It appears to me that those tillers grow to stabilize the plant in the case of high wind, etc. I planted Aunt Mary's heritage sweet corn and have noticed that most-all stalks all have two ground tillers, one on the south side, the other on the north, never on east or west.
@laugau909711 күн бұрын
You forgot the pink currant called Champagne. So sweet and tasty...❤❤❤❤
@jonnyskitchengarden7 күн бұрын
I grew an old pink currant some years ago, but have not tried Champagne. Thanks for the tip!
@wendyburston313211 күн бұрын
Hi I'm in Ontario Canada. You have an orange colored disease spot on your leaf. My pear tree has been getting that and I've pulled them off. How do you deal with it and what is it called please? Thank you in advance for your answer. Very informative video👍
@adamnott947713 күн бұрын
Possibly the best I've seen on pruning in years. Starting to make sense of a lot more thanks to this.
@jonnyskitchengarden7 күн бұрын
That's great. thanks :) There is also a winter pruning video if you are interested.
@susanblunt491921 күн бұрын
I have just acquired an allotment in Cumbria with two neglected espaliered apple trees - this video was brilliant and hopefully I'll recognise what to do when next I go to the allotment. Things rarely look the same in the flesh as they do on screen!!
@jonnyskitchengarden19 күн бұрын
That is very true! If they have been neglected for some time, you may find you need to do some corrective/structural work in the winter pruning - there is a video on that here too :)
@nitelite7822 күн бұрын
I asked about this in a forum but haven't received a reply. I have quite large suckers/tillers and was going to remove but I'm now going to follow your advice. It's my first year growing corn. Coincidentally I've gone with Swift as the variety. I've got 25 plants on the go in my grid and they are doing pretty well. About knee high now in early July. I watched an interesting video the other day about tomato yields after letting at least one sucker grow so you have two or maybe even three main stems. The results suggested a huge increase in yield over a single stem. This was for cherry vining varieties. Someone pointed out in the comments that it wouldn't work well for larger beefsteak varieties due to the energy requirements of each fruit. I was surprised the yield was so much better for the cherry tomatoes though. I wish I had seen it at the start of the season as I would have given it a try. I will have to try experimenting next year. Of course more than one growing stem can get a bit unwieldy and will need more space but I thought it was pretty interesting to learn. Anyway just thought I'd share as you were talking about continuing methods based on myths. Single stemming tomatoes is not specifically a myth I suppose but still one of those habits that most people carry on doing year on year even if it may not be the method that produces the best yield.
@jonnyskitchengarden19 күн бұрын
Regarding tomatoes, even though I set out to grow single stems, I often allow more than one stem to grow - it depends how they develop, but if they put on a lot of growth and there just happens to be a suitable extra shoot, I will often just tie it in and let it fruit. It can work fine for larger sorts too if the plant has been grafted and if it's in some good deep soil - the plants grow much taller/longer in commercial production than in a normal greenhouse so they can easily managed an extra shoot or two. It all depends on the vigour of the plant. The more important point is not letting the space get overcrowded - this reduces airflow and encourages disease - so that is really the limiting factor.
@tarabarnett601427 күн бұрын
Did you do a comparison of the two sides in the end?
@jonnyskitchengarden22 күн бұрын
I did, but I didn't film it. The thinned bunches were far better - larger berries of better quality and far less prone to decay thanks to the better air flow. With this variety, it's not even close - Black Hamburg benefits hugely from thinning - which is a pity, as it is quite a chore!
@janinallentown880128 күн бұрын
Thank you for this report. I just came in from the garden and noticed numerous tillers on my sweet corn. Thinking that these would deplete nutrients I was going to cut them off, but hesitated because of the wounds it would create. You've saved me some work and probably helped improve my yield. Thank you.
