Thanks robertsmith9756, appreciate that a good deal. This would be tough to do on the ground, as you'd need to have the rear of the car quite high in the air to allow the tank out past everything. You'll want to have a look at your wife's car just to be sure that this trick will work for you at all - I have only one Outback of this generation that comes to my shop, and I'll be honest that I've forgotten to look at it when its been in to see if the trailing arm setup is the same as my two Legacys'. One thing I will suggest is to pre-soak whatever you can get at at least once in advance of tackling it; southern Ontario is just as bad as Michigan for salt! For you to do it on the ground, you may be forced to completely remove the rear suspension to have enough space to pull the tank. Considering the salt/breakage potential with that process, you might be further ahead to pay someone with a hoist to do it. Either way, I wish you the best of luck!

Provided that a) you can tap into that 12 volt source, and b) that 12V source has enough capacity to run a fan, you should be fine.

@@2BlackStripes thanks for the reply. I'm going to give it a shot.

Hi Kenny, sorry for the delay in responding. 2003 is the previous generation, so I can't say with certainty if it's going to work exactly the same. That said, Subaru tends to make incremental design changes, so if you were to look at your car closely to see if it uses a similar layout and it did, I'd try. I have done a tank in a 2011 Outback (at work, couldn't video it) and had to undo the rear subframe entirely - leaving it still attached to the struts - which worked fine and went back together fairly easily. Best of luck if you haven't already tackled it!

At the time that I did my installation, the 4Runner's pre-collision system was so recent of an addition to the model that there wasn't much information out there. No mention of any of that then, and I merged the RedArc harness with the adapter Toyota left in the glovebox as seen in the video. I didn't notice a diode in that harness, so I guess Toyota didn't see fit to include one. The diode I spliced in was just me thinking on my feet as a tech that does a lot of auto electrical. Our RedArc is still working great - actually had to perform a shorter than comfortable stop on the weekend from about 80K/50mph and I could feel the trailer helping appropriately (thankfully!). If you can isolate the brake signal feed wire in yours you can just backfeed 12 volts in to it to simulate you pressing the brake and eliminate the truck. (The power, ground, and controller output will still be to/from the truck, of course. And the RedArc won't fully power up until it senses a connected trailer, so you'll have to do that or spoof the load with a head light bulb or something. Good luck!

Glad the video was of some use. Yes, it's a bit of a trade-off with the Vortex II in that it does perfectly fit the standard 14" vent aperture without substantial modification (at least in our trailer, and I suspect it would be the same in most as the RV manufacturers all seem to use the same suppliers...), but it is noisier and less effective than a full vent replacement could be. Like yourself, I viewed not having to disturb my leak-free roof as more important, and frankly, the Vortex II is effective enough that I'm satisfied with the choice. If it eventually dies, I may reevalute that, but for now it does the job - fortunately, without drawing in waste tank odours in our TT.

In applications where one of RedArc's blanks will fit, no drilling is required to mount the control knob. Our 4Runner wasn't one of the listed models, but I guessed by the shape that one for other Toyotas was right, and it was. (And will be, right up to the 2023 model year.) Worst case, you'd have to drill a small hole. If your vehicle has blank switches, you could use one of those, and if you ever wanted to return it to stock, you'd just need to find another switch blank. Now, mounting the actual control unit, you might have to drill a hole or two, but I was able to find spots in our 4Runner that lined up well enough that I didn't. (At least any of those holes would be out of sight anyway...) My only "complaint" is that the supplied, numbered bezel prevents the knob from being pushed, or at least did in mine. M pretty sure that RedArc has a new knob style now, so the new one might fit better.

Haven't had any visible issues with insects finding those. To be honest, I've never seen a bug even on the main part of the screen. Perhaps between the roof-top location of the vent and the vent cap we have, they just don't find it in any numbers.

Nope, you are 100% right. I'd hoped it might, but if anything, it's louder now. Thankfully for us, it's in our bathroom, far enough from our bed that it's not objectionable unless it's on high speed, which we seldom use. Still an improvement over the useless stock fan. If I weren't hesitant to disturb the roof seal, I'd definitely have spent more and bought a Fantastic Fan or some other higher quality model.

