And dull your knife, but hey at least they got mashed potatoes

I used a tapered nipple. That is probably why I had to make it a precise length.

I actually installed it with pex piping all the way into the basement, through a ball valve and into a 3/4 inch main supply to not impede the water flow.

Basically 5 year car vinyl cut with a vinyl cutter (like a huge Cricut).

@@jrperki1 awesome, thanks!

Mine is over 19 inches above the stove surface. If all the measurements are equal, you could afford to put it a couple of inches closer. A 5 gallon bucket is only about 14 inches tall.

@@jrperki1 thank you so much. My stove grates sit at 37 inches above the floor. I have the same delta pot filler in chrome. Looks like the faucet is about 3.5 inches higher then rough in pipe. At 49 inches would leave the faucet at 52.5 inches which would be about 15.5 inches above the stove grates

@@tony2hotty mine is a glass top and i have it sitting at about 35.5 inches above the floor so your calculations make sense. I think you will be ok.

I just took it apart to verify. My Delta handle is splined so you can pop the little chrome cover off, take out the phillips screw and turn it any direction you want. I assume most are like that but I would definitely check before I bolted everything down.

I picked them out at a local shop alliedpaint.com/.

@@jrperki1 Thanks for the link. They obviously have items you can purchase instore that are not on their website, which is a pity. However, I have found somewhere in the UK to purchase the same pot filler you've got, so that's a good result. Cheers

@@abbyg5069 it is currently -9 degrees F (-23 C) here. If I get a chance, I will bundle up and stop by the shop and get the manufacturer details. I also have some extra tile in the original boxes which may help to identify it.

@@jrperki1 Oh, thank you James, that's really kind of you. The original boxes should have enough information on them for me to track down the manufacturer, so don't worry about going out in the freezing cold, as there's no rush. I've spent the past hour scouring the internet looking for similar tiles, but so far, no luck..... so any information you can give me, at a time that's convenient to you (really, there's no rush) would be greatly appreciated.

@@abbyg5069 The tiles are 20cm x 20cm Jewel Antracita (Shade 1A/W11) and Jewel Antracita Decorado (Shade 1A/W10). The tiles are made in Spain by a company called Ceramicalcora. I installed 4 tiles of the plain then 4 tiles of the decorated on a 45 degree angle to achieve the final design. We were going for a tin ceiling look and these ceramic tiles worked very well.

The lumber stores sell them for shower head installs.

I wish I had filmed that part because I have had several questions about it. I was more concerned about the measurements and mounting because I couldn't find much information about it. I am not a plumber and this installation was in my personal home. I am still very happy with my installation. The plumbing would be different for each home. My home was built in the 1990s and has hard copper plumbing. I cut a section of the copper pipe in a 3/4 inch cold water line that served a sillcock (outside garden hose). I soldered in 3/4 inch hard copper to pex adapters and inserted a section of 3/4 inch pex with a tee. I put a ball valve inline between the floor joists in the basement ceiling so I could shut off the water in an emergency and to allow me to keep the water on during the installation. My basement is unfinished and has 9 foot ceilings and I intend to use a drop ceiling when I finish it so I can still get to the valve.

They have a very high rate of flow between 2 GPM and 5 5 GPM so you can fill large pots quickly. My Delta pot filler is rated at 4 GPM. Whatever filter you use would have to be able to keep up with that flow rate. You would need to plumb it into the supply line that feeds the pot filler.

I'm just a diy guy. There is another video out there from a plumber. He might be able to give you an estimate.

Sorry. Just saw this. It would depend on your faucet but mine is 11.5 inches on center from the left side of a 30 inch opening. So 18.5 inches from the right.

Or 3.5 inches to the left of center.

Sorry I missed your question. I think it would be difficult unless you had access from the other side of the wall. Did you try it?

Cold water supply for cooking. The hot supply has all the concentrated minerals and other stuff from the hot water heater. People typically don't cook with it.

@@jrperki1 Thanks James for the reply , I did some more searching & found cold water is more desirable for cooking things like potatoes & others. Just my Luck , the hot water line was easer to tap into, now i got to kick the cold line 90' over 3'' off the stud. Oh well. ""Gumbo pot here I come''. Oh no, now I can heir Forest Gump talking about shrimp. LoL

I used mastic. If the plumbing leaks, the tile will be the least of my worries. There shouldn't be any steam behind the tile. My faucet came with a rubber gasket that should seal it up fairly well. You could always add silicone sealer around the pipe.

