@@dragon-junction-MK2 yes Alan, it’s something I certainly wasn’t looking forward to. Having made a start I need to get on with it so I can start getting the new bits done and start running trains to test.

Thanks, I will from time to time include my models on this channel especially when I use them on my layout. However, I have started my business channel ( @scenic3d ) and I will be trying to get more videos up on both channels more regularly.

@@peterjackson-cheadleheath1182 yes, I think that now I have made the effort in getting back to it I feel that I can put it all behind me and go forward. It might end up being an expensive bit of scenery on my layout but at least it’s good looking 😂 I really enjoy building the scenic area so there is still lots to do so I will keep busy

There is good and bad in all manufacturers. It’s just a shame that in trying to achieve accuracy the quality suffers.

Thank you! Cheers!

Hi, the degree markings don’t really have any significance to be honest. It is essential that all lines coming onto the turntable point directly to the centre. The position around the turntable can be anywhere except the dead point position which is marked on the sheet of paper. Hope that helps, regards, Geoff

@@JumbleLaneThanks. That's very helpful.

Using a sock or tube where a cable goes through a case often helps spread the movement along the cable and hopefully reduce the direct constant bending in one place. Unfortunately there are many to and fro movements that it still breaks after a while. Hopefully you get or have hot yours repaired

Glad to be of help Duncan, if you ever need any further help you are welcome to email me on [email protected] and also take a look at the items I produce on scenic3d.co.uk

Hi and thanks, yes the layout has come on a lot since the video. As for the turntable I have always thought there was only one turntable better than the Heljan that I know about. Unfortunately it is no longer available. I like the way you can use the Heljan on DC or DCC layouts and operate it in different ways. I can use the provided control box or I can simply send a signal on my DCC controller and operate it from there. It is very accurate as well and only needs re calibration whenever you remove the bridge from the well for cleaning etc. since installing I have now started 3D printed items for the model railway hobby and one of my best sellers is the turntable surround. Checkout scenic3d.co.uk for more details. You could also watch grandads train room on KZfaq as he did a great series of videos on his layout showcasing this very item and the same turntable. Regards, Geoff

Thanks, if i do go for Heljan i'll be sure to get your turntable surround they look really good.

Hi, a fair point. Everything regarding the servicing and fault finding would be the same for either DC or DCC up to the point of the decoder. If your motor is working ok when connected to a supply directly then the only thing it can be is the wiring to the wheel pick ups or the pick ups themselves. This loco is going to be the subject of another repair job and I might even treat it to a new motor. Not sure a video will feature it. Geoff

Hi, the glue I used was Rocket Card Glue. This dries almost immediately. I have the small bottles with a needle applicator do I decant the glue into these for easier use. Geoff

Hi, I designed and printed them. I sell them on my website Scenic3D.co.uk along with lots more goodies.

Just bought a set from you on eBay.

@@lms_steve6693 thanks, be nice to see photos when done.

Hi Colin, yes I still do backscenes but I have been backlogged due to being busy with the jigs etc. if you do have the images you want printing and they are high enough resolution then that’s ok and it would be less of a problem. Best thing to do is phone or email me. 07931776978 or [email protected]

Hi Peter, yes, I have a growing range of N gauge stuff. Ironically I was asked about pumpkins in N gauge recently but I had a full Halloween set before and no-one was interested. Maybe try and get a pack or two out again 😂

Cheers Deano

Hi, as far as I know it’s the height of the track and not the geometry that the code refers to. I have had customers use the N gauge jigs without problem. However, as always with my products, especially with the jigs, if you purchase them and find you are having problems just email or phone me and I will do a re-design to match your points and send you the replacement free.

Yes, have got a list of probable items, it’s just having time to get around to doing it, thanks

@@JumbleLane The major hurdle: Time itself. Understood.

Hi Charlie, I wouldn’t say it is the best for small locos, it’s basically one that fits. This was done a good while ago and I have learned a lot since. The one thing I would say for small locos especially 0-4-0 configurations is that if you can fit a stay alive capacitor then do so as it will improve the performance vastly. As for the intro music, it was sone music clip that was bundled with the editing software unused at the time. I must agree that it does sound a little similar and that’s why I probably chose it as it’s the sort of music I like as well. Regards, Geoff.

Hi Robert, it is in fact done and I really need to upload the video but not had time to edit it. I have been very busy getting my eBay shop and online shop up and running. I want to include products within my videos but got so much to do. I will get around to it soon and I will show off the embankments.

Hi, I am using the Z21 Black.

