Hello mate, this was a couple of hundred quid on eBay, from Australian, but you can get them straight from Ignitech I believe based in the Czech Republic. If you go the the Motofaction website, link in the description this is also a massive source of help.

It’s always worth periodically checking across the battery to see if you have too much woltage being pumped in, or not enough, gives you a heads up on the regulator part at least, very hard to test a regrec, they just go bad, but time kills them. Worth changing if they’re old, even if the bike is working, saves getting caught out.

@@memybikeni9931 Yes that what I've found out that changing the regrec regularly on all VFR's is must even if the mechanic says it's been tested. I've learned even the last VFR 2014 800's & 1200's you need to keep an eye on them. I had a 1993 VFR 750. Battery died on me and need to get a tow truck.

@@barrythatcher9349 well a ‘93 piece of electronic equipment, probably had its day some time ago, I think 10 years is a good time to change it out at most. Although I don’t practice what I preach, I have an ‘01 Fazer 600 and haven’t tested my charging system on it yet. this particular stator is off the VF750F I’m rebuilding, while I’m waiting for parts to rebuild it. I have so much to get on with, it’s never ending 🤦‍♂

@@memybikeni9931I had the 1993 just on 12 years ago but defiantly should have tested it even then. 2001 Fazer, after my experience, I'd be testing it. especially if you know it's not been changed. Love VF750F videos. Keep up the good work.

Wow that’s a lot of money for a reg rec diagnosis and replacement. Definitely worth building up some knowledge to save a few quid in future. Glad this was of some use. Electricity can be mystifying for sure, but it’s fairly simple to understand bike circuits when you get into it. Thanks for the comment. Rich.

Thank you very much appreciated, let’s see how it holds up. Still got to get her put together and running well 😂

Thank you so much, and I’m looking forward to getting it all back together. Just need to find all the gaskets and seals etc.

Definitely would be better to vapour blasts, but I don’t have he equipment or money to get it done, just getting by. This should be ok, the original paintwork was criminal, this at least will do. I have the whole bike to rebuild so welcome to the series and hope you enjoy the rest of it. Thanks for the comment 😊

Perfect 😊

They are all different aren’t they,

Yes these were a little stuck.They were locktited in, even when I had a good hold on them, they were extremely tight.

1981

Thanks, yes it works well, I’ve fixed it in place, so have a lot more control over it, and it is a very precise tool. It’s one of those gadgets that needs regular use to prevent me from falling back into old habits and hitting the grinding wheel instead.

Thanks mate! I should have watched till the end before commenting 😂 I see you corrected it at the end. Thanks for the feedback 🙏

@@memybikeni9931P.S. the bottom (vertical) slot u were unsure of is for sharpening scissors ✂️ 👍

@@Andre-lw2zo ah that makes sense, I didn’t realise. I’ll give that a try then 👍

Yeah sounds like they are probably shorting out somewhere. Cheap enough to replace, so I’d replace both.

Yeah you’re probably right there mate, it’s just concern old rings meet old barrels, not matched up, but should be ok. I’ll gap them before putting them in see how they look. I do about 6 or 7,000 miles a year usually so the engine does need a good helping hand. But if I get any issues, I can remove it again and sort it so never going to be a massive problem. Thanks for the help.

Yeah some I review are 67mm, these are 70mm, but hopefully I’ll find someone with a bit of knowledge to assist. I guess it’s also the differences in ring types, gaps, scraper rings, edges etc that also has to be factored in.

You’re welcome, hope it helped.

@@memybikeni9931 yes thanks allot ,today I but a honda 650 deaville and I really need to know the thinks you talking about thanks man!!

@@enrico48353 servicing is quite simple on this bike, front cylinder spark plug on the left can be difficult to access, but doable without taking too much apart

Depends on where you live I guess, I use 5W30 and tbh oil is oil, I’d probably ask your local

That’s a good idea, the main issue is of course stainless steel when it meets aluminium. But this was iron oxide over 40 years I guess. Thanks for the tip, I will very likely give that a try.

She is, and I’m looking forward to getting back to the mechanics of it, the next video will be painting etc. I’m going to be doing some racing colours on the side cases use as accents, and can’t make my mind up on bare alluminium or silver paint for the clutch, stator cover and rockers.

Thanks, had work but getting there.

Yeah thread locker is a great tool in itself, never gets fully utilised.

I think it’s one of those things a lot of people aren’t aware of, as it fails at about 200°c, it’s a good engineering tool in itself.

