Bless You

I love my cover stitch machine

That's the exact ruler Marines use to make sure their ribbons are on correctly.

It's a sewing ruler to help with hemming. You set the blue gauge to the length of the hem, then you line the edge of the ruler up with your hem. Fold the fabric up and pin in place. Slide the ruler down and repeat process.

does it save material to do it that way?

All you had to do was ask a woman who sews … maybe your mom???

Glad to see a curved waistband here, I don't think I've had men's pants with that before but I discovered a while ago that those stay up over my lack of hips with no room between rib and hip better than a straight one when I'm making skirts! I had some stretching issues with mine where it's on the bias so what I did was make sure my two layers were rotated from each other so that anywhere one's on the bias, the other's not. Kinda works! Would probably work even better if I could find my interfacing. Next challenge (I try to have no more than one new challenge per project), a fly! I'm barely adequate at skirt plackets and I've practiced welt pockets on some of my wearable mockups. And I'll be coming back to watch this again next skirt placket, that's a lovely crisp corner on the waistband!

0.75 is literally the perfect amount for stretch fabric. Amazing, saved me a lot of trial and error

I don't sew, but maybe you pin the blue the very end, make your 1" marks, then slide to the very end and mark? Idk. Never mind I just read your update before I posted this.

You don’t need layers of fabric to use the pins - just a cardboard cutting board.

Very interesting 😀

I wish, peace, joy, love, healing. God bless you, Sir.

anwsered all my questions

Not something I thought that I was going to learn today, but it came up in my YT feed and I thought, sure I'll check it out. Interesting stuff and would have been useful when I took a Home Ec class in middle school during the late 1980s.

I need to know where you got that sick hat from.

but if you are near any flame you are in trouble

What you appear to have is a hemming gauge. It is meant to be used for placement inside garment hems to ensure they are the same length all the way around. You are right this handy tool has been used by women and tailors for generations.

The best sewing teacher ever.

That one gal took absolutely every opportunity to hock her book.

Before watching the video. I know what a lot of those things are for because I took home ec classes starting in 7th grade in 1972. I have multiple hem gauges so I can have one on the ironing board, at my sewing machine, by my serger, and at least one on my cutting table. They are my #1 most used sewing tool. I use the point to turn collar points, to help me turn the seams, to measure hems and press them and the metal doesn't melt so that is helpful. I don't really know what some of the options are so I'm happy to watch the video to learn more. I'm glad I came across this. After watching the video I learned about the 5/8 seam allowance measurement, using it to make half inch pleats, and the compass option. Women typically have a cutting board on their cutting table to use with rotary cutters. We also have flannel boards for quilting. Pins stick in these items quite easily and stay put.

If i could afford, things are pretty tough these days due to taxes after taxes etc... 🇨🇦🙏🙏🙏

Thank you for sharing your strength

Cool stuff. Three plugs almost got me to click off midway thru

Didn't know this was such a mystery ... it's a seam gauge. Those of us that sew have always used them.

This is one of my favorite 'everyday' tools. I make sure I have at least 6, in case I can't find one.

A sewing guage. People, usually women, who know how to sew, especially from way back, know what they are and how to use them. I have 2 or 3 of them and use them fo a variety of things, not only sewing. I have even taken one with me when getting my hair trimmed to show the person how much I want cut off. Otherwise one person's inch may be another person's 3/4 inch, or 1 1/4 inch. All the little notches are for marking out button hole or other placements , etc. The little holes are for marking with a pencil, or using as a compass. One might not use all of its possible tricks, but some of them. It depends on what one is doing. The inventor/manufacturer has put several holes and notches in different places, which makes the guage adaptable. It is up to the user to decide which ones for which job.

Thank you! Enjoyed learning the second method for making collars. I was working on a tshirt yesterday and...oopsies collar was too big and loose. Had someone request a thinner collar like you see more in store bought shirts. Any tips for sewing a thinner collar?

