the soffit vents have screens or wherever the air vent that supplies the baffles with air should have a screen small enough that not very many bugs can get through

Not sure if you're being sarcastic or not, but a staple on the underside of the roof decking is an absolute non-issue.

Same here

I found better balls on line. Cardboard and I would NEVER staple up into the roof deck. Staple them to the rafters.

Amazon, Lowes, most have these.

Home Depot or loses sells them .

Lowes

one of the best jokes ive ever herd. im dying rn.

Lay them as you would tar paper on a roof. Start at the peak and as you go down overlap a few inches every time with the next piece below. Basically any moisture on top should drip on to the piece just below it every time to keep the insulation underneath dry all the way down.

You should do every one ,you should also have vented soffits and a ridge vent or gable vents

Same...1970s home....2x4 roof trusses....insulation doesn't even extend past the 2x4. Hoping to make this place warmer for the upcoming Midwest winter. Good luck!

Cellulose works better anyway

@@kcmaldonado3948 Agree.

Fun at parties, this one

andrew beaudry Ideally, every bay. Typically every other Bay. I believe standards are 32" long baffles, but I could be wrong. You can never have too much air ventilation. The purpose of this is to keep your plywood and shingles the same temperature as the outside to prevent damage as well as reduce moisture levels to avoid rot and molding. The insulation keeps unwanted climate separated from the living space.

xOwlz You don't need a baffle where thete are no vents. not all soffit have a continuous vent. Look out side and see where vents are, or in dark attic look for light coming in, put a baffle there, if not enough light cut more vents in soffit. Every attic is different and requires different amounts of ventilation. I found the formula on line. Depends on sq footage etc. Also the amount of roof vents and placement is very important, the vents high and low need to work together for ideal circulation

@@epiphany4074 It is near impossible to get the attic and roof sheathing temperature the same as the ambient outdoor air temperature, due to the radiant heat from the sun. You would need three or four 1500 cfm power ventilators to come close to achieving that goal, at that point you'd be using enough electricity to run a central a.c. unit. Proper depth and type of insulation will do more than any amount of ventilation.

Don't start these stupid puns and scrap.

Lou Libretti Hmmmmm You’re baffled🤔🤔 Is you house baffled too?🤪🤪🤪

I enjoy puns. I liked it

Justin Jarosz That's a stupid question

Not really. It depends on the application. For blown in insulation, it doesn't HAVE to be running to ridge vent. If you are insulting the roof, you needed to have those channels for air to travel through to segregate roof v temperature from the insulated area.

xOwlz You are wrong. The baffles are thete to stop restrictions of air flow, when insukation is blown in. air needs to circulate from soffits to roof vents.

The baffles allow air to move into the attic, collecting heat and moisture which can exit out the ridge vent, if available. Therefore, the baffle would only need to be safely beyond the insulation - he said 24 inches - and not extended to the ridge vent.

@@andrewbeaudry4399 No need to be mean here. The only really stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked. The only questions I have ever regretted were the ones I did NOT ask.

Rafter to rafter makes more sense for larger air flow, and easier to staple to. But you can see at 1:11 the type of truss used in that case would make it more challenging.

Jonathan Tarro Look for light to see where vents are, put a baffle where vents are. If you don't see light the vents might be buried, or maybe you don't have any measure attic to find sq footage, figure out how many you need. Go outside to your soffit and cut out the number of vents u need. Cover hole with vent screen, then go back in to attic and add baffles to the vents you cut. Make sure they are low enough to blown insulation doesn't cover hole. Most average houses have 6 per side. There is a formula that says how many you need based on area, but I don't remember what it is. Also male sure you have enough vents in roof, and they are at right hight and spaced apart correctly kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rLmYnZSdlbbSdmQ.html

Wide rafters are 24" inch centers, narrow are 16" centers. He used narrower size (used in 16 centers) instead of wider size (not shown) baffles (for 24s). Unfortunately, as is, any blown-in insulation can now go down on either side of the narrower baffle and block the soffit slits necessary for air entry. Should have bought the wider size baffle that fits rafter-to-rafter, preventing any blown-in insulation from clogging the soffit entry slits. Costs a few cents more...