@@martybrennan4821 I have four important books I used on this bike, 1940 to 1947 service manual covers knuckles and side valves, 1936 to 1948 Spare parts book covers knuckles and side valve big twins lowbrow sells a reproduction of it it’s not complete though it’s missing the section on the head lamp but this book has the part numbers , then there is the book how to restore your Harley Davidson by Bruce Palmer the III, the forth one is the nice photograph one, UL & Knucklehead restoration book by Dan Henke thick 440 page book it has old parts dope sections which is old in bulletins sent to dealers V-twin part number 48-0928, if you have these four you got all the information,

@@stanscroggins5523 Our favorite and we use it in everything is Mobil 1 v-twin 20-50, it is high in zinc which is what these flat tappet cam engines need, it rates the highest in scar testing and piston, galling, unless we’re braking in a motor we use non synthetic high zinc then we switch it over,

@@JoeStein-z6e on your 68 there is a stud with 2 distance spacers part number F5532 (82-5532) one goes on each side of the engine and if they are in place the engine is square in the frame once every thing is tight, one of the next videos we will be installing the bottom end, Thanks for the great comment,

@@mogdefender8520 The shunt coil is originally marked with a white identification mark and the regulating field coil has a orange identification mark, another way of identifying is the wires on the shunt coil are close together and the regulating coil there around an inch or so separated from each other,

@@muzza881 Boy you sure got that right every part of this bike was messed up! And for a while we had our doubts that it was even savable. But it turned out great in the end

@@johnutting9615 1.7500 STD for 750’s and 850’s anything less means the crank has been ground and has thicker bearings

@@jessesvintagegarage765 thank you, the mannual I have is missing this info. Thanks

@@nigelbeaumont1109 Well we made those tools, you can buy something like it from lowbrow customs and a wrench looking one on eBay they cost more than making them like we did though, But to make them you will just need to measure the caps slot and get a chunk of 1/2 hex stock and weld the pieces together. Triumphs need two for mid 72 and earlier, one for rocker box caps and one for all the rest

@@jessesvintagegarage765 Thanks a lot.

62 Harley

@@alanhodge984 No the air jet is still in place. People talk about taking it out when changing the jetting to the so called Non EPA or European jetting. But to be honest my bike just runs all around better with mostly original jetting. As you watched the video the only major thing I changed was the needle jet I changed out the original stainless 105 to a 106 needle jet with mostly everything else the same I did put smaller enrichner jet in I've tried a few different ones and the 35 and 40 both work nice mine originally had a 50 and you had to take the enrichment lever off rather quickly or it could foul plugs easily.

@@jessesvintagegarage765 sounds good i am going to order some 106 jets and keep everything else (in the carbs) stock i had the screws out 2 1/2 turns per the 'book' but way too lean with gauze/wire pancake filters and 'freeflow' emgo short megaphones i am going riding in the AM with screws out 1 3/4 turns and see what that does.......thanks for all your help ride safe!

@@user-ek5hp4fn4l The blue sealed bearing that was in the kit was a C3 bearing so we just ordered a shielded C3 bearing and used it. Just so you know a bearings clearance will change if the bearings outside and inside are a tight fit or opposite if both sides are a loose slip fit if you follow what I mean?

@@donrice8026 Thanks

Well the old manuals you see are my father’s from a long time ago and we still use them, the new reprint manual and parts book I bought them from Baxter Cycle here in Iowa they have a website if it’s too far away to visit, I get most of my new and new original and used original parts from there,

@@daveco1270 The center stand, yes we connected spring first and attached a ratchet strap to the center stand and the end of the swing arm and started ratcheting until the holes lined up and popped in the bolts and started tightening them up it worked great, and I wanted to record that but it took both of us and we were up to our elbows at trying to get it done, thanks for the great comment

I heard about a technique to get the spring on by using 10 cent coins. You just stick a bunch between the coils of the spring and when you get enough in it makes the spring long enough to clip it in. Have not tried it myself, but saw that in another video. This ratchet method obviously works too.

I have used the coin method along with a “T” handled hook used for dirt bikes exhaust. Getting the hardware lined up while the spring is under tension with a ratchet strap seems a bit complicated and you said it took two of you. I’ve done this job alone using coins and hook on both running bikes and frame up rebuilds.

