Older video, lots of good information on the MODEL A Distributor, I have a 1931 TUDOR, I'm installing a new Distributor, it is the original style Distributor, easier to set points gap, learned alot from your videos, THANKS.

Great video! I'm getting ready to do this on my '31 pickup shell and this is a big help. Thanks!

Open the Quail Cap, and adjust the hex Screws. I locked mine with Loctite.

While I'm not 100% certain, I believe that T45 is also the correct Torx bit for the plug in the 3.0 liter engines, including the SQ5 turbo engine. I took my SQ5 to a nearby Mr. Tire a few days ago, thinking that they would be able to do the oil change using the Mobil 1 ESP x2 oil that I brought (bought at Walmart in 5-qt containers). They repeatedly assured me that they could do this, that they work on Audi vehicles "all the time", etc., etc. The idiot they let do this simple, or try to do it, tried to remove the drain plug using an Allen wrench and a ratchet that was at least two feet long. He ruined the head of the plug so now in addition to needing an oil change I need to figure out how to remove the plug. I'm probably going to extract it from the top so that I can remove the pan, and then remove the plug with the pan off. Sigh.

Good material, but as usual with your videos, too much idle chatting and mis-speak - is it a bolt or a stud? If you could write a script BEFORE you video, you could make your videos more concise (and shorter) giving the same information.

Thank you. Great info

I just bought this same murray lawn tractor. 12.5hp 40 inch cut, 40708A. I'd like to replace the blades and I'm not sure what blades to get. Might you be able to offer any advice? More than likely I'd order off Amazon.

The RV sealer would cause point deduction on judging standards. It not needs, just coat gasket with a very lite film of grease.

The horn is not as important as the carburetor. Just my opinion.

What was the size of that o-ring?

Bratton's has a Distributor Bushing Tool Driver to remove and drive in new bushings. Easier than some other methods.

Historical note: The Phillips Head design was introduced in 1933 well after the Model A production ceased. Thus there should NEVER be any Phillips head screws on a Model A.

Thanks, and it worked. if there is a next time; one could use a die to thread it, then use a brass nut.😀

Great video

What if your 9/16 bolt was all threaded instead of part threaded?

I have a couple of those in my yard. Every fall, before the first frost, I shut off the water supply to them. Then, I blow compressed air into a hose bib that is upstream of the backflow preventer, and I alternatively open and close various relief valves in the preventer to allow the compressed air to push out the water. I used to use my A/C shop compressor, which weighs over 50 pounds. Carrying that thing around is a huge pain, and it's inconvenient to run extension cords to it. Then I bought a Makita 18V LXT cordless blower. It's the shape and size of a hairdryer. It weighs about 2 pounds, and the Makita batteries weigh less than a pound. That thing is super powerful. They also make a 48V XGT model that probably gives you more psi of blowing force, but the LXT is sufficient for my needs. I use it for other applications as well, but it's especially convenient for blowing out pipes. You just press the nozzle against the mouth of an open hose bib, squeeze the trigger, and watch water shooting out of the other end of your pipes where you opened a valve. With the backflow preventer, I first blow air into my hose bib, then I switch and blow air into the relieve valves on the backflow to force air in the opposite direction. The 18V makita blower will not blow enough air to damage plumbing, but it'll blow enough air to push most of the water out of your pipes and vaporize enough of the standing water remains to prevent your pipes from freezing.

The space between the gasket and the tabs (or "feet") underneath the thermo-quale base are adjustable. The cap should be installed with the tabs loosened and after positioning the cap properly, they are tightened down in place using an appropriately sized hex wrench. This prevents the entire cap from moving when the quale is opened up and eliminates the gasket thickness issue as well.

I fell asleep while u were explaining all that rocket science about taking the wheel off

cold chisel 😃

4:23 There is a "Spare" 15A Fuse Under the Hood Fuse Box in Slot #19 for the Radio. You are Correct the Radio Fuse Replacement is Interior Fuse Box on the Passenger Side, Slot #9 15A Listed Under ACC - CIGAR. Best of Luck!

In the application of putting head studs into a block, you should be trying to find or locate copper-based anti-seize

🐐

Thanks for the video! I am learning as much as I can before purchasing my own model A. By the time I get one I should be much more comfortable with routine and periodic maintenance thanks to guys like you.