If you're willing to deal with disturbing and resealing the roof, the MaxxAir would 100% be a better choice for both airflow and noise levels. I wasn't feeling ambitious enough to go there myself, and we have roof air and always camp where shore power exists, so worst case, we have to fire that up. I view the Vortex II as an acceptable compromise in exchange for not having to deal with weatherproofing. It's still a substantial improvement over the comically tiny fan the trailer came with. Laughably, we went to an RV show last weekend and there's still lots of 2023 models coming with that same useless fan! Thank you for the feedback, and best of luck with your upgrade! I fully expect that you'll be very happy with the MaxxAir.

You're probably 100% right. As stated in the video, the primary purpose for my removing that was not to access the blanks (you could even just reach up from underneath for the lower one for sure, probably the upper ones too), but to mount the brake controller's module. It's possible that I could have done that without pulling the panel as well, however it's simple enough to remove and made my life much easier. Having it out of the way also made filming easier! Now that I've tracked down a Party Mode switch, I can finally put that in to the factory location, and I'll give your suggestion a go for sure. Thanks for viewing, and thanks for the feedback!

Appreciate the positive feedback, thank you! I suspect that the installation will be otherwise the same. The pre-collision system was introduced on the 2020 models, and I don't think that at the time many folks had encountered that issue. Although another viewer suggests that newer RedArc Elites come with a diode, I can't say for certain if that's the case, or if RedArc or anyone has updated their information to reflect that. Theoretically, this PCS brake signal feedback error would be a problem with any brake controller, not just RedArc's. I'm a working tech that specializes in electrical, so I just quickly cobbled up the diode work-around, and the controller has worked perfectly since. It just won't activate the truck or trailer's brake lights if I manually apply the controller without also applying the truck's brakes as well. I can live with that compromise. I fully expect that your 2017 will be virtually identical (other than that 2020+ issue) as the interior trim and trailer wiring itself is probably exactly the same. Toyota's changes to these trucks has been incremental for the most part - a plus in my eyes. Your brake lights should also apply with the controller's manual function, of course. Good luck, have fun, and enjoy!

The 4Runner could definitely use a transmission with more speeds to choose from. Needs 4th and a half to improve highway mileage, 3rd and a half on hills. Funny, I joked with my wife just tonight about supercharging her truck once the powertrain warranty is done... In reality, it's liveable, might not be if we regularly travelled in mountainous areas, but ok here in Onterrible. We keep our vehicles forever, so as a working auto tech, I'm reluctant to give up our anvil-simple, crazy reliable Toyota. I'd never buy a modern diesel as a long-term ownership purchase, obvious benefits notwithstanding. Expensive nightmares from all of the emissions crap as it ages. (A friend that has one of those GM 3.0 diesels loves it. He won"t keep it past the warranty though.) Besides, Mrs 2blackstripes doesn't want a pickup, and she loves her roll-down rear window. Thanks for commenting!

Thanks, I really appreciate the insights.

Assuming we're talking about the same parts, the lines will almost certainly be dealer-only parts. Kits do exist to make and repair plastic (and steel) lines, but for a one-time use are probably too costly to be worth it. The larger hoses for the filler and vent would also be dealer parts - if any of it is still available - but you might also be able to find used ones at a wreckers. Lines include feed or pressure, vent (evaporative emissions), and in some, return. There may also be equalizing or balancing less going from one sending until to the other.

Mrs.2BlackStripes likes to be well equipped, so I'm confident that we're over the trailer's GVWR. I try to avoid carrying more than an absolute minimum of fresh water to avoid adding to that weight at least, filling up at the campground if there isn't "city water" hookup. I mention all that for context. The 4Runner definitely knows it's back there, and as per Toyota's recommendation, we tow in "S4", locking out 5th. We also have equalizer bars and a sway brake that I usually use when it's loaded; they do help with stability and rear axle bounce over bumps. Our storage location is under 20 minutes from home, and I just use the factory drawbar to and from, with no issues, so if your trailer isn't bursting at the seams, you may be fine like that. The only quirk I've noticed is likely down to the single axle, and that's a sensitivity to larger vehicles traveling the same direction and their position relative to the trailer. If they're behind the axle (or ahead of the axle), I can feel air pressure pushing the tongue sideways a bit, enough that I have to apply a very small amount of correction to the steering. Unnerving at first, now I don't really notice it. Provided the brakes and controller are adjusted correctly (you probably will end up making minor adjustments to gain as you're traveling), that should be fine too. Just have to remember that even with the trailer helping, your stopping distance will still be muuuuch longer. Good luck, and happy camping!

