the process.

You can also use Mor-Flexx or Sika Flex both are made for this and have sand in it. also has close colors to choose from.l also.

I've gotten a lot of questions about the build. Everything I've done to the bike is detailed in the build log liked above.

Where did you buy the rim? I have a 07 Honda shadow 750, I'd love to do the same

You did a fantastic job. I want to try this😊

So we don't need points?

what size Tire is that and rim

we're can I find tha rim

do you know about the 409 trick? run a bead on edge spray 409 on bead now silicone will not not stick to anything else that the 409 is on. end up with a nice smooth clean look let dry and clean glass after silicone is ready

Or use a caulking that has sand and it will blend 100%

Excellent 👏👌👌

My frame had metal anchors. How do u take off the metal without breaking the gram?

Cannot see video