@jonnyskitchengarden22 күн бұрын
That's great :)
@pcngo1Ай бұрын
1st year gardener here. Us8ng coir for 9 months from various resources with last batch of unbranded bricks from local offerup seller due to price. Indoor germination rate off last brick had VERY poor results. Upon researching and testing leads me to think high salt content caused the issue because the PPM between my tap water vs coir soaked water was over 1k! I didn't have any issues with the 3 previous bricks from the same seller. Until I test the new coir I got from Amazon (mfg in India), I am lost as to where/how I can source reliable coir because I dont have the bandwidth to flush the coir multiple times just to have viable growing material. Just wanted to share my experience and get thoughts from fellow gardeners on this.
@jonnyskitchengarden22 күн бұрын
That's interesting. I have not personally had any bad experience from using coir and have only read about the potential for high salt levels. However, I have not used it on its own, only in a mixture with other ingredients, and perhaps that might be why it hasn't been a problem for me. I have found that it can be a bit deceptive as far as watering is concerned - the top tends to dry out whilst the bottom remains moist and that can easily lead to overwatering, which doesn't help with germination or early root development. I wonder if there are supply problems now, with increasing use - before it was needed in such large quantities, one could readily find organic peat free compost of good quality at a decent price; when demand increased the price went up and the quality plummeted. I wonder if something similar may be happening with the quality of coir If it is sold for horticultural use it has to be fit for purpose.
@lynnscott8286Ай бұрын
Does something need to be done with the soil? First time ever to have rust
@jonnyskitchengardenАй бұрын
Possibly, but spores spread so easily that there may be nothing that can be done to avoid it. Garlic (and other alliums) should be rotated and avoid applying too much nitrogen rich material - a soil that is high in nitrogen / low in potassium is best avoided. Otherwise, a early planting of an early maturing variety that ordinarily produces large bulbs/cloves will help ensure that even if you get hit with rust there is still something worth harvesting.
@FeelgoodgardensАй бұрын
That rust is nasty isn't it. I've noticed it on our garlic this year 😮 Nice video Jonny 👍😃
@jonnyskitchengardenАй бұрын
It is, and once you have it, it generally returns year after year :(
@FeelgoodgardensАй бұрын
@@jonnyskitchengarden Oh no! I was hoping next year it'll be ok. 😕
@jonnyskitchengardenАй бұрын
It may help to rotate the crop to a piece of ground that has not grown garlic this year and to make sure that the soil does not have excessive amounts of nitrogen.
@warwarneverchanges4937Ай бұрын
Iwemade my decition to keep them only cause I dont want my corn to tip over, Im not growing to live or die so its better to get some nice ears to put on the grill instead of risking to injure the plant or reducing the root system, besides corn farmers dont cut them off
@jonnyskitchengardenАй бұрын
Good reasons to let them grow as they wish 👍
@warwarneverchanges4937Ай бұрын
@@jonnyskitchengarden Hi Its me again😁 I did try trimming on stalk that had some damage. I cut as close to the stalk as possible now the result is that one of the 2 the shoots came back with force growing an incredible 11cm in 3 days. Its 30c so that might have an impact. Anyways just though I wuld share, and Im not taking any more off as I fear it will completley drain the plant trying to grow them back. Sorry for my english
@jonnyskitchengarden22 күн бұрын
It will be interesting to see whether the shoots are productive; there is likely a large root system there to support their rapid growth after removing the damaged stalk.
@awinbisaАй бұрын
I have a crop that’s all gone rusty. It’s end of may now. I am not going to stress, will leave them a couple of weeks and then probably pulll. As you say it’s not a big deal. Looks worse than it is.
@jonnyskitchengardenАй бұрын
The only problem is when the rust brings the growing period to a premature end. The best solution for me was early planting of a fast maturing sort that ordinarily produces big bulbs; then if they get cut short a bit, there are still good sized bulbs to harvest :)
@lynnscott8286Ай бұрын
My harvest season is July. I planted last October. Not many grew big enough to make bulbs. So sad. My first time in 40 years of growing to have any problem
@awinbisaАй бұрын
Are you Uk based? I’m wondering if rust is becoming more of an issue nowadays.
