Once again you have made a tutorial that is excellent and easy to understand. Thanx a million 🩳🏆

Aside from being an amazing tip, this felt satisfying like an ASMR

Hi Cornelius, this was a great video! I know how to iron my shirt's better now!😅

Hi there Cornelius, thanks for this video! Does the inseam line of the pants have to make that slight curve inward starting from the crotch or can it also be straight? i'm making baggy denim shorts and I kinda think a straight line fits better in this case, will it cause any wearability issue?

Sorry to burst your bubble, however this is not the "proper" way to do it but rather subjective. Water spray is unnecessary with steam action. Turns out, you're ironing the wrong side of your collar! You only need to iron/steam the other side. I personally prefer steaming vs ironing and have found it to be even more adequate. The steamer can easily tackle wrinkles that are extremely difficult and sometimes impossible to get with an iron. It can also eliminate pleats unlike an iron. Steaming does not introduce wrinkles the way that ironing does either. It additionally gives the shirt a much more relaxed look and feel.

Thanks for gelling together things I've mostly sorted out msyelf, one thing a lot of the sewists I watch don't cover in anything about fitting is how to actually move or change the arm hole. I'll be sneaking off to adjust my princess seam bodice block armscyes next time I make a supportive garment, I need the shoulders a bit more to the front/narrower and now I have a better idea how to actually do that. I've also discovered a Secret Weapon against shirts being a bit too tight across the chest if they're fine down the ribcage: I add a small square armpit gusset. In my case it's usually caused by my bust, but also shoulder muscles can do it too if that's how you're built.

I'm surprised you don't know this, but...please, PLEASE don't turn the handwheel backwards, like in this video. Only forwards toward you. Otherwise, you'll throw out the timing in the machine.

I HAD to subscribe!

Seams need to be trimmed closer to stitching before turning. The holes are indeed used to pivot also as a measure to mark when pattern making.

pattern drafting is just all about ease distribution, especially when converting a pattern into a selvedge pattern. A couple months ago I had to transform a pattern into a selvedge one and was stressing so much about it due to the curves, until randomly I just thought why don't I move the curves around the way you did in this video. It was like a light switched in my mind

I have barely watched the tutorial yet, but I am in love with your personality! I hit follow to make sure I can find your tutorials (but primarily your energy!) again.

Great video! One thing though - to do a proper lap seam (one panel overlaps the other and they're sewn together at the seam allowance with no folds.. although people also call a half-felled seam a lap seam), factories use a flatlocking machine rather than a coverstitch. This creates a stitch that looks like the underside of a coverstitch on both sides, usually with three needles, and it's very stretchy and handy for thick knits, but also athleisure wear. The coverstitch is used for topstitching shoulder seams, collars, hems, etc, but is not strong enough to hold a lap seam (since the raw edge of the fabric is within the seam width). I haven't tried the "flatlocking" technique on domestic overlock sergers too but I've heard that it also isn't very strong. Unfortunately I can't find any flatlock machines that aren't big expensive industrial units. Maybe you could get something strong enough with a wide zigzag lock stitch plus three lines of chain stitching or plus a coverstitch plus a chain stitch. Or plus three lines of lockstitching if it can stretch enough or doesn't need to stretch like shoulder seams. But it'll be hard to make it look even because it's all so close together and the seam bulk will squirm under your presser foot. By the way, if you do a straight lock stitch on knit fabrics, you can make it stretch more by loosening the tension as much is practical.. plus play with stitch length, shorter may be better depending on where you can set the tension.

Incredibly helpful - thank you,

What measurments do u use for the quadrat

On the diagram 1/2 inch seam guide the square = the area between 2 squares is where the fabric is gathered between those two marks. The triangle = is for location where front to back are pined together to join them when sewing. The circle is for marking where the points of darts end. All these were for marking on drafted patterns They are the same markings found printed on purchased patterns The top opening above the square is when buttons are sewn onto clothing this tool gave room for the thread to be run around the button stitching to give it space and strength before pushing the needle to knot it off. Also that side from top to bottom should be 1 inch. These seam guides are no longer being made and harder to find. every time I see one I buy it.

So it's in the drape of the fabric then?? In other words, if these items were made with fabric that were thick and stiff, it would have worked out differently??

I just found you, cool! Grammy in Utah

My mother had a padded fabric covered board on her cutting table. She would then use a "Foldable cardboard Cutting Surface" on top of the padding when she needed a harder surface. Using the sewing gauge with straight pins worked very well for her.

Please make me video in hindi

I am trying to learn how to make my own clothing, well a woman's dress 😂 but I find your vid to be the easiest tutorial that makes sense for absolute beginners. Thank you so much for the video

Its not a ruler,its a seem guide for sewing

My granddaughter graduated high school and her mom had to show her how to address envelopes to pay her bills by mail. I make a point of writing my grandchildren letters by snail mail, although I am having to print them.