Hi Peter, sorry to take a while to get back, was on vacation! The Redarc Tow-Pro Elite, we got ours from etrailer.com: www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brake-Controller/Redarc/RED44FR.html The switch blank that did fit our 2020 4Runner (and should fit any 4th-gen 4Runner): www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Redarc/331-TPSI-002.html Cheers!

2016, but yes, Viking 17FQ - good eye! If you have a 2017, you might like my other video about some of the little changes and upgrades we've made to ours. Have a look and see what you think!

It's unfortunate that the Heng's fan died on you, and I'm not surprised that a replacement motor costs almost as much as the whole thing. I'm actually amazed that you were able to find one at all. So far, so good for ours. I'd hoped that it might become slightly quieter as it wore in, but that has not proven to be the case. At least in our trailer its location in our bathroom puts it far enough from our bed that it's not all that noticeable on low speed. As you noted, it does do the job. If this one were to die, I think I'd probably bite the bullet and put in a complete vent and fan from Maxxair or Fantastic Fans, but I'm satisfied with the Heng's and not having to disturb my roof seal to get that airflow improvement. Thank you for commenting!

@@2BlackStripes happy to hear yours is holding up. I replaced ours with a Fan tactic. It wasn’t as difficult as expected to remove the old cover. Installing the new one pretty straight forward, though be careful to center so the inside trim can be fitted and new wiring isn’t in the way. Ask how I know… The new fan is much quieter. We have Max air covers. It does not fit well over the Fan tactic fan for two reasons. It’s not tall enough to open the fan fully and the molded pins on the housing to mount a Fan tactic cover are in the way for using the Max air cover. I may use my Dremel saw to trim them off rather than put out $90 for the Fan tactic cover. TBD.

Thank you for the link! After looking as closely as possible at the single image provided by etrailer.com, I don't see a diode integrated into that harness, so while it would indeed save joining the Toyota OE connector to the one that comes with the Tow-Pro, I think you'd still find yourself having to splice in a diode in a 2020 or newer 4Runner to keep the PCS happy. It would probably be a nice, simple, plug-n-play for 2019 and older models though - I appreciate you sharing that with me!

I'm pleased that you were able to take something from the video, thank you! Your suggested stick-on lights would definitely be a much easier solution to the problem than hard-wiring them like I did. I'm a bit of an electrical nut, so I went that route instead. Thanks again for the positive feedback and the good idea. Happy Camping!

Toyota rates the 4R at 5000 lbs, which I think is a bit generous, given how it handles the 4k-ish trailer we have, but your Scamp will be an easy tow for it. If the trailer has brakes, I'd still highly recommend a brake controller to use them even at that light weight. In an emergency, every little bit matters. Also aids stability. Happy Camping!

Thank you! I considered the running light option, but since we're planning on putting LED underlighting on it in the spring (and possibly an under-awning strip as well), I decided that those sources would be enough on their own. That would be a much simpler, and far less expensive way of getting some added perimeter lighting.

Similar sound, very different income levels!

It's definitely a solid alternative, and would save having to fuss with mounting the Tow-Pro under the dash of our truck. I decided to go with a unit mounted to the truck, rather than the trailer, on the off chance that I end up towing a different trailer at some point, either my camping buddy's (if his tow vehicle had a mechanical problem while away), or a large utility trailer that I have access to. If that were not the case, or if we had multiple tow vehicles and one trailer (such as a property maintenance fleet sharing a deck trailer), the Tekonsha would be a great choice.

Glad that you enjoyed it! I appreciate it!

The Vortex drop-ins are both intended for standard 14"x14" vents, which are really common in trailers and RVs. You can steal 12 volt power from a nearby light, if you have one. Not sure if you'd be able to modify it in some way for your application, but I'd have to guess that it'd be difficult given the size of the Vortex's fan and the way it's mounted. What might work better for you if you can't find something more suitable is a pair of computer cooling fans - they are also 12 volt, and I've seen others on KZfaq use them in RV's before. Likely won't move a ton of air, but they'll certainly be better than no fan at all! Good luck!

