lol, not any more,

Are there any events happened before this sound appeared, has this board been working or has it always done this. the only place I can think of were a sound would come from is the coil in the actual convertor

@@TheBreadboardca it was working really good before but we start to drecrease the Vin to study the stability in Vout and then when we try to increase Vin again it starts to do a sound abd Vout seems like being cortocircuit with Vin

you may also need to increase input v to 9 - 12V, 7V may be too low for this board. (From memory of over 7 years ago :) )

@@TheBreadboardca when i put 9V it starts to sound weird and that was not happened before :c

often the volts range is directly measured by the CPU on the board, with a divider network of course, the adjustment will just tweak the divider ratio. The current if often measured by a small ADC external to the CPU, it is programmed by the CPU and unless your able to re-program the device is pretty much fixed. Having said that, the SHUNT (Small piece of thick wire usually ) could be adjusted by filing or soldering to its surface to adjust its value. The adc is measuring the voltage across the shunt . It is often the case were the description of a device does not match the reality of what you received. especially if there made and bought from "Overseas" at a budget price.

@@TheBreadboardca Ha! Mine doesn't even have a metal shunt like the one on the video. Of course, in the pictures it has a shunt (lol). The one I have has one big 16 pin chip (unmarked) and a voltage regulator. There's a "big" R018 smd resistor near the ammeter connector, though. Could that be the "shunt"?

@@peddersoldchap Yes, most lightly it is. it would be under 1ohm in most cases and the more current it is rated for, the lower this value would be to keep heat dissipation down, most lightly it is in the milli ohms range..

@@TheBreadboardca So, if I want to adjust the ammeter, I should replace that resistor with one of a different value?

Thank you, I appreciate the info (As will any interested viewers)

Sorry I do not, good luck though

LOL, My wife Nora also has a Long Arm but I have not yet automated it, did you post details on your automation (I would love to get more points :) ). I did provide Martin Jerry switches providing zoned lighting across the sewing room (Cutting, Quilting and general sewing. And the longarm itself of course). The one rule I have to follow is, sure I can automate it but there must always be manual traditional backup for when not if things dont work lol.

Glad there of use still after all these years, yes those displays are very easy to program for a number of cool uses. A power supply display is a good choice.

What you need is the exact model of the led display, the details are typically printed on the back of the display panel. With this info you can Google the details. If the display is typical then the pin out should be standard. But a 4k display will probably have at minimum 2 channel but probably more. Post the display model and make if you can't find the details and I'll have a quick search and see what I can discover for you

@@TheBreadboardca Its the Sharp LQ156D1JW33 thats the exact model but they offer both matte and non-touch, in the Thinkpad world the pinout for touch/non-touch is slightly different and Dell never offered a non-touch version of the Sharp LQ156D1JW33 but whats strange is Dell themselves used the Sharp LQ156D1JW33 to make their own custom display assembly infused behind glass where they added the touch feature to this panel themselves somehow. So i was hoping to find the pinouts so i can make the matte version work since the glossy screen hurts my eyes. Bliss computers sells the matte/glossy non touch Sharp LQ156D1JW33 and advertises it as compatible but its seems i need an LVDS cable that doesnt exist.

@@jakkiryanov9859 As I suspected, this display has a different interface, it uses eDP not LVDS, The eDP interface allows higher transmission speeds as opposed to LVDS cables. eDP also uses less conductors on your cable design reducing space and possible cost depending on the design. Another benefit of eDP cabels is that they allow you to easily connect your source (such as a person computer) directly to an LCD. hwew is the details on panellook.com www.panelook.com/LQ156D1JW33_Sharp_15.6_LCM_overview_34287.html so an LVDS adapter will not help here, you will need one supporting eDP, so far I have not rtied any as I have not come across a display needing one. I hope it helps.

Is there anything you need to have help with?

@@TheBreadboardca I think something that would make a good video, especially for beginners is component selection for precision voltage and current regulation. For me the op-amp specifications were difficult too differentiate. I've spent hours on Newark while googling slew rate and the like.

if this just happened then it sounds like your eye displays ( there are two, one for each eye) have moved, maybe with the headset getting knocked or dropped etc. if the recording is ok then it shows the issue is not from the camera or transmitter end. if this is how it is from new then it maybe your eye positioning (FIT), on later use i did get the sense it was sometimes a little finicky to get optimal view.

The part about 14 mins in is were i see myself "Shunting" the Shunt resistor, considering the value of the shunt is in the milli ohms (0.025Ohms) the human body resistance is something in the kOhms (even 10K is very low for a body) will have negligible impact on the reading ( 1/Rt = 1/Shunt + 1/body ) = 1/0.025 (40) + 1/10,000 (0.0001) = 1/40.0001 = 0.0249999ohms. I hope this is self explanatory in response to your comment. Am I shunting the value... yes, significant in any way... no. if this was a resistor of several K then it will be more significant and as its value increases, the affect is more so, but as I said, in this case it is not relevant. I do appreciate your comment though and thanks for the opportunity to educate a few viewers that may have thought the same thing and just not said anything.

@@TheBreadboardca Thank you for this response....all ways good to hold bare wire when taking ANY reading ( wether negligible difference in read value than the exact value ). is what is stated in your reply. So...how about measuring milli-volts just your way !!! Next...upscale and try wall outlets........Bare finger tips, Of Course !!! Education ???

@@NavinBetamax Your twisting my words ?, measuring an un powered milli ohm resistor using your fingers to keep the wires on the probes is not at all the same as sticking your fingers in a live socket, if the person doing the measuring is not aware of basic safety etc then they should not be using the meter.

No….no twisting of any words of yours by me here……Straight up you are doing it right. Please forget I ever said anything here. Peace !!!

@@NavinBetamax No Problems

Yes, that defiantly could be a faulty psu, but a lack of ground would not cause it, as it is the current going through the ground that would cause the gfci to teip

It has been a while but it is very possible there is a command that sets the system date time, and probably a different one to set the hardware clock date and time, some newer systems will do both together but not all, I think this may be such a case. I had never tried this myself during my reviews. I hope that helps stear you in the right direction

welcome aboard

I don't use mine every day but I put in some Duracell batteries after I reviewed and am still using them now. I replaced the ones that came with it as I have more confidence in the duracells

You would loose some of the colors, I don't think the controller or screen tries to reconfigure to use a single Channel, you can buy just a 2 channel cable quite cheap, just make sure it has the right connector

@@TheBreadboardca Thank you for your advice