@@JumbleLane who makes that bud

@@peterwebster3076 Hi, it’s made by Roco, they do the white version which is a more basic model. It comes with a WiFi router so you can access it using apps on tablets and phones

This is about the sixth go at the bridge, it started of just two tracks but now having four. It still is not perfect as it constantly needs adjusting

So now you know 😂

No problem with messaging me or even email me. [email protected] if you want anytime. As for the loco going on and off without dropout if sound or lights this is a trick. The turntable can be turned to desired position and if the position you require it to go to has to go through the dead spot then select the position again and send it to the same position. In operation that means once it goes to desired position then send it there again and it will turn 180 degrees. Then drive your loco on and once in position send it to the desired new position. Because the turntable was entered on the tail end the head end did not have to go far to the new desired position and hence not through the dead spot. This was covered on another video later on. Good luck and contact me if you need to.

Hi, I will check out your channel, as for a difference in gauge the motors will work fine, they work independently of gauge.

Hi, operation of the point motors was not shown as it was not the point of the video. However, the units shown are DCC controlled and you program them by simply switching them into programming mode and operating your chosen accessory address on your controller then switching back to run mode. You also can connect switches to the units to operate the points manually. Both ways are utilised on my layout as I can control using my DCC controller or the two panels that are built into the layout

So they can not be controlled via push buttons or a switch, I don’t want to use my DCC controller for switch motors

I also emailed DCC concepts for more information, they look great , good additions to a double crossover

@@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267 Yes they can be controlled by push switches, the units supplied with them will work with either way of control. There are a series of connections. The unit comprises of two controls on one board. The two work independently of each other. Each part has a series of connections, the power goes to the unit and can be a dc supply or the DCC bus. There are connections which are switched outputs which act as a single pole double throw switch, there is also transistorised outputs which will give a 12v output to one of two connections dependant on the turnout position. These are only capable of low currents. The last set of connections are three terminals which are left, right and common. A normally open push switch can be connected across the common a left, pushing the switch will throw the turnout left, equally connecting one to the right and common with throw the turnout right. Hope this helps, it might be an excuse for a new video I think.

Thanks Foxy

Its certainly a pleasure indeed Geoff :-). If I may ask, how has Godfrey been recently? Because I used to see his comments on your channel fairly regularly back in 2019 but have not seen his comments recently. I hope he is well? Take care Geoff :-). From Foxy :-).

@@Foxys-Collective-Videography my dad Godfrey is fine thanks, still watching videos but like you say, it’s been a while since my last update and more are long overdue so that’s why he hasn’t been commenting. There has been lots going on behind the scenes here especially starting up the eBay store to sell the 3D printed items I do. The store is called Scenic3D and it’s on eBay. I shall be doing videos of my products soon hopefully

Godfrey is your respectable father Geoff? How interesting yet thrusting fervantly some tremendously enchanted direct wonders indeed learning this toil of information from you :-). I though Godfrey was your brother or cousin or uncle or something I was certainly not aware that he was your father Geoff :-O :-). Thanks for letting me know of this and I am happy he is still alive and well :-). Is your mother still alive Geoff? If you don't mind me asking you? I can certainly understand as to why your father Godfrey had not commented on your contents very much because of some long overdue model rail projects you have been kneedeep with working on. But thanks indeed for your friendly comments as usual and I certainly shall look forward to your future videos :-). Take care and many happy wishes Geoff :-). My kind regards to Godfrey :-). From Foxy :-).

I think I understand what you are saying. Because with print and cut you have to define the area which is cut by erasing the colour of the area you do not want. In this case the unwanted area is the background which is the white paper because it is not printed on and just so happens to be the same colour as the preserved area. The bleed area is an over print of the printing itself so when you cut you do not cut beyond the chosen printed area.

@@JumbleLane this is somewhat difficult without being there to point. But it seems the area you want preserved and not cut into, always has to have some bleed or shading/print of some kind, correct? So no portion of a structure can be white on the image, correct?

@@KenN.OXN.805 I s as m not totally sure of the point you are making. The term bleed is used in printing which means a printed area which is cut as part of the manufacturing process is over printed very slightly so when the cut is made all of the initial print is preserved when it is cut. For instance, you are printing small square cards which have a red border line and these cards are cut on a guillotine at a later time in the process. The red portion is printed a tiny bit bigger so when it’s cut you can ensure the red is visible all around the cut edge. As we are printing essentially white on a white background there is no actual print as white is the unprinted area so we have to fool the printer into believing that the area to be cut out is a different colour ie, the frame and the glass. I hope this explains it.

@@JumbleLane ok, I think I get it now. I’ll have to look at the video again. It looked like the print then cut frame had some shading/color. I thought that was the bleed you referred to.

