Γειά σου φίλε πως λέγεται το εργαλειο αυτό που έχεις

Where are u located?Wanna do mine too?😢

hey man I'm curious if you experienced something similar to me with the cam chain. I got everything bolted down and in timing according to the btdc125 triangle/intake camshaft timing dot with the cam cap line/exhaust camshaft timing dot with the cam cap line, and all my pictures. My concern is my cam chain was tensioned correctly with my APE manual CCT before turning the generator rotor to verify timing marks come back, and when I did see my timing marks in line after rotating engine (which was great to see) my cam chain now has considerable slack in the same spot where it was tight before on the CCT side of the chain. And the other side, away from the CCT becomes tight... one side of the chain is tight in some positions of the generator rotor, and the other side is tight in other positions... I was thinking this may be the way it was operating before I did this service... since I'm doing the first valve adjustment at 35,000 miles... maybe the cam chain has stretch and that causes this? I have the cam chain casing off making sure there was no weird kinks or slack when I got my camshafts rotated to get the chain on the right teeth. what do you think? any thoughts are appreciated.

Im at the point to do the tb sync im not sure which direction is what. Does Right lower the reading? And left increase reading? Or the other way around?

How important is it to have the restrictors cut in even lengths?

Hey man, I'm confusing myself here because the example in the manual I think is the opposite situation I have with my exhaust being too tight. Could you straighten this up with some verification of my math? I measure 0.21 on my exhaust, spec is 0.26 minimum 0.30 maximum. I'm 0.05 away from minimum spec. The bucket is tight against the lobe so I need to create a bigger gap. meaning the new valve shim should be a smaller number than the current shim installed, correct? This thinner shim would drop the bucket down and put me in the spec clearance, I understand that, but which shim number would be best for this specific scenario? Current shim is 180 (1.80mm). Does this mean if use a 175 shim, that would adjust this valve previously reading 0.21 from 0.21 to 0.26? If this is true, then the next option would be 170 shim which would adjust it to 0.31 which is out of spec, so I guess if this math is correct then I only have one shim option to replace the current shim with to make the adjustment into spec, which would be the minimum of the spec. range at 0.26. Any of this sound familiar to you, and any advice you might have?

did you find the easier way to reassemble cams in timing after the exhaust cam rotates coutnerclockwise when removing the CCT like that?

sounds like butter, i brought mine with light ticking and neutral sounds like crap

You save my life ...great video man ..thanks a lot !

Hook wrench size?

My man, thanks for the videos and work put in. The takes for the coffee break included had me cracking up very well done.

Why is it important to have the OEM tool or make a similar one, I have a normal allen key and can I do the job, or am I doing something wrong?

👍🏻 Good video i subscribed. Thanks.

When the engine is working how does it compress 0,7" (3:20) if when you squeeze it (1:58) it only goes 1/16" and something is stoping from going further back (certainly the screw that you twist for it to retract) ? 🤔 Did i just understood it wrong or the whole actual play is just the 1/16" while the engine is working and the extra length it goes back is just for instalation purposes?

Very informative!

very helpful, thank you!

You should tighten the left hand cam holders before the right, so that the small amount of valve lift is taken up by the middle cyliner cam holders first. Tightening the right cam holders first applies a bending force to the camshafts. Nice clear vid - thanks

Could you have marked the chain and cams before removing them? Then assembly would be much more easy?? And agree about removing the lower cover!

As it can be seen from the video your bike's seat - like 100% of FZ/MT 09 1&2 Gen - has a huge gap between the tang and the holder on the tank that means that the seat wiggles A LOT. To solve this you could stick a proper size teflon chair leg pad under the tank holder roof, so that it can hold firmly the tang. it's invisible and effective. If the hooks are loose themselves, you could cover them with heat shrinkable sheath. A bit of silicone grease on the lock trigger it does no harm to make the open close process easier

I'm not through all the videos yet, so you may address this, but a thought occured to me. If I do all the calculations in advance could I just lay out the shims I will need and as I pop each shim out, just replace it with the correct size?

Is it a 3mm Allen?

Thanks, nice to know my 70 degree garage (in phoenix) will be fine for checking my valves (2015 FJ-09). Thanks for your other videos as well, I just ordered feeler gauges after watching another one of your videos.

that’s a sick stand! about to do a top end rebuild, thanks for all the info.

Hi thank you for your videos they are fantastic. Question. Can I cable tie the two chains together with the timing chain cover removed and then pull out the guide and replace it with a new one the rear guide only and tensioner as well. Thank you in advance

Have a question about removing the tensioner. I read to never do it on a mounted engine. However I see yours is mounted. Do you know why they recommend not to do it on a mounted engine?