16 x 8 sounds like a refrigerator vent. These are intended to vent the actual RV cabin.

Exactly. We've used it on several trips now and I'm quite pleased with it. I've personally recommended one to a few people now.

That would definitely be the best solution if you didn't have the interface plug. Not having pre-collision, I'm assuming that your truck was fine having the brake lights activated by applying the controller manually, so probably no need for diodes. PCS did not like that one bit on ours! (Adding the diode to that circuit solved the problem in our truck.)

Update: Towed 2 different trailers and all working well. I would highly recommend buying the Toyota harness (mine didn't have one in the glove box) but if you're in a pinch, these color matches do work.

Our trailer is a single axle rated within a few pounds of 3500. We're probably at that or a few over. Our economy varies considerably with speed. On a trip with a subtle but consistent gain in altitude where we tried to stay with the flow of traffic (110-115 km/h or ~70 mph) we saw somewhere in the 27L/100 km (~9 mpg) range in the trip computer, and nearly ran out of fuel from a full tank in under 300 km. Keeping it closer to 100-105 (65ish) on less hilly terrain still sees us into the high teens to 20L/100 km range (so, closer to 12 mpg). That's also following Toyota's direction to use "S" mode to manually lock out 5th gear. The 4Runner's gearing is such that 5th is just a bit too tall most of the time anyway. This vehicle may be rated for 5000 lbs and would likely move it, but it wouldn't be happy. I'm glad it has the ancient but bulletproof 5 speed auto in most ways, but having 6 gears to choose from would probably help the towing mileage appreciably.

@@2BlackStripes Thank you for the data! An 8sp transmission is greatly needed!

Hi Math123, I used the harness supplied with the Redarc controller and connected it to the factory jumper harness that was in the glovebox of our 4Runner when we bought it (Toyota part number 82132-60110). I specialize in vehicle electrical work, so patching a simple harness together was easiest for me. I had a look at Redarc's website to see the harness you've mentioned, and the listing suggests that TPH-021 is for '14 to '19 4Runners. I can't say if Toyota changed their connector for 2020 and newer models, but it is possible. Also possible that the Redarc TPH--021 would plug right in, but cause the same feedback issue, since it's unclear whether a diode is built in to that harness, and 2019 and older 4Runners did not have the pre-collision system and may not have needed one.

I contemplated that spot as I too felt it would be more convenient. The counter-sunk spot had me worried that I might not be able to grab the knob that easily, so i went to the left, which has worked out fine for on-the-fly adjustments. If memory serves, RedArc's listing for that blank doesn't actually show this generation of 4Runner as one of the applications it fits. Thank you for the compliment, glad you liked it!

If you are referring to the harness that comes with the controller itself (as opposed to the vehicle specific ones available from RedArc), I can confirm that this is not the case, at least not at the time we bought ours (early 2020). When used in conjunction with the factory harness connector that came with our 4Runner, dashboard Christmas resulted as soon as manual control was applied. Splicing the diode into the brake light feed circuit corrected that. Because I already had the Toyota end of the harness (and am quite comfortable doing automotive wiring), I didn't bother buying a completed one through RedArc. Helpful information for others, though. Thank you!

Since both the 4Runner and controller came with cables and I'm proficient in electrical work, it was easy for me to make my own by joining the two. Good suggestion, as I wouldn't have even thought to investigate the pre-made option.

Thank you for the positive feedback!

It was late by the time I'd finished installing and videoing, so when the PCS malfunction occurred and I figured out the solution, I just grabbed a diode I had handy from a container of components I have and made the repair. Never even thought to record it. If memory serves, it's a 1/4 Watt rectifier diode, though you could probably use something with a lower rating as there's very little current applied. It's oriented to permit power from the truck's brake light circuit to reach to controller as an input, but not be fed back out, so no truck/trailer brake lights on with the controller applied manually, but normal function in all other ways. I'd be happy to elaborate if you have any other specific questions about the job.