It was a little intimidating but it was a worthwhile project. I use the pot filler way more than I thought I would. I shot this rough, unscripted video as I worked through the install because I couldn't find a lot of information online. I am not a plumber and I had never installed one before so there may be other ways to install it but I am very happy with mine. I cut a small inspection hole in the sheetrock on the other side of the wall so I could drill for the plumbing. It was in a stairwell to an unfinished basement so I can easily repair it later. You could do the same thing at the bottom of the wall behind the stove. Every situation will be different. The screws that come with the faucet were maybe 2" long so I don't think they would have reached the blocking. I pre-drilled for 3" screws in the blocking at the same angle a toenailed nail would run and started all the screws before I put the blocking in the wall. I would temporarily attach the shower fitting to the blocking and screw in a long pipe and square the pipe to the wall or level it before screwing in the blocking. If you don't, your faucet might run uphill or downhill. I used a 5/16" Diamond Drill Bit that is specifically made to drill ceramic tile. Get the bit that is hollow with diamond grit on the end. This type of bit won't crack your tile. They are about $10 and work well.

James Perkins Awesome explanation! Thank you so much! I hope mine turns out as well as yours. You did a great job!

James Perkins hello again, I am at the point now of adjusting the brass nipple depth outside of the wall. The instructions call for 1/2” nipple outside the wall but in your video you indicated that you used a 1/2” nipple but then made it 1/4” shorter? Am I correct in understanding your nipple depth? If so, what was the reason for having the 1/4” instead of the 1/2”? Thanks again for your help and posting the video. It helped me tremendously.

@@bklyn2va2dc there is an escutcheon with a rubber o-ring that goes around the faucet and covers the screws. If the faucet sticks out too far from the wall, the escutcheon will slip onto the narrow part of the faucet nearest the wall and be loose. I would just error on the side of a couple of threads shorter vs. longer if you have a choice.

@@jrperki1 Hi James, I was curious too how you managed to shorten the nipple by a 1/4 inch. The sound was kind of muffled when you said it, so I'm hoping you can explain a bit more. I was thinking an angle grinder with a diamond disk could do the job, or is there a better method that you used? Thanks and look forward to your reply.

I don't. You need to make sure you don't blast deeper than the width of the line. It may look a little yellow in the beginning but all the bleach in the dishwasher turns it white pretty quickly.

Thank you!! One more question. I currently have glass media in my blaster which I use for glass and stainless. What do you use for your ceramic? Having a heck of a time researching it....

Sorry. I just saw this. I am fond of aluminum oxide. I wound up buying it from walmart.com really cheap and they delivered it to my house. I use it for all my glass blasting. I also upgraded the blast cabinet from that harborfreight one to a real Rayzist. I really like it and it is much brighter and cleaner. I found mine on craigslist and dove about 75 miles each way to pick it up from someone who had great intentions of using it but never did.

James Perkins perfect! I did end up ordering Aluminum Oxide. What grit do you find works best on the ceramic?

@@shellyhastrich22 I have been using 150 grit because I also do detail on glass. My last order was 6YY41 Blast Media, Aluminum Oxide, 150 Grit

The gear reduction has metal gears and is rated at 1.5hp input. It is a beast and I don't think you could break it if you tried. I always thought that taking a 1/2hp motor and adding a 10:1 reduction would be like putting a 5hp motor on the grinder. It will bog down if you put a huge chunk of frozen meat into it but any more torque and something would break.

Been combing ebay for a reducer...Do you think you could run chicken bones through with a larger plate?

+Truegrit Scott I never tried bone.

Also the 1:10 drops you to +/- 175 RPM. Do you find that speed perfect? Would you reduce or increase that?

+Truegrit Scott that speed or slower.

Motor is 1/2HP LEESON 1725RPM 56C TEFC 1PH MOTOR 102907.00 C-Face. Drive reduction via Winsmith 917 MDN 10:1. Adapted the different shaft sizes of the 10:1 and the grinder with Weasler weldable hubs from local farm and home store. Welded U-Bolt plates to the Weasler Hubs and connected them via a rubber steering flex disc from the auto parts store (VW or Toyota I think). It runs at about the right speed and it is pretty hard to bog it down. It weighs a lot but it is more portable than a belt driven arrangement.

Steering flex disc like this one: www.amazon.com/Dorman-31002-Power-Steering-Coupling/dp/B000CO77T6

This is epic