Was worth a try though.. 2.35 offers some good ride comfort and a fat footprint 👣 ehh

For you eagle eyed viewers.. Yes, my front tire is on backwards. No, it's not on purpose. Yes, I am going to fix it before my next ride. 😅

Holy crap!! They are 29x2.35

Same in Australia. Ive been arrested for not wearing a helmet. 😂 Fickn idiots. Helmet fines in Australia aren't $10, more like $100. But if you fight it in court they usually drop the charge as its a waste of the courts time. Australia the nanny country. 😂

A great all purpose tyre, good choice. I have a set in my PK 27.5. Perhaps order a the 2.1 and run a fat skinny combo. Great vid. 😎

He didn't seem very enthusiastic. If that was me, I'd be buzzing my tits off!

I kinda like that. I ride the tops a lot and have issues with numbness on occasion.

This is why I put the B17 cut out on my bikes, except for my Kona Splice, I put a B67 on it. I have two B17 cut outs and the one B67 and all of them are top flight and comfortable.

Cool vid

Hell yeah dude I remember when you had 100 subs!!! I commented on a super old video of yours from like 4 years ago asking about klunkers haha glad to see your channel is doing well!!

I live in the flatlands . That gear ratio will spin out in the flats . But perfect for climbing. I like your channel. Happy riding.

So for those who don't know. This bike has a coaster brake. And only 400 of you are going to watch, and nobody is going to comment? Seriously? Do you have any clue how hard this is?

All of the above

It happened to me. I had it pointing up and too forward.. simple adjustment and problem went away

Brake ❌ Horn ✅

THE SUPERCYCLE 1800 Went from 110...to today's price of .. 154.!!😳😳😳😡😑

but why...

got me :)

:(

Wolf Tooth is the oval chainring. Your cassette you should shop around a bit. Both the big guys are discounting - SRAM AND SHIMANO. Good luck.

Going to a smaller chain ring gives you some added climbing range, but the biggest changes can be had out back. I run a 10-52 cassette with a Wolftooth 34 oval chainring on my gravel bike. Super good for loaded down and steep hill climbs. You can keep your road shifters too! Just a slide mod with a Ratio kit.

Just made me bike brakeless, cheers mate

These saddles rock

More torque is good torque lol

I am also super into smaller rather than bigger chainrings, you can always coast if you wanna go down but you can run out of gears if you are climbing.

That’s a really cool frame design, and I love the fact that it has disc brakes both wheels

Sweet man!

Walmart were probably thinking they may have undercharged their Ozark Trail bike so let's double the price on this cheapo to recover the money

In Soviet Russia, bike stops you!

My Happiest times as kid, going as fast as I could and hitting the coaster breaks was heavenly.

Fake

Now I HAVE to get one 🤪

I agree for the money first of all they should have better pedals hydraulic brakes knock off wheels I didn't even see the shifter I'm going to watch it again

Like how many bikes does CCM make in a year? It's got to be a lot, they must have some advantages of scale. What if, and this is quite a thought experiment, what if CCM made a good, light, aluminum frame, put entry level Shimano and SRAM parts on it, and some basic Kenda wheels and tires ... don't you think they could do that pretty cheap? I wonder about the designers who work for Supercycle, CCM and Raleigh - they must be bike enthusiasts, what do they think of the bikes they help make?

Those are the good videos…

Мики

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

And plastic spacers🙁

Nice Video, Thank you for sharing

you need to lower the front end down a little bit....its sticking out and up

put the nose down!!

Stay clear of any walmart bike if you Actually ride bikes, not just a smooth pavement rider, Buy from your local Bike Shops Not Walmart!!

I don't get the point to that over a $248 Ozark Trail G1?

That was a review?

a little birdy told me, there will be a new upgraded version coming out in the second quarter of this year. I hit my mech on rocks and trees a lot, it's all scratched, and has a lot of play in the parallelogram. It's now a little harder to adjust correctly (bought as soon as it came out so around 4 years old), and a slightest bend in the hanger makes it impossible. It's probably not helping it, that I now have a KMC chain, rather than original box. I reckon the cassette will last me at least another 4 years, it's absolutely solid. Shifter, despite the flimsiness, still working ok - I.E. a little hard to shift to larger cogs (I think this has more to do with large jumps between gears), but not any worse, then right out of the box, and has no play.

I recommend using Loctite 243 to keep bolts secure for longer. It makes a massive difference during rapid temp changes. Renthal Apex Stem holds on with Loctite 243 holds on for months, before it even gets slightly loose by maybe 1 deg. And that's trough winter too with various temps from plus to subzero down to -10C, taking bike out from room temp to -10C, no problem. But Race Face Atlas stem, is hopeless, it comes loose in 10 mins, cured Loctite does not help. At least 243 don't. Those stems were so annoying I got rid of them as soon as I could, I had two same issue. I had to check before, during ride, after each ride. with Renthal Apex I don't have to. I know it's secure. but of course a hard impact will loosen the Loctite and rotate the stem out of place. But dropper posts and seat posts with two bolt clamp seem to be hopeless, they will come loose. My bike is a Geometron G1, no bolts come loose, only one came loose, once when bike was new, but that just needed fresh Loctite, probably something wrong with the Loctite or too little, or missing I don't remember, but never had this afterwards and I shredded hard on it. Nothing ever comes loose on the bike. Only caliper bolts once the Loctite wears out, or after many months of stem but by then it's fork service time. Valve cores from time to time, but that's easy to fix.valve nut too.

0:56 How to clean the valve: If it's a badly designed lave you can't clean it without solvents. This was the case with Cush Core valves, they were impossible to clean, maybe if I got a solvent, there was no hole at the bottom, only sides. If it's something like Stzy tubeless valves then you just remove the valve core, use a pick to poke at one end then the other end. No solvents needed, as there is a hole at the bottom, big enough for a pick. and it can be tightened with a hex too. Others have done this at later point too, but Stzy was the first to have the whole package, all features. How to fix clogged valve core: deflate, remove valve core, pull the topp out,use nail or pick to get the worst off, then use a pic to get the stuff out inside,, then do the same on the other side, but stuff stuck inside might be hard to remove, but solvents to remove sealants exist.

So better make sure you have a good pair of shoes on.

I found as I got older and girthier, chain tensioners became mandatory. My frame has built in tensioners, and I have to rhn half link chains cause if I put power into pedaling, I snap regular chains.

If I had to guess, I'd say your a Canadian