@jonnyskitchengardenАй бұрын
I don't know if it is more widespread now or we just hear more about it, but it does seem to be a rather common affliction. I would recommend trying Provence - without rust it is one of the largest of the softneck varieties and can produce huge bulbs. The individual cloves are so big that even when rust hits and the bulb itself isn't so large, the cloves are usually still a decent size for culinary purposes. I have had best results under cover (even though garlic really wants cold conditions through winter) in either greenhouse or polytunnel - they are easy enough to slip in where they won't interfere with the usual greenhouse/polytunnel crops, they seem less affected by the rust, and have consistently given me the best bulbs.
@awinbisaАй бұрын
Thanks. I’ll have had reasonable success with Solent white in the past, tends to work well in the Uk. I also like the red duke for the strong taste. We need to find a way of countering this rust. Any remedies you are aware of aside from growing inside a tunnel ?
@myrustygarden2 ай бұрын
Honestly I’m not stalking you but I like I’m sure many other people are missing your waffling videos. As spring moves into summer I think of people I have enjoyed watching for a long time and hope they are well but just not posting ❤. Have you considered instagram as an alternative just so we know your ok, Ali
@jonnyskitchengardenАй бұрын
I've never had a stalker before 😂😂😂 I am missing the garden and making the videos - I'm still here reading comments, though :) Sadly, not too well this year so taking a break. Hopefully I can make some more videos later.
@myrustygardenАй бұрын
@@jonnyskitchengarden I’m sorry you’re not well but I’m glad you’re keeping your sense of humour. Look forward to seeing you back waffling again 🥰
@trisha2584Ай бұрын
@@jonnyskitchengarden Hope you start feeling better and fully recover soon. We miss you and only want the best for you.
@jonnyskitchengarden22 күн бұрын
Thank you! :)
@petehill34302 ай бұрын
very helpful so many of these videos don't really address the timing issue, which is the first question in my mind. you do this well! also appreciate you showing the fruit vs growth buds. assuming you are in england- would you expect summer pruning in the upper midwest of the us to be more in mid august? thanks!
@jonnyskitchengarden2 ай бұрын
Thanks! I'm not really sure as I have no experience of your climate, but I understand that it is a shorter growing season than here in southern England, so I would expect it to be sooner than here (at least, for well adapted varieties that ripen their wood in good time for the winter cold). It is one of those things that a couple of seasons worth of experience will show. If they are pruned early, no harm will be done, but there may be some secondary growth that needs to be pruned later in the year. In England we can get away with a single summer pruning; a region with a longer growing season may benefit from more, so having to address secondary growth is not a problem. The best indicator is the presence of the terminal buds on a majority of shoots; this shows that little more vegetative growth will be happening and pruning at this point should not result in lots of regrowth. This can vary by fruit (apples tend to be later than pears in my experience) and by variety - early fruiting sorts tend to pack up for winter earlier than those that mature later.
@o0sunsi0o2 ай бұрын
One you should try, Marianna's Peace, one of the very best tomatoes I've tried.
@jonnyskitchengarden2 ай бұрын
That one looks very tempting - thanks! :)
@mirjamjohansson8453 ай бұрын
This is the most helpful video I found so far on peach fan pruning! Thank you so much. I have one question: most others recommend keeping a reserve replacement side shoot half way up the fruiting branch instead of at the base right next to the main replacement shoot. Would you mind sharing your thoughts on which of these options are best and why?
@jonnyskitchengarden3 ай бұрын
That's an interesting question. I have not heard that advice before so I'm not sure why anyone would recommend keeping a replacement half way up the branch - perhaps they have something in mind that I have not previously considered 🤷♂️ In a larger space - which these peaches would like to fill - there would be more framework and shorter fruiting branches but even then I don't see why one would not keep the replacements as near to the base as possible. My reason for doing so is simple - it keeps the framework compact, and the framework serves no useful purpose except to spread out and support the fruiting wood. If you end up using a replacement shoot half way along the current fruiting wood, it just extends the unproductive framework (as that wood will never fruit again) and reduces the amount of fruiting wood for next year. Over time, the length of fruiting wood diminishes (because we have limited space and the fan won't just keep getting bigger and bigger) and then more dramatic cuts are needed to renew unproductive portions of the tree - keeping the replacement shoots close to the base minimises this.