Thank you; I seem to to recall; 1 of the bolt's is shorter than the other 2, because it goes in the hole, closest to the engine, and will pinch off the flywheel, and keep it from turning.😃Don't ask me how I know that 🤣

Great video I needed to see. My Dad had restored a 29 Phaeton. It was out of state having work and they changed the fluid. We brought it back to Indiana and had a polar vortex. Ultimately the head cracked and my Dad passed away. So I have a Model A I've gotta get the head off of. I've been putting it off because I just don't have any experience on that old stuff. I've worked on some flatheads but my concern was binding the studs on the four banger.

Well done! But, my biggest question is: how do you reinstall the new seal without damaging it? Will there be a "part 2" where you put everthing back together?

Where is the fuse for the speakers ???

I would suggest assembling the throttle valve in the throttle shaft each time you want sand or file on it. It holds the valve "square" in the bore, otherwise you run the chance of it being crooked in the bore.

Waiting for you to drop it on your toe

I truly appreciate your video as I have been searching for exactly how to remove the steering column in order to rebuild the steering box. I’ve people say that to get the horn rod they lowered the roof - well what do the rest of us do who have closed cars? What did you have to do to remove horn rod?

I have a 9 digit code in my gloves box

I recently did my rear brakes and there was no issues on my car removing the rear hubs. I just pulled on them with my hands. No puller required.

I had no difficulty getting my hubs off without a puller .

Finally I just bought my used Honda pilot and I’ve been searching high and low to something similar to my situation to help fix it thank you !!! 🖤🖤🖤

Thank you for your help. I did not know Vintage Precision had the hub puller. I purchased the Thermostat housing from them previously.

Thank you. You really took good closeups that are very important to get it right. And very detailed.

Thanks for the video. It was clear and honest and very helpful. My setup is very similar. Luckily I had bought a used pump at some point so was able to get the impeller from there. I'll rebuild the used one and have ready to swap if there is a next time. Thanks for posting.

Where did you get the new float

One more advantage of the 2-piece distributor shaft I forgot to include - slightly easier to remove from the head when attached to the armored ignition cable!

I noticed you have an ammeter on your bench, is this a china made or earlier then this? Do you have some ammeters for sale?

I used a large carb fuel bowl float made out of brass.

Seems that commutator not in good condition, must then be overhauled when separated

Next time!! Take some 2×6 boards cut them to what ever you need to fit the wheel and other rusty parts then take big enough pice of plastic then line it and with small nails nail it around the top board and if nor deep enough put 4 legs on eatch coner then fill it up

Torque spec for drain bolt?

Yeah, you do NOT have to remove the wheel, although it makes is slightly easier. That much work for 'slightly' isn't worth it. Just crank each side toe-in and bend the liner.

Problem: these signs are designed for Slow Moving Vehicles (SMV) that do not go faster than 25 mph. So if you're thinking about installing one of these on a Model A, check your local traffic laws to make sure you're not in violation of the law.

I have original steel drums on my 1931 Tudor that have probably been on there foreever. But it also has reinforcing bands on each drum. I've put 25,000 miles on my car and the brakes work just fine. Just sayin' ...

Hi, I just watched your video, thanks for this series. I have a 1928 A and yesterday I pulled the head off. I used the soft rope in the # 1 and #4 sparkplug holes and filled the cylinders with rope then turned the engine over with a 3 ft breaker bar and the head popped up. I think this method is VERY SAFE. i If the engine runs the pressure that occurs from normal combustion is many times as great on the piston, rod, and bearing material.. Each cylinder produces 10 HP and presses on each piston or over 800lbs of force. Far more than my breaker bar can produce. Normal compression is 65lpsi ( piston sq in is Pi, R x R )) So anyway the rope trick does work and is worth a try. Pete

Older video, great explanation of how to remove the distributor, I've seen in some cases they can be difficult, that's why it's important to keep your distributor shaft oiled properly, I have a 1931 Deluxe TUDOR, Randell Strickland has a channel on YT, he is a good Model A FORD mechanic, learned alot from his videos, check it out sometime, excellent video, SUBSCRIBED.

What causes the engine to die when coming to a sudden stop?