Is the pdf still available?

I had to come back and find you after a few years with a different username. Glad to see you're okay Tom. I know a guy on my gardening forum that lives in the UP. Known him for many years.

How does wire help?

This is the first video I found that talked about the clearance angle which I found to be the most important part. Finally got my lug drilled out

This is great, but emphasize: UNITS MATTER! The formula relies on surface speed in feet per minute and tool diameter in inches, resulting in spindle speed in rpm. DO NOT USE THIS FORMULA WITH METRIC UNITS--convert your values to sfm for the material and inches tool diameter, then plug in.

An excellent tutorial. Thank You

Azért ez a megoldás már jó .Majdnem ugyanezt a megoldást alkalmazom, csak én az élétől a hátlapot egyívben köszörülöm .Amit itt láttam az tökéletes

Tom.... I'm beginning to wonder whether or not the compound should be set at 90 deg minus the Helix angle?? Common practice says to move the single point at 60 or 60.5 but I'm now questioning that. I've done a lot of threading as per standard but gut feeling is saying to examine that compound angle and maybe who knows? I understand the argument about the tool cutting on the leading edge but if the tool is set correctly to the axis, ANY compound angle.... ANY angle, is going to to cut a thread. Only Depth will be reached after probably too much metal is removed sideways to get there. However, what's happening with each turn on the compound is that the Lead Screw to Spindle Ratio is now messed around minutely. This does not happen on the so called 90 deg plunge threading. The lead (and Ratio), remains exactly the same with every pass.... Even if there are 100 of them. The other thing is that if you view a thread from above with the 60 deg tool in position, it looks for all money that it should move forward directly on the Helix line..... ?

Dude, its been 12 years since you did this but you still just sped up how fast I indicated my mill vice back.

Thanks for the tips on using these. A point about the filing near the end - instead of rocking the file forward (away from you) over the sharp edge, start on the back side and rock the file back towards you. It feels weird at the start but only a tiny bit of practice to get the feel of it and you will find it’s far easier to make a very nice filed radius. Cheers, al

I made one years ago and funny enough found it again this weekend,so I’m sure to use it. Great stuff

Very interesting. Nice work. Thanks for sharing your experience.

Shouldn’t you have taken .009 off of both sides to ensure the pocket is center? Since you were .005 short on the backside? So in theory you’d be .005 off center

After watching several videos comparing various drill bit sharpening machines and the prices for them, the bench grinder seems the most practical by far since it can be used for other things, not just sharpening drill bits. So it will take some practice but from what I've seen the results are at least as good with the bench grinder and the most cost effective. Nice work on your video and explaining how to do sharpen bits.

Wow super impressed and I'd like to try this project myself I think I have the same bandsaw thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world I can speak for myself I really appreciate your knowledge

I retired with 34 years machine shop experience, with at least half of the years being a Milling machine specialist- meaning my entire work day was using Milling machines. A couple of additions I'll make is that the conventional Milling pull on the cutter can actually undercut the metal being machined. If the operator checks a part thickness and notes there's for instance, .200 of material left to remove and in turn positions the table to remove .200, the resulting cut cut may actually take off more than .200. This is because the conventional cut will "pull" the cutter into the material being machined. This result is compounded when using a long narrow cutter that bends easily. The operator may have a layout line on the top of the part but after the conventional cut completes, the bottom of the machined part thickness may be undercut while the top layout line is still visible . This is because the cutter bends in at the bottom during conventional cuts. The opposite occurs with climb cutting - the bottom of the cutter is deflected off of the part - resulting in a tapered thickness with the bottom being thicker. If one made a climb cut pass to the layout line on top, the bottom of the part may be thicker. If the operator floats the cutter back across the part in a conventional direction, the bottom of the part may be undercut. This will all vary with the length and diameter of the cutter along with how much material is being removed in one cut. Aircraft machine shop.

An excellent video. If I might make one suggestion, I would take a Sharpie pen and mark the top face of the tool before grinding. If you're new to this activity, it is quite easy to confuse which face you're working on - especially if you're grinding tools for working on brass bar where you don't actually need to grind away any of the top surface.

Thanks

👍👍Very good!

你好，能分享一下图纸吗？

Brazing over welding when joining bandsaw blades together. It's still sheet metal which is very hard to do. I also recommend brazing over aluminum so aluminum can take away excess heat from the torch. Yes, like a heat sink.

Nice carriage stop, nicely made and a great video, I also subscribed 😊

Still missing your videos...hope all is well up there in wonderland!

I'd already be done with my Drill Doctor.

Thank you for your experience on this topic.

I keep coming out with a taper on at least one side 😢 it's breaking my heart

This is exactly the type of video a novice (being generous here), like me needs. Haven't touched a lathe since shop class in jr. high school 50 years ago and unfortunately didn't pay as much attention as I should have. Interested in buying a small lathe for my garage, reading and watching video's but some of the most basic questions like how to position the cutting tool, which cutting tool to use and rotation of the lathe never get answered. Thanks for putting this together.

Hello Tom Just wondering what happened to ur video posting. It’s been too long since u have posted. Are you ok??

Thank you! This is what I needed. 🍻

4:20 "If you're using a lantern-type toolpost... good luck. They're not known for their rigidity, and your chances of successfully parting are GREATLY REDUCED using a lantern-type or rocker-type toolpost." Truer words were never spoken! Last weekend I needed to make a gib screw for my '42 SB 10R, and used a 1-1/4x4" bolt for stock. I decided to part the head off... there's an hour I'll never get back. I should have used a hacksaw, I'd have been done sooner! 😂 Next payday: a parting tool holder for my turret toolpost...

Thank you.

You´re website is offline?

thank you so much! super informative

CLICK. 2 minutes falling asleep onto next video of some one else who "GETS TO THE POINT".LOL GET IT?

THUMBS DOWN TALKS TOMUCH WASTE TIME

Most videos don't make or speak about that secondary cut or the third. Thank you for covering those.

Been a Tool Maker / CNC Programmer for 27years I watched this video and was like of course this is how u square a block I guess I thought everyone was taught 2 square blocks this way, until I read the comments and am blown away that there's machinist out there that never were taught this. Only diffrence I would say is I don't use a ball pien hammer I use a dead blow and after having 3sides milled I then put in 2 parallels instead of 1 but apart from that I've always used a pin if I don't have 2ground sides across from each other. Don't try and tap block down until u have a ground edge against non moving jaw and edge sitting on parallel u will fight a loosing battle is the only other tip I can give, allow the back jaw and pin in front 2square ur block until u have a milled surface 2sit on parallel. Nice vid.

What I like most with fly cutters , is that you can cut much larger diameters than with most face mills in one pass. The finish is always better, at least visually. Thanks for the video.

Would have taken me 45 minutes to an hour to cut that. Gonna try again using your tips.

Puzzled ...why not raise it up on the wheel in the first place then you'd be grinding the angle and the clearance at the same time .

Did u have this blueprint

👍

❤

Thought you want 2 flutes for aluminum.

You got to remake the video because every time you show The edge you show it below where the camera sees I mean you're just below but I cannot see the edge to see what you're showing us

If i knew this earlier, I would be richer now by 25 USD

❤what about feed rate😊

Have you try to weld bi- metal the same way Thanks

Thank you very much, finally, me being a novice, got a grip on this 👍

You said you went over your diameter of your edge finder I’m confused why don’t you just do the normal finding your edge wait for the edgefinder to kick out go over .100 or the radius of your edge finder zero out and then your spindle is in centerline with the edge, so therefore, you can just add radius compensation Then is that what you mean?