@mirjamjohansson8452 ай бұрын
@@jonnyskitchengarden Ah, yes I'm with you! It is the reserve shoot that they're keeping half ways up. I wonder if this is so that it won't be in the way of the replacement shoot which they are keeping at the base? And maybe they just assume that in most cases one will be able to keep the replacement shoot at the base and prune off the reserve shoot at the end of summer. This is in the RHS "growing fruit" by Harry Baker. In "encyclopedia of organic gardening" it says to keep one shoot at the base and a replacement shoot 15cm up. But as you mention in one of your videos, most of these books give only brief instructions with not much reasoning behind the different choices. I've really found your videos an amazing complememnt to these text books. Thankyou!
@jonnyskitchengarden2 ай бұрын
Interesting, and thanks for the references. They should be good sources, but I must confess that I am not convinced by those suggestions. Sometimes it can be desirable to keep both replacement shoots, if space permits, and I don't see why I would want one further along the branch than it has to be. Sometimes one of replacements on the neighbouring fruiting branches fails, gets damaged, or grows poorly (or too vigorously!), and that can leave an empty space in the fan. I try to get one to each side of the fruiting branch just in case I want both and after harvest, when the final pruning is done, I can cut out the old wood and decide which of the replacements to keep.
@tangobabe273 ай бұрын
i live in vey hot weather and my peach tree does nothing ..last year nothing and this year about 3 flowers ! help
@jonnyskitchengarden3 ай бұрын
Could you give a bit more information on the climate? How old is the tree and what is the rootstock (if known)? How has it been pruned in previous years?
@MakePeace123Ай бұрын
The reason is tree is for colder climate you need Peach variety with low Chilling requirement change it by grafting with a tree that blooms in your area
@jonnyskitchengardenАй бұрын
That could indeed be a reason for poor flowering. However, without further information one cannot say with certainty. If the tree was purchased locally one would expect it to be fairly suitable for the climate, and there are various reasons for not flowering. For example, it could simply be too young (depending somewhat on the rootstock), there could be something amiss in the cultivation, or the pruning approach may be removing much of the one year old wood that will carry the flowers. I was hoping some more details would be forthcoming to narrow down the cause.
@tanyareynolds19603 ай бұрын
Hi Jonny, just realised i hadnt seen any videos from you recently. Hope all is okay. Miss your wonderful videos and your expansive knowledge. Give us a little gzrden tour soon and let us know whzt you are growing this year 🤞
@jonnyskitchengarden3 ай бұрын
Thanks very much for your comment. Unfortunately, I have been unwell so unable to do much in the garden this year. Hope to make some more videos later though.
@myrustygarden2 ай бұрын
@@jonnyskitchengarden❤
@TheSpiffyOperagal3 ай бұрын
Thank you for being so clear. I was in my garden and looking at a tree I'd espaliered last year when I got it and had no idea how to prune it. Thank you!!
@jonnyskitchengarden3 ай бұрын
So pleased it was helpful :)
@frank.s743 ай бұрын
Im quite surprised that Italian Variety's work at all in the UK since you have much less sunlight and heat. I grow "Costoluto Colli Euganei" and "Borsa Montone" this Year, both the first time. Greetings from Germany.
@jonnyskitchengarden3 ай бұрын
Depending how things go, we can certainly lack the warmth outdoors and the regular rainy days often bring blight, so we only grow under cover. The season must be a bit shorter than in the warmer regions of Italy, but when grown under glass they have plenty of heat - sometimes even more than is ideal - and during our tomato growing season we have somewhat longer days, albeit of less intense sunlight. My own experience has been that most varieties grow really well here and give great yields of flavoursome fruit. I have never been satisfied with the plum types, though, and perhaps they have different needs than these others, which seem to thrive here.