You’re welcome, good luck

Well, in a sense yes, due to the position of the calliper, water wells up, but the bike is 23 years old, I have no idea how long the calliper has been on there without an overhaul, so it’s to be expected really. Good luck with the rebuild, I’d be interested to hear what method you use to remove the stuck pistons.

@@memybikeni9931 My 02 FZS 600 has such a dirty caliper on the rear, despite most of the bike being fine. Definitely a design flaw, I'm treating it to some nice Brembo (red set) rear pads and Brembo long life front pads (white set) which I think should work out well with the K&N Air filter to compliment the K&N Oil filter I already installed. Coming together nicely with the aftermarket short levers and LED front & rear arrow indicators Always awesome to see people rebuilding components instead of buying new. I wish I didn't need new front brake discs but one of them has a warp so rip, there goes £320 or so 😂

@@GaijinGamerGirl yeah expensive hobby. Can you worse aftermarket discs for a little less ?

@@memybikeni9931 Not a hobby unless you only do track racing. And worse? What is worse?

@@GaijinGamerGirl yes I was using Hobby in it’s broader sense, and as for ‘Worse’ I was trying to type ‘Source’ but my typing skills suck.

What sort of noise is it and can you be sure it’s coming from the heads ?

I ended up leaving the rear cylinder head sprocket half a tooth before the center dot and the front cylinder head sprocket half a tooth over the center dot and she's running like a sun now! Thanks a lot Rich! Really fun "working together"! And thank you for your quick replies!

Just a couple of hours, allow a little more if you’re doing it for the first time.

It’s an Hitachi carb, so neither. And I’m not sure what the jet sizes were, I bought it and threw it on, without fettling. Given the lack or air box, straight through pipes and the fact it was serving front and rear cylinders with different fuelling needs, it it quite hard to manage with jetting.

Good luck with it, can’t wait to start getting this one back together,

Yeah everything except the crank cases are all stripped and cleaned, including the cylinder heads which I have just done some valve work on. I’m about to upload that video in a bit. The crank cases need to have a bit of a clean up, and there’s a little corrosion that needs removing, but essentially everything is ready to mask up and paint. I’m going to leave the side covers bare aluminium I think with some Honda Racing colour stripes, on the Finns of the heads and detail on the covers. May work, maybe not, I’ll give it a try. Main thing is getting the engine back together and working properly, that’s the challenge, the carbs are a faff on this bike, and I’m not good with carbs.

No idea sorry.

Coming from a channel with no content, and 1 subscriber 😂

Yes i think it was and I’m not joking, it stank like wood gloss. I have completely stripped the rocker covers, side cases and heads of paint, and I’m am replacing the crank cases, which I need to tidy up, and then it will all get repainted in VHT Black, with the side cases left aluminium with some Honda Racing colours thrown in. Just finishing the clean up, and waiting on parts for the re assembly. Hoping it looks nice, and the main thing, hoping the rebuild fixes the main problem being it had low compression in number 2 cylinder, water in the crank case, and white smoke. Once I’m happy it’s all fine the body work will need attention, not to mention the forks and brakes. Big job…

@@memybikeni9931 keep up the good work and I hope you can get the compression issue in the number 2 cylinder fixed. That is going to be the hurdle.

@@barrythatcher9349 the head gasket looked in very bad shape, it wasn’t able to be removed in one piece so probably where the issue lay. Water in the crank case and compression issue, almost certainly the head gasket. It wasn’t extremely low, but relative compression was 20psi difference, and fluids in the crank case says it all.

Thanks, yes I’m not sure why the purpose built tool is complicated as it is, assuming I’m using it correctly. The rest of the studs were taking it with the engin in the bike when removing the exhausts. Then it was welding on nuts to remove stuck studs as they were so bent the flange of the exhaust downpipes wouldn’t slip off.

Yeah I agree, the trouble is thee old girls fight you all the way, and the smart stuff goes out the window and heat and hammers take over.

@memybikeni9931 Sometimes, you just need a little persuasion.

@@barrythatcher9349 Yes that’s all it is. Last video I did was removing a tricky sheered off bolt from the lower crank case. This was a lot gentler, and smarter. Very effective. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qN6GlL2Esre7ppc.html

Thank you, I do try and pick something to suit each time, not always possible.

@@memybikeni9931 you do a good job both with the music and your motorcycle work.

@@barrythatcher9349 thank you, appreciate your comment. Settled into putting music over the videos as some of the footage can be sped up, silenced and the music takes over, so good footage doesn’t get lost. Works well I think.

Yeah this engine has been fighting me all the way, but it’s getting there. 😊

Standard stuff, if you’ve never seen it done before.