@@KenN.OXN.805 I would have to check the video again, it’s been a while since I shot it. The one frame I made fid have done shading as an attempt to make it look weathered and dirty, I think this was explained in the video though.

Hi Ken, In some ways I agree. There are editing issues but in my defence I would like to explain a few things. In the video I mentioned that I had pressed record on the camera and it did not record. I did not know that at the time and when I thought I had pressed stop I had actually pressed record. Going forward to the next time I wanted to start recording I pressed stop. This went on for a while before I realised and even then I did not know the extent of the mistake until the job was done and I was editing. Not an excuse but the truth. Another thing is that I am a hobbyist who wanted to share what I was doing to give ideas to others using the tools and equipment I use for myself, I am not a seasoned video producer and obviously it shows. Yes, I would like to think that I improve over time. However I think all in all I got the point over and given at least some people an idea and an insight into using this sort of crafting machine to produce something like this. Finally, I welcome all comments on my videos and encourage anyone to comment good or bad. However, if a comment is telling me something is wrong or bad in some way it would help to give details of the issue that person has. As mentioned above, I am not a professional video producer and in many cases it shows. I hope this amateur level of editing did not detract from the overall video and that the information did get across and you could see what the video set out to do. Regards, Geoff.

Hi Roger, yes, I do use thinner card and laminate it. It dies really depend on what I am making and also the material I am using. In many cases it will be a stronger object if it is built up of several layers as opposed to a single layer, a bit like plywood except the grain changes by 90deg every layer in plywood. The next thing is to consider the blade. There are standard blades and there are deep cut blades. Then next thing is to consider in the settings is the amount of passes per cut. Think of it you using a craft knife to cut something and you score three or four times before you go all the way through. I do use a separate design package to make my designs and that is because the Cricut interface is very limited for complex designs and although may be possible it will take an awful lot longer and is more tedious. My go to software is no longer in production although may be available by looking around. It is Serif Drawplus, the version I use is X8 but is no longer supported by Serif. They do have a new range of design software which I also have and that is in the Affinity Range of packages. Any artwork design software can be used and I would suggest whatever you are comfortable and proficient in using. You just need to export your design as either an SVG or JPEG file and upload into Design Space as a cut file. Make sure it is sized as required and then select MAKE IT. Hope that helps but if you need any further help just contact me on [email protected]

Thanks, I am well behind on my videos as I have been so busy pushing my 3D printing business as well as the other type of printing all at the same time as running my full time main work. I have done a lot more to this bridge and should be bringing out the video soon.

The cad files are not currently available online but I can probably help you out with your requirements if you email me on [email protected]

Thanks, it had been playing up for a while now and like any intermittent fault you can only find it when it is in fault. It’s all sorted now so on with more printing.

Hi Ian, very true, there has been many improvements and innovations made in design since this was done and the electronics are getting smaller all of the time, something to use when updating etc.

Now that is a novel idea. I have thought of N gauge so many times so I can get more for a given space but I now struggle with OO gauge at times, I have varifocal glasses but I still need close up work glasses as well

Thanks Dave, I always have lots of plans and ideas and not always getting on with them but I intend on getting these done straight away

Thanks, there is more to come

Hi Richard, the monitor is a Lenz LRC 120. You can search for it on the internet and associated products such as the LP 161. I did do a quick search and they are around at about £45-£50 but not many people have them in stock. You have to have decoders which have Railcom switched on and also a DCC controller that has also Railcom reporting switched on. I have a Z21 controller and it works fine with that. I was actually given this unit as they did not have a controller that allowed the thing to work. Hope that answers your question.

@@JumbleLane many thanks Geoff

I’ll have to ask more questions as I run Hornby Railmaster…🤔

@@richardswallow1967 I had Railmaster with the DCC interface rather than the Elite controller and found that to be pretty much limited. It served me well until I wanted to do more things and have integration with other things but I do have to say setting up a route and to set a train on a journey was a lot of fun and easy as long as it ran smoothly.

@@JumbleLane I run railmaster with elite… size of new layout, it’s ok…

Hi Simon, I started off with a pull up section rather than having to crawl under the section as you may remember. Having a knee replacement just before I started the layout made me think about it long term. I can now scramble down and get out while trains are running but it is not comfortable. I did not think I could achieve having a hinged section at first as the section is on an angle but with a bit of thought I realised if I made a cut at 90deg to the run of the track at a short distance from the wall it would work. I designed the hinges to have their fulcrum point above the level of the track so when it starts to lift they would instantly move away from each other, I then 3D printed them. It took a couple of design changes but I got there in the end.