@Elisa-et1gi3 ай бұрын
I have very little space and this is a great idea! How big is the distance between the individual trees? Can I do this with quince trees too?
@jonnyskitchengarden3 ай бұрын
Cordons are definitely a great way to pack lots of varieties into a small space. I have laid mine down in the old fashioned way at around 45 degrees. The space between planting holes is around 36 inches / 900 cm which makes the gap between the parallel stems around 25 1/2 inches / 65 cm. I would suggest a minimum gap of 24 inches / 60 cm - they can be squeezed in a little closer but this spacing works well in my opinion. If you have a suitably long run, planting at an angle is beneficial, but if you are really short of space, you can planting them vertically, in which case the planting holes can be 24 inches / 60 cm apart. If you are able to lay them down towards 45 degrees you will have empty areas in the two opposite corners, so the plants at each end need to have a few extra branches trained in to fill the space (if you don't want it empty). If you do plant them vertically, you may need a more dwarfing rootstock and may need to shorten the main stem on planting to encourage bud break lower down the stem - there is a tendency for side shoots to develop only near the top of the main stem and that can leave bare patches that never get filled in. Quince tend to fruit on the tips so like tip bearing apples and pears, they are not really suitable for cordons and espaliers as the typically pruning regime would remove many of the fruit buds. It is best to stick with spur bearing sorts for this form.
@thegreenwoodelf80143 ай бұрын
Brilliant content thank you 🙏🏻
@jonnyskitchengarden3 ай бұрын
Thanks :)
@dejffjed4 ай бұрын
I can back you up on the timing issue. This year I sowed a testing batch but still the "real" batch failed. There is so much factors infulencing the time when the plants are ready to be grafted. My updated experience from this year is: sow the rootstocks and the scions (with some exceptions) at the same day. For example the germination time in my case were: San Marzano 3,5 days / Belmonte 3,5 days / Piennolo del Vesuvio 3,5 days... and many other varieties 3,5 days... however Sorrento/Rosa di Sorrento 5-6 days. And the rootstocks Fortoma F1 and Radar F1 both took 3-3,5 days... However there is still the growth speed factor so it appears almost impossible to end up with tha majority of the plants perfetly matching in stem diameter.
@jonnyskitchengarden3 ай бұрын
It is definitely a tricky business and there seems to be much variability in the seed. I end up sowing far more than I need in order to find enough to match reasonably well.
@juliosdiy32064 ай бұрын
The branches looks skinny did they hold the peaches well that season?
@jonnyskitchengarden4 ай бұрын
I prefer thinner wood to the more vigorous sort - it tends to be much more productive. I have never had any problem with broken branches - some need to be tied in, but they hold the peaches well. Eventually, they are thinned so that fruits are somewhere around six inches / 15 cm apart, for best fruit quality.
@hisroyalblueness4 ай бұрын
That was informative, thank you👍
@user-ds1vq3mi2r4 ай бұрын
Thank you for this video and what wonderful fruit it produced. I just discovered that I have this seed in my collection. Unfortunately, I never got around to planting this variety, and my seeds are dated 2015. Oh well, since I am planting today, we will see if they are viable.
@jonnyskitchengarden4 ай бұрын
I have found pepper and chilli seed quite variable - some germinate past their date while others do not. No harm in trying - they are well worth it :) I give mine a soak for a few hours - it might help.
@user-ds1vq3mi2r4 ай бұрын
@jonnyskitchengarden Thanks for the advice. I will try it.
@awest0054 ай бұрын
This video needs more likes! So informative! Thank you for the evaluation of potted vs in ground. Many forget to comment on this separately and it is such critical information for those of us that are stuck with potted. Thank you, thank you!!!