Thank you for sharing. I'm hypermobile so have had a lot of joint injuries including separated shoulders and a spinal fracture, and deal with chronic pain, and one of the things people hear me say as I'm doing something a little differently to either work around a current injury or prevent future injury is "life is all about the workarounds". Gotta figure out how to do what you want to do with what you've got. Sometimes it takes a lot of extra work just to do things most people take for granted, and not everyone starts at the same starting line, so maybe it's not a race, but a journey we're all on together. I just discovered your channel, and will be sticking around. I follow a lot of female vintage and historical sewists but they rarely make the kind of clothing I'm comfortable in, I'd rather be in working class clothing, and generally pants or trousers. I tend to describe my personal aesthetic as somewhere between "carpet goblin" and "plaid my mother hates" or "f-off, it's comfortable" and my hip to waist ratio makes me fit better into menswear than women's, that bulkiness you found with the pleated pants is what I get any time I wear any women's pants, so it's going to be nice going through your footage for hints and tricks to fit a body that doesn't conform to current fashion standards. I have such trouble with waistbands that anything will help. (I have all of an inch of space between my bottom rib and the top of my hip so belts are not comfortable but I've increased the size of my waist via core exercises for the spinal injury enough that now my pants fall down, and the <ahem> padding around the middle that I've acquired over the years has not helped, I need like negative two inches of ease for a waistband to stay where it belongs if I want to put anything in the pockets, and I don't find suspenders comfortable around my bust. "Don't think, just do", yeah I hear that a lot in martial arts. And it just occurred to me now that it probably comes from people whose muscle memory is easy to program. Mine isn't. Peiple who learn easily don't understand that there's a big difference between needing to brain your way through till your body can do the thing versus being mentally caught up by minutia to the point where your body stops moving. I cannot watch someone do a thing I don't know how to do and then repeat the thing myself without them leading me stepwise through it while I'm trying to make my body move. I have had one instructor in the 23 years I've been doing Aikido who realized this and would instruct me accordingly, for all other instructors I have to watch them, try to note specifically what they did (or after a decade or two, categorize it as a movement that I already know and try to note if there are any differences) and then try to remember it long enough to drag my body though the motions enough times before we move on to the next thing to maybe be able to do it again if it comes up next class. It's something I try to keep in mind when I'm teaching Aikido now, I sometimes feel like the people who have the most trouble learning something make the best instructors and I try to live up to that. And I try to find accommodations for students whose bodies or minds don't work in the generally accepted ways. I've taken dance lessons too (ballroom, bellydance and ballet) and I have the same problem learning the moves. 49 and still have to think about left or right. Even learning to drive a car, it was about a year before I was solid in gas vs brake (my poor dad, who had to supervise me, had nerves of steel), and I'm really glad that I got the chance to learn how to manage a clutch pedal and shifter while not also contending with traffic (I worked a high school cooperative education placement where I got to do the day before pre-drive of vehicles being tested on a dynamometer). Some of us really need to break things down into much smaller steps than a lot of other people. I have been doing another particular kata-based sword art for over 20 years specifically because I am terrible at being choreographed and wish to improve. I guess it's worked, since when the instructor isn't there, I teach the class. I tell anyone that I'm trying to teach anything to that I'm not good, just persistent, and I've already made all the mistakes that they haven't yet made. My Aikido instructor always says to make "big glorious mistakes", and he's not wrong, I find most people learn a lot more from making a mistake and having to correct it and then avoid making it again than they do from getting it right the first time. I think the best thing I did for myself with respect to taking martial arts as an adult was to check my ego at the door and accept and embrace that I will look stupid while I'm learning. And I will always be learning, so I'm resigned to the possibility that I will look stupid at any point in time.

So true about room for artistry. My pattern drafting instructor was so frustrated when he was teaching us how to make personal shirt patterns but we couldn't get mine to work using his math, because I have a very short torso and very large chesticles. The artistry came into play when we had to work out how to make it more than a crop top on me. Haha

Ooooo ❤

not really from the sewing world. But looking from mechanical engineering perspective, it looks like a vernier scale with a hole for drawing circle and a central slot for drawing straight line. The vernier scale part allow you to measure 1/10 mm easier by using least count method. We used some what similar tool in machine shop a lot, and i see carpenter use similar tool to measure distance. Kind of funky to see the same core mathematical idea pop up multiple time in different industry and trade via different form factor.

Dude, all you had to do was ask someone older than you or interested in fiber crafts what it was, you didn't need to do research into old patents 😂

Definitely, the hat makes for a more comely tailor. Love your tips!

Pleats for skirts or shirts or drapery.

Honestly, your videos are so fun to watch! Also very informative😊

This is so helpful - thank you!!

The two anchor holes are for anchoring into a sewing dummy when measuring pleating adjustments for the sides of a garment. To ensure an even adjustment on each flank.

Im a seamstress...use it all the time.... 😊Its NOT A RULER PER SAY .... ITS FOR SEWING....

I use both, it depends on what I’m cutting. My rotary cutter gets used the more. My snippers at my machine probably get the most use.

My Mom made most of our clothes back in her post-divorce-pre-good-jobmpoverty days. She used one of these all the time and taught me to use many of the features. This was back in the early 1970s, I am 60 now and still own/use one of these. Thanks, Mom…

In school we only had bernina machines from the 80s, so no serger and I learned to sew stretch/serge with a zigzag stitch. Its probably less stable but it works quite well

Nefty little gadget. Thank you for explaining it to us.

My old Kenmore 158 is a workhorse. Built in the 60s and all iron. I love the workmanship put into it. Thanks for this video, I am going to give her a nice tuneup. 😊

Great information. The point was new to me.

Awesome. I learned so.ething new about you!

You don’t use needles in the little hole you can use a small safety pins maybe!!

This is such a lovely, vulnerable conversation with the camera, thank you for sharing. It’s incredibly strong of you. Your sewing videos are very inspiring, so it follows the man making them is too

I really enjoyed your process of testing. TBH I had dismissed selvedge jeans as a marketing gimmic, and could not understand what was so important to have the selvedge finish when it is concealed anyway?