Interesting isn’t it, you worry about a 2 quid screwdriver getting damaged, when it can easily go in the bin or be re sharpened, hardened and tempered back, or be replaced with a 100 other screw drivers laying around the workshop. You can use what ever your OCD demands, I’ll just use a pointy sharp thing that fits. Engine saved, a small price paid or not as it didn’t sustain any damage. Good luck with your projects if you have any on the go, I’m always keen to learn what others are doing. 😊

It is that easy dude, just give it a try 😂

Yes mate as some of the case bolts are inaccessible without he heads off. I’m in the process of cleaning up all the cases, and hopefully soon will get the rebuild under way.

@@memybikeni9931 Awe dang it, thanks for letting me know! I'll mentally prepare myself for the journey ahead. 🔧 Haha

@@arctic_otter it’s pretty straight forward, jus don’t force anything.

Yes, I have a series of videos replacing the chain and sprockets here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b8yZirqHtNXWoaM.html

Thank you. This part of the process is very hard work and quite laborious but it’s worth it.

Thanks mate and good luck with your rebuild

What ?

What on earth are you talking about ? Diaphragm is torn, doesn’t need testing, needs replacing. What makes you think I don’t know how to test ? “”Not a pro” correct, welcome pro KZfaq. “Is he using JIS screwdrivers” no, I’m using screwdrivers that fit old screws and for diaphragm replacements, I’m not using any. Not sure what video you’ve been watching 😂

@@memybikeni9931 well, ex-CUSE-me !

@@jerryeinstandig7996 You’re excused. Bye.

Never a truer word spoken 😊

If you haven’t actually removed the engine yet, before doing anything else, do a compression test, so you can see which block is the issue, which will save a lot of initial disassembly. A basic leak down test to see where power is being lost. If compression is going out into the crank case, then likely broken or worn rings. Valve seats won’t be an issue, issues with them will just lose compression, not cause oil to get in anywhere, if you mean valve stem seals, that generally only produces a little blue smoke on start up, it wouldn’t cause oil loss though the exhaust. That is likely getting into the cylinders through the head gasket, broken or worn rings or a crack somewhere in the block. So do a compression test, identify where the issue is, take the head off, inspect the head gasket, which is a 3 ply metal gasket, and at the point if all is ok, then you will need to go lower into the engine. With then engine out, and heads off, put each cylinder into bottom dead centre, and pour petrol in, see how quickly it disappears into the crank case. If one is rapid and one is slow, it’s rings. It could just be the head gasket, or maybe a hole in the piston crown possibly, but you can check that with a quick look down the plug hole. Let me know how you get on.

Thank you for your quick reply! I'll get a compression test set first and go from there. Since there is oil on both spark plugs I have a strong feeling I'll be working on both heads. I'll keep some updates on the progress and your videos will provide most of the information needed. I'm really thankful for the information you provide!

@@dylantendoornkaat6155 probably just worn rings. Question though, if you haven’t compression tested it yet, what makes you think power is down ? Sluggish ? That could be air/fuel, carbs needing a service. Worn rings on both sides not a major drama if your using the bike regularly, it’ll burn off more than it leaves sitting in the cylinder.

Well, when I started her up cold she was spitting oil and I lost power whilst it was riding perfect before so I think it's the valve stem seals on both cylinders. Since both spark plugs were full of oil I just decided to take the engine apart and check both the seals and rings. Now I didn't find any problems on the pistons, tested with some gasoline and it all stays on top without bubbling. Waiting for the tool to remove the valves and the gasket set meanwhile I'll be cleaning all the old gaskets off(what a hell of a job) and then we're back on track! Your videos are really helpful!🤘🏻

@@dylantendoornkaat6155 could be stem seals, just a bit severe to be spitting oil. What happens in first start up, as oil runs down the stems, it gets burnt off on start up, but then disappears. If oil burning continues, it isn’t usually seals. Maybe check the head for runout, may be warped.

It off a 1992 Yamaha Virago XV535

Good luck bud 👍

Well the translation didn’t really make sense, but thank you anyway.

Yeah I don’t know why I didn’t, but in reality it makes little difference, the engine is level, it wouldn’t make a lot of difference, but best practice and all that.

So I don’t know of any study that shows the direction of the clip makes a difference, but it’ll be coming off anyway, so no matter. When I bought the VF750 I didn’t know the extent of the issues. Bought it as a runner, it wasn’t, replaced the starter got it running, then discovered low compression and coolant in the crank case, but I’m getting there. Just cleaning up the cases at present then assessing what I need.