How did the injectors do?

I was given my nephew's old china four wheeler and the safety tether was acting up and not starting. Started messing with it to fix, only to find battery is dead and won't charge. Before I put another $100 battery and spend who knows how long fixing it, would be nice to worry about new battery after everything else is worked out. So yeah this is how this is useful. I doubt someone with a 2024 1000RR is looking for a battery hack. Think on a more broad spectrum before thinking you have all the answers punk...lol I'm JP on that but yeah

@@aaronmenchingerexactly. I have a 2015 Yamaha grizzly 550 that needs new battery. Every year it needs one as we always forget to go up to the farm and remove the batteries from all the machines. Sometimes driving 1-1/2hrs just for a $100-$150 battery does not make sense …. I don’t wanna put a new battery in again as we don’t drive it much and I haven’t been up here much, but we got 2 ATVs just sitting around that haven’t been used😂 this video is GREAT!! I’m doing this if I can get just the summer out of the battery with $20 in supplies , I’ll be very happy!!!! The original comment is stupid, some people have money and possessions because they save anywhere possible…. For example me who’s gonna attempt this battery hack. Most ppl can’t afford to have 2 Yamaha atvs just sitting around 😅 I don’t want to sell the machines so if I can save money it’s better than blowing more

Check my channel! I have a video up just about that! Thanks for watching!

Yota shop has them 👍

An extension won’t get to it?

The heat shields in the way and I can't tell what size nuts they are they got to heat shield turned around the other way

I guess they come from the factory like that cuz I ain't never had it changed I might just have to take to Muffler off

And I can't get to it for another way because the frames in the way

They’re either a 12mm or a 14mm. And it may be easiest to take the whole muffler off

Awesome! How bad is the head gasket job on these?

@@TheShopBros it's bad I was hoping I was going to be able to pull the heads without pulling the cams but you have to pull the cams and everything around it can't get to the head bolts they are under the cams also I tried Blue devil head gasket sealer and followed all the directions to a t I got the $80 bottle the big one after that failed I tried the cheap head gasket bars leak stuff they called 12$ bottle also followed it to a team neither one of them worked so moved on to doing head gasket job the camshaft pulleys are extremely tight need to have a special tool made or some good idea to hold them in place

@@TheShopBros having the EGR delete might make things a little bit easier though just for the headache of all the vacuum

Dang man, I saw a kit online that had some sort of upgraded head gasket and head studs instead of the bolts and I was wanting to do that just for peace of mind lol. I’ve also read that installing headers can help with the head gasket issues

@@TheShopBros yes I would definitely go the stud route doesn't matter what going to have to do it a couple more times anyways might as well have studs you can reuse over and over again compared to the TTY same route I'm going to go is studs turns out this job has to be done pretty much every hundred thousand miles

“So you don’t have to boil it”? … Oh my … No, .. no … it’s because distilled water is much purer than tap water which always contains various minerals, quite often calcium carbonate (lime); but also iron oxide, and all kinds of other minerals that , when combined with sulfuric acid (“battery acid”) can greatly degrade the electrolytic properties present when reacting with the lead plates, all necessary for a battery to work. Calcium carbonate is very alkaline and will react with the sulfuric acid and completely change the pH level inside the battery. Boiling the water is to kill the biologicals … bacteria, germs, cysts, preons, microbes, viruses, spores, parasite ovae (eggs)… you know.. sterilize it … not to remove dissolved minerals… in fact, what boils off IS pure water, in the form of water vapor (steam) and is what must be condensed and collected by distillation, so you’re just further concentrating whatever was dissolved in the tap water. So don’t boil it. You need to learn some basic physical chemistry before you go giving advice on the subject. They used to teach that in high school, but I guess they had to quit so they could teach you racial sensitivity and what gender-specific pronouns to avoid.

I believe you do have to keep the MAF. I’m sure there’s some way to delete it but I don’t know how. But I do know they make adapters for the MAF and cold air intake

I just got the 250cc. They recommended those for my year model

I ordered mine from Amazon. It should be the first one that pops up when you search it.

Ok what did you put in

I typed in “2002 Toyota Tundra hood shield” and it was the first one that popped up. It should also fit on yours

i got it thanks

Yes that is correct. Mine was super brittle when I pulled the intake off it snapped

@@TheShopBros the correct name is tvv valve? Not able to find it online.

The full name is temperature vacuum valve

@@TheShopBros Planning on doing the same mod on my 89 3.0. My question is, after an EGR delete is there still a need to keep the mass air flow sensor on the intake? I want to replace with a K&N cold air intake but don’t know if I need to keep the mass air flow sensor after I do an EGR delete

@@TheShopBros that valve was already broke on mine. Is it critical to how the truck runs? That little suckered is not cheap lol. Iv done had this plenum off like 5 times chasing a fuel leak that just kept happening. Kept using used fuel dampers hoping they were good only to find the fuel spraying out still . Had to just go buy a Toyota one

Thanks for watching! I’m glad you liked them!