I have an 80's Singer that's been banished to the Shelf of Shame cause it likes to spit the thread out of its tensioner and make terrycloth loops on the bottom... it made me hate sewing for years... I have a 1970's Kenmore (I'm only a little older than it) that had solidified lubricant in it, I got it professionally cleaned so I now have straight and zigzag stitches but something's still pretty borked for a lot of the other stitches (the technician said they could put more hours into it and maybe get more of the nifty stitches back, maybe not) and after I broke a needle, it refuses to do anything thick without snapping the thread so that needs to be looked at again... I have a 1960's Universal machine that should be wonderful but somehow has become misaligned after I tried to sew something it didn't approve of, so it doesn't catch the bobin thread and misses stitches a lot. That one's probably the better candidate, though its motor is old and well-used and may not tolerate a whole lot of long seams, but I'm ok with that, I sew pretty slowly with a lot of breaks... so thank you for the hints about timing, and I'm going to go watch your other video on sewing machines in the hopes that I can get the Kenmore or the Universal behaving in time to try to make swimsuits for end of July... hopefully I can avoid having to haul out the Singer from Heck. I also have a treadle machine in the basement from the 19-teens that I haven't gotten a band for yet but I'm going to get it working when I get my sewing room set up... My main machine right now? A 1914 Jones Family hand crank machine. I adore it. It's just my speed, though I do get a sore hand from one-hading the fabric if I'm doing anything intricate or a lot of sewing... And I also very much enjoy hand sewing. Then there's nobody to blame but me. Picking up hand-sewing again during lockdowns made me enjoy the process of sewing, where constant battle with the Singer from Heck was making me hate the process even if I liked the prodct... now with a machine that doesn't fight me every step of the way, I'm enjoying machine sewing almost as much.

Can a zipper be added to this pocket?

My mother kept one in her sewing machine drawer. I remember playing with it when I was a little kid.

Thanks 😊

Thanks for this ❤

I usually use the walking zigzag stitch rather than the regular one because it tends to bunch up the fabric edge. My sewing machine instructions refer to the stitch your using here, the blind hem stitch. It never occurred to me to use it like a hand sewn blanket stitch to finish seams. Thank you very much for this very useful tip.

For the compass part. What if you put the pin in the tiny hole on the blue part and your pencil through the bigger hole in the end? 🤔

2:12 “back in the 60’s and SEW ON” no pun intended. I have never used one of these. I put a mark on my finger to use as a little guide. This gadget looks more efficient

I've tried sewing garments before and have always found the process so stressful and exhausting, your gentle approach and calming music (along with the detailed information about why the pieces are shaped as they are, fit fixes and pattern adjustments) are really helping me have less anxiety and get back into sewing! Thank you!

Have used this ruler all my life to sew with. Can’t sew without it.

One of the best tools I own. It stays true to your measurements without having to constantly re measure. The perfect tool for seams and hemming, It wonderful.

F'n real, brother. Candid and beautiful take on life. Inspiring. Thanks for sharing your story.

You can tell the difference betweenwarpandweft because the weft goes from weft to right.

I can't be without one of these. I'm 70 and have to hem my new pants all the time, I'm only 5'. Now, we downsized about 7 years ago and it took me forever to unpack every box we brought with us, (oh yes, I wish I had gotten rid of more stuff, but thought I already did!!) In the mean time I'm needing to sew thing and ended up buying new sewing supplies, sticker shock there. Yikes. Anyway, I wish I'd known all the useful tricks this baby had up its sleeve years ago. And I wish my new one had those nifty slots at every inch. Great presentation.

Bless You

I love my cover stitch machine

That's the exact ruler Marines use to make sure their ribbons are on correctly.

It's a sewing ruler to help with hemming. You set the blue gauge to the length of the hem, then you line the edge of the ruler up with your hem. Fold the fabric up and pin in place. Slide the ruler down and repeat process.

does it save material to do it that way?

All you had to do was ask a woman who sews … maybe your mom???

Glad to see a curved waistband here, I don't think I've had men's pants with that before but I discovered a while ago that those stay up over my lack of hips with no room between rib and hip better than a straight one when I'm making skirts! I had some stretching issues with mine where it's on the bias so what I did was make sure my two layers were rotated from each other so that anywhere one's on the bias, the other's not. Kinda works! Would probably work even better if I could find my interfacing. Next challenge (I try to have no more than one new challenge per project), a fly! I'm barely adequate at skirt plackets and I've practiced welt pockets on some of my wearable mockups. And I'll be coming back to watch this again next skirt placket, that's a lovely crisp corner on the waistband!

0.75 is literally the perfect amount for stretch fabric. Amazing, saved me a lot of trial and error

I don't sew, but maybe you pin the blue the very end, make your 1" marks, then slide to the very end and mark? Idk. Never mind I just read your update before I posted this.

You don’t need layers of fabric to use the pins - just a cardboard cutting board.

Very interesting 😀

I wish, peace, joy, love, healing. God bless you, Sir.

anwsered all my questions

Not something I thought that I was going to learn today, but it came up in my YT feed and I thought, sure I'll check it out. Interesting stuff and would have been useful when I took a Home Ec class in middle school during the late 1980s.