@jonnyskitchengarden4 ай бұрын
Thank you - glad you liked it 🙂
@themayyo14 ай бұрын
This video is a few years old. But had a question. If you’re pinching out all the shoots, what’s providing all the energy for fruiting if there aren’t enough leaves?
@jonnyskitchengarden4 ай бұрын
That’s an excellent question and one might think it is too extreme, but in practice the shoots that are left develop very quickly and it really isn’t long before the tree is covered with leaves. Only the old fruiting wood is left bare - the framework branches, new shoots, and terminal shoots are enough. In a larger space there would be more framework than I have here. The trees are so vigorous that it is hard to keep growth under control in a small space like this.
@williamswanson43053 ай бұрын
Thanks. I have a fairly young tree so a lot of the wood is fruiting.
@mimox27534 ай бұрын
Thank you for the well detailed information on replacing your greenhouse with polycarbonate sheets. I love it ❤
@jonnyskitchengarden4 ай бұрын
Thanks :)
@user-wv3tr7vo1y4 ай бұрын
Picking up some good tips. Thanks. Do you grow artichokes?
@jonnyskitchengarden4 ай бұрын
I have done in the past, but not recently.
@user-wv3tr7vo1y4 ай бұрын
I did the same for basil last season. Works a treat. I’m going to do the same with parsley and coriander. Saves time and space
@jonnyskitchengarden4 ай бұрын
I haven't tried parsley or coriander this way, but I imagine it will do ok 👍
@tomjones93145 ай бұрын
February temperatures are a bit different down South compared to where I am in Scotland. Could I plant in February do you think? What about watering, when and how often?
@jonnyskitchengarden5 ай бұрын
That is undoubtedly the case and I imagine one might have to shift plantings by four to six weeks depending on your local conditions. One thing that has helped me to assess the growing conditions is a few of the small bluetooth temperature/humidity sensors. They are fairly cheap and you get a handy graph of temperature through the nights so it can help to decide when the time is right for an early planting. The thing with potatoes in a greenhouse or polytunnel is that growing conditions during the day can be good even early in the year. The challenge is usually keeping them frost free, rather than worrying about them actually growing well. Obviously it's no good when day time temperatures are consistently sub zero under cover but when those really harsh conditions have passed you could give it a go. To start with they are covered with soil, which protects them well, but when the shoots emerge, thick layers of fleece may be needed. Knowing that minimum night time temperature under cover is the key. When it dips to just -2 to -3 a layer of thick fleece should offer sufficient protection - thick fleece is much better than the really lightweight stuff and multiple layers is good too and may protect against even colder temperatures so long as they do not persist.
@jonnyskitchengarden5 ай бұрын
Sorry, I missed the question about watering. Potatoes have such flabby foliage that they will quickly tell you when they are thirsty. Until the shoots emerge they don't need much - just enough to stop the soil drying out completely - then like any other potted plant. On a sunny day, temperatures can really soar under cover so you have to keep an eye on that. It is equally important not to over water - depends a lot on the compost mix, but some can look dry on top and be soggy underneath - the tubers hate to be sat in wet compost. Always a good idea to have a root around below the surface or look at the underside of a pot to try to judge the moisture level lower down.
@spage805 ай бұрын
I hope you are doing ok, looking forward to your garden this year.
@jonnyskitchengarden5 ай бұрын
Thank you! I am doing ok, but have scaled back operations in the garden. Hopefully can do a few videos this year, though.
@spage805 ай бұрын
@@jonnyskitchengarden Do you still have your peach and cherry trees. I would love video on pruning them. I have watched your old videos about this subject but I still have a hard time with them. I have all my trees trained on a wall. Apples and Pears are straight forward but peaches and cherries just confuse me. Unfortunately I didn't grow up with fruit trees and had to learn by doing.
@jonnyskitchengarden5 ай бұрын
I do still have them, though I'm not sure whether I will be making further pruning videos right now. I am happy to try to answer any questions you might have, though. To start with, it depends what sort of cherry you have. Sweet cherries can be pruned much like plums and sour cherries much like peaches - the sour cherries and peach share that habit of only fruiting on the previous season's growth, whereas plums and sweet cherries will fruit on older wood. That is the factor that determines the approach to pruning.