@@cdpd3 there are two sets of hardware to look engine to frame set, smmotorco.com/product/triumph-tr6-t120-engine-to-frame-bolt-nut-set-650cc-bonneville-tiger-1965-68/ and the actual just frame hardware set www.thebonnevilleshop.com/product/1965-68-triumph-650-t120-tr6-bonneville-frame-bolt-hardware-kit-pn-tbs-frame-03/ this should cover you the shock hardware is separate though late 68’s the threads started changing these places are good at listing part numbers so make sure to reference your parts book and you should be good to go, thanks for the great comment and we’re happy to help anyone,

@@cdpd3 I know exactly what you mean about the hardware, I had similar problems, cross threaded, random hardware that was not the right length and thread pitch, and the finish wasn’t good enough on the correct stuff so I had got both of those kits I mentioned in the previous message in this video particularly the hardware for the center stand is original there was so much grease and oil on the bolts lock tabs and nuts that the finish actually stayed nice so I cleaned it all up and reused it that hardware is hidden well and seemed good to me though we are trying really hard to make this bike look amazing, and good luck with yours, best wishes and thanks again,

@@jessesvintagegarage765 Thanks for the reply, I will look there and see if I can find everything I need.

@@jessesvintagegarage765 and yea, this bike has everything, metric, imperial, hex bolts, BSF, BSW, it is all here. I mean I get it, this bike was ridden and over the years lots of stuff had to be fixed with what they had and it works. I just want to start fresh with a clean set. Thanks again for the info

@@neilzlozower3430 I thought I did let me try again

Yes those are breathers in an earlier video we talked about those breathers and we found those quite reasonably priced they made sense to us to add. Those aluminum washers are a necessity, Here is the video when we first installed the rocker boxes kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b5lde9epzM3HdWQ.htmlsi=-XEQjzX9qzy2vr72 hopefully this helps, in the comments in that video there is a link for the rocker box breathers on where to find the ones we got,

@@haroldhholden awesome thanks, we do try to provide great detail and information to help out everyone we appreciate your great comment thanks again

@@haroldhholden I am about to post part 7 sorry for the hold up

@@andremenezes6428 awesome thanks

@@user-ek5hp4fn4l We choose to stay with the same style bearings as original. Although sealed bearings would've probably worked fine, but we didn't want that style.

@@neilzlozower3430 Yes those are breathers in an earlier video we talked about those breathers and we found those quite reasonably priced they made sense to us to add. Those aluminum washers are a necessity, Here is the video when we first installed the rocker boxes kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b5lde9epzM3HdWQ.htmlsi=-XEQjzX9qzy2vr72 hopefully this helps, in the comments in that video there is a link for the rocker box breathers on where to find the ones we got,

It looks like you are looking for old number 0129 and 0261 the print says 0262 but that washer is really difficult to locate and I believe the later parts books say 0261 the new numbers are 7789 and 7050 a good place to find individual hardware parts is Deluxe HD restorations, deluxehdrestorations.com/search?x=0&y=0&q=3%2F8 just click on the menu and click on the search and type in the individual hardware part numbers I get a lot of my hardware here and colony hardware kits are great, good luck and thanks

@@Foche_T._Schitt You are correct thanks,

The air screws can be anywhere from 1.5 to 2.5 turns out on Amal Mk2 carburetors it generally relates to the pilot jet size. We have number 25 pilot jets and air screws are approximately 2 turns out. Turning the air screw in for rich and out leans it. So if your engine gets it's highest running with the air screws less than 1.5 turns you need a bigger pilot jet if the highest idle is over 2.5 turns you need a smaller pilot jet it should idle well at 1000 rpm at around 2 turns out also sometimes popping can occur on the over run while decelerating is caused by leaness so turning the air screws in by an 1/8 to 1/4 turn usually clears that up. All 78 and later T140E with parallel ported heads with Mk2 carburetors need a hotter plug or fouling occurs. RN5C champion or BR6ES NGK plugs are the correct size you don't need the R plugs but it's getting hard to find non resistor spark plugs and R plugs work just fine.

@@jessesvintagegarage765 jesse howdy i finally got a chance to try my bike 1979 T140E with 106 needle jets/// everything else stock the new jets cured my hesitation issue bike felt better immediately thanks for the tip!!

@@alanhodge984 awesome glad it worked and glad to have helped

@@jessesvintagegarage765 take care ride safe!

Yes for our bike the 106 mk2 needle jet works very well different elevations might need different needle height adjustments but all the other jets and needle are standard. I tried the so called Non EPA needle and parts but I couldn't get it to run near as good as it does now.

@@jessesvintagegarage765 many thanks for the info my bike is street tracker style built from basketcase with mostly new parts including new mkiis can i post a pic here?

www.legendmcs.com/ they promote the HD # 9084 bearings as Torrington and made in the USA 88pc set, and it seemed the way to go

Yes when motor was up to operating temperature the oil pressure before the change ran between 32 and 35lbs now after the change it starts cold at 60lbs and after it get fully up to operating temperature it's running at 50lbs these pressures I'm referring to are at cruising speed at around 60 of course at lower speeds it's lower pressures.