That amazing story,,, even in the i still can imagine the shaking hand after the bomb, nice surf experience

Blew it goofy

Hero

Looking at those Nias waves... I would NEVER bro lol.

6-8' Nias - not good enough need bigger haha crazy!

I remember watching that one thinking "who is this guy wtf is he thinking!?" that was insanely late you weren't chipping in it was already heaving❤

The first shot that I saw you had no vest made me cringe until the end. Visceral story. Cheers.

Loved the story, incredible wave glad you made it. Good luck getting that wave!

low tide salad bowl!!!

Fair dinkum

What the heck, that photographer is a legend to. Swimming out there in that. I reckon they are crazier than the surfers they filming. They sitting in the impact zone the whole time.

The fact that you stood up till the end, made the sick shoot, but you put yourself in a sketchy situation. Well done

Great story well told! Glad you were relatively unscathed considering what could have been. That wave does look absolutely massive in the photo. I mean, you don’t impress me as being a small guy so you can tell from that one photo where you’re relatively unrighteousness how much taller the wave is.

😎 I really like this guys style. No trip or airport waste of my time no travel to the break just what the header says “wipeouts” I’m subscribing.

Ah my friend from Blue Indo... your name should be Cobalt... the steel balls!

I felt that...

You blokes are a breed apart. No doubt.

No board damage? Leash snap? What were you riding? Let’s get geeky pls

Hallo

thanks for sharing....gnarly

I agree with the other poster Matt you made me feel like I was there., Don't get hurt for a good wave Matt

Thank you for your story of all the wipeout stories that I've heard on KZfaq yours gave me a feeling of what I went through it's not fun. Stay calm. Stay safe.

Beyond Heavy

The Hebrew symbol on his hat is the number 666.

Super heavy. Amazing explanation. It was like being there. 😮😮

Wow - incredible video Matt. I was at Nias in 1988, before you were born. Amazing story telling. Glad you made it. 🙏🙏

Ooooooooooooooooonoce

I have surfed some biggish waves and always remember thinking or saying as I paddled into them, it's death or glory, and sometimes death is closer than you would like to realise. A great example of total commitment and understanding that this may be the wave of your life, hats off to you Matt, I am impressed that you chose a big one then took off and made the drop. I hope you have many big waves left in you, well done.

like dropping in to a salad bowl

That wave keeps calling you back because it wants to kill you!! It's Christine the devil wave 🌊

Faaarrrrrkkkkk that 😆

That’s not outta Bomb is it?

We said at 15ft Asu 'It looked easy on KZfaq'

This guy is a class act! The humblest big wave legend…. So much respect.

This guy is a class act! The humblest big wave legend…. So much respect. 🤙🏼

That wave was bonkers 😮

👍🏆

Looks cool as, loving the grower type entry!

More please!

Golly how scary, with all the jet skis flying in to rescue you, float jackets and safety equipment, it must be the 3rd most important thing on your mind. Lastly earthquakes, are you fucking kidding me? Try surfing blind, in 1988 when a monster bomb swell maxes out the entire south bay, only guys surfing are Ted Robinson and Joey Buran out at Cable Cars mile outside out of El Porto.. we paddled out at Old Mans, and the fog was so thick, we thought we were on the outside, and then hoots and hollers from way way outside come in, my friend Connell and I, looked at each other and we paddled our 6' 8" DJ Spyder Boards by Pat Reardon for the horizon and out of the fog come 20 Foot white water! We bailed our boards and dove, the whitewater snapped my leash, my friend Connell his leash held and I swam to him and would not let go. He panicked, I pannicked, but the rest of the sets whitewater washed us into shore, as San Onofre, breaks out a solid mile Plus, back in those days, there were no helmets, gear or even jet skis, you were on your own, and safety was #1, on your list of things to do, I clamped onto a buddy who was floating and would not let go.. I never would have been able to swim a mile plus, in 20-25 foot bombed out inside 3 foot foam, in zero visibility. Yes, wrong move? Stupid, but today, they would be dropping off lattes to the guys in the lineup on "skis bra" with oxygen tanks and supplements and hooker hand jobs on the boats in the channel for those who are anxious. Different decade, era and breed of surfers vs. nowadays..

Epic , honest story telling at it's best . Love your work Matt . Yew .

Yes I got pushed down into a crevasse on a reef break in WA.it wasn’t that big but I could feel a ledge pressing against the front of my upper thighs, I tried to push off the bottom but my leg rope was snagged on something, so I didn’t go anywhere. I panicked so much that I kicked so hard with my leg rope leg, and snapped the leg rope and then surfaced. That was the strength the panic gave me.I came in totally traumatised and it wasn’t even that big!

Jisssus!!! I have nightmares just seeing that clip... insane drop!

Stud🫵

Should be called the Best Wipeouts. Will be hard one to beat

Dude, you SUCK! What were you thinking on half of those wipeouts LMAO!!! Just kidding, you're a beast and got balls the size of grapefruits to even go on most of those waves. Cheers bro, be safe going forward and thx for the great content!

very glad your ok yikes

6:14 great pic though! Great story thanks for sharing.

Heavy bro!

Love your stories bro, thanks!