My initial was at 16 degrees. Cams like the E,B, and TFS1 bleed off a lot of compression due to the overlap. I would put a vacuum gauge on it, start at 14 and see what it likes.

Of course it did 🤣 W62 was an OPTION. The W62 cars got solid grille panels. I’ve owned three non-W62 84s and guess what; they had grilles.

No. Only A9L and A9P cars.

Any aftermarket cam is going to smell fat at idle. The EEC is going to keep the A/F stoich, but the “richness” at idle is cause by the overlap of the cam.

If you don’t understand and can’t figure it out, leave the box alone. This video was intended for those that have the ability to follow simple verbal instructions.

Yep, more than likely.

You shouldn’t need one

@@Joesmusclecargarage Whats the issue then? any ideas?

@chriss4365 I have no idea what you did. Removing slop from a box does not change the location of the pitman arm in relation to the drag link, tie rods, and spindles. Did you remove too much slop and the box is binding?

@Joesmusclecargarage I adjusted about half a turn. The steering is fine no issues.

Pull the IAC and SPOUT before you fire it up. Set the idle, shut it off, then reconnect the IAC and SPOUT

So at the end of this I did the base idle reset and now its all good

A B cam might like to idle at 1000, depending on the heads, compression, idle vacuum, etc. My TFS1 idled at around 900-950. Any lower and it would surge with the air on.

@@Joesmusclecargarage that makes sense. That's about where it idled when I bought it. I only drove it a few times then started fixing everything wrong with the car. It just wouldn't start last week so I ended up deleting the msd 6 al box, msd distributor and coil and just putting a new distributor in it. I think it was built 20 plus years ago and been sitting a long time. Thanks again 👍

Too stupid to understand simple verbal instructions huh? That’s ok. You’re better off keeping your little hands clean and leaving it to someone with a double digit IQ.

The bearings are the original bearings. It’s not a rebuild video. I understand bearings “wear in” and tolerances can increase .002-.003”. The bearings are not the cause of the excessive slop in a box. If the bearings are shot, the box needs to be gone through and adjusting it won’t fix it.

0.98volts is the actual setting Ford used at the factory to make all of the engine settings when tuning the ECU...Ever heard of a thing called " Engine Load"? Engine load dictates how an A9L reads and alters the tune numbers...Its done using complicated math inside the processor and the settings set inside the ECU gives it a preset operating range or voltage value , frequency range , degrees or even time setting for each sector .. Theres this lil thing called a checksum setting that the computer auto generates after doing a calculation of all the internal settings as a whole and the ECU verifies the current state against this checksum number..... Any changes made to an ECU via a tuning chip alters this checksum value number which gives the ECU a different outlook on the state of the current combo..... If the checksum number the computer is sensing doesnt match Fords number the computer doesnt do accurate calculations as per the combo................... A stock checksum number for a stock Mustang 5.0 Five speed car is 60638 and the computer follows what the boundries of the checksum dictates..Dropping the TPS voltage without making appropriate changes in the TPS scaling tables drops the engine load calculation number and throws off injector timing calculations aswell as where the engine runs on the spark also injector timing table and once you go beyond the 12% adjustability youre running dangerous..... If you change the combo in any way from bone stock you must update the internal settings inside the ECU which gives a new checksum number which is done with a tuning chip or even a StarTool used by Ford... My new checksum number is 6861 and must be noted for when i need my ECU repaired or reflashed or ill get the stock 60638 reinstalled...... What most dont realize is if you had a Ford Dealership thats known for performance vehicles like Crown Vics & Mustangs that had the $3300.00 StarTool youll find that they offered a progressive tune package where they finetune the tune on your vehicle as per current altitude , engine state and MAF Flow etc which gives the ECU a new checksum number especially If you paid for this service after installing Fords preformance accesories like camshaft headders etc you were given the info for ECU repairmen to verify or like stated above it will yield in you getting a stock checksum in return.........Its the same ECU tune they do on all police cars too but that wasnt ever discussed and also to mention that when copcars are sold at auction the ECUs are supposed to be reflashed with the stock checksum number and speed limiters...LOL kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n9mJnMWrnMjbo2Q.html

I’m well aware.

Sticking pressure regulator in the box

Verify injector pulse with a noid light. Verify fuel pressure.

@@Joesmusclecargarage innectors are new and working fine. Fuel pressure is good and fuel pump is new. It starts but just wont idle. Vac hoses appear to be all good. Im at a loss here. It will run if I squirt fuel into the TB. I just dont understand

It’s standard 3/8 steel line

If the car still has CFI it will.

Well something is hanging the idle. Is one of the TBs hanging open? Did you do a base idle reset after you replaced the IACs?

Depends on the cam. A stock car will benefit from 10-12 degrees base. A mild cam could want as much as 15-16 degrees. Play with it and see what it likes

You don’t buy a “kit”. You go to the junkyard with your tools, find an L03, pull the top end off of it, bring it home, and replace the LU5 setup. It’s not hard or time consuming, and even an incompetent can knock it out in an afternoon.