@ebenezercottagegarden5 ай бұрын
Hi Jonny, I just realised I haven't seen a video from you in a while. Hope all is well, look forward to seeing your garden in 2024
@jonnyskitchengarden5 ай бұрын
Hi! Thanks very much for your comment. Yes, it has been a while. I do have a couple of videos planned, but unfortunately I have had to scale back due to dodgy health - the old ticker is being uncooperative... Hopefully better times ahead :) Hope you are well and looking forward to the new season.
@AaronHalliday5 ай бұрын
So , if I don't plan on using a whole brick to plant something, is it okay to hydrate the whole brick and store it in the hydration bucket or will that possibly present a mold issue?
@jonnyskitchengarden5 ай бұрын
Yes, that’s exactly what I do. I’ve never had any problems with it. You can get smaller bricks but they’re not as economical. I’ve kept the stuff in tubs for months without any problems - you may have to add water from time to time or it can dry out completely and then need to be rehydrated before use.
@kernow245 ай бұрын
20l of water for those 5kg blocks
@jonnyskitchengarden5 ай бұрын
It’s amazing how much they absorb.
@hannajaniszewska21155 ай бұрын
Bardzo wysokie krzaki tych twoich papryk. A ja czytałam, że one mają 50, 60 cm.
@jonnyskitchengarden5 ай бұрын
Yes, it depends on the growing conditions and the pruning. Started early in the year and grown on under good conditions, and then pruned to just two or three main stems, they will reach much greater heights than if started later and allowed to develop as a bush.
@thefutureofgardening59125 ай бұрын
Dude i love your video. You went into so much detail about these fantastic varieties. I wish more videos like this existed.
@jonnyskitchengarden5 ай бұрын
Thanks so much! :)
@pilsplease75615 ай бұрын
At least here in the US, Rust is treated with Azoxystrobin or Tebucanazole which are systemic fungicides that will wipe out rust. Nearly 100% kill rate.
@jonnyskitchengarden5 ай бұрын
Yes, unfortunately that wouldn't help here as I run an organic garden, but that's just my personal preference. I have to accept a degree of loss to pests and disease 🤷♂️
@pilsplease75615 ай бұрын
When it comes to organic spray Neem oil if you can get it if you cant then do Hydrogen Peroxide at like 1 tablespoon per gallon and spray the plants it does kill some of the rust spores outside of that they are not in the soil no reason to worry about soilborne just remove infected leaves. @@jonnyskitchengarden
@pilsplease75615 ай бұрын
I got hit with rust due to intense rain and moist conditions, It spread a bit I went out today and cut off any leaves below where the rust was and then sprayed the heck out of it with a fungicide, I ordered azoxystrobin as well which is a fungicide certified to actually kill rust one of 4 that is effective. Just to have it incase it comes back I have 850 cloves in the ground and cant afford to let it get rust
@jonnyskitchengarden4 ай бұрын
I keep things organic here so I don't use anything like that.
@pilsplease75614 ай бұрын
I do as well, but azoxy is one of the few fungicides that is still considered organic and registered for use as such as it comes from mushrooms therefore it meets organic certification in the US.@@jonnyskitchengarden
@bigggrickkk6 ай бұрын
Cheers bud great vid ive got some pruning to do on these phoenix vines
@jonnyskitchengarden5 ай бұрын
Thanks :)
@bendjaaf87236 ай бұрын
You are very near the secret of peach pruning. Very good job !
@jonnyskitchengarden5 ай бұрын
Thank you! :)
@lynrichards92356 ай бұрын
Can I prune my nectarine in the same way as the peach? I was so confused about pruning before, but this video is fantastic, thank you.