Greetings from Germany... i watched your videos to do it on my own rn43 sp. it helped me. very good made videos thank you

Great video thanks , I've noticed none of my screws have any white paint on them , would would you recommend and is there any other way of knowing what the main throttle body is

is yamaha r6 and r1 valve shims are same or not

you are a great teacher

Perfect! I can apply this on my Yamaha Sidewinder snowmobile.

I am also a tall guy and work on my multistrada gives me serious back pain, mind you I am only 26😂. One question about the stand. As you lift it in a wheelie position,or just the normal level position and then proceed to remove the forks and wheels from the bike, does any movement happen in the stand? From the weight shifting as you remove heavier components

Great demonstration on the inner working of the valve cover. TY for sharing! 🤜🤛

If you were out of timing your valves would hit and the motor would not spin

Bro, you’re amazing for making every single on of these videos. Thank you so much 🙏🏻

So you should probably mention that when you take off the seat it is the very back little square that releases only on the left of the bike. Video says it’s a removal and reinstall but the only thing you showed was the reinstall not taking it off after taking 45 minutes to figure it out I got it but would be helpful if you SHOWED THE WHOLE PROCESS

where you get the shims from?

wow you'd think Yamaha would have come up with a better design on that spacer by now ,just did 2020 tracer and its all the same ,I wrap the spacer with some teflon tape to hold it in snug ,once I got the faster started I installed the lower spacer ,,then used a funnel to fill reservoir thanks for the vid

Hey whats wrong with the radiator, if there is any

nice job, how you feel the actual riding differences compare to OEM shock?

I'm following the playlist order and am guessing you didn't happen to record taking the front forks off. Do you believe it to be worthwhile to remove the forks for the valve clearance job? Reviewing the manual it doesn't seem to be required and I can see the benefit. Curious to your opinion.

I definitely forgot to read the manual, that's why my gauges were jumping as madman when trying to use this device the first time :)

Greetings from "across the pond". Just about to dump some cash on a set of these gauges; so it's good to see how they're made ready for use. Have you made a video of you actually synching your bike's carburettors with them?.

Brilliant series of videos, I've got to do my MT10 soon, might buy an ABBA stand looks good

The position of the angle gauge before (12:20) and after (12:50) re-positioning are the same as the original placement (2:40). The crankshaft position generated is OK. There is just no point in removing the angle gauge only to put it back where it already was. The use of the gauge to rotate the crank for checking the valves on cylinder two is identical to what needs to be done, later, to check cylinder three. Using the gauge is important because the cam's base circle (low spot) is very small on this engine. Before I knew about this video I eye-balled the rotation for checking #2 and #3. That was OK on other engines I have worked on. Not this one. I got the rotation off by a few degrees which resulted in all my valve clearance measurements being incorrect. After much effort I got the cams re-installed and aligned, thanks to other videos in this series. When I went to verify the new clearances were correct almost all of them were wrong. I had to remove the cams, re-install the original shims, install the cams again, then take new measurements. That was a lot of work I wouldn't have had to do if I had seen this video before I started the valve clearance process. I'm really glad I now know about how to make and use an accurate crank rotation and positioning gauge. My point here is that it only needs to be positioned once, then it can be used twice, for #2 then #3.

Putting the cam chain tensioner bolts in is really tedious. Has to be done one face of the bolt at a time. The wrench has to be removed, rotated, then re-inserted many times. It goes a lot easier with a tiny squirt of WD40 into the bolt head and a tiny squirt on the the end of the Allen socket wrench.

A Pro AMA mechanic told me to always use Red Locktite on motorcycle nuts and bolts. Despite warnings on the label about having to use heat, they are small so can be broken loose using hand tools. As a result, I have been using Red Locktite on everything for forty years with good results.

Like the video shows, it can be difficult to rotate the exhaust cam enough. I made another tool with a longer handle/lever arm and then it was easy to rotate the exhaust cam.

This tool is really important because the cams have a very small part at minimum distance. I tried to do the job by just guessing at rotating the breaker bar about 240 degrees. I was off enough that all my clearance measurements, and thus all my new shims, are incorrect. I do have a nit to pick here, though. The narration is in mm. However, the caliper's display is in inches. The spoken words are 26mm and 13mm, but the display is 2.6 and 1.3 inches. Oops :-)

Is there a gas shut-off valve?

2000 views that's awesome