awesome! glad you liked it. More soon! The best batteries for 65mm quads like this are 300mah folded cell packs, brands include Tiny Whoop, Tattu, Quad Gas, Webleedfpv, they all are the same pretty much.

The RENY screws I use are found here: solidspot.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22160 As for visual distortions, Im not sure what you mean, but if it has to do with flight performance I released a video a few days ago aboutt it

LETS GO! dm me a pic when you get it done

Thanks for hosting bro!

Thank you!

Thanks! Here is the Setup: BETAFPV 5A 1S Cross FC ELRS BETAFPV Meteor65 Air Frame VCI HOBBY 29,000kv Motors OVX300 VTX with Linear Antenna Tiny Whoop Pinch Camera HQProp Prototype 31mm Props

@@LeshaRodin Nice! good tip. I find that after i repair a frame it will still break, sometimes right next to the old break that is glued. I use the meteor65 air which may be slightly more fragile. Thanks for Watching!

@@Dmytro_99 Nice! great tip 👍

@@brandon9689 Me too! this FC flies great! Thanks for watching.

@@WIL_FPV it’s an awesome little quad! inexpensive too!

Oh yeah! forgot about this. I used to try to melt my frames together at races with varying degrees of success lol. the solder wick probably helps. Thanks for the tip!

@@TinyWhoop 🙏🙏

@@Sugar_K yeah, i guess that’s what I mean lol. It feels like the quad is poorly tuned because the frame is all over the place. but you’re right, the tune hasn’t changed, the frame changed. Thanks for watching as always and your insightful comments!

Thanks Tweech!

great news

Actually just read something about this on FB, but thanks for bringing it up, I will definitely have to get some to try! Thanks for watching!

Good point! thanks for that Info.

🫡 my new karate whoop tune is a good place to start as well. The 20k dynamic idle is a real winner keeping the motors wound up so your not having to go from 3k-15k before she starts to respond

Yeah, I've been hearing that too. Its sad but it is what it is. I guess the point I wanted to get across in this video is that although you cant race it (yet) its still a really nice FC and flies well. I sure am enjoying it just for flying around and having fun.

Just been on that grind getting information out to my viewers

Thanks for your support!

Hi there! I can help you out. If you are looking at the bottom of the FC with the back of the FC at the bottom, from Left to Right the Pins are GND, D-, D+, 5V so in this case the 5v side of the connector would be closest to the battery lead solder pads on the right. Hope that makes sense!

Thank you! It was a great help! I measured it with a multimeter and it is correct. I hope that info helped for many people who want make the usb adaptator

Yeah! no problem. It sure is disappointing that it doesn’t come with an adapter, I mentioned it to my BETAFPV rep i work with. Thanks for watching

Thank you! Racing is something that takes practice but I really enjoy it!

@CustomFPV I have raced 5" I mostly fly freestyle for my sponsors but I wanna get into the micros when I get the money together

@@TryAgainFPV the good thing is that they are much more inexpensive than 5", thats for sure!

Thanks man, I hope I'm not rambling too much, definitely can be hard to focus on flying smooth and talking but I enjoy doing it! Glad to hear it is informative.

I agree! definitely will make a seperate video on it. Mentality has been the one thing that has held me back in the past and learning to control it and use a mindset shift to your advantage in practice has been critical to me recently when trying to get faster and more consistent. It can be difficult because we hold high expectations of performance for ourselves and when we don't meet them it's easy to get frustrated. But there really should be no place for frustration in the hobby, something we are putting our hard earned money and time into and ultimately need to simply have fun doing. Skill progression isn't linear unfortunately, so it can be challenging when you see pilots of similar skill to you suddenly start pulling ahead when you are putting time in and not seeing those results you are looking for. Super deep topic indeed, and I wanted to just dive into it in this comment but I think thats better served for its own video. I appreciate the comment! Thanks for watching.

Hell yeah bro!

Crossfire is way better!

@@Rckid28 i know but the elrs micro rx seems the best option for whoops and ELRS has way more bnf options for micros. Not many are putting crsf in them.

As a former crossfire fanboy myself, in my opinion ELRS has killed crossfire. Obviously if it works for you, and you like it, use it. It treated me well for years so I can’t knock it. But at this time i’m flying 100% ELRS and loving it. The hardware is super inexpensive and the performance has been near flawless for me. You can set the packet rate all the way up to 1000hz and get an amazing responsive feel that CRSF can’t replicate. That + the integration of the backpack technology and VTX administrator, + the wide variety of BNF quads using ELRS, it’s a no brainer for most people. But everyone is entitled to their own opinions!

Awesome man! I love whoops, you are going to have a great time. I would highly recommend a Radiomaster radio of some kind with internal ELRS, mine has been great for years. Happy flying!

@@CustomFPV for some reason 2.4g will only slow me to go 200ft… crossfire allows me to go anywhere on my 200acre property’s

Thanks for the kind words, more to come!

Thank you! just trying to pass along the tips and methods I have learned throughout my time in FPV. Appreciate the support!

Thanks man 🤜🤛

That was the goal!

Thanks for this comment! good tip, that would definitely help further. Thank you for watching!

In my experience I haven't really come across that issue with BetaFPV boards in the past, so I don't really think that is why. This is much more inconvenient for the user, but it's common practice to replace with this connector when building ultra-light. on this new ultralight FC, I believe that is why they added it. I see many more failure points with this connector than with a micro USB. thanks for watching!

Happy to help! 1. I’ve found that twisting the motor wires can cause them to break quicker as they are under constant tension (from the twist). it’s also a good idea to leave some slack in the wires so they don’t get tugged on when the frame flexes in a crash. Finding the happy medium length of short and lightweight but still slacked without tension is a good idea. 2. I glued my receiver down with e6000 glue, I will paste a link at the end of this comment. You can also use double-sided mounting tape, which is easier to remove but it’s slightly heavier. e6 is typically able to be removed without damaging components. 3. The video antenna isn’t glued at all, It’s held in place with the U.fl connector on the board and i run the end of it through the frame out the back. Hope this helps! thanks for watching! www.tinywhoop.com/products/e6000?_pos=1&_sid=7520c0a21&_ss=r

Yess! Going to be awesome. we will see how raceable this board is, I’ve heard there may be some issues with VTX output power. Either way I had to test!

Hi! Thanks for watching. The magnet wire works fine in most situations. I recommend using it to connect 2 components which are glued together, such as the FC and RX in this build or the FC and VTX on other builds. It does work to connect the camera to the FC, but the camera mount can flex in crashes and I have broken the wire multiple times before because of that, so I would probably stick with silicone wire there. It insulates pretty well, I would say.