@jonnyskitchengarden6 ай бұрын
Yes, you can. Peaches and nectarines are almost identical, it's just a recessive trait that gives nectarines their smooth skin. Selection has produced varieties with some minor differences - for example, nectarines tend to be a little less hardy and the fruit is typically a little smaller and more firm fleshed than peaches - but in cultivation, they are treated in exactly the same way :)
@dejffjed6 ай бұрын
Hello! Please, may I know where you buy the seeds? I've been scouring the internet and it appears to me there is no seller who has extensive offering of seeds so I will probably need to buy each variety from different store. Thank you for letting me know!
@jonnyskitchengarden6 ай бұрын
Yes, that can be a problem. I often buy from Seeds of Italy, then it's a case of hunting down the other varieties from various places. I have bought from Italian companies in the past - after brexit the most useful supply of obscure varieties I found no longer ships to the UK and others have proven unreliable - some I am certain are not the correct variety at all. It is a pity; there are still some UK suppliers with interesting sorts but it usually does involve a tedious search and buying from many different places.
@trisha25846 ай бұрын
Hope your health is OK and that you post some more videos soon. I am just setting up a fruit garden and your videos have been a great source of information and ideas.
@jonnyskitchengarden6 ай бұрын
Thank you! I have been distracted with other things lately - hopefully I can do some more videos later. I hope your fruit garden goes well - if you have any questions any time, I am happy to try to answer :)
@trisha25845 ай бұрын
@@jonnyskitchengarden I am trying to set up a fruit cage out of an old greenhouse (a bit like you did with your polytunnel. Please can you advise what netting you used and where you got it from for the top of your fruit cage.
@jonnyskitchengarden5 ай бұрын
Good idea. I'm not certain but I think it was from here: www.gardening-naturally.com/anti-bird-netting. They have all sorts of mesh and netting in lots of different sizes. One thing about an old greenhouse is that it can lack some rigidity without the glass in place - although there won't be much wind resistance - so it might help to add some extra diagonal bracing (aluminium angle or some wooden batten).
@nathanfalangas32566 ай бұрын
Do you always buy new rootstock seeds? Would it be possible to grow the tomato of the rootstock and use its seeds for future rootstocks?
@jonnyskitchengarden6 ай бұрын
Those varieties typically used (at least commercially) as rootstocks are F1 hybrids, so they will not come true from saved seed. In general, I much prefer old open pollinated varieties, but for the rootstock I am not aware of any that have similar properties, though I would be interested to hear if there are. It is possible that some selection from wild stock might serve well but that is just speculation on my part.
@jackiedixon23406 ай бұрын
Hi Jonny,I’ve just found your channel & as we have several oblique cordon heritage apple trees which we planted about 5 years ago I thought that was a very helpful video,we are always a bit apprehensive when we prune out trees but that’s given us confidence to do the job, we don’t prune enough really,happy gardening & let’s hope for plenty of fruit in the coming years.
@jonnyskitchengarden6 ай бұрын
I'm glad you found it useful :) The most important pruning for fruit development is carried out in late summer - I have a video on that too: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jNZ7e7WUs8fXg2Q.html. The summer pruning looks quite drastic - almost all of the new growth needs to be removed - but it is the secret to really productive cordons and fortunately is a very simple task. In another video I show the benefits of summer pruning and the amount of productive fruiting wood that it can produce: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nqmCe72LqdHVgmQ.html.
@helenvanginkel79106 ай бұрын
Oh I definitely need to try growing these myself! Witloof is my favorite vegetable ❤ When do I start sewing the seeds to grow the root?
@jonnyskitchengarden6 ай бұрын
Late May or early June is probably ideal. I checked an old sowing plan and had them down for the first week or two of June. I would recommend sowing direct so as not to disturb the taproot.
@yarnybart59116 ай бұрын
Great video. The other benefit of pruning out vertical growth is that you end up maintaining a much more easily harvestable crop, ideally only requiring step ladders rather than a cherry picker.
@jonnyskitchengarden6 ай бұрын
Yes, that's another good point. Makes the plants easier to protect as well, should that be necessary.